Posts tagged Walking
19.11 Hampstead Heath and The Regent’s Park

0100 I’ve been waking on the hour. This time I glance outside and notice the moon hovering over the skyline. “That would make a great pic”, I think. But I shouldn’t bother now. I need to sleep. Oh, why not. I get my tripod out and have a go. It doesn’t capture the feel but at least I tried. I read a bit, then try to get back to sleep.

0500 I awake as usual. Despite a poor night I will do my usual routine. I’d like to get to breakfast early so I can check it out when it’s quiet. Tomorrow I might try to sleep in if I haven’t slept so well again. I look out the window; London is already getting busy again.

0630 I go down to breakfast. It’s the most diverse and extensive buffet I’ve seen.

H10 is a Spanish hotel chain and seems to cater for Spanish speaking travellers. I noticed lots of Spanish speakers out last night, so I assume it’s a big market.

In the last few days I’ve felt a little travel fatigued (#firstworldproblems) but being in London and also reflecting on this holiday has reinvigorated me.

0700 It’s cloudy as the sun rises. I work on my blog from yesterday.

0800 Time to do some planning and look up timetables.

I’ve just realised that if I look out to the far right of my window I can see the London Eye.

0910 I head out. The weather today is forecast to be partly clear with rain periods. I decide to do outside things while I can. I think the rain will get heavier as the week progresses. My plan is to head to Hampstead Heath first. I’ve been there before but would like to see it in Autumn. I’ll then make my way back through the key London parks.

0924 I catch the 168 bus to Hampstead Heath from Waterloo Road. I don’t think I’ve caught a London bus before, so I choose this over the tube.

1015 The bus gets to Hampstead Heath. I make my way to the park. No sooner do I get there that the wind whips up and showers start. I need to put my good camera away and use my iPhone at first. I walk around, visiting Parliament Hill, looking for photo opportunities and enjoying the surroundings. There are showers, sunny periods and icy wind blasts. Many people are walking in the park, most with dogs.

1200 Time to move on. I’ve made my way to Hampstead underground station. I catch the Northern line to Euston.

1210 The train gets to Euston. I find my way to The Regent’s Park. Again, there are showers and sunny periods. I wander around most of the Park. I don’t think I’ve been here before. It’s larger than I realised, with lots of sections, walks and gardens.

1400 I’ve walked a lot and I’m getting tired. Time for a rest. I stop at a café in the park. I have a piece of beetroot chocolate cake and a coffee. The cake is delicious!

1430 I had planned to visit a couple of other parks but I’m worn out. I make my way to Baker Street underground station and catch the Bakerloo line back to Waterloo.

1445 I get back to Waterloo station and walk back to the hotel.

1500 Back in the hotel, I change and sit in the bar/lounge downstairs as I go through my photos.

1530 A heavy but brief downpour.

1700 A quiet night as usual. 

17.11 The New Forest

0200 I have slept really well until now. I’m having trouble getting back to sleep so I read for a bit and take another valerian tablet.

0530 Coffee time. I’m checking trains and discover industrial action planned for today. But I don’t think it will affect me.

I just remembered something from my visit to Stow-in-the-Wold that I didn’t mention. One of the gift stores I visited had the most amazing warm spicy smell of orange and cinnamon. It embraced you as soon as you entered. Very festive.

0630 Breakfast and it’s quiet again. Just how I like it.

0750 I leave for the train station. Today I want to visit part of The New Forest. Em had recommended this and I am keen to check it out. It’s a big area so I can only pick one part. I have decided to walk around a village called Brockenhurst.

0823 Great Western Railway service to Bristol Temple Meads, calling at Portsmouth & Southsea, Fratton, Cosham, Farnham and Southampton Central. There are lots of seats reserved on this train.

0907 I alight at Southampton Central. It’s chilly while I’m not moving and there is light cloud.

0926 The South Western Railway service to Bournemouth calling at Brockenhurst.

0943 I alight at Brockenhurst and immediately start the first of two walks I have chosen.

The first walk takes me through woodlands and forest as well as around a large open area with horses grazing. The amazing thing about The New Forest is that there are horses and deer roaming freely. The towns have gates and cattle grids to contain them and/or keep them out but other than that they are “wild”.

The trees are all golden in colour and the ground is a massive burnt gold carpet of fallen leaves. It’s a very monochromatic experience as you can see from the photos. At parts I am walking through woods totally alone. Towards the last quarter though, there are many of other people having a Saturday morning walk.

1150 I finish my first walk. 9 km. I’m a bit weary but I want to continue to my next walk. I stop for a drink and snack in the village first. The cloud is almost gone.

1200 I start the second walk. This begins in the town and then takes me through completely different landscape. Open fields with heather and more grazing horses. We do enter some woodland with streams.

1340 I finish my second walk. 8.6 km. My feet are killing me.

1343 I arrive back at the train station just as the right train arrives … I think. I get onboard anyway and cross my fingers.

1344 We depart and it’s the right train. Phew! Now to rest my legs.

1357 We arrive back at Southampton Central.

1405 Change trains and depart Southampton Central.

1450 I arrive back at Portsmouth Harbour.

1500 I get back to the hotel and have a long hot shower. Unfortunately, there’s no bath in this hotel and I think that’s going to hamper my recovery. I spend some time looking at photos and resting.

1600 It’s beautiful and clear outside and the sun is beginning to set. I decide to head outside to walk around. I get some nice pictures of the sunset. Although it’s cold, it feels very much like the seaside.

1630 I’m exhausted. Today’s walks have worn me out and my legs are really sore. I’m going to relax in bed with my legs up and doze off in front of the TV.

14.11 Cotswolds Walk 3

0600 I manage to stay semi-dozing until 0600. It was another night of weird and, at times, disturbing dreams.

0730 I head down to breakfast. I think there is a business group staying here. They’re at breakfast. Sounds like they had a big night. A few sore heads I think.

0830 I step out to buy water for today’s walk. There’s an icy wind blowing.

0925 I catch the 801 bus to Stow-on-the-Wold.

0935 We arrive at Stow-on-the-Wold. I have a brief look around before commencing my walk.

By the way, the walking app I am using is ViewRanger. I believe there are a few different alternatives. I’ve found this one to be very good and in the UK there are quite a few walks to download. It’s definitely helped keep me on track.

1023 I make it to Broadwell. The walk also takes me through Donnington, Upper Swell and Lower Swell. Generally, the landscape is fields and pathways. There is a little incline at times, but nothing too difficult. The wind is biting at times with cloud cover for most of the walk.

1230 I get to the end of the walk. 12 km. My right foot is really sore. My little toe has been rubbing. I’m hobbling a little bit.

1300 I grab a sandwich and find a bench to relax.

1315 I have just over an hour until the next bus back to Moreton-in-Marsh. The shops here look more interesting than those in Moreton-in-Marsh, so I will have a browse. No purchases other than some really nice fudge. Two flavours: Christmas Pudding and Whisky & Ginger.

1410 I’m waiting at the bus stop and the wind is bitter made worse by me still being a little damp from sweat from my walk. I look across the market square and notice a building with a second storey and window that’s decidedly wonky.

1425 Bus 801 back to Moreton-in-Marsh.

1435 I’m back at the hotel. I jump into a nice hot bath. This walk wasn’t as messy as the others and I don’t have any gear to clean.

1500 I head down to the bar/lounge to look through my photos and work on my blog.

1830 I decide to dine in the restaurant. Gin cured salmon followed by stuffed field mushrooms with gruyere gratin. The food here has been excellent. 

1930 Some TV and an early night. 

13.11 Cotswolds Walk 2

0520 Last night wasn‘t so good. I woke in the middle of the night quite hot for some reason. And it was a night of strange, vivid and rather disturbing dreams. I check and it‘s not a full moon either; curious.

0700 I head out to get some early light photos of the town. My app says it feels like 0 degrees. I wrap up and use my scarf for the first time this trip. It‘s only just light. The High Street is already packed with traffic; mainly through traffic, I think. In the street they’re setting up for the Tuesday market; “the largest in the Cotswolds”.

0730 The brisk air has made me ravenous. Time for breakfast. I stoke the fire with another decent breakfast. I plan to walk again today.

0845 I head out to check out the market in more detail. There’s enough for me to want to browse now, or I could start my walk instead. I’d rather be walking. The markets should still be there when I get back.

0915 I head off. The initial path turns to muddy fields very quickly. I gingerly walk to avoid slipping. I walked the first part of this walk last year. That was in Spring. It will be interesting to see the countryside now. There is a gentle incline as I head up a hill. I notice quite a lot of wildlife. Squirrels scurry across my path. I disturb pheasant in the grass causing them to run off making a strange and disturbing shriek. At the top of the hill, the wind is icy. But otherwise, it’s a perfect day for walking. Completely blue sky. The view from the top of the hill isn’t as good as I hoped. That is until I walk a little further to Bourton-on-the-Hill. The view from the top of the High Street is stunning. I spend a bit of time getting photos. In particular, I play a waiting game with the traffic to try for car-less shots. I continue my walk through fields and along pathways.

1150 I reach Longborough and stop for a rest and a snack of nuts and fruit. I came prepared today. In this village they have converted the telephone box to contain a public-use defibrillator. I’ve seen these a lot in the UK. Great initiative.

I head off again and walk back to Moreton-in-Marsh.

1300 I get back. 14.2 km in total. I jump into a hot bath then clean my boots and gear.

1330 I check out the market again. There’s a strange mix of fresh produce, clothes, hardware and cards. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot in the way of original crafts. I’m hungry so I get a pork roll followed by a piece of gingerbread fudge. Yum!

1400 I’m back in the hotel. It’s very busy with the lunch trade. I sit in my room and go through the day’s photos and comments from yesterday.

Thanks for the magnesium tip Robyn. Yes, I use it too and I prefer powder form but I’ve been finding it hard to come by in the UK. I got some tablets yesterday which I hope will help.

1500 I stick my nose outside again. They are packing up the market.

1540 I sit in the lounge to relax and finish of my blog. It’s nice to have a bit of activity around me.

1710 I decide to eat in the bar area today. Char grilled chicken burger.  

Observation: It feels like people are more reserved here in the Cotswolds. Not so smiley. I found people in the Peak District far more friendly. 

I think it will be an early night tonight. I’m feeling quite exhausted. Maybe some TV. 

12.11 Cotswolds Walk 1

0540 I have slept really well. I think it must be still only 0200 or 0300 and I’m surprised to see it’s past 0500. As soon as I arrived last night I turned down the central heating so my room has been nice and cool for sleeping. Rooms that were too warm were a real problem last holiday but this time it’s been perfect. Breakfast doesn’t begin until 0730 so I may as well doze a bit longer.

0620 I didn’t really sleep but I have rested a bit more. Time for coffee. The selection of coffees, teas, hot chocolate, water, biscuits (and sherry!) in the room is excellent. It was cold when I arrived last night and my weather app tells me it feels like 3 degrees right now.

0730 I head down for breakfast. I fill up; I have a long walk ahead of me today. 

0800 I do a bit of planning and pack my bag with the things I think I’ll need. 

0845 I start a walk using my app. The walk starts through grassy fields. The temperature is brisk but I’m feeling fine and before long I‘m just walking in t-shirt. I pass a field of sheep and they all stand perfectly still on queue as I walk past. After a while the walk takes me across recently ploughed fields. The mud cakes to my boots. Again, I‘m grateful I invested in decent boots for this trip. Also, I‘m thankful to Robyn who gave me great advice on my last trip to wear two layers of socks; no blisters this year!

At times it’s hard to know if I‘m going in the right direction. The footpaths are not all clearly marked. I put my trust in the app and it‘s really good for directing me. Sometimes I just head where it tells me and hope for the best. A couple of times I head the wrong way and need to find my way back. The walk takes me through a couple of small villages. It also takes me across a field of cows. Walking among sheep doesn‘t bother me but the cows stare me down and I  steer clear of them as much as I can. About 3/4 into the walk the clouds are getting darker. Luckily I packed a spray jacket. Before long I need to put it on. The showers aren’t too heavy but they persist on and off until the end of the walk. My trousers are pretty damp by the end.

1420 I get back, 20.6 km later. Surprisingly, I don’t feel too bad. I took water with me but I haven‘t felt hungry; the big breakfast I had has served me well. I have make a coffee before slipping into a nice hot Radox bath. Afterwards, I clean my boots before the remaining mud dries.

1500 It‘s still early so I head out to check out the street. I had the impression that there were lots of interesting shops in the Main Street but on closer inspection, there‘s not anything I find worth buying.

1640 I sit down in the bar by the fire to work on my blog.

1900 Time for dinner. Blue cheese and walnut Soufflee, chicken supreme and Creme brûlée. All extremely delicious. The food in this hotel is excellent.

2020 It‘s been a big day. Time for bed I think. 

06.11 Ashford-in-the-Water to Bakewell

0500 I have a better night’s sleep. Though I get the occasional shooting pain in my lower back. Maybe I’ve slept funny. I listen to music for a while. Other than the back twinge I’m not sore or stiff from yesterday.

0600 I make my morning coffee and plan as usual.

0630 I do some research on bus routes to get to some of the villages around Buxton. The Derbyshire website has a really useful public transport map and links to timetables. I can buy a Derbyshire Wayfarer which gives me unlimited travel for a day. Sounds like a good idea. I consult the timetables and meticulously plan a perfect itinerary that will get me to 4 different villages/towns.

0700 It’s time for breakfast. I go light as there’s no need for a big meal today. There are other people in the restaurant for a change.

0837 I get to bus stop Market A after getting my ticket from the train station. The timetable I downloaded this morning tells me that the number 65 bus will leave here at 0855. The sign at the bus stop appears to confirm this. I wait. It’s not too cold. The sky is overcast but I see one brief glimpse of blue. I see a number 65 bus approach but it stops earlier than me. Maybe the driver has a rest stop? At 0855 the bus drives off and straight past me. What?

Having missed that bus I hastily make a new plan. Unfortunately, I’ve missed my opportunity to visit all 4 places and must settle on only 2 now. As I make my way to the next bus stop I pass bus stop Market C where the bus had paused. The sign there also says the 65 bus. WTF? No matter, I have a new plan now.

0936 I get on the bus to Derby.

1009 I get off at Ashford-in-the-Water. I have an hour to explore. I wander around the village. It’s small and pretty. An hour is just long enough.

1107 I get on the next bus to continue to Bakewell.

1116 I arrive at Bakewell. It’s a pretty town and, among other things, known for the famous Bakewell Pudding/Tart. I stroll around. I find the first bakery that sells Bakewell Tarts (I later discover there are many) and purchase one along with a flapjack for later. Delicious!

1200 I wander into a small shop called Birdsong. They have some lovely printed items that catch my eye, partly because of the German writing. The lady in the shop tells me about them. She tells me about the German company that makes them. When I mention my trip to Munich at Christmas she insists on writing down the name of a nice restaurant they know of. She tells me to be prepared for the cold. But also, that the people of Bavaria are more hospitable than the northerners. She says I’ll love it there. It was a lovely exchange and I leave with a smile and some nice (secret) purchases.

1220 I’m ready for some lunch. I find a shop selling different pasties. I settle on steak and Stilton and walk to the river to sit and enjoy it. After my lunch I wander more, taking photos and exploring shops. I feel very relaxed. Now I’m glad my original plan didn’t work out. This was much more calming. Just the right amount of time.

1400 I get the bus back to Buxton. Because the sun is setting at around 1630 at the moment, mid afternoon here feels like late afternoon back home.

1440 I arrive back at Buxton. The weather is clearing and there are patches of blue. I wander around the town and find some more parks.

1500 I’m back in the hotel. Enough walking for one day. I sit down to work on my blog.

1800 Dinner in the restaurant. Alone again, not that I mind. Pressing of ham hock (delicious) and beetroot risotto (not so delicious). 

1852 It’s starting to get gusty. The forecast is for rain tomorrow. 

05.11 Hope to Edale

0500 It’s been a restless night; waking up every couple of hours. Now it’s 0500, I make my coffee and start planning the day. I will try for a major walk today. The weather reports for the rest of the week are downgrading, so today may be my best bet for a wilderness walk. I start by downloading my walking app and maps; let’s get serious this time. Then I check trains.

0600 I get an email that my credit card is still blocked. I ring the bank again and sort it out once and for all.

0700 Time for a big breakfast. I load up. I think I’m going to need it. There’s no-one else at breakfast. I hurry because I have a train to catch.

0740 I leave for the station. It’s cold and slightly misty again this morning. I’m surprised at how instantly and comfortingly familiar it feels.

0756 The train to Manchester. I’ll be getting off at New Mills Newtown.

0826 I arrive at New Mills Newtown. I have to walk 15 min to the New Mills Central station where my next train departs. When I get there I have time to sit. I have to keep reminding myself to not constantly be in a rush. I have learnt from past trips that I must savour the journeys as much as the destinations. It’s very cold while I’m sitting and not moving. Luckily I have enough on and I get out my beanie.

0922 We depart. On the train I realise that I have brought my spare battery but I left both lightning cables in the hotel. I’m concerned that the constant use of GPS may drain my phone and want a back up. I’ll see if I can get one at Hope. The mist is getting heavier again when we get to Edale.

0944 We arrive at Hope. It’s misty here too. I pop into the supermarket for a trail snack and they have a lightning cable too!

I start my walk using the app. The plan is to walk up and along the ridge to Edale. On a clear day the views would be fantastic. Clearly, that’s not going to happen today but it doesn’t dampen my enthusiasm. I warm up quickly and need to remove my jumper before too long. The walk up the side of the hills is relatively gradual but relentless. It’s definitely a work out and I get out of breath. The first half is through fields. Half way up I rest under a big black tree. The mist is settling in all around. As the mist gets heavier I notice more and more water on my beard.

The fields make way to more barren landscape. A path has been made out of rocks to make the climb easier. But it’s not THAT much easier. As I near the top of the ridge I can see the mist of the clouds passing in front of and around me. It’s bitterly cold now. At the first marker at the top of the ridge I notice someone quietly eating their lunch through the mist. Incongruous. I walk along the ridge to the next marker. It’s easier walking now. The cloud is tightly wrapped around me. No chance of any view. At the next marker there are 3 girls sitting on a stone wall eating and chatting. There are a surprising number of people walking along the ridge; emerging out of and disappearing into the clouds. It’s an ethereal experience.

I get to the Edale edge of the ridge and it’s time to make my descent. This side is steeper. I’m glad I’m going down it, but it’s still quiet treacherous with some steep edges. I need to watch my footing carefully. I keep watching down until suddenly, when I look up, I notice the cloud is lifting and I can see fields.

1300 I make it to Edale. The app tells me I walked 7.72 km. The total ascent was 410 m and total descent was 326 m. I think that was my most “hardcore” walk ever. And that’s quite tough enough for me. I won’t be trying anything harder. I feel glad that I invested in proper walking and rain gear. At least I felt prepared and protected. It was a great experience though, even without the view. In the morning I had considered doing two walks in the one day. Bugger that! One is plenty. It’s a long wait until the next train back. I decide to take a small walk to Barber Booth and back.

1416 Back at Edale station I notice all the mud on my boots and trousers. This cross country walking is messy business. Waiting for the train I notice another walker I recognise from the train to Hope. I remembered him because he was fully kitted out and looked like a serious walker. We chat. He’d walked much further than me. Nice chap. He tells me of many plane wrecks in the Peak District. He’s planning to explore some.

1447 On the train back to New Mills Central. Then walk back to New Mills Newtown.

1523 On the train back to Buxton. There’s some nice scenery on the way I hadn’t noticed before. When I arrive at Buxton I pop into the shops to get some supplies, including some Radox and magnesium for my aching muscles.

1630 I’m back in the hotel and straight into a long hot Radox bath.

1745 I hear more fireworks tonight.

1800 I sit in the hotel lounge and sort through my photos with a refreshing beer.

1900 Time for dinner. This time blue cheese mouse followed by pork fillet. I booked dinner a little later to give me plenty of bath soaking time. But I’m feeling tired and struggling to stay awake.

1910 More fireworks!

2000 I doze off in front of the TV.

Grin Low Wood

A soft veil of white mist embraces me as I walk through the woods.

Trees brandished with gold and orange.

Gnarled branches, now naked, reach to the whiteness above.

The sound of their fallen leaves crunching and squelching beneath my feet.

The occasional squirrel darts across my path.

One or two birds swoop or flitter away (that feels a bit like a Snow White moment).

I don’t want this experience to end.

03.11 Manchester to Buxton

0600 I was in bed by about 0800 last night. No dinner; just bed. The travelling had finally caught up and I desperately needed sleep. The bed in the hotel is so soft and comfortable. Perfect for drifting off. I have a number of deep sleeps until I wake at 0230 fairly alert but definitely groggy. After that I drift on the edge; trying not to think too much to avoid fully waking up.

The hotel is part of the same chain as the hotel I stayed at in Oxford last year. They have great 1 cup coffee filter “bags”, so I make myself a brew while I check up on social media and start to think about the day. This has become part of my holiday routine for the last few trips.

0730 While planning my day I discover news of industrial action on the line when I check train times. It shouldn’t cause too much trouble but limits my choices. I‘ll aim for the 0924 train.

0800 I head down to breakfast. I go for the full English to stoke the fires for the day.

0850 After a quick repack I‘m ready to check out. Luckily the station is only 5 min walk from the hotel. It‘s overcast and slighly breezy. It’s cold but while I‘m walking I‘m easily warm enough in jacket and t-shirt, as expected.

0924 On board the Northern line train to Buxton. Stopping at Stockport, Davenport, Woodsmoor, Hazel Grove, Middlewood (when the countryside begins), Disley, New Mills Newtown, Furness Vale, Whaley Bridge, Chapel-en-le-Frith, Dove Holes and Buxton. There are only a few people on the train. I use the bike carriage for my luggage as they don‘t appear to have luggage racks on the other carriages.

The leaves haven‘t finished falling yet, so there is some colour around. I try to get some photos from the train but the windows are dirty and light is not so good.

1024 We arrive at Buxton. It’s a short walk up the hill to the hotel. A bit more effort than I had expected, but not too bad. I check in early and my room is ready. In fact, they move me to a better room that has a view of the park (the first 3 photos are of the hotel and my view).

1100 I head to the Pavilion where there is an information centre. I want to find details of walks. I buy a couple of maps that should help me to plan my stay here. There is a market in the pavilion selling food and craft. I buy a delicious sultana and cherry treacle slice for a late morning tea.

1230 I have chosen a short walk that should give me some views of the area. I head off. Early into the walk I‘m not happy with my photos; they’re too washed out. I play with the light settings on the camera and change to overcast. Massive improvement; I never realised it would make such a difference.

I‘m following a simple map and written description of the walk. After a while, things look wrong. I retrace my steps and follow what I now think is right. It takes me on a narrow trail through the woods. I like it very much, but I don’t think it’s the right one. Eventually, I meet what must be the trail described in my guide. So many of the trees are golden. I head towards Solomon‘s Temple, not having any idea what it is. Then I see this small tower at the top of the hill. The wind is blowing a gale. I shelter behind a brick wall to try and take some photos for a panorama. Another person joins me at the spot to take a photo.

I walk up to the top of the tower and it‘s even more blustery. It reminds me of the day Em and I climbed the tower at the Cliffs of Moher. After the tower, I head back through the woods. There are lot‘s of people strolling about. It‘s so beautiful.

1500 I‘m back at the Pavilion at the end of my walk. I drop by the market to get another treat. This time forest fruit treacle slice. I‘m feeling a little tired; it was a very strenuous walk and climb. But I‘m not feeling any significant jet lag. My feet are sore though. Walking around the town in this late autumnal weather was delightful.

1530 The clouds are heavy and it‘s starting to look dubious. I decide I‘ve given it a good go today and head back to the hotel to look at my photos and write this blog entry.

1800 I decide to try out the restaurant in the hotel for dinner. I have tomato and Aubergine soup, chicken breast with cannelloni beans and honey tart. It’s all very nice; I will dine there again.

During dinner there are ever increasing bangs outside. I have no idea what’s going on until I overhear a discussion. Tonight is Bonfire Night. I remember that from years ago. And the local fireworks are being set off just in front of the hotel. After dinner I look out the window of my room to catch the show. It’s only small but the fireworks go on for a very long time.

2000 I’m feeling tired now. It was an active day and I think it’s time to get to bed. I might listen to some music first.

Keswick and Latrigg

Before heading off on today's major event I wanted to walk into Grasmere village. I needed to pick up a couple of extra t-shirts as well as look for some acclaimed gingerbread that I'd been told about. I found a shop that appeared to be selling the gingerbread but the shop assistant was upfront and admitted that it wasn't the "famous" Grasmere gingerbread. It was more a ginger shortbread. It still sounded interesting and I was impressed with her honesty so I bought some.

From there I hopped in the car and headed towards Keswick. On the way I planned to stop off to view (lake) Thirlmere if I got the opportunity. Thirlmere is actually a man made reservoir formed from two existing lakes, but is still impressive. A parking spot did present itself along with a short walk to a view point. 

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After that brief interlude I continued on to Keswick. In total it was only about 30 min drive from Grasmere and I was beginning to become familiar with the road. 

First stop in Keswick was a visit to the Derwent Pencil Museum. The Derwent Pencil Factory used to be in Keswick and I believe they used to do factory tours. The factory has moved so I figured the museum would be the next best bet. It has been closed for renovations and today was the re-opening date. It was interesting in that it explained how pencils were manufactured but it was a little bit lightweight. 

After that it was on to the physical activity for the day, and probably the last big walk of the holiday. Latrigg is a viewpoint overlooking Keswick that is meant to be spectacular. I had downloaded a map from the internet that indicated I should be able to walk there and back in about 2 hours. 

As I started the walk I looked at the fell (barren mountain feature) ahead of me and could make out people at the very top (see arrow below). 

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Surely that wasn't where I was going? Not only did it seem like a hell of a hike, I didn't see how I could get there and back in 2 hours. Surely Latrigg must be a lookout part way up the fell?  It wasn't. Latrigg was the summit and the climb was surprisingly manageable. Having said that, it was still hard work.

On the way up I passed some sheep and goats who were, I assume, totally oblivious to their beautiful surroundings. 

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The final stretch of the walk snaked up the side of the fell. 

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And the view at the summit did not disappoint. I provided nearly 360 degree views. The main being Keswick and Derwent Water.

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There were fields, fells and other lakes in other directions too.

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At Latrigg there was a viewing bench occupied by a couple of ladies for the entire duration of my stay at the top. I can only assume that they were determined to make the most of the effort it took to get up there. 

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It was interesting to see the architecture of Keswick from above. 

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Perched at the top of the fell, I reflected on where I was. It was a definite "pinch me" moment and feeling of intense gratitude.

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At the top I met a couple and we exchanged some stories of our ascent as well as adoration for the view.

I spent a good 30-45 min at the top, finishing by taking some photos I hope to be able to stitch into a panorama. Then it was time to descent. Fortunately, a much less strenuous activity. I made it down to Keswick just before 2:00pm. My parking was due to expire at 2:30pm so I topped it up to give me a little time to wander around the town. Quite by chance I made it down to the water's edge. 

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On my way back to the car, the image of these grand houses and the mountains behind caught my attention. 

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On the way back to the hotel I made my second attempt to find the famous gingerbread, having done some extra research. This time I found it. The shop is tiny and adorable (should have taken a photo) and clearly well known with a steady stream of customers. As for the gingerbread, as described it was quite different - hard to describe how - and quite delicious. 

One more night, then the final leg of my holiday down to London. The food at this hotel has been outstanding - the best of the trip so far - but I've definitely felt conspicuous as a solo traveller here. The place is teeming with couples. It makes it a little bit tougher but I haven't let it spoil my time.

The Cinder Track

For the second time in a row the day didn't pan out as I expected. The original soft plan was to go for a stroll along a nearby walking trail for a couple of hours, come back and freshen up, then head to Whitby and/or Robin Hood's Bay for a second attempt at early evening light photography. To cut a long story short, the walk was so amazing and I was enjoying it so much that I just kept going. 21.6km later I've got some wonderful memories and two very stiff and sore legs.

So back to the beginning. The Cinder Track is a bike and walking track along the old disused train line between Scarborough and Whitby. Being a former train line, the walk is relatively easy with a mild gradient. After a slow morning I headed towards the start of the track at about 11:00am. The track was pleasant from the start but it took over an hour before I reached the outskirts of Scarborough and neighbouring Scalby.

The further away from civilisation I got, the more beautiful and peaceful the track became. Towards Scarborough there was a steady stream of parents wheeling prams but after that the track was only punctuated with walkers and cyclists. A couple of hours in I realised that this was what I wanted to do for the rest of the day. All around me was incredible birdsong with the occassional bird darting on to the path in front of me. I recorded as much of the sound as I could, when the singers weren't being shy on me.

The terrain changed as the track continued, as you'll see from the photos. Every path in front of me was a picture - a work of art - inviting me onwards. 

I realised that this was the most "in the moment" I have been on this holiday. 

Initially, the path was reminiscent of so many of the other paths I've explored on this trip.

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I noticed the shine on the leaves of this tree. 

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As well as a large number of perfectly formed dandelion flowers. 

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Towards the town of Burniston, the path opened up. 

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More verdant green fields. 

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There was one section of trees decked out with accommodation for fledgling birds. 

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And more fields. 

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The path started to become more woody. 

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Then opened up again. I noticed this wall snaking its way up the hillside.

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All along the track there are the bridges that use to pass over the train line. They add a unique feel to what is now a pedestrian or cycling way. 

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I noticed these unusually shaped gates in a number of places. 

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I passed a number of fields with cows. In this field I first noticed a white cow scratching her chin on a post but then paused to meet the rest. I thought this was the most photogenic. 

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For a while the track cut through dense woods. 

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Before revealing glimpses of the sea. 

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This was a former station on the line. The station building is now a residence and you can see the platform on the right. I encountered 3 other stations, but they were in far worse shape. 

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Eventually the track opened up completely. 

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Near Ravenscar I passed ruins of a WWII monitoring station. 

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At Ravenscar I paused at the visitor information centre. While relaxing I chatted with a couple who were staying in one of the villages I had passed. We talked about many things including how beautiful the countryside is. Robyn, you'll be pleased to know there ARE some english folk who appreciate what they have! 

I was considering a couple of options for the final leg of my journey but the couple convinced me to stay on the Cinder Track. I'm so pleased that they did. Soon after leaving Ravenscar the view opened up to this incredible vista. 

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What a place for a picnic!

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In the distance I could see Robin Hood's Bay. 

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From here on it was downhill, which was lucky because my legs were really complaining by this stage. Ideally I would have ended the walk an hour before, but I had to continue in order to meet the bus route for my return journey. 

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My walk terminated at Fylinthorpe. As I reached the town I passed a caravan park with this reassuring sign. 

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The weather was stunning and the light was brilliant. My head was tempted to turn right to Robin Hood's Bay but my body told me otherwise. When I reached the bus stop it was 5:26pm and the next bus was due at 5:36pm. It was a sign. I hopped on board and hobbled off at Scarborough 45min later. 

I feel so incredibly privileged to have experienced such a wonderful path through this country.  

Hebden Bridge to Heptonstall

I had a few places in mind to visit while I used Manchester as a base. Last night I did my research, working out train and bus times. But today didn't work out anything like I expected. 

When I awoke this morning the sky was quite clear. I decided to head to Hebden Bridge. I was going to spend a couple of hours walking around there before making my way to Haworth. Then on to Keighley and maybe take the train back through Leeds.

After putting a load of washing on I headed to Manchester Picaddilly station. When I got there I couldn't find details of any trains heading to Hebden Bridge. After checking my rail app I realised that they leave from Manchester Victoria station! I couldn't work out which train to catch to get to that station so I decided to walk. Many Manchester streets are at an angle which I must admit does my head in. I kept veering off course but luckily the map on my phone helped me get there eventually. The weather was so lovely I was tempted to stop and take some city photos but the weather report was dicey and I didn't want to squander the good weather. 

I caught the 9:16am train to Hebden Bridge. It only took half an hour.  The first thing I noticed was a canal through the village.

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And then this unusual bench and, like the other day, boots being repurposed as pot planters. 

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Some girls were feeding geese and goslings in a square. I took the opportunity to get some shots. 

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In the main street of Hebden Bridge, the Yorkshire Soap Company was blowing bubbles from the top window above their shop. 

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The village itself was very cute. Lots of grey stone buildings. 

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And an open air market. 

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I stopped for some morning tea from a bakery. I've noticed a particular bird a couple of times recently and one just happened to perch nearby. 

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Then I set off for what I thought would be a short walk. The path was beautiful and the sun was shining through the occassional cloud. 

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The pathway eventually led to this lane way. 

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But it wasn't all flat walking. On a number of occasions the path lead me either up or down steps like these. 

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The path followed one of the streams that fed into the river at Hebden Bridge. I decided to have a go at trying to create a misty water effect by choosing a slow shutter speed. This required me keep the camera very still. I bought a travel monopod (like a tripod but with only one leg) before leaving Australia in the hope that it would help in these kinds of situations. This was my first opportunity to try it out. The result would have been better with a tripod, but I'm still happy with it.

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This part of the woods had a wonderful array of grasses and plants. 

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I eventually made it to Hardcastle Crags, an outcrop of rocks that you can climb. 

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From there I made my way back to Gibson Mill which I had passed about an hour earlier. The path took me back to the stream.

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There were numerous weirs along the length of the stream. 

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When I made it back to Gibson Mill I immediately went to the mill pond to get a photo. I had tried to get this shot when I passed the mill on the way to the Hardcastle Crags. Just as I had the shot ready two ducks landed in the middle of the pond creating ripples that destroyed the reflection. Little pests! So when I came back this was my top priority. Afterwards I had a late lunch in the mill cafe. By this time it was 3:00pm.

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Then it was time to make my way back. I decided to head to Hebden Bridge but would see how things went.  I noticed how tall the streets were.

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I also noticed the roots on this tree. Holding on for dear life. 

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In the distance I could see the end of the park containing the Hardcastle Crags. 

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As I walked towards Hebden Bridge the landscape opened up. 

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For a while the path ran along side the road which was built up with this wall. I reflected on how amazing it is that people built these structures in the middle of nowhere so many years ago. 

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Before getting to Hebden Bridge I decided I had enough energy left to divert to Heptonstall, a village on the hill near Hebden Bridge. It was more challenging than I had expected. The paths climbed steeply up the side of the hill. 

When I first got there and I entered the village I noticed these shoes waiting by one of the doors. 

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The village was adorable. Actually, very similar to what I was expecting to see in Haworth. So finding it was compensation for not having made it to Haworth.

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This little square was by a ruined church. The blossom from the tree looked just like snow. 

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After walking around the village I noticed a bus that was going back to Hebden Bridge. I seriously considered taking it as my feet were getting really sore. But then I decided to follow the path back to Hebden Bridge. It took me to the edge of the village and then this magnificent view. 

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The path followed along the side of the hill all the way into the valley. It was so worth the extra pain I was feeling in my feet and provided a breathtaking conclusion to my walking adventure. 

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I passed by these rocks on the side of the hill. 

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Every view was spectacular. 

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I eventually made my way down to Hebden Bridge. 

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From there I caught the 6:08pm train back to Manchester.  

Although I'd only achieved a little bit of my original plan I had a wonderful day. It was great to take a slower pace and not try to stick to an itinerary. 

This country is so incredibly beautiful. 

Burford

This morning when I woke up the sky was blue for the first time since I arrived in the UK. I had plans for another trek in the Cotswolds, so wasted no time getting to breakfast. As I was getting ready to leave I noticed that the soles of my boots had almost worn through! Too much walking. I will have to get some new ones but my other shoes would have to do today. 

I needed to catch the 9:00am 853 bus to Burford. Well, technically I wanted to get off a little outside Burford near Little Barrington. My plan for the day was to follow two walking maps I found online.  

My first challenge was to find the bus stop in Oxford. I found it online OK but when I got there it wasn't marked. After a little bit of concern I noticed the bus arriving. As I boarded and requested my stop the bus driver was also a bit confused. He doesn't drive this route often and wasn't familiar with the stop. Luckily the lady behind me was after the same stop and had additional information. So off we went.

The bus trip took just under an hour. Here's the map for the first walk.  I got off the bus at #1.

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I located the foot path and got on my way. 

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The walk took me through Little Barrington and then to Great Barrington. Both had typical cottages and buildings for the area. 

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It's been a long time since I saw milk delivered at all, let alone in bottles. 

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As with the other day, the walk took me through all sorts of terrain. 

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After my walk around the Barringtons the main part of the journey took me along a quiet country lane to Burford. The walk took about an hour and I only encountered one car. The lane way wound through hedges and occasionally opened out to beautiful views of the surrounding farmland and the River Windrush meandering along side it.

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And I encountered quite a bit of wildlife. 

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Even though I only encountered one car, there were a number of bike riders enjoying the sensational weather. Speaking of which, by this time it was definitely t-shirt and sunscreen weather for me. 

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After a delightfully leisurely walk I arrived in Burford. Another picturesque town. Unfortunately, all the car traffic made it difficult to get a good photo to do the town justice. 

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After a quick wander down the main street I grabbed some lunch and headed off on my second walk. 

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Although this is intended to be a walk from point #1 to Burford via one of two alternative routes, I decided to walk it as a loop. I started at Burford and walked towards #2 then backtracked through #5-7. 

Throughout the day I noticed a lot of airforce traffic. I assume there must be a base nearby. 

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This walk followed the River Windrush more closely.

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Near Swinbrook there was a mill. 

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Shortly after leaving the mill I encountered a young chinese girl also looking for the way to Swinbrook. You can see her up ahead in this photo. We chatted for a while and walked together until we successfully made it to Swinbrook. 

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Swinbrook was another quaint village. I continued further to Asthall. On the way there the footpath went through a field with cows. A sign said to beware as the cows can be protective of their young. As I passed a herd, one was keeping a very close eye on me and started "tapping" a hoof. I passed by as quickly and calmly as I could.

Of course, Asthall was yet another quaint village. 

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From there I had to backtrack to Swinbrook before heading north. I was following the footpath described in my directions until I came across this field. The directions indicated to walk across it but it was fenced off. The fencing appeared recent and temporary. It also appeared electrified! I found another way instead. 

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Along my alternative route I encountered more beautiful cottages. 

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Before entering Widley Copse.

The other day and today I've recorded fragments of birdsong. It was particularly beautiful in these woods. I'll try to post some of the recordings when I get a chance. 

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Out the other side of the woods I needed to walk across field after field of crops. Luckily there was a very clearly marked path to follow. In the distance I noticed an animal on the path. When I zoomed in I discovered this guy. 

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The lines of crop were so regular. 

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A bit more walking got me to Fulbrook and then back to Burford. By this time my feet and legs were aching. Not as badly as the other day, but bad enough. I came across the Cotswold Arms and decided to rest my feet while enjoying a well earned pint. 

From there I just needed to find the bus stop. I passed more of the beautiful streetscape. 

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When I got to where I thought the bus stop should be, it only mentioned the 233 bus. Confused I set out to find help. I asked a passerby who confirmed that the 853 stops there also. Phew! I double confirmed by asking the lady who was also now waiting at the stop. She was lovely and we had a chat up until the bus arrived. 

I got back to the hotel shortly after 6:00pm and straight into a nice hot bath. 

Moreton-in-Marsh to Broadway

I have lots of photos to share in this post. I walked close on 20km yesterday and my body isn't happy with me. Last night I felt I may have pushed myself too far, but luckily I'm feeling OK today.

But back to the beginning. I was up early to avoid the breakfast rush. The service here is fantastic and I filled up on a hearty breakfast to give me fuel for the day ahead. It was a grey morning but I expected that to clear. After spending a bit of time making plans and downloading timetables I made my way to the station. On the way I passed my first squirrel of the trip. But he was too nimble for me to catch with my camera. 

I bought a Cotswolds Discoverer pass which is a really cheap way to get unlimited train and bus travel within the Cotwolds. Unfortunately you can't use it until after 9:00am so my enthusiasm to get to the station was somewhat wasted. In the end I caught the 09:24 Hereford train to Moreton-in-Marsh. 

I visited Moreton-in-Marsh on my trip last year but only on my way elsewhere. This time I saw a bit more as I made my way to the start of my walking trail. 

In the Cotswolds, as with all of England, there are public footpaths which are signposted walking trails through the country. They're really easy to follow and, as you'll see from the photos, they take you through all types of terrain.  I found some great maps of the footpaths in Moreton-in-Marsh. You just need to keep following the markers.

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The start of the journey took me through some beautiful wooded fields. 

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I came across this little farmhouse early in the walk. 

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The winding paths enticed me onward. 

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In Kent I saw huge expanses of bluebells but didn't manage to photograph any. I made sure I captured the few I saw on this walk. 

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After about an hour of walking I approached Blockley.

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The buildings in the town were of the typical honey coloured stone of the region. 

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I stopped for lunch in a little cafe before continuing my walk. Between the fields there were usually gates but sometimes there were stiles like these. 

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As I headed out from Blockley towards Broad Campden I reached this field and my one and only lost moment. The field is quite steep and when I reached the top the gate looked different and had no markers. Every other gate so far had been clearly marked so I worried that I might have headed in the wrong direction. So I walked all the way around the perimeter of the field looking for another exit. When I got back to the start I came across a group of walkers coming down the field who confirmed that the gate I first encountered was the exit after all. And when I got through there were markers just past it!  

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I passed another farmhouse on my way. 

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Just under an hour after leaving Blockley I reached Broad Campden. I visited this little town last year and it has some beautiful little cottages. I didn't take many photos as I had taken so many last year.

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From Broad Campden it was only a short walk to the larger town of Chipping Campden. I wasn't the only walker. 

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Walking through the streets of Chipping Campden to the centre of the town, I came across some more beautiful houses. 

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Finally I made it to the main street. It's hard to get a picture of the street without cars but I managed this angle. 

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I took the Cotswolds Way out of Chipping Campden on my way to Broadway Tower. This bird house high on the side of a tree caught my attention. 

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As I reached the top of a hill outside of the town I came across this man leaning against the wall painting. I first saw him from the other side. I would have liked to take a portrait photo of him but didn't have the courage to ask. I settled on a more anonymous shot later on. 

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From Broad Campden I started to encounter sheep on my journey. And usually very vocal sheep. 

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There were some stunning views from Dover Hill. 

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This letter box was a flash of red in an otherwise verdant green lane way. 

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Then more beautiful vistas. 

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Sometimes the foot path went around the edges of working fields. Other times it went right through the middle. 

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Or through woodland. 

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Towards the end of my journey, when my legs were cramping and aching, I reached one of my destinations - Broadway Tower. The tower is a folly, meaning a building constructed for no particular practical purpose.

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Despite feeling that my legs might give away at any moment I couldn't resist the urge to climb to the top.

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And the view made it worth the pain. 

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From the tower it was just over another mile to my final destination - the town of Broadway. 

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And through fields of sheep. 

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Broadway is a beautiful town. Had I reached it earlier (with fresher legs) I would have loved to explore but my legs and back were really in a lot of pain. My plan was to catch a bus back to Moreton-in-Marsh but I had about 45min to wait. I headed in to the Lygon Arms for a well deserved pint and a rest for my legs. By this time it was coming up to 6:00pm. 

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As I waited for the bus I noticed this fellow "hanging around". I assume he was lost and waiting for his owner. 

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I caught the bus back to Moreton-in-Marsh. I had planned to catch an earlier bus which would have connected perfectly with a train back to Oxford. But early on I realised the walk was going to take longer and I made the conscious decision to maximise the walk rather than rush to meet a schedule. The downside was that the bus I caught did not connect with a train and I had another hour to wait. In need of some warmth and comfort I stepped into the Redesdale Arms for a lovely Steak and Ale pie for dinner.

When I finally got back to the hotel in Oxford I immediately slipped into a long hot bath to smooth my well earned aches and pains.  After a grey start the weather had improved. For much of the walk I was comfortable just in t-shirt without my jacket. I even caught a little bit of sunburn when the ferocity of the sun caught me by surprise.

Finally, here's a map showing the towns I visited. 

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Beauty overload

The places I visited yesterday were beautiful but I still felt that I had only scratched the surface of Cotswolds beauty. After all, I hadn't seen a proper thatched roof cottage yet! So today I decided to go even more off the beaten track. I picked up some good walking maps from Bourton-on-the-Water yesterday and planned a trip around a place called Chipping Campden.

First up I needed to catch the 801 bus again but this time all the way to Moreton-in-Marsh. I had to change buses at the train station. The signal box at the station was very cute. 

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Next I caught the 22 bus to Chipping Campden. The bus wound through Bourton-on-the-Hill, Blockley and Broad Campden. All of them looked gorgeous but only Broad Campden was going to be easy enough for me to get to. By the way, I think the names of these places are just as beautiful as the places themselves. 

Chipping Campden was another large town, but with lots of very historic buildings in the honey coloured stone of the Cotswolds. I wandered around a bit, but it was very much a sense of more of the same as yesterday. And it was already busy with tourists. 

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I was keen to get back to Broad Campden so I headed off down one of the walking paths. 

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Broad Campden was exactly what I felt I had missed so far. Small, charming, no tourists ... and a good smattering of thatched cottages. 

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I noticed this on the top of one of the thatches. 

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All of the walking paths around the village led to beautiful views. 

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On one edge of the village was a field with sheep grazing. It was great to be able to get up close. 

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My original plan had me walking on to 2-3 other villages. But with this village I really felt that I'd seen what I'd been looking for, plus it was lunch time, plus I was getting a bit tired of walking. So I popped into the Bakers Arms for lunch. 

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I had a delicious spiced parsnip soup with crusty roll. Coincidentally, the Bakers Arms was the local bus stop so I decided to stay there to wait for the bus to start the journey back. As with yesterday, connection times for the return trip weren't so good so it took a long time to get back to Cheltenham. This time I was able to take part of the trip by train (via Worcester) which gave me some time to research options for tomorrow's adventure.

I must admit, there were times today when I turned a corner and lost my breath at the beauty and surprise of the scene that appeared before me. Truly stunning. 

Slaughtering time

The reason for staying in Cheltenham was to use it as a base for exploring the Cotswolds. It's just outside the main Cotswolds area but very accessible. Though based on what I've learnt, next time I would/will stay in one of the small towns to get a more complete experience.

My original plan was also to drive but I've gone off that idea completely. The roads around here are as narrow as Cornwall. So this morning I checked out all the resources I could to plan an itinerary using local buses. It took a bit of jiggling but I came up with a plan that looked good on paper. But would it actually work?

First off I needed to make my way to the train station. Firstly to buy a Cotswolds Discoverer pass which would give me unlimited train and bus travel. And secondly to catch the 801 bus to Northleach. 

Northleach wasn't a final destination. I needed to change buses there. But it was still a good introduction to the feel of the Cotswolds.

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From Northleach I caught the 855 bus to Bilbury. Getting off the bus I overhead a woman with an Australian accent asking where the bus stop for the return journey was. I took the opportunity of speaking with her to find that out for myself too.

Bilbury was prettier than Northleach, with a small river running through the centre. 

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I wandered around town for a bit and then to the edge of town.

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Not the kind of wildlife signs we're used to seeing in Australia.  

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The bus back to Northleach and on to my next destination didn't leave until 1:17, so I decided it would make sense to have lunch. There were a couple of options, but the Swan Inn looked the best and was in view of the bus stop, just to be safe. Had a delicious pulled pork burger. 

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Also at the Swan Inn was the Australian woman I had spoken to after getting off the bus. Our paths had crossed a bit while wandering around town and we had a chat while we waited for the bus. She is from Newcastle visiting her daughter and having a holiday at the same time. She gave me a good tip for something to see at my next destination. 

We caught the 855 bus back to Northleach and then waited for the 801 bus to Bourton-on-the-Water. This town had yet another feel. By the time I got there it was about 2:30 and it was packed with tourists. Still pretty though.

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I had plenty of time before the final bus back to Cheltenham so I followed up the advice I'd been given which was to walk from Bourton-on-the-Water to Lower Slaughter. I know, the name sounds terrible but it's an old word for "miry place". The walk took me along a public walkway between the towns. I bought some maps with these walkways and am considering doing a bit more walking tomorrow. They're really good paths and it's a great way to get off the beaten track. 

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And Lower Slaughter was delightful. 

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All in all, the day was a bit like stepping back in time. The towns and villages feel like they have barely changed. Only the road signs and occasional modern conveniences remind you that it's 2016.  

The bus back to Cheltenham left Bourton-on-the-Water at 5:10. By now my feet were killing me. It was nice to sit on the bus for a while. The journey took about an hour and a half. I managed to catch some more shots of the scenery on the way back. 

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Time for a shower, a drink and some bangers and mash in the bar.