I went to bed late last night after all my night time photography shenanigans. Of course, that didn't mean my body would allow me to sleep in this morning. Still, I took my time getting ready as there were only a couple of things on my list for this final day. 

After much fluffing around I headed towards Oxford street going along the river bank as far as I could. I've seen the growth on this bridge before and it amazes me how it survives.

The tide was out and I wondered where each of these fragments would have originated from. 

The pedestrian crossing lights in Trafalgar Square now have a variety of different inclusive symbols instead of the traditional green man. I saw just about every combination you could imagine. This was just one. 

Near Oxford street is the Photographer's Gallery. Unfortunately, it was smaller than I had expected/hoped, but it was still interesting and I particularly liked an exhibition by Sophie Calle. I bought a couple of books from their book shop afterwards.

Following the gallery I slowly made my way back to the Thames. I popped through Carnaby Street to do a little bit of shopping.

Then I made my way back along the bank, stopping a couple of times for a drink and to soak up the atmosphere. I should have made more time for this and will remember for the future.  I passed a guy who was making huge bubbles for the crowd. I tried to capture some with my camera but it wasn't easy.

When I got back to the hotel it was time to pack before going out. Last night an advert for a play at the Battersea Arts Centre just happened to pop up in my Facebook feed and the first night just happened to be tonight so I though "why not". I caught the Northern Line from London Bridge to Clapham South and then walked about 20min to the theatre.

The play was fantastic. Really smart and ingenious in the way that they use light to allow them to change quickly back and forth between scenes. Here's a link if you're interested in knowing more. 

https://www.bac.org.uk/events/21989/view

I got back to the hotel by about 9:30pm. I will try to get to bed soon. I need to be up early in the morning so I can get to the airport in plenty of time. My flight departs at 9:15am. I will be a bit sad to leave, but I'm also very ready to go home. 

My original plan had been to do some day trips out of London but I've decided to make the most of being here and stick to city activities. I've had plenty of time to explore further afield during this holiday. Today's main activity was to catch up with a friend. That was scheduled for 1:00pm so I had time for some other things.

A place I wanted to visit was Leadenhall Market. I've seen photos and it looks quite ornate. It looked as I expected, but was quite small - more like an arcade. 

My next task was to buy a small suitcase. I haven't bought a lot but my case was packed full before I left and I've run out of room. I needed a second small case to split the contents. I caught the Central Line from Bank to Tottenham Court so I could have a look down Oxford Street. To my surprise, luggage shops were scarce and I found myself back at Muji before long. The other day I had seen a nice case there so it seemed like a sign. From there I headed back to the hotel to change before meeting Andy. 

We arranged to meet at Waterloo Station (sounds quite poetic). After some confusion over which entrance to meet at, we located each other and walked to Lower Marsh. After grabbing some lunch it was nice to spend a couple of hours wandering around the city and catching up. These looked a bit like high density housing for the local bird population.

Andy was on night shift and need to grab some sleep so we parted mid afternoon. I took the tube back to the hotel from Southwark station. I noticed the massive patterned wall in the station which also acted a bit like a mirror.

I tried to have a nap too as my final plan for the day was to head out with my camera in the evening. The nap didn't really work out.

I headed out around 7:30pm. Although it was still very light, it was a good light and perfect when the sun came out from behind the clouds to illuminate the western facing surfaces of buildings and bridges. I walked all the way down to the Houses of Parliament before stopping for some dinner and working my way back.

At this part of the river and at this level, the Thames looked so wide. 

The shapes of the roofs of this building reminded me of Disneyland. 

There is a large construction site near the London Eye.  I wondered, what would be the right collective noun? Maybe "a lifting of cranes"?

There was so much activity all along Southbank. This shot was taken around 9:30pm with people relaxing in chairs on the bank. It was a bit cool but no one seemed bothered. 

As the sun went down I took shots of this skyline from various locations. 

The cloud looming above St Paul's looked ominous.

In the end I was moderately happy with the results of my nighttime photography. I learnt a few things along the way that I would do differently and discovered that there were still limitations to what I would be able to do. Hopefully I will keep practicing so I can focus less on the technique and more on finding interesting scenes. 

By the time I got back to the hotel it was about 11:00pm and still there were lots of couples and groups of people around me all the way back. It felt very safe. 

Because the weather was supposed to be a bit dodgy today I decided it was a gallery day. I had two lined up that I'd like to visit. 

First off was Tate Modern which is only about 10min walk from the hotel. I've been a number of times before but not since the new extension was finished. I left the hotel around 10:30am. Since it was so close I decided to travel without bags or camera. I'm not a big fan of taking hi-res photos in a gallery and it was quite liberating to travel so lightly for a change. 

In the end I spent nearly 5 hours in the gallery and didn't make it to my second choice. But that's in no way a complaint.

I took this shot of a work in one of the free collections. It contained intricate mirrors that distorted and combined images from different sides of the cube.  Quite freaky.

I really enjoyed my time at the gallery and there were 2 highlights.

First was an exhibition of works by Wolfgang Tillmans. He is known for his photographs of everyday life and contemporary culture and for his pioneering method of displaying prints as whole-room installations. 

But the standout for me was a work by Janet Cardiff.  The following blurb and cheeky shots explain the premise better than I could.

Aside from the beauty of the piece itself, you had the added experience of being able to walk around and as you pass a speaker you could clearly hear just that person's voice. It's if you were able to weave in and out and in between the members of choir getting right up close. In that way it was incredibly intimate and personal. And as singers came in and out with their parts you might be startled when a voice suddenly booms from the speaker next to you. They even recorded the chit chat from the singers before the performance began which again added to the intimacy. I found the who experience very emotional and I listened to the entire performance at the start of my visit and again before I left.  I did feel a little sorry for the people who chose just to listen in the middle. Although they got an awesome surround sound experience, they would have missed the close up experience.

At the very end of my visit I decided to pop up to the 10th floor where there is an observation deck. As soon as the lift doors opened I realised I wanted my camera. The deck gives you a fantastic 360 view of the city at city level. Why did I not know about this? As the gallery would still be open for two more hours I decided to go back to the hotel and get my camera.  

I finished up taking a series of shots I hope I will be able to stitch into some type of panorama.  Here's just one.

The building itself was interesting too and I took a few shots of the interior. 

I had some dinner on the way back to the hotel as well as taking a few pictures along the Thames. At river level the Millennium Bridge looked a bit like a conveyor belt feeding people into St Paul's.

I might try some night time street photography tonight if the weather holds out. If not, I have two more nights to go and the weather is forecast to improve. 

Completely unrelated, I noticed this when looking out of my room this morning. Can't get much closer to the rail line than that. 

As you would hope in a hotel like this, I slept really well. The blinds are amazing and when they're down you would have no idea what time it is. Which is just as well since the sun was already rising when I peeked out at 4:30am this morning. I stayed in bed until 7:30am but I'm still feeling very tired.  

I headed down to breakfast overlooking the city. The sun was bright and warm through the windows. People were remarking on the weather so I assume it's not been so good lately. 

I was undecided on what to do today. My original plan had been to visit the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. They have a great collection of planes and it's been on my "to do" list for sometime. Luckily I checked their website because there was an air show on this weekend. That didn't appeal to me for two reasons: 1) it would be super busy, 2) I get a bit freaked out even when they do the fly pass for the Clipsal 500 so I don't think I'd enjoy it. I will leave it until later this week or save for another trip. 

In the end I decided to do a bit of retail therapy. I'm running short on a few clothes. I looked into using the hotel laundry service but realised it would almost cost the same to buy new items. I don't mind spending the money on the laundry service, but if I can get some new things for the same price then I may as well. Arriving in the hotel last night I also noticed the city lights and thought it might be fun to try some nighttime photography. The monopod I brought is OK, but it's not going to keep the camera still enough for long exposure shots. So my plan was also to either buy an extremely lightweight tripod or a cheap one I can afford to leave here. 

I wandered towards Oxford street. The city was quite busy with lots of tourists. The tide was way out on the Thames. As I've noticed on other occasions there were people fossicking around the banks. 

From this point, on the Millenium Bridge, I could also get a good shot of The Shard. By my calculations, my room is somewhere around the red dot. 

Oxford Street was very busy. For a long time I was indecisive but finally dived in and found a few things I liked. I popped into the Muji store and spent a while trying to dream up legitimate uses for the array of perfect boxes and containers. And finally, I found a camera store with a great tripod that folds into a very compact size but still has good stability. 

By this time it was starting to rain so I decided to catch the tube back. I caught the Central Line from Tottenham Court to Bank and then the Northern Line from Bank to London Bridge. From there it's a couple of minutes walk to The Shard. 

By this time it was nearly 5:00pm so I fluffed around for a bit and played with my new tripod. I had also originally planned to go to Horse Meat Disco tonight. I've been a couple of times on previous visits and have always really enjoyed it. But last night the rain looked as if it had set in and I was feeling tired and introspective. I decided against it.

I ordered some room service dinner to avoid having to sit in a restaurant alone. The view could be my company. Of course, it didn't just arrive on a tray, did it. 

After dinner I had a brief feeling of revitalisation and reconsidered going to HMD. It didn't last long though. Instead I utilised my new equipment to get some better quality night shots of London. With the new tripod I was able to take photos with less noise and sharper focus. I'm very happy with the results and will try to get out to do some at street level Monday or Tuesday night. 

I'm finishing my holiday in London because ... it's London. My favourite city. I'm not sure what I'm going to do here. I'm feeling quite exhausted from my adventures, so I might just take advantage of the luxury of my final hotel and just relax.

Speaking of which, when I was looking for London accommodation I had two considerations. Firstly, most of the other accommodation I had secured for the holiday had come in under budget which meant I could spend extra in London. Secondly, all of my previous stays in London have been in relatively modest apartments or hotels with little or no view and very little space. I thought it was time to stay somewhere nicer. When the Shangi-La at The Shard first popped up on Booking.com I giggled to myself and whispered "as if". But then the more I thought about it, the more I couldn't resist the temptation. The appeal was less about the luxury of the hotel and all about the views. I selected a mid price room which would give me a view to the east, missing the major landmarks but still spectacular. To my delight, when I checked in last night they had upgraded me to a north facing room with the perfect view from the Houses of Parliament on the left to St Paul's on the right and the Thames slap bang in the middle. Could not ask for a better view.

I got to the hotel about 9:30pm after catching a taxi from London Kings Cross station. The check-in process was easy and I was personally escorted to my room on the 40th floor. The room is even larger than I had expected. The bathroom alone is nearly bigger than the entire room in the final hotel of my last holiday here! And there are lots of nice touches, like a set of binoculars to check out the sights, a Nespresso machine for the early morning coffee, electronic blinds that do a magnificent job of blocking out the early morning sun (it was light at 4:30am this morning), and even a TV built into the mirror in the bathroom.  

But the main attraction is the view. I could just sit an gaze out the window all day and night. The photos just don't give you the full floor to ceiling panoramic effect of the view.

I had trouble deciding what to do today. I had a number of options but most had a downside I wanted to avoid. Yesterday I purchased a National Trust membership so I decided to consult their book for ideas. I settled on a visit to an estate known as Knole just outside Sevenoaks. 

Being the weekend, it was busy at breakfast but I managed to get through fairly quickly and head to the train station to catch the 10:02 direct to Sevenoaks. From the Sevenoaks train station it was a 20 min walk up a hill to the estate.

As soon as I arrived I came across a number of herds of deer. Luckily with my telephoto lens I could get some good pictures while keeping my distance. 

The grounds were expansive. Over 1,000 acres. I only covered a tiny fraction of them but the terrain was still varied. 

The "house" itself was suitably grand. My membership allowed me free entry. 

And there was (another) tower to climb with great views from the top.

In the middle of the building were a couple of courtyards.  As you can see from the photos, the sky momentarily cleared from the overcast it had been most of the morning.

Inside, a number of the rooms had been restored so I had a wander around. Unfortunately, photography inside was not allowed. The interior was very ornate with massive works of art everywhere. 

After a light lunch I headed back to Ashford. I wanted to buy some wet weather over pants for Singing With Nightingales tonight. The forecast is a bit ambiguous but we have been advised to be prepared. 

On the train back to Ashford I managed to take some more photos of the Kent countryside. This is typical of the farm houses I saw today. 

When I got back to Ashford I figured my best bet for the wet weather gear was the local "designer" outlet. It's a massive oval shaped collection of stores. 

Luckily, among the label stores there was an outdoor shop with what I was looking for. 

So now I'm all prepared. All we need now are the nightingales to show up! 

From the warmth of a hotel room I headed out. Free of expectations, because how can you form an expectation of such an unlikely event?

We met by a campfire at a farm outside of town. Green Farm, on Church Lane, Shadoxhurst - every part of that address conjures up images to me. 10 or so people, some strangers, some known to each other. Me, feeling my usual social awkwardness but managing to keep conversations alive. Added to the guest numbers were Tom the ornithologist, Clara the musician, Martin the owner of the farm and his wife Emily, and Will - I'm not sure of Will's official role other than to be adorably passionate about all things nature.

After greeting, we headed out on a dusk walk through the woods, Will quizzing us about every tree and encouraging us to adjust to the sounds of the birds, Tom separating and identifying each bird by their song. We walked casually, anticipating the return journey we would make under the cover of darkness.

Return to the fireplace and delicious warm food. Will spoke more and Tom introduced us to the story of nightingale and the long journeys they have taken to be with us tonight. Clara sang, in Catalan and English, with accordion and guitar. A sweet yet strong voice reaching out as the darkness drew nearer. Fire keeping us warm as the temperature dropped.

Then it was time to venture out again. But this time into the total darkness. This time to be greeted by only one song - the nightingale. Wrapped in warm blankets we walked silently across fields, through gates and woods. We began to hear the songs around us in the distance but we didn't stop. Eventually we reached our destination. Our bird was in the thick undergrowth. Safe and brave. Aware of us, despite our best attempts, but too determined to sing his song of love to be distracted.

We settled down and listened. Another was nearby, competing in song.

After a while, Clara began her duet, mimicking and contrasting the bird song. Starting softly and building until she was as loud as her partner only metres away. We sat and listened, in awe, in dream like silence, in the shared communion of a special experience.

When the time eventually came to leave, we quietly rose, gathered ourselves and began the long walk back. Reverent, feeling privileged and thankful. Leaving our friends to continue their song long into the dark night.

(Here's video from an earlier performance)

[youtube=://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x-DEV6aLbA&w=854&h=480]

I took the train to Hastings. On the final approach to the station we passed hills of 3-4 story houses perched up high. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a photo. I need to get to Hastings in order to catch a bus to Bodiam where there is a ruined castle I wanted to visit. I think castles will be a major feature of this trip.

As I waited for the 349 bus I noticed that everyone getting on the other buses were using contactless cards. I didn't see anyone pay by cash. This made me a little concerned that I wouldn't be able to get a ticket so I asked someone and they confirmed that you can pay by cash. Phew! When the 349 bus arrived I purchased a return ticket to Bodiam.  The bus took about an hour with 1/2 of the trip travelling along narrow roads edged with hedgerows. 

When I arrived, the castle was peeking through the trees. After purchasing my ticket from an extremely friendly assistant I started to explore the grounds and the castle. 

Bodiam is quite distinctive in its compact design and intact moat. 

You can walk up the stairs inside the towers, though the steps were ridiculously high. The top gave a great view of the Kent countryside. 

They also gave a good view of the ruins inside the castle. Unlike Dover, there were hardly any intact spaces. 

I started to get a little fixated by photographing the outside world through the empty windows, gaping holes and doorways.

Walking back across the bridge to the castle, another visitor noticed the very unattractive fish in the moat. 

I had a while to wait before the bus back to Hastings, so wandered around the tiny town on Bodiam and the beautiful surrounding Kent countryside. 

I started to worry when the bus was over 10 min late. They don't run very frequently. Just as I was trying to figure out what I'd do if it didn't turn up, it arrived and took me back to Hastings before a final train trip back to Ashford station.  

The walk back to the hotel was grey and very cold. I even needed to get out my hat and gloves for the first time to keep me warm. But, once again, that's not really a complaint. I don't mind a bit of cold.

It was another fun day of adventure in beautiful countryside.

I slept solidly again last night apart from waking up around 3:30am. Actually, the waking up is a good sign because that's what I tend to do at home - so I must be adjusting well. Actually I haven't experienced any jet lag to speak of at all. 

After another good breakfast and some planning I headed back to the station. The weather was grey with some blue patches. I think it had rained again overnight. 

My first destination was a little town called Rye. I've seen some photos and thought it would be a quaint place to visit. 

On arrival I was treated by yet another city gate. 

I wandered around the narrow streets with many Elizabethan and medieval buildings before reaching Mermaid Street which is by far the most picturesque. 

After some morning tea in a tiny tea room I headed to the main church which was advertising climbs to their tower. 

The stairs to the top were definitely the steepest and most narrow I have ever experienced. At one stage I could only proceed by walking side ways with my camera bag in front of me. Luckily the views were worth it. 

It was incredibly gusty at the top. I wondered how these birds could be so calmly perched in that weather. 

After the tower I made my way back to the train station past the river. The tide was out, which seems to be a recurring theme for me.  But it did make me giggle at the sign. 

I only had a short wait at the station before my next train to Hastings. 

I've been wanting to visit Dover Castle for a while but didn't get to it on previous trips. I can vaguely visiting the castle as a child and I've been curious to see if any of it is familiar. From the train station it was about 1/2 hour walk to the castle. As you can see, the castle is high up on a hill. 

It was quite a steep walk in places. 

After breathlessly purchasing my entry ticket I began to walk around the grounds. There are numerous towers and walls dotted around the site in various degrees of decay. 

Eventually I made it to the main castle walls and the square keep inside.

Build circa 1181-88 - that's what I call a historical building. 

Inside the keep you can walk up stairways to check out the various floors and make it to the roof. 

There are a surprising number of stairways, passages, nooks and halls. I suppose I'd expected it to be one hollow space. 

I don't remember what was inside, so I'm not sure how recent these furnishings are. But they certainly bring the space to life.  

Along with a blazing fire in one of the rooms, it was surprisingly warm and cosy inside. 

One small room was the King's chapel. The stained glass created an incredibly vibrant pattern on the floor. 

The view from the top was spectacular. In particular, there is a saxon church also on the site within the grounds that looked perfect perched on the hillside.

And it was a long way down. 

When I reached the Constable's Gate I had my first real sense of recognition. I don't know if it was from a personal memory or from reading the souvenir guide mum and dad used to have, but I definitely remembered this part of the castle. 

Along the outer wall of the castle was the moat, now inhabited by grazing sheep. 

Inside, there were more walls. 

After wandering around the castle and stopping for some cake and coffee I headed to the edge of the site with a great view of the English Channel. Unfortunately, it was too hazy to see France. 

On the edge of the site was my last stop - the tunnels. Under and around the castle there are miles of tunnels on 3 levels. They were first built at the time of the Napoleonic wars and then used extensively in WWII. Finally, they were prepared for use as a nuclear fallout shelter which was thankfully never required.

The tunnels are now used to house a multimedia exhibition on the evacuation from Dunkirk. It was tremendously well done and took us deep into the tunnels, going more than 26 metres deep at one stage. 

The tour finished at 5:17 and the train back to Ashford left Dover Priory station at 5:58. I wasn't exactly how long it had taken me to walk to the castle but I didn't want to miss the train so I power walked back down the hill. Fortunately, I made it in plenty of time. 

By the time I made it back to the hotel my feet and legs were killing me. So I had a quiet dinner while working on my blog and resting those legs. 

And as expected, the weather had greatly improved from the grey overcast morning. In the middle of the day it had been sunny, though still fresh. 

After falling into bed before 6:30 I slept well and quite solidly for nearly 11 hours. I awoke feeling only a little tired and certainly without any signs of jet lag and was up by 6:00 to head down to breakfast early. It was drizzling a little outside, grey and cold but I had an inkling it would improve.

After a nourishing breakfast I got myself ready to head out on my first adventure. The walk to the station took about 1/2 hour and along the way I adjusted to the realisation that I was back here again and it felt so nice. The rain had stopped but it was still grey and cold - but I didn't mind at all.

First destination was going to be Canterbury. I caught the 9:30 train to Canterbury West. On the way there we passed green fields interspersed with undulations and woods. I would discover that this is typical of the Kent countryside. Upon my arrival I headed to the centre of the town through a city gate.

The cathedral is huge. I thought York Minster from last year was big, but Canterbury feels much more cavernous and has extensive grounds around it. 

The pulpit was rather ornate. 

As you'd expect, there was stained glass everywhere. Some of the most intricate I have seen. 

Along with incredibly detailed ceilings. 

After wandering through each part of the interior, I explored the grounds. The wisterias are out at the moment.

I thought these lights were interesting. 

After buying a beautiful book on song birds, I made my way through the town to Canterbury East station, stopping for some lunch along the way. 

For some reason, this house caught my eye.

Finally, just before the station, I came across a wheel anchored to the wall. No idea why. 

After a 1/2 hour wait at the train station I boarded the train to my next destination - Dover. 

I picked Ashford as a central base for Kent. Technically, I was born in Kent. Though my hometown, Dartford, is on the edge between Greater London and Kent, so only just. I wanted to visit Kent because it's often described as the garden of England.  

I have quite a few places I'd like to see but not enough time to see them all. It will come down to weather and how I feel each day. 

Today is my last full day in the Cotswolds. I had two alternative plans. One was to head north to Tewksebury. The other was to head south to Stroud and Painswick. As I was checking train times this morning I discovered that there had been an accident on the line to Worcester that I would need for Tewksebury and the line was out. Decision made. 

Of course, the problems with the train line were a little more concerning because that's the line my train will use tomorrow. I started to make alternative plans just in case I had to get to York via a different route. 

Once organised, I headed to the train station to take the train to Stroud. There was a degree of chaos there regarding the line problems but the staff were doing a great job and appeared to be managing the situation as best they could. My train was only partly affected as extra people needed to travel south in order to catch a different line north. 

I wasn't quite sure what to expect at Stroud. What I found was a bit of a mishmash. Some very old buildings some newer. But what I saw didn't have the charm of the other towns I've seen.

What was different, and most impressive about the town were the views of the countryside from within the town. 

There was a busy market in an area of the town called The Shambles, mainly farmers market but there were some craft stalls dotted around. I wandered a bit.

One stall had some amazing mounted photographs of the Cotswolds. I was tempted to buy one but decided to get it on the way back through Stroud at the end of the day (unfortunately plans changed and that didn't happen). I did, however, buy a delicious chocolate and lemon cheesecake brownie from a brownie stall. And the waistline expansion continues.

I didn't stay in Stroud long though. Instead I took the 61 bus to get to Painswick.  Painswick had a completely different feel. The buildings were reminiscent of the other villages I've visited, but with similarly spectacular views to Stroud. Like yesterday, utterly breathtaking at times.

One shop had this cute tiny window display. 

St Mary's church is in the centre of the town. A cemetery with numerous topiary trees surrounds it.  I saw a photograph of the village in a window that I think would have been taken from the base of the spire. There was a mist over the buildings and it just looked magical.

I wandered around so much that I missed the bus I had intended to catch back to Stroud. So instead I popped in to the Falcon Inn for delicious beef and ale pie followed by salted caramel chocolate tart with salted caramel ice cream. More expanding waistline.

Lunch didn't seem that much but I found it hard to move afterwards. Instead of returning to Stroud I decided the easiest option would be to continue with the 61 bus on to Cheltenham.  As the bus reached the edge of the town an incredible vista of the surrounding hills opened up. If only I had walked a little bit further!

By the time I got back to the hotel I felt I needed to walk off lunch a bit more so I wandered around the area by the hotel a bit. By this time it was about 4:30. So many trees are in blossom. There is one kind in particular I have noticed. It has cones of blossom pointing upward. This picture doesn't show the shape all that well, but it was the only tree I could find with the right light for a photograph.

So, the last three days have exceeded my expectations of what I would find in the Cotswolds and I understand why they are designated as an AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). 

Also, it looks like the train line to the north has been cleared, so I'm hopeful that tomorrow's journey will be able to proceed as originally planned. I'll check again in the morning to be safe. 

The places I visited yesterday were beautiful but I still felt that I had only scratched the surface of Cotswolds beauty. After all, I hadn't seen a proper thatched roof cottage yet! So today I decided to go even more off the beaten track. I picked up some good walking maps from Bourton-on-the-Water yesterday and planned a trip around a place called Chipping Campden.

First up I needed to catch the 801 bus again but this time all the way to Moreton-in-Marsh. I had to change buses at the train station. The signal box at the station was very cute. 

Next I caught the 22 bus to Chipping Campden. The bus wound through Bourton-on-the-Hill, Blockley and Broad Campden. All of them looked gorgeous but only Broad Campden was going to be easy enough for me to get to. By the way, I think the names of these places are just as beautiful as the places themselves. 

Chipping Campden was another large town, but with lots of very historic buildings in the honey coloured stone of the Cotswolds. I wandered around a bit, but it was very much a sense of more of the same as yesterday. And it was already busy with tourists. 

I was keen to get back to Broad Campden so I headed off down one of the walking paths. 

Broad Campden was exactly what I felt I had missed so far. Small, charming, no tourists ... and a good smattering of thatched cottages. 

I noticed this on the top of one of the thatches. 

All of the walking paths around the village led to beautiful views. 

On one edge of the village was a field with sheep grazing. It was great to be able to get up close. 

My original plan had me walking on to 2-3 other villages. But with this village I really felt that I'd seen what I'd been looking for, plus it was lunch time, plus I was getting a bit tired of walking. So I popped into the Bakers Arms for lunch. 

I had a delicious spiced parsnip soup with crusty roll. Coincidentally, the Bakers Arms was the local bus stop so I decided to stay there to wait for the bus to start the journey back. As with yesterday, connection times for the return trip weren't so good so it took a long time to get back to Cheltenham. This time I was able to take part of the trip by train (via Worcester) which gave me some time to research options for tomorrow's adventure.

I must admit, there were times today when I turned a corner and lost my breath at the beauty and surprise of the scene that appeared before me. Truly stunning. 

The reason for staying in Cheltenham was to use it as a base for exploring the Cotswolds. It's just outside the main Cotswolds area but very accessible. Though based on what I've learnt, next time I would/will stay in one of the small towns to get a more complete experience.

My original plan was also to drive but I've gone off that idea completely. The roads around here are as narrow as Cornwall. So this morning I checked out all the resources I could to plan an itinerary using local buses. It took a bit of jiggling but I came up with a plan that looked good on paper. But would it actually work?

First off I needed to make my way to the train station. Firstly to buy a Cotswolds Discoverer pass which would give me unlimited train and bus travel. And secondly to catch the 801 bus to Northleach. 

Northleach wasn't a final destination. I needed to change buses there. But it was still a good introduction to the feel of the Cotswolds.

From Northleach I caught the 855 bus to Bilbury. Getting off the bus I overhead a woman with an Australian accent asking where the bus stop for the return journey was. I took the opportunity of speaking with her to find that out for myself too.

Bilbury was prettier than Northleach, with a small river running through the centre. 

I wandered around town for a bit and then to the edge of town.

Not the kind of wildlife signs we're used to seeing in Australia.  

The bus back to Northleach and on to my next destination didn't leave until 1:17, so I decided it would make sense to have lunch. There were a couple of options, but the Swan Inn looked the best and was in view of the bus stop, just to be safe. Had a delicious pulled pork burger. 

Also at the Swan Inn was the Australian woman I had spoken to after getting off the bus. Our paths had crossed a bit while wandering around town and we had a chat while we waited for the bus. She is from Newcastle visiting her daughter and having a holiday at the same time. She gave me a good tip for something to see at my next destination. 

We caught the 855 bus back to Northleach and then waited for the 801 bus to Bourton-on-the-Water. This town had yet another feel. By the time I got there it was about 2:30 and it was packed with tourists. Still pretty though.

I had plenty of time before the final bus back to Cheltenham so I followed up the advice I'd been given which was to walk from Bourton-on-the-Water to Lower Slaughter. I know, the name sounds terrible but it's an old word for "miry place". The walk took me along a public walkway between the towns. I bought some maps with these walkways and am considering doing a bit more walking tomorrow. They're really good paths and it's a great way to get off the beaten track. 

And Lower Slaughter was delightful. 

All in all, the day was a bit like stepping back in time. The towns and villages feel like they have barely changed. Only the road signs and occasional modern conveniences remind you that it's 2016.  

The bus back to Cheltenham left Bourton-on-the-Water at 5:10. By now my feet were killing me. It was nice to sit on the bus for a while. The journey took about an hour and a half. I managed to catch some more shots of the scenery on the way back. 

Time for a shower, a drink and some bangers and mash in the bar. 

The hotel I'm staying in was first opened in 1838. It's quite grand and it will be a great base for my exploration of the Cotswolds.  

The room overlooks a park. 

The hotel has an impressive central staircase. 

By the time I had regroued and was ready to explore the wet weather had arrived. I waited in the lobby for the first shower to pass before heading out. Cheltenham is a lovely looking city with lots of Georgian buildings. It was too dark and wet to get pictures today but I will at some stage. After wandering a little and stopping for a coffee the rain looked set in so I decided to return to the warmth of the hotel for the evening. 

Today it was time to move on to my next destination in England. My train from Plymouth to Cheltenham Spa departed at 11:25 which meant I could have a slow morning. After essentially repacking my suitcase I made it to the train station in plenty of time. Luckily the train started from Plymouth so it was already waiting for boarding. 

I haven't travelled with this particular train company before. The seats were very comfortable and I was very happy with the location I had chosen. 

The journey took 2.5h through the variety of scenery I have come to expect and enjoy. 

The most populous area we went through was Bristol toward the end of the journey. 

Parked in Bristol station was a steam engine with these carriages. Maybe that's what I should book on my next trip? 

By this time the weather was looking quite grey and wet. 

The train arrived on time and I got a taxi to the hotel. 

Although I know there is much more to Cornwall and Devon than busy ports and sleepy fishing villages, tomorrow I head inland for the rest of my trip so I decided I should get my fix of the sea while I still could. I tossed up between heading east to Devon or west to explore more of Cornwall. West won, mainly because I had all the information I needed to get around and I've found the Ride Cornwall pass so convenient. 

First on the itinerary was Fowey. It looked nice plus I had a recommendation from a friend. I took the train to Par and then the 25 bus to Fowey. Once again, the bus stopped at the top of the town and I needed to walk down a little way to get to the shore. 

The waterfront gave great views of Fowey and Polruan on the opposite side. 

I admired this floating advertisement. 

I walked around a bit. More narrow streets and alleys. On the way I popped into one of the many bakeries and bought a cream doughnut with caramel icing. Not my usual thing but they looked so authentic and traditional. Very delicious. I told myself the walking offset the calories but I'm sure the calories are winning at the moment.

I also admired this display of seaside essentials for sale outside one of the shops. 

There was a coastal walk that I hoped would lead to St Catherine's Castle. My friend Adam had recommended it and it certainly looked like a good spot. Unfortunately I didn't take a great shot of it from the water front, but it was a long way up the cliffs. The walk there was lovely and got more beautiful once I left the road. 

But the view was well worth the climb. 

I slowly made my way back down again and had a delicious traditional Cornish pasty for lunch by the foreshore. It was 1:00 by this time so I decided to make my way to destination number 2.

The next destination was Newquay on the north west coast. I had read that it was much bigger but I thought it might be a nice contrast. It's on the Atlantic too, which I find alluring for some reason. I caught the bus back to Par and then a train on the small branch line to Newquay. I got there about 3:00. 

The tide was out which made the beach super impressive. 

The bridge between these rocks was crazy. 

Overall though, I found Newquay a little underwhelming. Nothing stood out. The next train didn't return to Par until 5:22 so I had some time to kill. I found a pub with an outside area and a nice view. 

Then I bought some fish and chips on my way back to the station. I stopped in a park overlooking the sea to eat them. The fish was amazing but the chips were a bit soggy. The wildlife were certainly interested though. One cheeky bird swooped in an stole a bit of fish right out of the container. I had to guard my food after that. But some of the birds were very beautiful so I have to forgive them.

And speaking of birds, I spent some more time today just listening to the chorus of bird song around me. Wonderful! 

The weather report for today had been mild - high teens. For the first time I went out without a jumper. Just t-shirt and jacket. By midday I had removed the jacket. Got a little bit of sunburn on my head though. That was unexpected. I've purchased sunscreen now for the remainder of the trip. 

One of my objectives for my stay in Cornwall was to get an authentic small fishing village experience, which is quite odd because I distinctly remember finding images of small fishing villages quite depressing as a kid. Anyway, I had a few picked out but I had assumed I'd only be able to reach them by hiring a car. And to be honest, I'd really rather not drive somewhere I don't know all that well. So I've been checking out public transport options and it's possible to get just about anywhere by train and bus.

One village I had my sights set on was Port Isaac which is the village they use for filming the Doc Martin TV series. I worked out this morning that I could get there by train and bus but it would take me most of the day. So I looked for a plan B. Already on my itinerary was a town called Looe which was a bit large to satisfy my main craving, but I noticed that nearby Polperro looked like it might fit the bill. So off I set after a hearty breakfast. 

First I needed to catch the train to Liskeard. That was the same direction I travlled yesterday. Crossing the Tamar River I got these shots.

Which reminds me, so many of the place names here are familiar. Launceston, Devonport, Truro, Callington, Modbury, the Tamar River - except these places are the originals. 

It only took about 1/2 hour to get to Liskeard where I had to change for Looe. The train went through a lush valley. There was undergrowth and a stream running beside the track most of the way. It was too close to get a proper shot that did it justice. Really pretty. 

When I got to Looe I explored a bit. It definitely has a port feel. The tide was on its way out. 

From the foreshore I could see a road climbing up the rocks on the other side of the river. This massive brick structure was essentially a bridge along the side. 

After having a snack on the seafront I found the bus stop for the 73 bus that would take me to Polperro. No sooner had we set of that my decision not to drive was validated. The bus made its way up a steep but narrow road while a poor little car was trying to come the other way. There were barely centimetres to spare. I would hate to have been the driver of the car. 

The trip to Polperro took us through winding hedged roads. I took this picture after getting off the bus, but this part was quite wide by comparison. 

The bus actually stops at Crumplehorn.  You then walk down a winding road to Polperro. 

As I decended into the valley my sense of expectation increased. It was a bit magical. When I got there, the tide was well and truly out but that didn't detract too much from the charm.  

I wondered around the tiny alleys to get different perspectives. The village was exactly what I had hoped to find.

And to the foreshore. 

Along one side was a sign for the coastal walk which eventually split off to Reuben's Walk. I walked for quite a long way. It was a good work out.

I paused for a little while at a seat and drank in the moment. It was definitely another "pinch me" moment. 

I looked back at Polperro. 

As I walked back to the village I noticed one building on the opposite side in particular.  With the trees it just seemed a little foreboding.

All that walking had worked up a thirst so I popped into the Three Pichards for a pint. 

When I emerged it was just spotting with rain. By the time I made it back to the bus stop it was pouring. 

The timing of transport for my trip there had all worked out perfectly. Unfortunately the way back was not so perfect. Nothing seemed to connect so I had quite a bit of waiting time. I guess that's the downside to public transport. But I didn't have to be anywhere in particular so it was kind of nice to just pause. While waiting at Liskeard for the train back to Plymouth it was delightful to take in the symphony of birdsong all around me.

It's been a long day. It's 7:45pm and I'm worn out. I'm not certain what I will do tomorrow. I'm thinking of heading east to check out some of Devon. 

It was odd sleeping in a single bed last night. It's been along time. But this guest house is very comfortable and it was lovely to have a home style breakfast this morning. 

I managed to get out by 8:30am which gave me plenty of time to get on the 9:10am train to Penzance. As I walked to the station I heard the bird call from Kate Bush's album Aerial. It was note perfect! 

I bought the 1 day Ride Cornwall ticket which allowed me to travel on as many trains and busses in Cornwall as I like in 24h for £10. I definitely got my money's worth today.

As I was waiting for the train I couldn't help notice all the locals in their t-shirts and shorts while I was rugged up in jeans, t-shirt, jumper and jacket. 

The journey down there took about 2.5h but was full of interesting and beautiful scenery. These rows upon rows of houses as we left Plymouth were so striking. 

Then it was into the open countryside dotted with towns and rivers.

This scene caught my attention with multiple generations of industry. 

And of course we passed many stations. 

Then more rivers and inlets. 

When we reached Penzance it was clear that the tide was out. 

I wandered around. It's quite a grey looking town but you can just feel the history of it. 

The weather was very blustery and there were numerous flocks of seagulls circling around. 

I stopped at a little caravan cafe on the foreshore for a ginger beer scone with lime curd and coffee. 

After wandering around some more I made it back to the train station to catch the train back to St Erth. From there I took a short train trip to St Ives.  

As the train came around the corner and St Ives came in to view my breath was a little taken away. It looks so pretty even with the tide out. I can't imagine what it looks like when the tide is in. 

All around St Ives are some very un-English-y sandy beaches. 

I wandered along the promenade. There were so many people out and about. Must get crazy here in summer. I stopped for a Cornish pasty (naturally) which I devoured looking out to sea. This guy was hoping for a bit but it was too good to share. 

I finished off by wandering through the back streets and checking out some of the many galleries. 

By the time I got back to Plymouth it was dinner time so I regrouped and headed out to the area where most of the restaurants are. I'm not so good at solo dining but I was determined to get out there and overcome my fears. Good news is I had a great meal and nobody died.