21.11 Art and Religion
0530 I’ve had another really good sleep. The rain has eased. It’s very cold outside though.
0630 Breakfast. The scrambled eggs are particularly creamy and delicious this morning.
My first destination doesn’t open until 1000 so I relax in the hotel, watching morning TV on the BBC and sorting through photos.
0930 I head towards Tate Modern along Blackfriars Road. When I glance down streets to my right I see glimpses of the Shard. On my left I see glimpses of the London Eye. I love that.
I’m feeling quite relaxed again. I think it’s because I’ve needed to slow down.
1000 I get to Tate Modern at opening time. I spend a few hours wandering around. There are a few highlights:
Christian Marclay: The Clock. “A mesmerising 24-hour film masterpiece of contemporary art. Thousands of film and television images of clocks edited together to show the actual time in a thrilling journey through cinematic history.” The description doesn’t really explain the film. It’s not just images of clocks but the scenes in which the clocks feature are masterfully sewn together to create a montage that feels surprisingly coherent. It certainly is mesmerising. I only stay for an hour, but could easily stay much longer.
Magic Realism: Art in Weimar Germany 1919-33. Here I see a still life oil painting called Flower Still Life with Playing Card (Blumenstilleben mit Spielkarte) by Josef Mangold. There is something about the preciseness of it that I really like.
A View From Zagreb: Op and Kinetic Art. This is a room of artworks based on optical effects, geometry and movement.
1130 I stop for a pastry and coffee.
I notice a man with “Heute Nicht” in big letters printed on his coat. “Not Today”, I get a little buzz that I can translate it.
1240 I leave after spending some time in the Tate shop. There’s lots of blue sky now. As a contrast, second on my list for the day is entry into St Paul’s Cathedral. Despite all my visits to London, I have never been in there. Today visitor hours begin at 1300. On my way there I pass through the small garden where I distinctly remember sitting with Emily on our visit in 2010. It brings back lovely memories.
1300 After waiting 10 min I make my way in. Crikey! It’s more spectacular inside than I had expected. Unfortunately, I’m not allowed to take photos. The amount of gold adornment is impressive, if almost obscene. I wander slowly around and walk up to the whispering gallery. I briefly step outside with a great view of the city skyline. There’s also a digital artwork: Martyrs (Earth, Air, Fire, Water) by Bill Viola that I find quite disturbing.
1400 I make my way to Covent Garden. I wander the Apple Market which consists of handmade artisan items. There are some really nice things and I have to seriously question whether or not to make a purchase. I choose not to.
1445 I had a sandwich at St Paul’s but I’m still feeling peckish. I pass the “Pie Shop” and pop in for a steak and stout pie with mash.
I’m on the lookout for some desert and I notice a stall selling mulled wine and sweet treats. I settle on mulled wine with a mince pie. Very festive.
1530 I walk back to the hotel.
