0545 It was another really great sleep. I’m glad I’ve gotten over the waking up. Outside there’s light cloud and it’s crisp.

0653 Breakfast.

It’s my last day in England. As usual, it feels weird with so many emotions.

On one hand: I feel satisfied. I’ve had a brilliant holiday. But I miss Em. I miss my yoga classes. I’m a little over living in hotels. The holiday has been a real thought incubator and I’m keen to work through some future plan ideas. And I have another overseas holiday coming up in just 33 days. I’m ready to go home.

On the other hand: I love this place. I wish I didn’t have to leave. I don’t really want to leave. And I don’t want to go home to summer.

0830 I head out with my camera. The cloud cover is thicker and it’s misty. There’s a new building in London I had hoped to photograph but it’s so misty that my idea is not going to work. Instead I slowly make my way to St James’ Park. It’s cold. Although I’ve been out in lower temperatures, for some reason it’s getting to me today. I rug up with hat and scarf. I’d wear my gloves if I’d brought them with me!

St James’ Park is beautiful. Yet another painting in autumn colours. And very quickly I notice the squirrels. They’re everywhere and they’re super active. I spend some time on the hunt for good photos. A couple stare me down and I have to back off.

1030 I continue on to Hyde Park. Also beautiful, but more open. I move on to Kensington Gardens before looping back again.

1230 I stop for fish and chips at the Serpentine Bar & Kitchen in Hyde Park. Just right.

I’m still feeling quite emotional when I think about my pending departure. I try to soak up every last sense of being there.

1300 What now? I’ve done enough and would be happy to relax back in the warm hotel. But part of me sees that as a waste. But the reality is I feel I’m done for now.

1310 I slowly head back. It feels even colder now. I savour it.

1330 I catch the Jubilee line from Green Park to Waterloo.

1340 I arrive at Waterloo for the last time.

Today I carried my tripod with me but I didn’t need to use it. I haven’t taken it with me many times because I couldn’t find a convenient way of carrying it. If I just clip it to my bag it swings around. If I just carry it over my shoulder it keeps feeling like it will drop off. Finally today I realise that if I clip it to my bag AND carry it over my shoulder it‘s just right. A bit late maybe. I‘ll keep it in mind for my next trip.

1400 I‘m back in the hotel. I need to re-pack now to check that everything is going to fit. If not, I‘ll still have time to head out and get another bag.

1450 I‘ve re-packed and everything seems to fit OK. I spend some time looking at my photos from the day.

1550 I‘m relaxing in front of the TV. I head off very early in the morning, so it will be an early night to bed tonight.

England 2018Ian Barber23 November 2018UK, Squirrels, London, Autumn, Kensington Gardens, St James‘ Park, Hyde Park Comments

21.11 Art and Religion

0530 I’ve had another really good sleep. The rain has eased. It’s very cold outside though.

0630 Breakfast. The scrambled eggs are particularly creamy and delicious this morning.

My first destination doesn’t open until 1000 so I relax in the hotel, watching morning TV on the BBC and sorting through photos.

0930 I head towards Tate Modern along Blackfriars Road. When I glance down streets to my right I see glimpses of the Shard. On my left I see glimpses of the London Eye. I love that.

I’m feeling quite relaxed again. I think it’s because I’ve needed to slow down.

1000 I get to Tate Modern at opening time. I spend a few hours wandering around. There are a few highlights:

Christian Marclay: The Clock. “A mesmerising 24-hour film masterpiece of contemporary art. Thousands of film and television images of clocks edited together to show the actual time in a thrilling journey through cinematic history.” The description doesn’t really explain the film. It’s not just images of clocks but the scenes in which the clocks feature are masterfully sewn together to create a montage that feels surprisingly coherent. It certainly is mesmerising. I only stay for an hour, but could easily stay much longer.

Magic Realism: Art in Weimar Germany 1919-33. Here I see a still life oil painting called Flower Still Life with Playing Card (Blumenstilleben mit Spielkarte) by Josef Mangold. There is something about the preciseness of it that I really like.

A View From Zagreb: Op and Kinetic Art. This is a room of artworks based on optical effects, geometry and movement.

1130 I stop for a pastry and coffee.

I notice a man with “Heute Nicht” in big letters printed on his coat. “Not Today”, I get a little buzz that I can translate it.

1240 I leave after spending some time in the Tate shop. There’s lots of blue sky now. As a contrast, second on my list for the day is entry into St Paul’s Cathedral. Despite all my visits to London, I have never been in there. Today visitor hours begin at 1300. On my way there I pass through the small garden where I distinctly remember sitting with Emily on our visit in 2010. It brings back lovely memories.

1300 After waiting 10 min I make my way in. Crikey! It’s more spectacular inside than I had expected. Unfortunately, I’m not allowed to take photos. The amount of gold adornment is impressive, if almost obscene. I wander slowly around and walk up to the whispering gallery. I briefly step outside with a great view of the city skyline. There’s also a digital artwork: Martyrs (Earth, Air, Fire, Water) by Bill Viola that I find quite disturbing.

1400 I make my way to Covent Garden. I wander the Apple Market which consists of handmade artisan items. There are some really nice things and I have to seriously question whether or not to make a purchase. I choose not to.

1445 I had a sandwich at St Paul’s but I’m still feeling peckish. I pass the “Pie Shop” and pop in for a steak and stout pie with mash.

I’m on the lookout for some desert and I notice a stall selling mulled wine and sweet treats. I settle on mulled wine with a mince pie. Very festive.

1530 I walk back to the hotel.

England 2018Ian Barber22 November 2018UK, London, St Paul’s Cathedral, Tate Modern Comments

20.11 I’m Shopping in the Rain

0520 I slept much better last night.

0630 Breakfast time.

0730 I spend some time copying my blogs back to OneNote so I can start editing the text for the book of this trip.

The trouble with being an early bird is having to wait for the rest of the world to get up. I fluff around until I think the shops will be open. Today is going to be a browsing and shopping day. No backpack, no big camera and (almost) no itinerary.

0850 I head out walking towards Covent Garden. Walking across Waterloo Bridge the wind is bitterly cold and it’s spotting rain. I had thought of bringing my umbrella but it would have been no help anyway.

0915 I get to Covent Garden but most things are still setting up. I look in a bookstore for a while then decide to head to the other end of my general plan with the intention of working back instead. I notice that all the Christmas lights are still on, even during the day. Admittedly, today is so dull, you almost need them!

1001 I catch the Piccadilly line from Covent Garden to Gloucester Road.

1012 I arrive Gloucester Road. I’m here to visit the European Bookshop. I’m on the hunt for German language books that might be helpful. I find a couple to buy.

1100 I stop for a pastry and coffee. Yum!

1115 I catch the Piccadilly line from Gloucester Road back to Knightsbridge. It’s still drizzling.

1123 I pop into Harrods for a while. I’ve been there before but thought it might be nice to browse. There’s lots to see but the store is way too confusing to navigate around for my liking.

1209 From the Knightsbridge station I catch the Piccadilly line to Green Park.

1216 From Green Park I catch the Victoria line to Oxford Circus. I’m heading to Oxford street.

1219 I arrive Oxford Circus and make my way up to Oxford Street.

I wander in a few of the bigger stores. Selfridges has the most spectacular interior Christmas lighting with massive moving mirror balls. Even John Lewis has an impressive display of lights in the escalator area that’s reminiscent of falling snow. I buy a couple of things.

1420 It’s raining more heavily now. I find a nearby Pret-a-Manger (very easy to do in London) and settle for a “Christmas lunch” sandwich with turkey, stuffing and other goodies. I grab a Bakewell slice too; it’s SO good - better than the slice I had in Bakewell!

I head back to find a store that stocks something I want to get for mum. The rain is persistent now but my coat gives me enough protection.

I head back to Piccadilly Circus station. Should I return to Covent Garden or head back to the hotel? The tube will take me direct to Waterloo station and I’m a little over the rain, so that’s my choice.

1530 I catch the Bakerloo line from Piccadilly Circus.

1540 I arrive Waterlook station and make my way back to the hotel. Luckily there’s a break in the rain.

1550 Back in the warm, dry hotel.

1600 Time to head down to the lounge for a cocktail (vodka martini) while I work on my blog.

1830 Another nice and quiet evening. I had thoughts of heading out to do some night time photography using the water on the ground for reflections, but it’s nice and warm inside and I can’t muster the enthusiasm.

England 2018Ian Barber21 November 2018City Lights, UK, London Comments

19.11 Hampstead Heath and The Regent’s Park

0100 I’ve been waking on the hour. This time I glance outside and notice the moon hovering over the skyline. “That would make a great pic”, I think. But I shouldn’t bother now. I need to sleep. Oh, why not. I get my tripod out and have a go. It doesn’t capture the feel but at least I tried. I read a bit, then try to get back to sleep.

0500 I awake as usual. Despite a poor night I will do my usual routine. I’d like to get to breakfast early so I can check it out when it’s quiet. Tomorrow I might try to sleep in if I haven’t slept so well again. I look out the window; London is already getting busy again.

0630 I go down to breakfast. It’s the most diverse and extensive buffet I’ve seen.

H10 is a Spanish hotel chain and seems to cater for Spanish speaking travellers. I noticed lots of Spanish speakers out last night, so I assume it’s a big market.

In the last few days I’ve felt a little travel fatigued (#firstworldproblems) but being in London and also reflecting on this holiday has reinvigorated me.

0700 It’s cloudy as the sun rises. I work on my blog from yesterday.

0800 Time to do some planning and look up timetables.

I’ve just realised that if I look out to the far right of my window I can see the London Eye.

0910 I head out. The weather today is forecast to be partly clear with rain periods. I decide to do outside things while I can. I think the rain will get heavier as the week progresses. My plan is to head to Hampstead Heath first. I’ve been there before but would like to see it in Autumn. I’ll then make my way back through the key London parks.

0924 I catch the 168 bus to Hampstead Heath from Waterloo Road. I don’t think I’ve caught a London bus before, so I choose this over the tube.

1015 The bus gets to Hampstead Heath. I make my way to the park. No sooner do I get there that the wind whips up and showers start. I need to put my good camera away and use my iPhone at first. I walk around, visiting Parliament Hill, looking for photo opportunities and enjoying the surroundings. There are showers, sunny periods and icy wind blasts. Many people are walking in the park, most with dogs.

1200 Time to move on. I’ve made my way to Hampstead underground station. I catch the Northern line to Euston.

1210 The train gets to Euston. I find my way to The Regent’s Park. Again, there are showers and sunny periods. I wander around most of the Park. I don’t think I’ve been here before. It’s larger than I realised, with lots of sections, walks and gardens.

1400 I’ve walked a lot and I’m getting tired. Time for a rest. I stop at a café in the park. I have a piece of beetroot chocolate cake and a coffee. The cake is delicious!

1430 I had planned to visit a couple of other parks but I’m worn out. I make my way to Baker Street underground station and catch the Bakerloo line back to Waterloo.

1445 I get back to Waterloo station and walk back to the hotel.

1500 Back in the hotel, I change and sit in the bar/lounge downstairs as I go through my photos.

1530 A heavy but brief downpour.

1700 A quiet night as usual.

England 2018Ian Barber20 November 2018UK, Autumn, The Regent’s Park, Hampstead Heath, Walking, London Comments

18.11 Portsmouth to London (or dizzying heights to bright lights)

0530 I was in bed ultra early, exhausted from the walk. I’m feeling OK now, but ready for breakfast; I didn’t have dinner last night. Outside the sky is perfectly clear. Excellent for what I have planned this morning.

0630 There’s only one other strange person at breakfast this early on a Sunday morning.

0700 I work on yesterday’s blog.

0740 It looks so good outside. Undoubtedly, it’s cold, but after a few cloudy days the clear sky is so enticing. I decide to wander out to experience it and take some photos. It is bracing, but I love that. And it’s so tranquil to walk around the harbour at this time of the morning with no-one around. The sea is just ever so gently heaving from edge to edge.

0815 Time to start re-packing.

0840 Re-packing done. The suitcases are getting harder to pack and heavier to lift!

I notice some comments on my blog. Thank you everyone who has interacted with me. It’s somewhat of a “1st world problem”, but I do get a little lonely at times on the road and these comments and interactions are lovely and very much appreciated.

0915 Time to check-out. I wander to the harbour to wait until my booking for the Spinnaker Tower. I notice my waistline. I don’t think I’ve put on any weight yet. I haven’t gone overboard with food and I’ve definitely kept my activity levels up.

0930 It’s a beautiful clear crisp day. It’s lovely just to sit by the harbour and notice the city wake up.

1000 I have a booking to go up to the observation deck on the Spinnaker Tower. It’s a spectacular view and the weather couldn’t be more perfect for it. I can clearly see to The Isle of Wight and all around Portsmouth. There’s even a little “sky garden” one level up.

1040 I’m back on the ground. I don’t want to head to London too early because check-in isn’t until 1500 I’ve already done most of the maritime museum attractions which had originally been on my plan for today. There’s one thing left, to go across the harbour to see a submarine but I don’t really feel like it. I sit quietly by the harbour again for a while.

1100 On my way reluctantly back to the hotel, I notice a sign for harbour tours and the next one departs at 1115. Sounds like a great idea. I get a ticket and get onboard.

1115 The tour just takes us around the docks and includes a good commentary on the ships that are in harbour today.

1210 We get back to the quay and I go back to the hotel for my bags. I then make my way to the train station. There’s a London train waiting already.

1232 I’m on the South Western Railways service to London Waterloo. We depart calling at (deep breath) Fratton, Havant, Petersfield, Haslemere, Goldaming, Guildford, Woking, West Byfleet, Byfleet & New Haw, Addlestone, Chertsey, Virginia Water, Staines, Clapham Junction and London Waterloo. I have a first class ticket and it’s worth it to get a nice seat and a quiet carriage.

1340 It’s a long journey and luckily there’s a trolley service onboard. I get a sandwich for lunch.

1456 We arrive in London. Google tells me it should only be an 8 minute walk tot the hotel. I start walking down Waterloo Road and the buildings aren’t looking all that flash. I hope the hotel’s not too far out the way. But soon I get there and everything is fine. The hotel looks very new.

1515 I check-in.

1600 After freshening up I head out again. It’s still clear and my weather app tells me that won’t last this week. I decide tonight will be the best for finding Christmas lights in the city. I walk into the centre of London, heading towards Covent Garden. I stop along the way to grab something to eat so I don’t have to worry about it later.

1700 By the time I get to Covent Garden market the sun has gone down and it’s dark. The lights in the market are beautiful and there are people everywhere. I slowly follow the crowds along streets, discovering little pockets of lights and massive displays in the streets leading into Piccadilly Circus. I’m not sure if everyone else was doing the same thing, but it certainly seems as if people were there for the lights. It feels so late but I keep reminding myself how early it still is.

On my way back I drop into “Christmas in Leicester Square”. It’s a mini-Christmas market. I’m glad I get to experience one of these. As expected, it’s nothing exceptional but it still has an air of Christmas magic about it. I get myself a mulled wine to wander around and take in the atmosphere. Back home I’m not a big fan of the hot Australian Christmas, but here I feel I could get into it. It feels more authentic, maybe even familiar from my early childhood?

1800 It’s still quite early but I’ve seen enough. I catch the tube from Charing Cross to Waterloo and then walk back to the hotel.

1830 I’m done for the day. I look through my photos. I’m not so happy with the Christmas light photos; they didn’t catch the magic. But I guess that will be difficult. I did take some video that gives a hint. I watch some TV before bed.s

I took a little bit of video. Make sure you watch it at the highest resolution.

England 2018Ian Barber19 November 2018Cityscapes, UK, London, Spinnaker Tower, City Lights, Portsmouth Comments

17.11 The New Forest

0200 I have slept really well until now. I’m having trouble getting back to sleep so I read for a bit and take another valerian tablet.

0530 Coffee time. I’m checking trains and discover industrial action planned for today. But I don’t think it will affect me.

I just remembered something from my visit to Stow-in-the-Wold that I didn’t mention. One of the gift stores I visited had the most amazing warm spicy smell of orange and cinnamon. It embraced you as soon as you entered. Very festive.

0630 Breakfast and it’s quiet again. Just how I like it.

0750 I leave for the train station. Today I want to visit part of The New Forest. Em had recommended this and I am keen to check it out. It’s a big area so I can only pick one part. I have decided to walk around a village called Brockenhurst.

0823 Great Western Railway service to Bristol Temple Meads, calling at Portsmouth & Southsea, Fratton, Cosham, Farnham and Southampton Central. There are lots of seats reserved on this train.

0907 I alight at Southampton Central. It’s chilly while I’m not moving and there is light cloud.

0926 The South Western Railway service to Bournemouth calling at Brockenhurst.

0943 I alight at Brockenhurst and immediately start the first of two walks I have chosen.

The first walk takes me through woodlands and forest as well as around a large open area with horses grazing. The amazing thing about The New Forest is that there are horses and deer roaming freely. The towns have gates and cattle grids to contain them and/or keep them out but other than that they are “wild”.

The trees are all golden in colour and the ground is a massive burnt gold carpet of fallen leaves. It’s a very monochromatic experience as you can see from the photos. At parts I am walking through woods totally alone. Towards the last quarter though, there are many of other people having a Saturday morning walk.

1150 I finish my first walk. 9 km. I’m a bit weary but I want to continue to my next walk. I stop for a drink and snack in the village first. The cloud is almost gone.

1200 I start the second walk. This begins in the town and then takes me through completely different landscape. Open fields with heather and more grazing horses. We do enter some woodland with streams.

1340 I finish my second walk. 8.6 km. My feet are killing me.

1343 I arrive back at the train station just as the right train arrives … I think. I get onboard anyway and cross my fingers.

1344 We depart and it’s the right train. Phew! Now to rest my legs.

1357 We arrive back at Southampton Central.

1405 Change trains and depart Southampton Central.

1450 I arrive back at Portsmouth Harbour.

1500 I get back to the hotel and have a long hot shower. Unfortunately, there’s no bath in this hotel and I think that’s going to hamper my recovery. I spend some time looking at photos and resting.

1600 It’s beautiful and clear outside and the sun is beginning to set. I decide to head outside to walk around. I get some nice pictures of the sunset. Although it’s cold, it feels very much like the seaside.

1630 I’m exhausted. Today’s walks have worn me out and my legs are really sore. I’m going to relax in bed with my legs up and doze off in front of the TV.

England 2018Ian Barber18 November 2018New Forest, Brockenhurst, Walking, UK, Forest, Nature Comments

16.11 Isle of Wight

0515 I wake up after a good sleep. The bed in this hotel is very comfy.

0600 I download walking maps for the day as well as purchasing a ticket for the Spinnaker Tower on Sunday.

0630 I head down to breakfast. I‘m the only person there at the start. There‘s a good selection in the buffet. On the TV there‘s lots of Brexit turmoil in the news.

0720 The sun is coming up. It’s overcast and misty.

0800 I head for the train station.

0815 I decide to catch the catamaran ferry to the Isle of Wight. The Solent looks quite still. I was hoping to stand outside but the weather is poor and the “sun deck” is closed. It’s so misty that there’s not much to see anyway. The crossing is very smooth. There aren’t many people on the ferry at this time of the day.

0835 The ferry arrives at Ryde on the Isle of Wight. I walk up to the High Street. Many of the shops as still closed. I hear the distinctive sound of seagulls in a seaside town. On the way back down the street I buy a Belgian bun from a bakery.

While waiting at the Ryde train station I see a notice warning of engineering works on the line to London on Sunday; the day I travel to London. I will need to see how that might affect me.

0951 The train departs to Shanklin calling at Ryde St John’s Road, Brading, Sandown, Lake and Shanklin. It’s an old train. I think it may actually be an ex-underground train. It rattles.

1010 We arrive at Shanklin. I walk around the town. In general, the towns on the island are bigger than I expected. But the overcast weather does cast a dready light. I’m sure they are more lively in Spring and Summer.

1054 I catch the number 2 bus to Godshill. I‘ve seen photos of thatched houses in this town and would like to check them out.

1107 The bus arrives in Godshill. I wander around the town. I think I’ve seen the best parts then I look at my map. I notice another part of town and wander up Church Hill. Here I see some more thatched houses around the church; gorgeous. I take a short stroll on a footpath out of town and see some of the countryside. I walk past massive fields of cabbages (I assume).

1206 I catch the number 2 bus back to Shanklin.

1220 We arrive in Shanklin. I’m going to catch the train back to Ryde.

1238 I’m on the train back to Ryde. I’m feeling quiet sleepy at the moment.

1300 We arrive at Ryde. I had hoped to catch the hovercraft back to Portsmouth. As a child, I remember seeing a hovercraft at Dover but I don’t think I’ve ever been on one. Unfortunately, when I get to the hovercraft “station” there’s a sign indicating that the service is temporarily suspended. That’s disappointing! I make my way to the catamaran ferry instead.

While waiting for the ferry back to Portsmouth I notice two large structures in the sea. At first I assume they are large ships. When they don’t move I realise that they are sea forts. Unfortunately, they are too far away and it’s too misty for me to get a good photo.

1347 We depart Ryde.

1405 We arrive in Portsmouth. I head to the hotel to freshen up and drop off my back pack. I’ll visit more of the maritime museums while I have the time and I want to travel light.

1430 I make it to the museums. It’s lightly spotting rain. I visit the Battle of Jutland display, the M.33 (a surviving ship from Gallipoli), the HMS Victory museum and the Naval Museum. I make my way to a shop and stop for a coffee and cake. Today, as with yesterday, I notice heavily armed police walking between the museums.

1551 I head back to the hotel again. The hotel is next to a massive outlet shopping centre. I decide to look around. I buy some light sweaters for my next trip to Bavaria at Christmas.

1655 I’m back in the hotel and working on my blog. I’m not sure if I’ll do anything for dinner; I’ve eaten plenty today. I’d prefer to sit in, read some of my acquisitions and head to bed early. I’d like to do some walking tomorrow.

England 2018Ian Barber17 November 2018Isle of Wight, Godshill, Portsmouth, Shanklin, UK, Museums, Ryde Comments

15.11 Moreton-in-Marsh to Portsmouth

0500 I wake up after a fitful night. The weather forecast all week has been for fog this morning. I’ve been hoping to get some interesting photos. But it’s clear this morning. Boo hoo!

0730 Breakfast.

0830 Time for the ritual repack. Today I’m moving on but I don’t have pre-booked tickets. That means I have more flexibility and less pressure. It’s nice. I dream of a time when I may be able to slow down the pace of travel to be more like this.

0852 Finished repacking. Only 22 minutes!

0910 Time to check-out.

0930 I get to the train station. It’s quite mild. Warm from walking, I’m just in t-shirt now. I buy my ticket but don’t properly read the train signage on the platform. I go over the overpass to platform 2 where the London trains would usually depart from. The station master calls out from across the tracks to confirm which train I want. She tells me it’s going to depart from platform 1. Back over the overpass! The sign on platform 1 still shows the 0929 train to Moreton-in-Marsh, so when a train arrives I take no notice. But the train sits at the platform for quite some time and the sign changes to my train. I check with the station master and this IS my train. That was all a bit confusing.

0950 Great Western Railway departs, calling at Kingham, Charlbury, Hanborough, Oxford and Reading. I bought a first class ticket but this train doesn’t have a first class carriage. The conductor says I can get a form to request a refund if none of the trains offer first class seating.

1105 We arrive at Reading.

1115 Great Western Railway departs. The weather is very overcast now. This train does have a first class section and it’s worth it.

1150 We arrive in Guildford.

1204 Great South Western departs, calling at Hazelmere, Petersfield, Havant, Fratton, Portsmouth and Southsea and Portsmouth Harbour. This train also has a first class section, so I’m happy with my ticket choice after all.

1305 We arrive at Portsmouth Harbour.

1318 I check-in. The WiFi doesn‘t appear to be working in my room or at reception. I speak with the staff. I pop to the nearby pret-a-manger for a hot chocolate and to use their WiFi for updates. But I can‘t connect to that either. Oops, maybe it’s my phone? I restart my phone and everything is OK again.

1400 I’d like to visit the Spinnaker Tower, but when I check online I realise I will have to book for another day. I decide to explore the Mary Rose museum instead. I make my way there. The Mary Rose was King Henry VIII’s ship that sank in 1545. What’s left of it has been recovered and is preserved in a museum. Admittedly, there’s not much left but it was fascinating all the same.

1450 I finish at the Mary Rose museum after buying my big book for the trip: Britain’s Tudor Maps County by County.

My plan had been to visit the other maritime museums on Sunday but I realise it will be really busy then and it’s very quiet now. I decide to get a ticket (it will be valid for a year) and I visit HMS Victory and HMS Warrior in relative peace.

HMS Victory was Nelson’s ship at the Battle of Trafalgar. I remember it vividly from my childhood because a friend made a really great model of it. It’s really special to walk through the real thing.

HMS Warrior was an iron-clad warship from 1860. I’m not so familiar with it, but explore anyway.

It’s late in the day and birds are congregating on the top of one of the masts. They get disturbed when a guide shakes a rope and fly off in a flurry.

1645 I get back to the hotel. The last hotel was lovely but every floorboard in my room creaked. It’s nice to not make noises as I walk in this hotel. I organise laundry for tomorrow. I’ve done really well with packing this trip; just a few things need washing.

1830 I shower and head out to find some dinner. The hotel is located in a shopping/dining precinct, so there will be plenty of choices. Being a week night, it’s relatively quiet out. I settle for The Old Customs House and have a delicious chicken and leek pie with mash and greens.

2030 I watch a little TV and then sleep time. I’ve really noticed the Christmas ads on the TV here. All snow and tinsel; it just feels so much more authentic than Christmas in Australia.

England 2018Ian Barber16 November 2018Portsmouth, Museums, Ships, HMS Warrior, HMS Victory, UK, Mary Rose Comments

13.11 Cotswolds Walk 2

0520 Last night wasn‘t so good. I woke in the middle of the night quite hot for some reason. And it was a night of strange, vivid and rather disturbing dreams. I check and it‘s not a full moon either; curious.

0700 I head out to get some early light photos of the town. My app says it feels like 0 degrees. I wrap up and use my scarf for the first time this trip. It‘s only just light. The High Street is already packed with traffic; mainly through traffic, I think. In the street they’re setting up for the Tuesday market; “the largest in the Cotswolds”.

0730 The brisk air has made me ravenous. Time for breakfast. I stoke the fire with another decent breakfast. I plan to walk again today.

0845 I head out to check out the market in more detail. There’s enough for me to want to browse now, or I could start my walk instead. I’d rather be walking. The markets should still be there when I get back.

0915 I head off. The initial path turns to muddy fields very quickly. I gingerly walk to avoid slipping. I walked the first part of this walk last year. That was in Spring. It will be interesting to see the countryside now. There is a gentle incline as I head up a hill. I notice quite a lot of wildlife. Squirrels scurry across my path. I disturb pheasant in the grass causing them to run off making a strange and disturbing shriek. At the top of the hill, the wind is icy. But otherwise, it’s a perfect day for walking. Completely blue sky. The view from the top of the hill isn’t as good as I hoped. That is until I walk a little further to Bourton-on-the-Hill. The view from the top of the High Street is stunning. I spend a bit of time getting photos. In particular, I play a waiting game with the traffic to try for car-less shots. I continue my walk through fields and along pathways.

1150 I reach Longborough and stop for a rest and a snack of nuts and fruit. I came prepared today. In this village they have converted the telephone box to contain a public-use defibrillator. I’ve seen these a lot in the UK. Great initiative.

I head off again and walk back to Moreton-in-Marsh.

1300 I get back. 14.2 km in total. I jump into a hot bath then clean my boots and gear.

1330 I check out the market again. There’s a strange mix of fresh produce, clothes, hardware and cards. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot in the way of original crafts. I’m hungry so I get a pork roll followed by a piece of gingerbread fudge. Yum!

1400 I’m back in the hotel. It’s very busy with the lunch trade. I sit in my room and go through the day’s photos and comments from yesterday.

Thanks for the magnesium tip Robyn. Yes, I use it too and I prefer powder form but I’ve been finding it hard to come by in the UK. I got some tablets yesterday which I hope will help.

1500 I stick my nose outside again. They are packing up the market.

1540 I sit in the lounge to relax and finish of my blog. It’s nice to have a bit of activity around me.

1710 I decide to eat in the bar area today. Char grilled chicken burger.

Observation: It feels like people are more reserved here in the Cotswolds. Not so smiley. I found people in the Peak District far more friendly.

I think it will be an early night tonight. I’m feeling quite exhausted. Maybe some TV.

England 2018Ian Barber14 November 2018Longborough, UK, Cotswolds, Bourton-on-the-Hill, Walking Comments

12.11 Cotswolds Walk 1

0540 I have slept really well. I think it must be still only 0200 or 0300 and I’m surprised to see it’s past 0500. As soon as I arrived last night I turned down the central heating so my room has been nice and cool for sleeping. Rooms that were too warm were a real problem last holiday but this time it’s been perfect. Breakfast doesn’t begin until 0730 so I may as well doze a bit longer.

0620 I didn’t really sleep but I have rested a bit more. Time for coffee. The selection of coffees, teas, hot chocolate, water, biscuits (and sherry!) in the room is excellent. It was cold when I arrived last night and my weather app tells me it feels like 3 degrees right now.

0730 I head down for breakfast. I fill up; I have a long walk ahead of me today.

0800 I do a bit of planning and pack my bag with the things I think I’ll need.

0845 I start a walk using my app. The walk starts through grassy fields. The temperature is brisk but I’m feeling fine and before long I‘m just walking in t-shirt. I pass a field of sheep and they all stand perfectly still on queue as I walk past. After a while the walk takes me across recently ploughed fields. The mud cakes to my boots. Again, I‘m grateful I invested in decent boots for this trip. Also, I‘m thankful to Robyn who gave me great advice on my last trip to wear two layers of socks; no blisters this year!

At times it’s hard to know if I‘m going in the right direction. The footpaths are not all clearly marked. I put my trust in the app and it‘s really good for directing me. Sometimes I just head where it tells me and hope for the best. A couple of times I head the wrong way and need to find my way back. The walk takes me through a couple of small villages. It also takes me across a field of cows. Walking among sheep doesn‘t bother me but the cows stare me down and I steer clear of them as much as I can. About 3/4 into the walk the clouds are getting darker. Luckily I packed a spray jacket. Before long I need to put it on. The showers aren’t too heavy but they persist on and off until the end of the walk. My trousers are pretty damp by the end.

1420 I get back, 20.6 km later. Surprisingly, I don’t feel too bad. I took water with me but I haven‘t felt hungry; the big breakfast I had has served me well. I have make a coffee before slipping into a nice hot Radox bath. Afterwards, I clean my boots before the remaining mud dries.

1500 It‘s still early so I head out to check out the street. I had the impression that there were lots of interesting shops in the Main Street but on closer inspection, there‘s not anything I find worth buying.

1640 I sit down in the bar by the fire to work on my blog.

1900 Time for dinner. Blue cheese and walnut Soufflee, chicken supreme and Creme brûlée. All extremely delicious. The food in this hotel is excellent.

2020 It‘s been a big day. Time for bed I think.

England 2018Ian Barber13 November 2018Moreton-in-Marsh, Cotswolds, Nature, UK, Walking Comments

11.11 IWM Duxford and on to the Cotswolds

0530 I haven’t slept well due to leg cramps. I get them now and then. I didn’t drink enough yesterday, so I suspect I may be a bit dehydrated. I will try to rehydrate today. It’s going to be a busy day then travelling to my next base.

0645 As expected, it is especially quiet at breakfast. It’s raining outside.

My shoes are still damp after last night’s adventure. I use the hair dryer to dry them a bit and it appears to work.

0800 After repacking my bags I work on my blog post for yesterday.

0900 I check all the timetables for today’s travels. I’m all packed and ready in plenty of time. Today I want to visit the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. This part of the museum is all about aviation. It mainly has war planes but also some commercial ones. It has been on my to-do list for the last couple of visits to the UK. My bus is not until 1012.

0930 The weather has cleared up.

0950 I get to the bus stop early but there isn’t clear signage for the bus I want. Then a driver also points to a notice saying that busses won’t be stopping in the street between 1000 and 1200 due to the Remembrance Day march. Not looking promising. Others are looking for the same bus too. Another driver suggests walking to another stop just in case the bus picks up the route later. It sounds like it’s worth a try. I walk with someone who was going to the hospital. We chat until we reach a bus stop.

1015 After a few minutes the bus arrives. Phew!

1030 As we try to exit the motorway, the bus gets stuck in the queue of cars also wanting to go to the museum. We grind to a halt. When it’s clear we are going to be a long time the bus driver executes a tricky manoeuvre which gets us to a place he can drop us off to walk the last short distance. Legend!

1054 I’m in the gate.

1100 In one of the hangars we observe 2 minutes silence. It’s somber but then a very small boy nearby keeps asking “Why is everyone so sad now?”. For me, that innocence just makes the occasion even more poignant and moving.

I wander around the various hangars. I’ve been to some air museums before, most notably the one in Washington DC. So there’s not a lot here that really excites me. Having said that, it’s really well done and very extensive. Maybe it‘s just me today. They do have a Concorde you can walk through. Unfortunately, inside it is set out as the test plane would have been with instrumentation. It didn’t give a very good sense of what the passenger experience would have been.

1230 I need to make a call to aim for the 1327 bus back to Cambridge or wait until 1527. I haven‘t seen everything, but I think I‘ve seen enough. And leaving early will mean I don’t get to the Cotswolds quite as late.

1325 The bus arrives.

1345 We reach Cambridge. On the way to collect my bags from the hotel I get my train tickets. I decide to get First Class. It‘s another long journey and I would like to be comfortable. I grab some lunch that I can eat on the train.

1428 We depart for London Kings Cross. The first train is definitely more comfortable in First Class. The weather is clear with just patchy cloud.

1535 We arrive at Kings Cross station. I make my way to the underground after going the wrong way only once. It’s a rabbit warren of passages and escalators.

1550 I take the Hammersmith & City line to Paddington.

1600 We get to Paddington station.

1620 I‘m onboard the train that will take me to Morton-in-Marsh in the Cotswolds.

1637 We depart, stopping at Slough, Maidenhead, Reading, Didcot Parkway, Oxford, Hanborough, Charlbury, Kingham and Moreton-in-Marsh.

1830 We arrive in Moreton-in-Marsh. I‘ve been to this town a couple of times, so I know my way to the hotel. I haven‘t stayed at the Redesdale Arms before but I have eaten here. It‘s the polar opposite of the last hotel. Old charm and history, dating back to around 1650. The room has a physical key!

1930 I head down for dinner. I‘ll try out the dining room menu tonight. I have fried breaded Brie, seared Scottish salmon and sticky toffee pudding with toffee icecream. All excellent and much more than I needed. But ... I‘m on holiday!

England 2018Ian Barber12 November 2018UK, IWM Duxford, Moreton-in-Marsh, Cotswolds, Aviation, Airplanes Comments

10.11 Norwich and The Tower Remembers

0500 I was dozing off in front of the TV by 0800 last night. Then I slept really well and could probably have slept longer but I’m keen to get started early as usual. There is rain on the window but it’s clear at the moment.

0630 It’s quiet at breakfast again. I start reading one of the books I bought yesterday: 50 Ways to Improve Your German.

0730 After checking train timetables I head to the station. Today I want to visit Norwich. The weather outside is clear and crisp. I buy an off-peak ticket. It’s not that easy knowing which tickets are allowed but the ticket has a website address which I check and I think it’s OK. (It is.)

0809 We depart Cambridge, stopping at Cambridge North, Ely, Brandon, Thetford, Attleborough, Wymondham and Norwich. On the way I see canals, fields, woods and forests; a bit of everything. I need to keep reminding myself that I‘m here and on holiday. It‘s too easy to take it for granted. I remember imagining these moments when I was back home. Well, here they are!

0938 We arrive at Norwich and I walk along the river walk which takes me past some lovely scenery and the Cow Tower. I head towards Elm Hill. The street is full of Elizabethan buildings. Next I head to Norwich Cathedral. I don‘t go in; not that interested. But it‘s good to see up close and see the differences with the other cathedrals I have visited. It appears less gothic?

Next I wander to Norwich Castle. Again, not quite like other castles I have seen. The stonework is less pitted. At first I thought it must be much more recent but it dates back to Norman times. Maybe it‘s made of different stone.

There are markets. They‘re very organised and a bit commercial, but I wander and get a nice roast beef roll for lunch. There‘s a loud protest going on outside the town hall. I can‘t work out what it‘s about, but the crowd seems well behaved, if very noisy.

When it‘s time to make my way back to the station I walk through a number of quaint narrow streets.

1240 I‘m returning to Cambridge early because of something I want to do this evening. It‘s overcast now and I semi-snooze on the train.

1400 We arrive back in Cambridge.

I want to head in to London to visit The Tower Remembers, which is a torchlight installation around the Tower of London to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of WWI. Tonight is the last night, so my only opportunity. The weather report seems OK, so I give it a go.

1520 I head to the station and there is a heavy downpour. I head back to my room to get my umbrella. I‘m not sure of the exact train ticket so I go to the ticket office. I get my ticket just in time.

1544 I‘m on a direct train to London Kings Cross and it‘s packed. Maybe lot‘s of people are going to the same place? The rain clears a bit as we leave Cambridge.

1633 We arrive at Kings Cross and I make my way to the tube station. There is a long wait for the train (by tube standards).

1703 I catch the Circle line to Tower Hill.

1718 Just about the whole train alights at Tower Hill along with numerous other trains. It‘s jam packed. I have underestimated this event. As we reach ground level I can see it is bucketing down. I‘m so glad I wore my rain coat and brought my umbrella. We begin a directed shuffle to the Tower that will take just under 2 hours. At times I think about bailing, but I remember why I‘m there. It feels disrespectful (and un-British) to let a little rain put me off. The mood is orderly and people are in good spirits. I get the sense that this is a significant event.

1900 I finally get to the Tower. It‘s still raining, but the installation (sight and sound) is moving. But it‘s hard to stay and ponder for too long. The installation consists of 10,000 torches lit around the Tower and quite somber music. You can read more about it here: https://www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london/explore/the-tower-remembers/#gs.ggmhxsQ

Afterwards, I decide to avoid Tower Hill station and make a dash for Aldgate station instead.

1930 I catch a CIrcle Line train back to Kings Cross. I have very soggy feet! I‘m so glad I left my camera and back pack in the hotel. It would have been a nightmare trying to navigate with them and to protect them.

2005 After a wrong turn, I make it back to Kings Cross train station and on a train back to Cambridge. Settled in, I eat the sandwich I had bought on the way through the station.

2035 We depart London.

2140 We arrive in Cambridge. I make the short dash to the hotel, dry off and straight to bed.

England 2018Ian Barber11 November 2018Tower of London, Castles, Tower Remembers, Norwich, UK, Armistice Day 2018, Cathedrals Comments

09.11 Cambridge

0515 Apart from once being woken by a gurgling sound in the aircon unit (which was off), I slept really well. Breakfasts start at 0630 here, so I want to be there early to avoid any rush and also so that I can head out early for some city photos before too many people are around.

0630 There are only a few people at breakfast. Success! Ouch, I burnt the top of my mouth on last night’s pizza.

I’d like to get a photo of the breakfast area just for my memories reel. But I’d rather not get anyone in the shot. I aim, then one of the the staff turn around. I quickly try to cover my tracks by pointing down at my cereal. MY HALF EATEN ALL BRAN! What kind of pathetic food blogger must I look like? Never mind.

0730 I head out. There is patchy cloud. I walk into the centre of the city then east along the river Cam and back. Along the way I encounter the same throngs of cyclists I did yesterday. This is definitely a cyclist city; they rule the roads and they don’t take prisoners. I’m careful to look around before crossing any road or path.

0930 I want to walk through one of the colleges but it is closed until 1000. So I pop into a small café for a refreshment. I have a delicious piece of slice and a coffee. The experience also reminds me that contactless (pay wave) is so fast hear. The reading of the card is instantaneous.

1000 I enter St John’s College and walk through. It takes me to the Bridge of Sighs, which is an incredible name.

1030 It suddenly gets cold and I put my jumper on.

1050 I walk around a market. There are wonderful food smells.

1100 Great St Mary’s is a church with a tower you can climb. I buy a ticket and make my way up. The view is great.

1200 I’m starting to feel hungry. Earlier I saw a sign in The Greene King pub advertising, among other things, their pies. I can’t get the idea out my head. I order the steak and wine pie. I see news of the stabbings in Melbourne on a TV in the pub.

1245 It’s quite overcast. I decide to look around at some shops. But I’m feeling a bit weary. I decide to return to the hotel for a little while.

1418 After regrouping, I head out. This time without my back pack and camera. I wander around, browsing some book shops. It’s very liberating to be without the camera.

1630 I’m back at the hotel looking at my photos from the day. The weather has cleared a little in the last few hours.

1750 After my big lunch I don’t want too much for dinner. There is a Wasabi in the square downstairs. That will do.

1930 Time to work on my blog and then settle in for the night.

England 2018Ian Barber10 November 2018UK, Cambridge Comments

08.11 Buxton to Cambridge

0530 Anxious that I might miraculously oversleep, I’ve set the alarm. It goes off but I am already awake. Yes, it’s a tad early, but I don’t like to risk these things. Time to potter then get fully packed. I need to be out the door straight after breakfast. I have a morning of train travel ahead of me. And as much as I meticulously prepare, I always have a degree of worry that something will go wrong. Today is also a rush because I pre-booked to get advance ticket prices. But it’s locked me into a schedule. I will book the rest of my trips as I go. That should be more relaxed.

0630 I open the curtains. Lots of blue sky for the first time since I’ve been here. I haven’t minded the cloud though.

0700 Time for a very quick breakfast.

0735 I get to the train station in plenty of time.

0756 The train departs. It must be a commuter train because it gets very busy. I start to get anxious that it’s going to be tough getting off. But then it thins before Stockport and it’s all OK.

0850 We arrive at Stockport and I change trains. I make my way to platform 0 as shown on the sign and mentioned in announcements. Then there’s a new announcement that the train is departing from platform 2. Back we go. At platform 2 there’s already a train but I don’t think it’s mine. I let it go with trepidation, but I’m right. The next train is mine. My ticket is for carriage A which I assume will be at the front of the train. No, when the train arrives carriage A is at the back. Dash. There’s not much luggage space onboard but I get by.

0858 We depart a few minutes late. But this is the long leg of the trip and I’m all settled now.

0940 We arrive in Sheffield and lots of people get off. A sign back in Stockport alerted me that I needed to be in one of the front 2 carriages to get to Ely but carriage A was at the back. This did concern me. But then we reverse direction at Sheffield and we’re now at the front. It all makes sense now. Lucky I had a reservation, otherwise I would have sat in the other end.

0955 Chesterfield.

1030 Nottingham.

1110 Grantham.

1130 The train has a trolley service. I love this about trains in the UK. I grab a sandwich.

1140 Peterborough.

1215 We arrive in Ely. I get off to change trains for the last time.

1238 I’m on the train to Cambridge.

1300 We arrive at Cambridge. The hotel is literally next to the station. Very convenient. The hotel room is compact but very comfortable. It will be fine. The weather is still very clear so I decide to head for a walk while I can.

1400 I start walking towards Grantchester. It’s just over 2 miles from Cambridge and the walk follows the river Cam.

Grantchester is a small village. I had hoped for some quaintness but it didn’t quite deliver. Never mind, it was still a nice walk. About 7.5 km in total.

1600 I get back to the station. The walk was easy but my feet are sore. I stop into a Café Nero to try their winter spiced hot chocolate. Delicious!

1800 I head downstairs for some dinner. It’s not a restaurant, more a café but it looks good and feels relaxed. The hotel feels relaxed in general. There wasn’t a reception desk, instead there are roaming staff members who check you in. The hotel and the surrounding area feel very different to Buxton.

1930 I’m going to lie in bed and watch some TV.

England 2018Ian Barber9 November 2018UK, Grantchester, Trains, Cambridge Comment

07.11 Downtime in Buxton

0600 It’s the usual routine. I’ve been awake since just before 0500. I’ve listened to some music and now having my coffee. But this morning I’m also pleased to notice the soft patter of rain. Rain days force me to take things down a gear; to save me from myself. One thing I do need to do is collect my train tickets for tomorrow. I should have used one of the machines in Manchester but I forgot in my rush to catch the train. I haven’t seen many machines in the smaller stations and wonder if I’ll have to go into Manchester today. But I’ll check online and I should be able to pick them up from the Buxton station.

0655 There was a stream of people arriving last night. I think it might be something business related. This morning I hear lots of movement in the rooms around me.

0730 Time for breakfast. As expected, there are more people around today. It is very nice to slow down and take my time. Nowhere I need to be.

0815 I’ve noticed that the time stamp on photos from my camera and my iPhone are different. I check and my camera is set an hour behind. I correct it.

1000 I head down to the lounge. I’m going to sort out some photos to post to Instagram and Twitter. There are sounds of activity in the hotel but not many people to be seen.

1030 It’s started raining seriously. I don’t think it will last for long though.

1130 It’s really pouring down now.

1150 There’s a break in the rain. I head out. It’s only drizzling. Either way, I figure I need to embrace my English heritage and brave it. I go to the station and get my tickets very easily.

1230 I grab some lunch in the centre of Buxton.

1300 I wander around a bit to stretch my legs and see what else is about. Then the rain starts again and I head back to the hotel.

1320 I’m back in the dry of the hotel. I do some planning for the next few days.

1345 I’m feeling like I should be doing something. I keep having to remind myself that I don’t need to be constantly busy.

1400 I spend the afternoon watching TV. It’s fun to see what’s on the local channels.

1800 I head down for my last dinner here.

I feel that I’ve stayed just the right amount of time here. I’m ready to move on and I think I would definitely come back to explore more.

1900 I turn the TV on. The Great Model Railway Challenge is on. That’s my kind of show and I’m in my element.

2000 I need to pack my bags so I can head off early in the morning.

No photos today.

England 2018Ian Barber8 November 2018UK, Buxton Comments

06.11 Ashford-in-the-Water to Bakewell

0500 I have a better night’s sleep. Though I get the occasional shooting pain in my lower back. Maybe I’ve slept funny. I listen to music for a while. Other than the back twinge I’m not sore or stiff from yesterday.

0600 I make my morning coffee and plan as usual.

0630 I do some research on bus routes to get to some of the villages around Buxton. The Derbyshire website has a really useful public transport map and links to timetables. I can buy a Derbyshire Wayfarer which gives me unlimited travel for a day. Sounds like a good idea. I consult the timetables and meticulously plan a perfect itinerary that will get me to 4 different villages/towns.

0700 It’s time for breakfast. I go light as there’s no need for a big meal today. There are other people in the restaurant for a change.

0837 I get to bus stop Market A after getting my ticket from the train station. The timetable I downloaded this morning tells me that the number 65 bus will leave here at 0855. The sign at the bus stop appears to confirm this. I wait. It’s not too cold. The sky is overcast but I see one brief glimpse of blue. I see a number 65 bus approach but it stops earlier than me. Maybe the driver has a rest stop? At 0855 the bus drives off and straight past me. What?

Having missed that bus I hastily make a new plan. Unfortunately, I’ve missed my opportunity to visit all 4 places and must settle on only 2 now. As I make my way to the next bus stop I pass bus stop Market C where the bus had paused. The sign there also says the 65 bus. WTF? No matter, I have a new plan now.

0936 I get on the bus to Derby.

1009 I get off at Ashford-in-the-Water. I have an hour to explore. I wander around the village. It’s small and pretty. An hour is just long enough.

1107 I get on the next bus to continue to Bakewell.

1116 I arrive at Bakewell. It’s a pretty town and, among other things, known for the famous Bakewell Pudding/Tart. I stroll around. I find the first bakery that sells Bakewell Tarts (I later discover there are many) and purchase one along with a flapjack for later. Delicious!

1200 I wander into a small shop called Birdsong. They have some lovely printed items that catch my eye, partly because of the German writing. The lady in the shop tells me about them. She tells me about the German company that makes them. When I mention my trip to Munich at Christmas she insists on writing down the name of a nice restaurant they know of. She tells me to be prepared for the cold. But also, that the people of Bavaria are more hospitable than the northerners. She says I’ll love it there. It was a lovely exchange and I leave with a smile and some nice (secret) purchases.

1220 I’m ready for some lunch. I find a shop selling different pasties. I settle on steak and Stilton and walk to the river to sit and enjoy it. After my lunch I wander more, taking photos and exploring shops. I feel very relaxed. Now I’m glad my original plan didn’t work out. This was much more calming. Just the right amount of time.

1400 I get the bus back to Buxton. Because the sun is setting at around 1630 at the moment, mid afternoon here feels like late afternoon back home.

1440 I arrive back at Buxton. The weather is clearing and there are patches of blue. I wander around the town and find some more parks.

1500 I’m back in the hotel. Enough walking for one day. I sit down to work on my blog.

1800 Dinner in the restaurant. Alone again, not that I mind. Pressing of ham hock (delicious) and beetroot risotto (not so delicious).

1852 It’s starting to get gusty. The forecast is for rain tomorrow.

England 2018Ian Barber7 November 2018UK, Ashford-in-the-Water, Bakewell, Walking, Buxton Comments

05.11 Hope to Edale

0500 It’s been a restless night; waking up every couple of hours. Now it’s 0500, I make my coffee and start planning the day. I will try for a major walk today. The weather reports for the rest of the week are downgrading, so today may be my best bet for a wilderness walk. I start by downloading my walking app and maps; let’s get serious this time. Then I check trains.

0600 I get an email that my credit card is still blocked. I ring the bank again and sort it out once and for all.

0700 Time for a big breakfast. I load up. I think I’m going to need it. There’s no-one else at breakfast. I hurry because I have a train to catch.

0740 I leave for the station. It’s cold and slightly misty again this morning. I’m surprised at how instantly and comfortingly familiar it feels.

0756 The train to Manchester. I’ll be getting off at New Mills Newtown.

0826 I arrive at New Mills Newtown. I have to walk 15 min to the New Mills Central station where my next train departs. When I get there I have time to sit. I have to keep reminding myself to not constantly be in a rush. I have learnt from past trips that I must savour the journeys as much as the destinations. It’s very cold while I’m sitting and not moving. Luckily I have enough on and I get out my beanie.

0922 We depart. On the train I realise that I have brought my spare battery but I left both lightning cables in the hotel. I’m concerned that the constant use of GPS may drain my phone and want a back up. I’ll see if I can get one at Hope. The mist is getting heavier again when we get to Edale.

0944 We arrive at Hope. It’s misty here too. I pop into the supermarket for a trail snack and they have a lightning cable too!

I start my walk using the app. The plan is to walk up and along the ridge to Edale. On a clear day the views would be fantastic. Clearly, that’s not going to happen today but it doesn’t dampen my enthusiasm. I warm up quickly and need to remove my jumper before too long. The walk up the side of the hills is relatively gradual but relentless. It’s definitely a work out and I get out of breath. The first half is through fields. Half way up I rest under a big black tree. The mist is settling in all around. As the mist gets heavier I notice more and more water on my beard.

The fields make way to more barren landscape. A path has been made out of rocks to make the climb easier. But it’s not THAT much easier. As I near the top of the ridge I can see the mist of the clouds passing in front of and around me. It’s bitterly cold now. At the first marker at the top of the ridge I notice someone quietly eating their lunch through the mist. Incongruous. I walk along the ridge to the next marker. It’s easier walking now. The cloud is tightly wrapped around me. No chance of any view. At the next marker there are 3 girls sitting on a stone wall eating and chatting. There are a surprising number of people walking along the ridge; emerging out of and disappearing into the clouds. It’s an ethereal experience.

I get to the Edale edge of the ridge and it’s time to make my descent. This side is steeper. I’m glad I’m going down it, but it’s still quiet treacherous with some steep edges. I need to watch my footing carefully. I keep watching down until suddenly, when I look up, I notice the cloud is lifting and I can see fields.

1300 I make it to Edale. The app tells me I walked 7.72 km. The total ascent was 410 m and total descent was 326 m. I think that was my most “hardcore” walk ever. And that’s quite tough enough for me. I won’t be trying anything harder. I feel glad that I invested in proper walking and rain gear. At least I felt prepared and protected. It was a great experience though, even without the view. In the morning I had considered doing two walks in the one day. Bugger that! One is plenty. It’s a long wait until the next train back. I decide to take a small walk to Barber Booth and back.

1416 Back at Edale station I notice all the mud on my boots and trousers. This cross country walking is messy business. Waiting for the train I notice another walker I recognise from the train to Hope. I remembered him because he was fully kitted out and looked like a serious walker. We chat. He’d walked much further than me. Nice chap. He tells me of many plane wrecks in the Peak District. He’s planning to explore some.

1447 On the train back to New Mills Central. Then walk back to New Mills Newtown.

1523 On the train back to Buxton. There’s some nice scenery on the way I hadn’t noticed before. When I arrive at Buxton I pop into the shops to get some supplies, including some Radox and magnesium for my aching muscles.

1630 I’m back in the hotel and straight into a long hot Radox bath.

1745 I hear more fireworks tonight.

1800 I sit in the hotel lounge and sort through my photos with a refreshing beer.

1900 Time for dinner. This time blue cheese mouse followed by pork fillet. I booked dinner a little later to give me plenty of bath soaking time. But I’m feeling tired and struggling to stay awake.

1910 More fireworks!

2000 I doze off in front of the TV.

England 2018Ian Barber7 November 2018UK, Hope, Edale, Walking Comments

04.11 Misty in Buxton

0500 I have slept really well. At about 0500 my brain is getting restless. I hear some sounds in the hotel and I don’t think I’ll be getting back to sleep. But that’s OK. I make a coffee and listen to some music for a while.

0630 I can see light sneaking in between the curtains. I look out and there is a soft misty light. Should I head out? Stupid question! I check the temperature; “feels like 4 degrees”. That sounds like a challenge to me. I hastily get dressed and head out.

0700 I walk towards the pavilion and the park. I think it’s my best bet to get some photos before it’s too light and/or the mist lifts (later I will be proven wrong). I capture some nice soft images.

0800 I head down to breakfast. It’s quiet; only a few people.

0900 The mist is still around. In fact, it appears to be a bit heavier. This is an opportunity too good to ignore. I get better prepared and head out again. This time I will aim for the woods. I remember the way from yesterday. In 15 min I reach the edge of the woods and start my ascent. Soon I have been enveloped in a soft, quiet veil of white mist. This is magical. My path is punctuated by the occasional bird or squirrel. There are people too; mainly walking their dogs. But not too many to spoil the solitude of this walk. I pause from time to time to take in the moment. It’s a beautiful experience. How lucky are these people to be able to enjoy it so easily.

0930 I reach the top end of the woods. This is the open top of the hill and it’s just as magical but in a very different way. Eerie. Like moors. Again there are the occasional people with their dogs. They say to me sadly “not a great day for photos, is it?”. I correct them. It’s an AWESOME day for soft light and haunting images. I’d like to make my way back to Solomon’s Temple but up here it’s very hard to see and my phone is not giving me an accurate location. You could get lost up here. So, I keep the edge of the wood in sight as I explore.

1000 It’s time to start heading back. I make my way to the beginning of the woods and start my descent. I want to take in the experience, so I put my large camera away. I can stroll. The mist hasn’t lifted at all and the way down is just as magical.

1045 I’m back in the town and it’s starting to drizzle. I should make my way back to the hotel. On the way I pass some spent fireworks. I get a sharp memory jolt to my childhood. I think it’s from Australia; back when we had a firework nights.

1100 Time for a coffee. I desperately want to see my photos to check that they’re OK. I had to take my glasses off for much of the time because they kept getting fogged up. For I know, all the pictures could be hopelessly out of focus. But they’re not. I’m very happy with the results (see my Grin Low Wood and At the Top of Grin Low Wood posts to see them).

1220 I thought it would be heavily raining by now, but it’s still OK. I decide not to waste the time and head out again. I have an alternative walk to follow. It starts of well. Then I take a lucky wrong turn which takes me by another wood. But ultimately, it’s a dead and I have to back track. Back on track I head until I reach what appears to be another dead end. This is confusing and I don’t feel like going cross country to sort it out. Clearly, I should have loaded my walking app with local maps first. I will be more prepared next time. I walk back to try to pick up the track further on. It takes me on a nice walk through open fields.

1325 I get a brief glimpse of blue sky. I notice more birds. I had wondered whether I would hear as much birdsong this trip. Luckily they haven’t all migrated quite yet.

1400 I’ve hit another dead end. The walk description is too vague and the map is not detailed enough. I decide to abandon the walk. My feet are killing me anyway. Instead I pack away my camera and have a nice stroll back into town.

1430 I grab a sandwich for a late lunch back at the pavilion before making my way to the hotel.

1500 LONG HOT BATH. Ahh.

1530 I work on my blog and photos.

1800 I head down to dinner. I’m the only one in the restaurant. I have scallops and rump of lamb. It’s starting to rain properly for the first time today.

1815 I hear more fireworks outside.

1900 Another set of fireworks go off. This time right in front of the hotel. But there don’t appear to be that many people watching. The fireworks go on for over 1/2 hour. That’s a lot of fireworks for hardly anyone.

1945 I think it will be another early night tonight.