Seeing the Larpool Viaduct inspired me to make a "small" diversion when I reached the end of the train line at Whitby. By this time it was around 1:30pm. My original plan for the day had been to spend the afternoon exploring Whitby, grab some dinner there and hopefully take advantage of the early evening light before catching the last bus back to Scarborough. But now I really wanted to find the viaduct and explore it a bit. At the time it seemed easy enough and shouldn't impact my overall plan.

On my map it appeared easy to get near where the viaduct was and I estimated it should only take 30-60min to get there. As I walked away from Whitby there were opportunities to take some snaps.

I managed to find the viaduct quite easily. It used to carry trains across the valley when the train line ran from Whitby to Scarborough. Now it's part of a bike and walking trail. 

On one side the river bends as it heads towards Whitby. 

On the other side I could see the train line that carried me earlier. I knew there was a walking trail on the river side of the track. I just needed to figure out how to get there! 

I found one walking track off the viaduct and weaving below. Totally unexpectedly, I came across this horse hitched to a tree with no one else in sight. At the end of the day I would see the same horse with rider as the bus turned into Robin Hood's Bay on the way back to Scarborough. 

I continued on my mission to get to the river side train track. My map app had some tracks marked on it so I had a strong feeling I was going to succeed. In the end it became clear my only option would be to walk to the nearest village Ruswarp where there was a crossing across the train line. 

So I walked. 

And walked. 

And walked. 

Before reaching the crossing and getting on the river side of the train track. 

Although it was a long and unplanned walk, it was lovely and I made sure I paced myself to enjoy the journey and not just anticipate the destination. 

Eventually I made it to the viaduct and it was worth it. 36m high, 279m long, 13 arches and 5,000,000 bricks, it was very impressive. 

From there I continued on the river track back to Whitby. I noticed the triangles of the roofs on the buildings on one side of the town as they cascaded down to the northern bank of the river. 

Captain Cook came from around this area so there are quite a few Captain Cook themed museums and buildings in Whitby. 

Whitby contains a number of streets preserved in time and thankfully devoid of parked traffic. I wandered around as I headed towards the famous abbey on the southern side of the river. 

Leading to the abbey are the famous 199 steps.  

At the top of the steps is St Mary's church and graveyard. It struck me that these stones were like the souls of the departed still looking down and keeping an eye on the inhabitants of the town below. I can't decide whether that's comforting or creepy. 

Next to the church are the ruins of Whitby Abey. These ruins date from the Benedictine abbey constructed around the 13th century. I hadn't been all that interested in exploring the abbey because it seemed quite decayed. But since I was there I decided to get a ticket and look around. 

The lush green grass was like a luxurious carpet connecting the ruins.

I was surprised at how substantial the abbey had been. 

By this time it was about 5:00pm. My original plan would have involved finding some dinner and then wandering around to do some photography in the late afternoon/early evening light. But I was exhausted. The extra walking to find Larpool Viaduct had not been in my plan and I'd used up my energy. The light was starting to look fantastic, beautifully lighting up the sides of the buildings but I couldn't bear the thought of wandering around for another hour taking pictures. I decided to listen to my body and head back earlier than planned.  

I caught the 5:43pm X93 bus back to Scarborough. On the way back the light on the fields and moors was better than I had seen so far, but I just couldn't get the camera out. I was done. I have one more day here tomorrow so I will probably try to hatch a better plan. 

After Robin Hood's Bay, I decided to head to Staithes. This was another village I had seen gorgeous photos of. I took the bus from Robin Hood's Bay on to Whitby then caught the 12:43pm X4 bus towards Middleborough. The timetable indicated that it would stop at Staithes. The bus was similar to those in Wales in that it announced each bus stop. I eagerly watched and awaited Staithes. It didn't happen. I realised quite quickly that I'd missed the stop and got off. I had a short wait before a bus came the other way and I realised the mistake. The timetable said Staithes, but the actual stop was shown as Dalehouse - Captain Cooks Close. No wonder I missed it the first time!

Like Robin Hood's Bay, there was a walk down to the village. 

And more gorgeous streets and pathways. 

I was able to walk out to the breakwater to get some shots back towards the village. 

And then I climbed a path on one of the hills to the side of the village to get a bird's eye view.

As beautiful as both Robin Hood's Bay and Staithes were, reality didn't match the images I had seen back at home. I've come to realise that those pictures benefit from perfect lighting and timing and a bit of photoshop touching up. Very glad I visited both though. 

I walked back to catch the 3:34pm bus back to Whitby but realised when I got there that the particular service only operates after 28 May. Luckily the next was only at 4:04pm. I bumped into 3 gentlemen who had made the same mistake. My "insider" knowledge sparked a nice chat while we waited together.  From Whitby I took the 5:06pm X93 bus back to Scarborough. After a very long day it was nice to have a delicious meal in the restaurant. 

The hotel is really nice - service is great and the view is amazing. But the hotel is old and you can hear every movement in every room around you. Being Saturday yesterday, last night it was ridiculously noisy as people were getting ready for the night. But after that it was all good.  

I woke first just before 5:00am. I was eager to check out the sunrise so I couldn't resist opening the curtains a bit. It was beautiful, if less colourful than I had hoped. I tried to get some extra sleep but once my brain is awakened, that's it for me. I was up for a sumptuous breakfast at 7:30am. 

I had a rough plan for the day which started by catching the X93 bus at 9:50am. I bought an all day ticket which ended up being a great idea. The bus took me to my first destination Robin Hood's Bay (no relation to Robin Hood of Sherwood Forest). 

As with many of the most beautiful fishing villages, there was a walk down first. 

Before lots of winding, narrow streets and pathways. 

I noticed the huddle of rooftops.

At the water's edge there was a beach to one side. 

And cliffs to the other side.

At the end of the visit on the way back up the hill I turned back to see this view. Just perfect.

When I got back to the bus stop there was a bus already waiting so I eagerly jumped on board. After a couple of moments I realised it was pointing the wrong way and would have taken me back to Scarborough. Luckily I was able to hop off before it departed. And even more luckily the right bus arrived soon after. On to my next destination. 

The hotel was about 15 min walk from the railway station. It was a bit of a struggle in places, but you never know from the map. The hotel looks lovely and the room will be perfect. It's compact but I have a lovely sea view from the bed. 

The weather was lovely and I immediately re-grouped to set off. It's wonderful to get the fresh excitement of exploring each time I arrive somewhere new.  

I headed towards the town centre and beach. This is the south beach and you can see the ruins of Scarborough Castle on the hill. 

In the opposite direction a series of bays fade into the distance. This is very similar to the view from my window. 

In the bay I noticed what looked like a sailing ship. Initially I was excited to see such a ship, but then I noticed it was moving awfully fast. When I zoomed in I realised it was actually a "pirate" motor boat doing short trips into the bay and back. 

Beneath a bridge walkway that connects parts of the foreshore I noticed that the pylons were home to a colony of gulls. 

The old town has narrow streets and lovely old buildings. 

I walked all around the harbour. This is the view looking back to the hotel. 

And this is the view looking back to the town centre. 

I continued walking around the cliffs on which the castle is perched. This leads to the north beach. 

Numerous residences and guest houses are perched at the top of the cliffs with a fantastic view of the bay. At this stage I noticed the clouds were starting to look quite dark. 

I made my way up to cliff to explore a little when the first drops of rain fell. This street is typical of so many with small guesthouses sitting side by side. 

The rain got heavier and before long it was pouring. Luckily I had come prepared with jacket and umbrella. It briefly stopped again, giving me an opportunity to devour a delicious cone of icecream on the foreshore before the rain returned heavier than ever. It was time to retreat to the hotel. 

It's coming up to 7:30pm now and the rain has passed. There's just puffy clouds, a little bit of light on the cliffs in the distance and the soft sound of waves. 

I chose Llandudno as a base for the Welsh part of my journey because it's central to the places I wanted to visit and seemed like a reasonable spot in its own right. 

The hotel is on the promenade overlooking the sea.  

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The sun was valiantly trying to peek out from the clouds so I went for a quick stroll around town. There were some people on the pier but I imagine it would get much busier here on the weekends in summer. 

It provided great views back to the beach and coast. And it was a great spot to pause for a drink.

Llandudno is sort of on a peninsula and it's possible to walk to the other side. Along the way I could see the houses perched on the side of the mountainous part at the end of the peninsula. 

The view on the other side of the peninsula is just as beautiful.

All of the official signage here is in Welsh and English. At the station, the train announcements were made in Welsh first and then English. 

My hotel room is a sea view room. Unfortunately they're doing some major extension work requiring scaffolding at the front of the building, but that doesn't prevent me from still getting a clear view of the sea as you can tell from this picture. 

Tonight I will read through all the pamphlets I have accumulated to plan my activities over the next few days. I'm looking forward to exploring. 

I've been wanting to visit Dover Castle for a while but didn't get to it on previous trips. I can vaguely visiting the castle as a child and I've been curious to see if any of it is familiar. From the train station it was about 1/2 hour walk to the castle. As you can see, the castle is high up on a hill. 

It was quite a steep walk in places. 

After breathlessly purchasing my entry ticket I began to walk around the grounds. There are numerous towers and walls dotted around the site in various degrees of decay. 

Eventually I made it to the main castle walls and the square keep inside.

Build circa 1181-88 - that's what I call a historical building. 

Inside the keep you can walk up stairways to check out the various floors and make it to the roof. 

There are a surprising number of stairways, passages, nooks and halls. I suppose I'd expected it to be one hollow space. 

I don't remember what was inside, so I'm not sure how recent these furnishings are. But they certainly bring the space to life.  

Along with a blazing fire in one of the rooms, it was surprisingly warm and cosy inside. 

One small room was the King's chapel. The stained glass created an incredibly vibrant pattern on the floor. 

The view from the top was spectacular. In particular, there is a saxon church also on the site within the grounds that looked perfect perched on the hillside.

And it was a long way down. 

When I reached the Constable's Gate I had my first real sense of recognition. I don't know if it was from a personal memory or from reading the souvenir guide mum and dad used to have, but I definitely remembered this part of the castle. 

Along the outer wall of the castle was the moat, now inhabited by grazing sheep. 

Inside, there were more walls. 

After wandering around the castle and stopping for some cake and coffee I headed to the edge of the site with a great view of the English Channel. Unfortunately, it was too hazy to see France. 

On the edge of the site was my last stop - the tunnels. Under and around the castle there are miles of tunnels on 3 levels. They were first built at the time of the Napoleonic wars and then used extensively in WWII. Finally, they were prepared for use as a nuclear fallout shelter which was thankfully never required.

The tunnels are now used to house a multimedia exhibition on the evacuation from Dunkirk. It was tremendously well done and took us deep into the tunnels, going more than 26 metres deep at one stage. 

The tour finished at 5:17 and the train back to Ashford left Dover Priory station at 5:58. I wasn't exactly how long it had taken me to walk to the castle but I didn't want to miss the train so I power walked back down the hill. Fortunately, I made it in plenty of time. 

By the time I made it back to the hotel my feet and legs were killing me. So I had a quiet dinner while working on my blog and resting those legs. 

And as expected, the weather had greatly improved from the grey overcast morning. In the middle of the day it had been sunny, though still fresh. 

Although I know there is much more to Cornwall and Devon than busy ports and sleepy fishing villages, tomorrow I head inland for the rest of my trip so I decided I should get my fix of the sea while I still could. I tossed up between heading east to Devon or west to explore more of Cornwall. West won, mainly because I had all the information I needed to get around and I've found the Ride Cornwall pass so convenient. 

First on the itinerary was Fowey. It looked nice plus I had a recommendation from a friend. I took the train to Par and then the 25 bus to Fowey. Once again, the bus stopped at the top of the town and I needed to walk down a little way to get to the shore. 

The waterfront gave great views of Fowey and Polruan on the opposite side. 

I admired this floating advertisement. 

I walked around a bit. More narrow streets and alleys. On the way I popped into one of the many bakeries and bought a cream doughnut with caramel icing. Not my usual thing but they looked so authentic and traditional. Very delicious. I told myself the walking offset the calories but I'm sure the calories are winning at the moment.

I also admired this display of seaside essentials for sale outside one of the shops. 

There was a coastal walk that I hoped would lead to St Catherine's Castle. My friend Adam had recommended it and it certainly looked like a good spot. Unfortunately I didn't take a great shot of it from the water front, but it was a long way up the cliffs. The walk there was lovely and got more beautiful once I left the road. 

But the view was well worth the climb. 

I slowly made my way back down again and had a delicious traditional Cornish pasty for lunch by the foreshore. It was 1:00 by this time so I decided to make my way to destination number 2.

The next destination was Newquay on the north west coast. I had read that it was much bigger but I thought it might be a nice contrast. It's on the Atlantic too, which I find alluring for some reason. I caught the bus back to Par and then a train on the small branch line to Newquay. I got there about 3:00. 

The tide was out which made the beach super impressive. 

The bridge between these rocks was crazy. 

Overall though, I found Newquay a little underwhelming. Nothing stood out. The next train didn't return to Par until 5:22 so I had some time to kill. I found a pub with an outside area and a nice view. 

Then I bought some fish and chips on my way back to the station. I stopped in a park overlooking the sea to eat them. The fish was amazing but the chips were a bit soggy. The wildlife were certainly interested though. One cheeky bird swooped in an stole a bit of fish right out of the container. I had to guard my food after that. But some of the birds were very beautiful so I have to forgive them.

And speaking of birds, I spent some more time today just listening to the chorus of bird song around me. Wonderful! 

The weather report for today had been mild - high teens. For the first time I went out without a jumper. Just t-shirt and jacket. By midday I had removed the jacket. Got a little bit of sunburn on my head though. That was unexpected. I've purchased sunscreen now for the remainder of the trip. 

One of my objectives for my stay in Cornwall was to get an authentic small fishing village experience, which is quite odd because I distinctly remember finding images of small fishing villages quite depressing as a kid. Anyway, I had a few picked out but I had assumed I'd only be able to reach them by hiring a car. And to be honest, I'd really rather not drive somewhere I don't know all that well. So I've been checking out public transport options and it's possible to get just about anywhere by train and bus.

One village I had my sights set on was Port Isaac which is the village they use for filming the Doc Martin TV series. I worked out this morning that I could get there by train and bus but it would take me most of the day. So I looked for a plan B. Already on my itinerary was a town called Looe which was a bit large to satisfy my main craving, but I noticed that nearby Polperro looked like it might fit the bill. So off I set after a hearty breakfast. 

First I needed to catch the train to Liskeard. That was the same direction I travlled yesterday. Crossing the Tamar River I got these shots.

Which reminds me, so many of the place names here are familiar. Launceston, Devonport, Truro, Callington, Modbury, the Tamar River - except these places are the originals. 

It only took about 1/2 hour to get to Liskeard where I had to change for Looe. The train went through a lush valley. There was undergrowth and a stream running beside the track most of the way. It was too close to get a proper shot that did it justice. Really pretty. 

When I got to Looe I explored a bit. It definitely has a port feel. The tide was on its way out. 

From the foreshore I could see a road climbing up the rocks on the other side of the river. This massive brick structure was essentially a bridge along the side. 

After having a snack on the seafront I found the bus stop for the 73 bus that would take me to Polperro. No sooner had we set of that my decision not to drive was validated. The bus made its way up a steep but narrow road while a poor little car was trying to come the other way. There were barely centimetres to spare. I would hate to have been the driver of the car. 

The trip to Polperro took us through winding hedged roads. I took this picture after getting off the bus, but this part was quite wide by comparison. 

The bus actually stops at Crumplehorn.  You then walk down a winding road to Polperro. 

As I decended into the valley my sense of expectation increased. It was a bit magical. When I got there, the tide was well and truly out but that didn't detract too much from the charm.  

I wondered around the tiny alleys to get different perspectives. The village was exactly what I had hoped to find.

And to the foreshore. 

Along one side was a sign for the coastal walk which eventually split off to Reuben's Walk. I walked for quite a long way. It was a good work out.

I paused for a little while at a seat and drank in the moment. It was definitely another "pinch me" moment. 

I looked back at Polperro. 

As I walked back to the village I noticed one building on the opposite side in particular.  With the trees it just seemed a little foreboding.

All that walking had worked up a thirst so I popped into the Three Pichards for a pint. 

When I emerged it was just spotting with rain. By the time I made it back to the bus stop it was pouring. 

The timing of transport for my trip there had all worked out perfectly. Unfortunately the way back was not so perfect. Nothing seemed to connect so I had quite a bit of waiting time. I guess that's the downside to public transport. But I didn't have to be anywhere in particular so it was kind of nice to just pause. While waiting at Liskeard for the train back to Plymouth it was delightful to take in the symphony of birdsong all around me.

It's been a long day. It's 7:45pm and I'm worn out. I'm not certain what I will do tomorrow. I'm thinking of heading east to check out some of Devon. 

It was odd sleeping in a single bed last night. It's been along time. But this guest house is very comfortable and it was lovely to have a home style breakfast this morning. 

I managed to get out by 8:30am which gave me plenty of time to get on the 9:10am train to Penzance. As I walked to the station I heard the bird call from Kate Bush's album Aerial. It was note perfect! 

I bought the 1 day Ride Cornwall ticket which allowed me to travel on as many trains and busses in Cornwall as I like in 24h for £10. I definitely got my money's worth today.

As I was waiting for the train I couldn't help notice all the locals in their t-shirts and shorts while I was rugged up in jeans, t-shirt, jumper and jacket. 

The journey down there took about 2.5h but was full of interesting and beautiful scenery. These rows upon rows of houses as we left Plymouth were so striking. 

Then it was into the open countryside dotted with towns and rivers.

This scene caught my attention with multiple generations of industry. 

And of course we passed many stations. 

Then more rivers and inlets. 

When we reached Penzance it was clear that the tide was out. 

I wandered around. It's quite a grey looking town but you can just feel the history of it. 

The weather was very blustery and there were numerous flocks of seagulls circling around. 

I stopped at a little caravan cafe on the foreshore for a ginger beer scone with lime curd and coffee. 

After wandering around some more I made it back to the train station to catch the train back to St Erth. From there I took a short train trip to St Ives.  

As the train came around the corner and St Ives came in to view my breath was a little taken away. It looks so pretty even with the tide out. I can't imagine what it looks like when the tide is in. 

All around St Ives are some very un-English-y sandy beaches. 

I wandered along the promenade. There were so many people out and about. Must get crazy here in summer. I stopped for a Cornish pasty (naturally) which I devoured looking out to sea. This guy was hoping for a bit but it was too good to share. 

I finished off by wandering through the back streets and checking out some of the many galleries. 

By the time I got back to Plymouth it was dinner time so I regrouped and headed out to the area where most of the restaurants are. I'm not so good at solo dining but I was determined to get out there and overcome my fears. Good news is I had a great meal and nobody died.