There are a number of walks around Grasmere, including ones that take you towards another lake. After yesterday morning's experience I decided to set out on a similar adventure this morning. I was out of the hotel by 5:30am. This time there were a few other people out and about by then, so I didn't feel quite so freakish. This morning was a clear blue sky, so the mist was more patchy. But it created some beautiful effects in the woodlands. 

Before heading off on today's major event I wanted to walk into Grasmere village. I needed to pick up a couple of extra t-shirts as well as look for some acclaimed gingerbread that I'd been told about. I found a shop that appeared to be selling the gingerbread but the shop assistant was upfront and admitted that it wasn't the "famous" Grasmere gingerbread. It was more a ginger shortbread. It still sounded interesting and I was impressed with her honesty so I bought some.

From there I hopped in the car and headed towards Keswick. On the way I planned to stop off to view (lake) Thirlmere if I got the opportunity. Thirlmere is actually a man made reservoir formed from two existing lakes, but is still impressive. A parking spot did present itself along with a short walk to a view point. 

After that brief interlude I continued on to Keswick. In total it was only about 30 min drive from Grasmere and I was beginning to become familiar with the road. 

First stop in Keswick was a visit to the Derwent Pencil Museum. The Derwent Pencil Factory used to be in Keswick and I believe they used to do factory tours. The factory has moved so I figured the museum would be the next best bet. It has been closed for renovations and today was the re-opening date. It was interesting in that it explained how pencils were manufactured but it was a little bit lightweight. 

After that it was on to the physical activity for the day, and probably the last big walk of the holiday. Latrigg is a viewpoint overlooking Keswick that is meant to be spectacular. I had downloaded a map from the internet that indicated I should be able to walk there and back in about 2 hours. 

As I started the walk I looked at the fell (barren mountain feature) ahead of me and could make out people at the very top (see arrow below). 

Surely that wasn't where I was going? Not only did it seem like a hell of a hike, I didn't see how I could get there and back in 2 hours. Surely Latrigg must be a lookout part way up the fell?  It wasn't. Latrigg was the summit and the climb was surprisingly manageable. Having said that, it was still hard work.

On the way up I passed some sheep and goats who were, I assume, totally oblivious to their beautiful surroundings. 

The final stretch of the walk snaked up the side of the fell. 

And the view at the summit did not disappoint. I provided nearly 360 degree views. The main being Keswick and Derwent Water.

There were fields, fells and other lakes in other directions too.

At Latrigg there was a viewing bench occupied by a couple of ladies for the entire duration of my stay at the top. I can only assume that they were determined to make the most of the effort it took to get up there. 

It was interesting to see the architecture of Keswick from above. 

Perched at the top of the fell, I reflected on where I was. It was a definite "pinch me" moment and feeling of intense gratitude.

At the top I met a couple and we exchanged some stories of our ascent as well as adoration for the view.

I spent a good 30-45 min at the top, finishing by taking some photos I hope to be able to stitch into a panorama. Then it was time to descent. Fortunately, a much less strenuous activity. I made it down to Keswick just before 2:00pm. My parking was due to expire at 2:30pm so I topped it up to give me a little time to wander around the town. Quite by chance I made it down to the water's edge. 

On my way back to the car, the image of these grand houses and the mountains behind caught my attention. 

On the way back to the hotel I made my second attempt to find the famous gingerbread, having done some extra research. This time I found it. The shop is tiny and adorable (should have taken a photo) and clearly well known with a steady stream of customers. As for the gingerbread, as described it was quite different - hard to describe how - and quite delicious. 

One more night, then the final leg of my holiday down to London. The food at this hotel has been outstanding - the best of the trip so far - but I've definitely felt conspicuous as a solo traveller here. The place is teeming with couples. It makes it a little bit tougher but I haven't let it spoil my time.

Last night I had decided to get up early and retrace my walk around the lake to catch some moments. After yet another restless night it was easy to get up just after 5:00am and head out. The lake was draped in mist. By the time I reached them at 5:30am the birds were in full song. I recorded some, but the constant road traffic did hamper my attempts a little. 

A beautifully peaceful way to begin the day. 

(The WiFi isn't very fast here so I'll have to lower the resolution of photos before uploading them while I'm here) 

There was a lone man fishing in the centre of the lake. 

After my peaceful (if early) start to the day I made my plans and headed off in the car. First destination was Windermere to then walk to Orrest Head, a lookout above the village. I managed to find my way there successfully and the driving was relatively easy. 

From the car park my sources indicated it would be a couple of hours walking to and from the lookout so I was prepared for a hike. And although it was quite a hike up the side of the hill, it only took about 30min each way. The view was breathtaking. You could see all of (lake) Windermere which is so long I couldn't fit it into one shot.

And the views away from the lake were just as beautiful. 

It was a popular spot, though I realised later that many were in a group together. 

After Orrest Head, I had decided to visit Ullswater. I would have a couple of choices of activity including boat cruise and walking. I plugged in Glenridding, the town at the bottom of Ullswater, into the sat nav and blindly followed the directions. Soon I realised it was taking me on exactly the kind of narrow, bendy roads I had desperately wanted to avoid. 

But there was no turning back so I decided to go for it. Luckily there wasn't much traffic which certainly reduced the stress. The road was narrow, often walled on both sides and frequently twisting and turning.  Furthermore, it was climbing. I later discovered it was taking me though Kirkstone Pass which is the highest pass open to traffic in the Lake District. Not only was the road treacherous, but in the highest parts there were goats and sheep wandering across and along the road at times. It required massive amounts of concentration. It also epitomised what was hugely frustrating about driving today. I knew I was driving through breathtaking scenery, I could sense the views all around me, but I dare not take my eyes off the road for a second.

Luckily on this occassion, there was a parking stop at the top of the pass which allowed me to get some shots. The road I had driven on is the winding one in the distant middle of the picture. 

After pausing to take photos I continued on and made it to Glenridding. By this time it was coming up to 1:00pm. The weather was sunny and very warm. I decided against walking and settled on a cruise on the lake instead.  The next cruise was at 2:20pm so I wandered and had some lunch while I waited.

The cruise was very nice, with great scenery, but I must admit it wasn't that dissimilar to the Windermere cruise I did last year. I got a little bored towards the end. 

There was a smattering of sailing going on. 

Our boat was in the same style as this other one we passed. 

At Howtown there were lots of children engaged in various activities. I assume it was some kind of scouting site or similar.

Near the end of the cruise we passed this guy. He was a fair way into the middle of the lake paddling along. He handled the wake from our boat expertly. 

The cruise ended about 4:45pm. I decided it was time to get back to the hotel. When I punched Grasmere into the sat nav it was going to take me back through the Kirkstone Pass. There was no way I was going that. So I did some research of my own. By asking the sat nav to go via Troutbeck it picked a different route that appeared to be better, if a little longer. Of course, I wouldn't know until I started. 

Turns out it was a much better route and for the most part very easy. It still required massive concentration and I was still teased by epic scenery in my peripheral vision. I'm going to plan to see some of it properly tomorrow. 

As I wandered on my early morning walk I reflected on how I was feeling. Obviously, I'd love to stay in the UK longer, but I think by next week I will feel ready to return home. It feels like I have been away for much longer than 4 weeks. 

I stayed in the Lake District last year and definitely wanted to return to explore a bit further afield. I decided a more central location might be nice and a car would expand my options. Unlike just about every other destination on this trip I don't really have a definite list of places to see yet. I'm hoping it will be easy to find some places I can drive to then do some walking. 

The hotel I selected is a little bit different to where I stayed last year. It's a bit more spa/resort and less character and charm. Having said that, it will be lovely. I have a great view of the lake from my window that I look forward to waking up to.  This is pretty much that view.

After checking in, I headed out for a walk. The hotel is on the edge of (lake) Grasmere and I was hoping I might be able to walk all the way around. To my delight there is a walking trail that takes you most of the way and you can follow roads for the rest.

The other side of the lake gave me a good view of the hotel. 

The water in the lake is crystal clear. I saw someone swimming across it as I walked around. 

My plan is to get up early one morning and do a circumnavigation to catch the early morning light. 

To my surprise my legs felt OK this morning after yesterday's trek. Today was a travel day so I needed to be up early. I had a rotten night's sleep, so that was quite easy. I took at taxi to the train station well in time to catch my 8:50am Trans-Pennine Express to Leeds. This was the same route I took to get to Scarborough. From Leeds I caught the 10:49am Northern service to Carlisle. 

The weather in Scarborough had been mild with blue sky. From Leeds it got grey and chilly before finally clearing up at Carlisle.  

The countryside started with the familiar fields before changing to a more barren landscape in the Yorkshire Dales and then returning to more pastoral.

I arrived in Carlisle around 1:30pm. Next task was to pick up my hire car. I'm not fond of driving while on holiday, but I decided that having a car would provide me with more interesting adventure opportunities in the Lake District. I remember public transport being quite restrictive last year.

After figuring out how to start it (new cars!) I made my way first to Keswick. The lady in the car hire place asked if I needed help getting to Grasmere. I explained the path I planned to take. She suggested an alternative which would be much more scenic. I decided to take her advice. She was right, but it was distractingly scenic! With a new car and driving in England to contend with already, having the magnificent mountains and lakes in my peripheral vision made it even harder. But I managed OK.

I plan to explore Keswick in more detail later so I only stayed long enough for some refreshment and a couple of snaps. 

From Keswick it was just a 15min drive to my final destination Grasmere where the hotel is. 

For the second time in a row the day didn't pan out as I expected. The original soft plan was to go for a stroll along a nearby walking trail for a couple of hours, come back and freshen up, then head to Whitby and/or Robin Hood's Bay for a second attempt at early evening light photography. To cut a long story short, the walk was so amazing and I was enjoying it so much that I just kept going. 21.6km later I've got some wonderful memories and two very stiff and sore legs.

So back to the beginning. The Cinder Track is a bike and walking track along the old disused train line between Scarborough and Whitby. Being a former train line, the walk is relatively easy with a mild gradient. After a slow morning I headed towards the start of the track at about 11:00am. The track was pleasant from the start but it took over an hour before I reached the outskirts of Scarborough and neighbouring Scalby.

The further away from civilisation I got, the more beautiful and peaceful the track became. Towards Scarborough there was a steady stream of parents wheeling prams but after that the track was only punctuated with walkers and cyclists. A couple of hours in I realised that this was what I wanted to do for the rest of the day. All around me was incredible birdsong with the occassional bird darting on to the path in front of me. I recorded as much of the sound as I could, when the singers weren't being shy on me.

The terrain changed as the track continued, as you'll see from the photos. Every path in front of me was a picture - a work of art - inviting me onwards. 

I realised that this was the most "in the moment" I have been on this holiday. 

Initially, the path was reminiscent of so many of the other paths I've explored on this trip.

I noticed the shine on the leaves of this tree. 

As well as a large number of perfectly formed dandelion flowers. 

Towards the town of Burniston, the path opened up. 

More verdant green fields. 

There was one section of trees decked out with accommodation for fledgling birds. 

And more fields. 

The path started to become more woody. 

Then opened up again. I noticed this wall snaking its way up the hillside.

All along the track there are the bridges that use to pass over the train line. They add a unique feel to what is now a pedestrian or cycling way. 

I noticed these unusually shaped gates in a number of places. 

I passed a number of fields with cows. In this field I first noticed a white cow scratching her chin on a post but then paused to meet the rest. I thought this was the most photogenic. 

For a while the track cut through dense woods. 

Before revealing glimpses of the sea. 

This was a former station on the line. The station building is now a residence and you can see the platform on the right. I encountered 3 other stations, but they were in far worse shape. 

Eventually the track opened up completely. 

Near Ravenscar I passed ruins of a WWII monitoring station. 

At Ravenscar I paused at the visitor information centre. While relaxing I chatted with a couple who were staying in one of the villages I had passed. We talked about many things including how beautiful the countryside is. Robyn, you'll be pleased to know there ARE some english folk who appreciate what they have! 

I was considering a couple of options for the final leg of my journey but the couple convinced me to stay on the Cinder Track. I'm so pleased that they did. Soon after leaving Ravenscar the view opened up to this incredible vista. 

What a place for a picnic!

In the distance I could see Robin Hood's Bay. 

From here on it was downhill, which was lucky because my legs were really complaining by this stage. Ideally I would have ended the walk an hour before, but I had to continue in order to meet the bus route for my return journey. 

My walk terminated at Fylinthorpe. As I reached the town I passed a caravan park with this reassuring sign. 

The weather was stunning and the light was brilliant. My head was tempted to turn right to Robin Hood's Bay but my body told me otherwise. When I reached the bus stop it was 5:26pm and the next bus was due at 5:36pm. It was a sign. I hopped on board and hobbled off at Scarborough 45min later. 

I feel so incredibly privileged to have experienced such a wonderful path through this country.  

Seeing the Larpool Viaduct inspired me to make a "small" diversion when I reached the end of the train line at Whitby. By this time it was around 1:30pm. My original plan for the day had been to spend the afternoon exploring Whitby, grab some dinner there and hopefully take advantage of the early evening light before catching the last bus back to Scarborough. But now I really wanted to find the viaduct and explore it a bit. At the time it seemed easy enough and shouldn't impact my overall plan.

On my map it appeared easy to get near where the viaduct was and I estimated it should only take 30-60min to get there. As I walked away from Whitby there were opportunities to take some snaps.

I managed to find the viaduct quite easily. It used to carry trains across the valley when the train line ran from Whitby to Scarborough. Now it's part of a bike and walking trail. 

On one side the river bends as it heads towards Whitby. 

On the other side I could see the train line that carried me earlier. I knew there was a walking trail on the river side of the track. I just needed to figure out how to get there! 

I found one walking track off the viaduct and weaving below. Totally unexpectedly, I came across this horse hitched to a tree with no one else in sight. At the end of the day I would see the same horse with rider as the bus turned into Robin Hood's Bay on the way back to Scarborough. 

I continued on my mission to get to the river side train track. My map app had some tracks marked on it so I had a strong feeling I was going to succeed. In the end it became clear my only option would be to walk to the nearest village Ruswarp where there was a crossing across the train line. 

So I walked. 

And walked. 

And walked. 

Before reaching the crossing and getting on the river side of the train track. 

Although it was a long and unplanned walk, it was lovely and I made sure I paced myself to enjoy the journey and not just anticipate the destination. 

Eventually I made it to the viaduct and it was worth it. 36m high, 279m long, 13 arches and 5,000,000 bricks, it was very impressive. 

From there I continued on the river track back to Whitby. I noticed the triangles of the roofs on the buildings on one side of the town as they cascaded down to the northern bank of the river. 

Captain Cook came from around this area so there are quite a few Captain Cook themed museums and buildings in Whitby. 

Whitby contains a number of streets preserved in time and thankfully devoid of parked traffic. I wandered around as I headed towards the famous abbey on the southern side of the river. 

Leading to the abbey are the famous 199 steps.  

At the top of the steps is St Mary's church and graveyard. It struck me that these stones were like the souls of the departed still looking down and keeping an eye on the inhabitants of the town below. I can't decide whether that's comforting or creepy. 

Next to the church are the ruins of Whitby Abey. These ruins date from the Benedictine abbey constructed around the 13th century. I hadn't been all that interested in exploring the abbey because it seemed quite decayed. But since I was there I decided to get a ticket and look around. 

The lush green grass was like a luxurious carpet connecting the ruins.

I was surprised at how substantial the abbey had been. 

By this time it was about 5:00pm. My original plan would have involved finding some dinner and then wandering around to do some photography in the late afternoon/early evening light. But I was exhausted. The extra walking to find Larpool Viaduct had not been in my plan and I'd used up my energy. The light was starting to look fantastic, beautifully lighting up the sides of the buildings but I couldn't bear the thought of wandering around for another hour taking pictures. I decided to listen to my body and head back earlier than planned.  

I caught the 5:43pm X93 bus back to Scarborough. On the way back the light on the fields and moors was better than I had seen so far, but I just couldn't get the camera out. I was done. I have one more day here tomorrow so I will probably try to hatch a better plan. 

Today was another one of those days that turned out quite different from the original plan. The day got off to a good start after a less noisy night and a better sleep. I went for the buckwheat pancakes and berry compote for breakfast and they were fantastic. As I enjoyed my breakfast I reflected on how it feels like I have been away for an eternity. That's a really nice feeling to have. And there's still just over a week to go! 

I also reflected on a funny trend I've noticed. The few times I've engaged in conversation with locals I've often remarked on how beautiful I think the UK is. The standard response has been along the lines of "yes, but you have better weather". Like they can't recognise what they have. When I respond that I'm not a fan of the hot weather they don't know what to say next. 

I headed off quite early. I needed to get to Pickering at one end of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. I briskly walked the 10min to the train station where the 128 bus to Pickering departed. I was there in plenty of time for the 9:10am bus. Pickering isn't that far if you travel direct but the bus did dart in and out of a few villages, something I was very happy with as it gave me more insight into the area. We passed through more green fields and villages with lovely stone cottages. The bus was a double decker and I decided to be brave and sit up top at the front. I say brave because last time I did that was in a bus from Windermere to Bowness last year and I really didn't enjoy the experience. But this time was OK and I got a great view. 

Pickering is a small town with a generally vintage feel. There was an open air market with a variety of things on sale, but nothing I was overly interested in. 

I headed straight away to the train station to get my bearings and secure a ticket. The station and surrounding areas purposely appear frozen in time, like this tea room. 

After wandering around Pickering for a little while I decided to head back to the station. My train was due to leave at 12:00pm and I got back there just as the 11:00am train was departing. 

The platform is decked out in 1930s style. Others on the line reflect other eras including the Goathland station which has been used for the Heartbeat TV series and first Harry Potter movie. 

I had some morning tea in the tea rooms at the station and bought a book from the gift shop while waiting for the train. Shortly after 12:00pm toots heralded the train as it rounded the bend into the station. 

This train was more substantial than those on the North Wales railways. The sound of the steam as the engine gained speed was so iconic. We even got a free fine layer of soot blown in through the windows.

The scenery along the line was quite varied. There were buildings dotted though the countryside and green fields. 

As well as stretches through the barren North Yorkshire Moors. 

This row of houses appeared out of nowhere with no evidence of other buildings to form a village. 

Part way along the trip I noticed a "passenger" hitch hiking on the outside of the window. He held on for quite some time, helped by the leisurely pace of the train. 

All up the journey took about 1.5hr. Towards the end the train went under the massive Larpool Viaduct. I wasn't able to get a great photo from the train but that led to the changes in the rest of the day. 

After Robin Hood's Bay, I decided to head to Staithes. This was another village I had seen gorgeous photos of. I took the bus from Robin Hood's Bay on to Whitby then caught the 12:43pm X4 bus towards Middleborough. The timetable indicated that it would stop at Staithes. The bus was similar to those in Wales in that it announced each bus stop. I eagerly watched and awaited Staithes. It didn't happen. I realised quite quickly that I'd missed the stop and got off. I had a short wait before a bus came the other way and I realised the mistake. The timetable said Staithes, but the actual stop was shown as Dalehouse - Captain Cooks Close. No wonder I missed it the first time!

Like Robin Hood's Bay, there was a walk down to the village. 

And more gorgeous streets and pathways. 

I was able to walk out to the breakwater to get some shots back towards the village. 

And then I climbed a path on one of the hills to the side of the village to get a bird's eye view.

As beautiful as both Robin Hood's Bay and Staithes were, reality didn't match the images I had seen back at home. I've come to realise that those pictures benefit from perfect lighting and timing and a bit of photoshop touching up. Very glad I visited both though. 

I walked back to catch the 3:34pm bus back to Whitby but realised when I got there that the particular service only operates after 28 May. Luckily the next was only at 4:04pm. I bumped into 3 gentlemen who had made the same mistake. My "insider" knowledge sparked a nice chat while we waited together.  From Whitby I took the 5:06pm X93 bus back to Scarborough. After a very long day it was nice to have a delicious meal in the restaurant. 

The hotel is really nice - service is great and the view is amazing. But the hotel is old and you can hear every movement in every room around you. Being Saturday yesterday, last night it was ridiculously noisy as people were getting ready for the night. But after that it was all good.  

I woke first just before 5:00am. I was eager to check out the sunrise so I couldn't resist opening the curtains a bit. It was beautiful, if less colourful than I had hoped. I tried to get some extra sleep but once my brain is awakened, that's it for me. I was up for a sumptuous breakfast at 7:30am. 

I had a rough plan for the day which started by catching the X93 bus at 9:50am. I bought an all day ticket which ended up being a great idea. The bus took me to my first destination Robin Hood's Bay (no relation to Robin Hood of Sherwood Forest). 

As with many of the most beautiful fishing villages, there was a walk down first. 

Before lots of winding, narrow streets and pathways. 

I noticed the huddle of rooftops.

At the water's edge there was a beach to one side. 

And cliffs to the other side.

At the end of the visit on the way back up the hill I turned back to see this view. Just perfect.

When I got back to the bus stop there was a bus already waiting so I eagerly jumped on board. After a couple of moments I realised it was pointing the wrong way and would have taken me back to Scarborough. Luckily I was able to hop off before it departed. And even more luckily the right bus arrived soon after. On to my next destination. 

The hotel was about 15 min walk from the railway station. It was a bit of a struggle in places, but you never know from the map. The hotel looks lovely and the room will be perfect. It's compact but I have a lovely sea view from the bed. 

The weather was lovely and I immediately re-grouped to set off. It's wonderful to get the fresh excitement of exploring each time I arrive somewhere new.  

I headed towards the town centre and beach. This is the south beach and you can see the ruins of Scarborough Castle on the hill. 

In the opposite direction a series of bays fade into the distance. This is very similar to the view from my window. 

In the bay I noticed what looked like a sailing ship. Initially I was excited to see such a ship, but then I noticed it was moving awfully fast. When I zoomed in I realised it was actually a "pirate" motor boat doing short trips into the bay and back. 

Beneath a bridge walkway that connects parts of the foreshore I noticed that the pylons were home to a colony of gulls. 

The old town has narrow streets and lovely old buildings. 

I walked all around the harbour. This is the view looking back to the hotel. 

And this is the view looking back to the town centre. 

I continued walking around the cliffs on which the castle is perched. This leads to the north beach. 

Numerous residences and guest houses are perched at the top of the cliffs with a fantastic view of the bay. At this stage I noticed the clouds were starting to look quite dark. 

I made my way up to cliff to explore a little when the first drops of rain fell. This street is typical of so many with small guesthouses sitting side by side. 

The rain got heavier and before long it was pouring. Luckily I had come prepared with jacket and umbrella. It briefly stopped again, giving me an opportunity to devour a delicious cone of icecream on the foreshore before the rain returned heavier than ever. It was time to retreat to the hotel. 

It's coming up to 7:30pm now and the rain has passed. There's just puffy clouds, a little bit of light on the cliffs in the distance and the soft sound of waves. 

This morning when I woke up it was wet, grey, blustery and cold ... perfect! The kind of day that I could finally sit inside and potter around without any guilt of not being out doing something. Having said that, I still found it really difficult to just sit and be in the moment. But by the end of the day I definitely began to feel a sense of calmness that I know I needed. Even when the weather improved and my itchy feet forced me outside, I managed to stroll instead of the usual gallop.

This morning I took the opportunity to take some pictures of this lovely hotel. Once I started, small details began popping up in front of me everywhere I looked. I only stopped because it began to get busy with people and I didn't want to become conspicuous or a nuisance. 

Tomorrow I take the final train trip back down to London for a few days before starting the trek home. 

The weather was looking a bit grey when I got up and it started to rain around 10:00. Luckily I only had one thing I really wanted to achieve today. Not that I couldn't do lots more, but I want to make sure I keep time to wind down - the last 4 1/2 weeks have been non-stop.

On the last leg of the train journey from York I noticed scenery that was a little different to what I had seen elsewhere. But the train was so packed that I couldn't get a good enough vantage point for photos. To fill in the missing part of my photo journal I wanted to retrace the steps. I won't be able to do that on the trip back to London because I will travel that part by bus.

So I caught the bus to Windermere. There is a bus stop right outside the hotel but busses aren't all that regular so I had to plan my journey. I walked around Windermere a little. As with the other towns around here, so many of the buildings are faced with slate.

Then I took a return train ride to Oxenholme. In order to get back in time for the bus back to the hotel I had to travel there and straight back. 

Elsewhere I've travelled in England the fields are all neatly (or not so neatly) outlined with hedges and the occasional dry rock wall. But around here grey (slate?) walls are everywhere and hedges are rare.

As the train came into Windermere two airforce planes came in low over the lake.  Along with the fly pasts the other day I'm surprise how visible and active the airforce is in this really touristy area. 

I caught the bus back to the hotel. By this time it was only 2:00 and the sun was actually shining. I was feeling guilty for not finding something else to do. Doing nothing while on holiday is a skill I'm yet to master. But I don't want to get home and feel that I still need a break. So, a quiet afternoon it is.  

The forecast for tomorrow is rain all day. That would be a recipe for guilt-free slothfulness. Fingers crossed. 

It was an impossibly prolonged goodnight. Each time I looked up, expecting you to be done, you were still present. Slightly faded from the last time but still lingering. In no hurry to be finished with the day. 

But now you've finally fallen into the darkness. And I sit with the lights off, watching you rest like a parent watching in wonder at the peaceful sleep of their newborn child.

This is a bit different. With no evidence of any other life it feels like you and I are the only two left in the world. And you are in slumber. I keep watch alone. At least, that's what I like to think. I know there's really life inside you, hiding beneath the shadows. 

This would be the ideal time to make my confessions. But I just sit. Trying to hold on to this feeling for as long as possible. Afraid to fall myself. Determined not to squander this rare moment or surrender it to the numbness of sleep. 

In the early morning, when the first sunbeams sneak around the edges of the curtains, you are the first thought to enter my mind. What is your morning look? And though my eyes are heavy from insufficient rest, I can't resist the desire to peek. 

But you aren't ready. You maintain control and composure, shrouding your modesty with white mist. You force me to be patient and close my eyes for a little bit longer. 

Soon enough I try again. This time you're ready to greet me, though you rise just as gracefully as you fall. Gradually blossoming as the increasing light reveals your features.

We share a moment. 

And then, in an instant, that moment is over. Family surrounds us, darting across the sky and heralding in full voice. Exercising flight and song as if they were new discoveries being tested for the first time. Vying for our attention.

Time to go our separate ways. For a while at least. 

Have a nice day. See you tonight. x

After a delicious breakfast overlooking the lake I hit the road. I had two soft targets for today: visit Ambleside and retrace the train trip between Windermere and Oxenholme for photographs. 

I walked to Bowness-on-Windermere as that's where the cruises leave. Ambleside is at the top of the lake whereas Bowness is midway down. I wasn't sure what to expect in Ambleside but I knew the landscape in the north was more mountainous. 

In Bowness, these boats were tied up near the piers for the cruises. 

The cruise takes about 25 min each way. 

Ambleside is a mile inland from the lake. On the way I spotted these sheep under the cover of the bushes. Not sure what they were taking cover from as it wasn't raining at the time.

Ambleside is pretty. Lots of buildings made from slate and some great views of the surrounding hills and mountains. 

This two room building over a stream was curious. 

I passed a small gallery with some lovely local paintings and prints. They had a series of prints which were a good size for my place so I bought a couple. 

Other than that I did anything BUT amble around Ambleside. I had it in my mind to get to part two of my day and I knew that was kind of dependent on catching the 1:05 boat back. So I kept up a rapid pace. In hindsight it might have been nicer to wander. 

Anyway, I made the boat in time. On the way back it started to spot with rain that became constant by the time we docked. Faced with the prospect of getting a little wet my resolution to continue on disappeared completely. After checking timetables I found a bus was due in a few minutes that would take me past the hotel. Bargain.  

So, even though it's only 3:00 I'm staying here in front of the fire in the bar. I've had some warming soup. Time to relax.

I wake up early. This morning, as warm and comfortable as the bed was, I couldn't wait to peek outside and see the early morning lake. 

After a quick coffee I had to go and explore. 

Today it was time to leave York and head to my final destination before returning to London then home. It had rained quite a lot overnight and was still drizzling in the morning. It would have been an inside kind of day anyway. 

I got to the station early and my train was in time. 

The first train was to Manchester. Then a change to Oxenholme Lake District. Finally a change to Windermere. The first train was relatively empty. The second was busier. The last train was packed. We passed a beautiful selection of countryside.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to get shots of the last leg because I wasn't by a window. The landscape was distinctly different. Hopefully I can get some photos later.

Windermere was packed with people. Much busier than I'd expected. The taxi driver told me this is nothing compared to mid summer. My hotel is out of Windermere and nicely secluded. It reminds me of a hotel Emily and I stayed in in Ireland. I have a window with a fantastic view of the lake.

The hotel is a converted manor house.

After having a sandwich in the Drawing Room (take note Emily) I got my things together to start exploring. I walked to the nearest town Bowness-on-Windermere. It took just under 45min. It was getting late when I got there, already 4:00pm but they were still running lake cruises. The weather had improved greatly so I seized the opportunity to do a short one.

The light on the walk back to the hotel was perfect for taking some more pictures. 

Just enough time to freshen up and have dinner with the lake as backdrop. Sun very slowly fading. Occasional swan gliding by. Amazing food and wine. A lovely end to the day.

Part of my plan for coming here was to wind down. I'll probably do a little exploring tomorrow, but then I think some lazing around the hotel will be in order.

I woke up after one of the best sleeps I've had on this holiday. It's was early, but I felt refreshed. After breakfast my first plan was to have one last go at photographing some of the older buildings in the city and then explore some more of the wall. 

Capturing the feel of the buildings is challenging. The streets are so narrow its often difficult to fit the whole building in and the streets are so dark that the contrast created by any light makes getting the right light balance tedious. I got some shots that I think will come out all right in post processing, but these two are OK as they are. The second one is meant to show just how ramshackle some of the buildings are. 

I picked up the wall from the eastern side and followed it around. It was still early in the morning and there were some great views. The wall is fascinating to walk and it's punctuated by gates and towers.

It was a beautiful clear morning and by the time I'd walked around the wall I was getting warm so I popped back to the apartment to change into lighter clothes. Then it was back to visit the Merchants Hall I had seen on my wall walk. It was built in the 1400s and was a guild hall for merchants. 

Somewhere on my walks I came across these cute goslings. There are quite a few geese in the rivers of York. I'm not fond of geese so I always make sure to keep my distance. 

From the Merchant Hall I made my way to Clifford's Tower. This used to be part of a castle. 

After grabbing some lunch I made my way to the main destination for the day - the National Railway Museum. 

They have a series of Royal carriages. This was the setting inside one of them.  Luxury.

They even have an authentic bullet train from Japan.

And some historic British trains. 

Probably the most fascinating was this cutaway steam train. I never realised that the round tank at the front contained all those pipes. I'd assumed it was just hollow. 

I spent quite a few hours wandering around before buying some great things from the shop. One is a book of transit system maps from around the world. It may sound a bit boring but I think some of these maps are mini works of art. I've always been a fan.

After popping back to the apartment again to drop of my purchases I walked my aching feet to one last destination - the York Museum. I had considered giving it a miss but I figure tomorrow is a train day and my feet can rest then. 

The museum was really well presented and gave a great insight into the history of York from prehistory, to Roman, Viking, Anglo and Norman. I took a photo of this tile because of the stamp. It just made it a whole lot more personal and real to think that someone placed that stamp there 2,000 years ago. 

That was a jam packed day. My feet aren't talking to me right now but I will rest them. Tomorrow I head on to the Lake District. 

Today I visited the National Railway Museum. At numerous times I experienced a feeling of nostalgia. Seeing this picture was just one of those occasions. The rounded booths selling newspapers and refreshments seem so familiar. But the reality is I've probably never seen them in real life.

As a kid I was into trains and making models. The catalogues all contained English and European railway scenes and I think I grew up with those scenes imprinted in my memory rather than those of Australia. 

It felt weird to feel so nostalgic about something I've only experienced secondhand.