Posts tagged London
22.11 Parks and Squirrels

0545 It was another really great sleep. I’m glad I’ve gotten over the waking up. Outside there’s light cloud and it’s crisp.

0653 Breakfast.

It’s my last day in England. As usual, it feels weird with so many emotions.

On one hand: I feel satisfied. I’ve had a brilliant holiday. But I miss Em. I miss my yoga classes. I’m a little over living in hotels. The holiday has been a real thought incubator and I’m keen to work through some future plan ideas. And I have another overseas holiday coming up in just 33 days. I’m ready to go home.

On the other hand: I love this place. I wish I didn’t have to leave. I don’t really want to leave. And I don’t want to go home to summer.

0830 I head out with my camera. The cloud cover is thicker and it’s misty. There’s a new building in London I had hoped to photograph but it’s so misty that my idea is not going to work. Instead I slowly make my way to St James’ Park. It’s cold. Although I’ve been out in lower temperatures, for some reason it’s getting to me today. I rug up with hat and scarf. I’d wear my gloves if I’d brought them with me!

St James’ Park is beautiful. Yet another painting in autumn colours. And very quickly I notice the squirrels. They’re everywhere and they’re super active. I spend some time on the hunt for good photos. A couple stare me down and I have to back off.

1030 I continue on to Hyde Park. Also beautiful, but more open. I move on to Kensington Gardens before looping back again.

1230 I stop for fish and chips at the Serpentine Bar & Kitchen in Hyde Park. Just right.

I’m still feeling quite emotional when I think about my pending departure. I try to soak up every last sense of being there.

1300 What now? I’ve done enough and would be happy to relax back in the warm hotel. But part of me sees that as a waste. But the reality is I feel I’m done for now.

1310 I slowly head back. It feels even colder now. I savour it.

1330 I catch the Jubilee line from Green Park to Waterloo.

1340 I arrive at Waterloo for the last time.

Today I carried my tripod with me but I didn’t need to use it. I haven’t taken it with me many times because I couldn’t find a convenient way of carrying it. If I just clip it to my bag it swings around. If I just carry it over my shoulder it keeps feeling like it will drop off. Finally today I realise that if I clip it to my bag AND carry it over my shoulder it‘s just right. A bit late maybe. I‘ll keep it in mind for my next trip.

1400 I‘m back in the hotel. I need to re-pack now to check that everything is going to fit. If not, I‘ll still have time to head out and get another bag.

1450 I‘ve re-packed and everything seems to fit OK. I spend some time looking at my photos from the day.

1550 I‘m relaxing in front of the TV. I head off very early in the morning, so it will be an early night to bed tonight.

21.11 Art and Religion

0530 I’ve had another really good sleep. The rain has eased. It’s very cold outside though.

0630 Breakfast. The scrambled eggs are particularly creamy and delicious this morning.

My first destination doesn’t open until 1000 so I relax in the hotel, watching morning TV on the BBC and sorting through photos.

0930 I head towards Tate Modern along Blackfriars Road. When I glance down streets to my right I see glimpses of the Shard. On my left I see glimpses of the London Eye. I love that.

I’m feeling quite relaxed again. I think it’s because I’ve needed to slow down.

1000 I get to Tate Modern at opening time. I spend a few hours wandering around. There are a few highlights:

Christian Marclay: The Clock. “A mesmerising 24-hour film masterpiece of contemporary art. Thousands of film and television images of clocks edited together to show the actual time in a thrilling journey through cinematic history.” The description doesn’t really explain the film. It’s not just images of clocks but the scenes in which the clocks feature are masterfully sewn together to create a montage that feels surprisingly coherent. It certainly is mesmerising. I only stay for an hour, but could easily stay much longer.

Magic Realism: Art in Weimar Germany 1919-33. Here I see a still life oil painting called Flower Still Life with Playing Card (Blumenstilleben mit Spielkarte) by Josef Mangold. There is something about the preciseness of it that I really like.

A View From Zagreb: Op and Kinetic Art. This is a room of artworks based on optical effects, geometry and movement.

1130 I stop for a pastry and coffee.

I notice a man with “Heute Nicht” in big letters printed on his coat. “Not Today”, I get a little buzz that I can translate it.

1240 I leave after spending some time in the Tate shop. There’s lots of blue sky now. As a contrast, second on my list for the day is entry into St Paul’s Cathedral. Despite all my visits to London, I have never been in there. Today visitor hours begin at 1300. On my way there I pass through the small garden where I distinctly remember sitting with Emily on our visit in 2010. It brings back lovely memories.

1300 After waiting 10 min I make my way in. Crikey! It’s more spectacular inside than I had expected. Unfortunately, I’m not allowed to take photos. The amount of gold adornment is impressive, if almost obscene. I wander slowly around and walk up to the whispering gallery. I briefly step outside with a great view of the city skyline. There’s also a digital artwork: Martyrs (Earth, Air, Fire, Water) by Bill Viola that I find quite disturbing.

1400 I make my way to Covent Garden. I wander the Apple Market which consists of handmade artisan items. There are some really nice things and I have to seriously question whether or not to make a purchase. I choose not to.

1445 I had a sandwich at St Paul’s but I’m still feeling peckish. I pass the “Pie Shop” and pop in for a steak and stout pie with mash.

I’m on the lookout for some desert and I notice a stall selling mulled wine and sweet treats. I settle on mulled wine with a mince pie. Very festive.

1530 I walk back to the hotel.

20.11 I’m Shopping in the Rain

0520 I slept much better last night.

0630 Breakfast time.

0730 I spend some time copying my blogs back to OneNote so I can start editing the text for the book of this trip.

The trouble with being an early bird is having to wait for the rest of the world to get up. I fluff around until I think the shops will be open. Today is going to be a browsing and shopping day. No backpack, no big camera and (almost) no itinerary.

0850 I head out walking towards Covent Garden. Walking across Waterloo Bridge the wind is bitterly cold and it’s spotting rain. I had thought of bringing my umbrella but it would have been no help anyway.

0915 I get to Covent Garden but most things are still setting up. I look in a bookstore for a while then decide to head to the other end of my general plan with the intention of working back instead. I notice that all the Christmas lights are still on, even during the day. Admittedly, today is so dull, you almost need them!

1001 I catch the Piccadilly line from Covent Garden to Gloucester Road.

1012 I arrive Gloucester Road. I’m here to visit the European Bookshop. I’m on the hunt for German language books that might be helpful. I find a couple to buy.

1100 I stop for a pastry and coffee. Yum!

1115 I catch the Piccadilly line from Gloucester Road back to Knightsbridge. It’s still drizzling.

1123 I pop into Harrods for a while. I’ve been there before but thought it might be nice to browse. There’s lots to see but the store is way too confusing to navigate around for my liking.

1209 From the Knightsbridge station I catch the Piccadilly line to Green Park.

1216 From Green Park I catch the Victoria line to Oxford Circus. I’m heading to Oxford street.

1219 I arrive Oxford Circus and make my way up to Oxford Street.

I wander in a few of the bigger stores. Selfridges has the most spectacular interior Christmas lighting with massive moving mirror balls. Even John Lewis has an impressive display of lights in the escalator area that’s reminiscent of falling snow. I buy a couple of things.

1420 It’s raining more heavily now. I find a nearby Pret-a-Manger (very easy to do in London) and settle for a “Christmas lunch” sandwich with turkey, stuffing and other goodies. I grab a Bakewell slice too; it’s SO good - better than the slice I had in Bakewell!

I head back to find a store that stocks something I want to get for mum. The rain is persistent now but my coat gives me enough protection.

I head back to Piccadilly Circus station. Should I return to Covent Garden or head back to the hotel? The tube will take me direct to Waterloo station and I’m a little over the rain, so that’s my choice.

1530 I catch the Bakerloo line from Piccadilly Circus.

1540 I arrive Waterlook station and make my way back to the hotel. Luckily there’s a break in the rain.

1550 Back in the warm, dry hotel.

1600 Time to head down to the lounge for a cocktail (vodka martini) while I work on my blog.

1830 Another nice and quiet evening.  I had thoughts of heading out to do some night time photography using the water on the ground for reflections, but it’s nice and warm inside and I can’t muster the enthusiasm.

19.11 Hampstead Heath and The Regent’s Park

0100 I’ve been waking on the hour. This time I glance outside and notice the moon hovering over the skyline. “That would make a great pic”, I think. But I shouldn’t bother now. I need to sleep. Oh, why not. I get my tripod out and have a go. It doesn’t capture the feel but at least I tried. I read a bit, then try to get back to sleep.

0500 I awake as usual. Despite a poor night I will do my usual routine. I’d like to get to breakfast early so I can check it out when it’s quiet. Tomorrow I might try to sleep in if I haven’t slept so well again. I look out the window; London is already getting busy again.

0630 I go down to breakfast. It’s the most diverse and extensive buffet I’ve seen.

H10 is a Spanish hotel chain and seems to cater for Spanish speaking travellers. I noticed lots of Spanish speakers out last night, so I assume it’s a big market.

In the last few days I’ve felt a little travel fatigued (#firstworldproblems) but being in London and also reflecting on this holiday has reinvigorated me.

0700 It’s cloudy as the sun rises. I work on my blog from yesterday.

0800 Time to do some planning and look up timetables.

I’ve just realised that if I look out to the far right of my window I can see the London Eye.

0910 I head out. The weather today is forecast to be partly clear with rain periods. I decide to do outside things while I can. I think the rain will get heavier as the week progresses. My plan is to head to Hampstead Heath first. I’ve been there before but would like to see it in Autumn. I’ll then make my way back through the key London parks.

0924 I catch the 168 bus to Hampstead Heath from Waterloo Road. I don’t think I’ve caught a London bus before, so I choose this over the tube.

1015 The bus gets to Hampstead Heath. I make my way to the park. No sooner do I get there that the wind whips up and showers start. I need to put my good camera away and use my iPhone at first. I walk around, visiting Parliament Hill, looking for photo opportunities and enjoying the surroundings. There are showers, sunny periods and icy wind blasts. Many people are walking in the park, most with dogs.

1200 Time to move on. I’ve made my way to Hampstead underground station. I catch the Northern line to Euston.

1210 The train gets to Euston. I find my way to The Regent’s Park. Again, there are showers and sunny periods. I wander around most of the Park. I don’t think I’ve been here before. It’s larger than I realised, with lots of sections, walks and gardens.

1400 I’ve walked a lot and I’m getting tired. Time for a rest. I stop at a café in the park. I have a piece of beetroot chocolate cake and a coffee. The cake is delicious!

1430 I had planned to visit a couple of other parks but I’m worn out. I make my way to Baker Street underground station and catch the Bakerloo line back to Waterloo.

1445 I get back to Waterloo station and walk back to the hotel.

1500 Back in the hotel, I change and sit in the bar/lounge downstairs as I go through my photos.

1530 A heavy but brief downpour.

1700 A quiet night as usual. 

18.11 Portsmouth to London (or dizzying heights to bright lights)

0530 I was in bed ultra early, exhausted from the walk. I’m feeling OK now, but ready for breakfast; I didn’t have dinner last night. Outside the sky is perfectly clear. Excellent for what I have planned this morning.

0630 There’s only one other strange person at breakfast this early on a Sunday morning.

0700 I work on yesterday’s blog.

0740 It looks so good outside. Undoubtedly, it’s cold, but after a few cloudy days the clear sky is so enticing. I decide to wander out to experience it and take some photos. It is bracing, but I love that. And it’s so tranquil to walk around the harbour at this time of the morning with no-one around. The sea is just ever so gently heaving from edge to edge.

0815 Time to start re-packing.

0840 Re-packing done. The suitcases are getting harder to pack and heavier to lift!

I notice some comments on my blog. Thank you everyone who has interacted with me. It’s somewhat of a “1st world problem”, but I do get a little lonely at times on the road and these comments and interactions are lovely and very much appreciated.

0915 Time to check-out. I wander to the harbour to wait until my booking for the Spinnaker Tower. I notice my waistline. I don’t think I’ve put on any weight yet. I haven’t gone overboard with food and I’ve definitely kept my activity levels up.

0930 It’s a beautiful clear crisp day. It’s lovely just to sit by the harbour and notice the city wake up.

1000 I have a booking to go up to the observation deck on the Spinnaker Tower. It’s a spectacular view and the weather couldn’t be more perfect for it. I can clearly see to The Isle of Wight and all around Portsmouth. There’s even a little “sky garden” one level up.

1040 I’m back on the ground. I don’t want to head to London too early because check-in isn’t until 1500 I’ve already done most of the maritime museum attractions which had originally been on my plan for today. There’s one thing left, to go across the harbour to see a submarine but I don’t really feel like it. I sit quietly by the harbour again for a while.

1100 On my way reluctantly back to the hotel, I notice a sign for harbour tours and the next one departs at 1115. Sounds like a great idea. I get a ticket and get onboard.

1115 The tour just takes us around the docks and includes a good commentary on the ships that are in harbour today.

1210 We get back to the quay and I go back to the hotel for my bags. I then make my way to the train station. There’s a London train waiting already.

1232 I’m on the South Western Railways service to London Waterloo. We depart calling at (deep breath) Fratton, Havant, Petersfield, Haslemere, Goldaming, Guildford, Woking, West Byfleet, Byfleet & New Haw, Addlestone, Chertsey, Virginia Water, Staines, Clapham Junction and London Waterloo. I have a first class ticket and it’s worth it to get a nice seat and a quiet carriage.

1340 It’s a long journey and luckily there’s a trolley service onboard. I get a sandwich for lunch.

1456 We arrive in London. Google tells me it should only be an 8 minute walk tot the hotel. I start walking down Waterloo Road and the buildings aren’t looking all that flash. I hope the hotel’s not too far out the way. But soon I get there and everything is fine. The hotel looks very new.

1515 I check-in.

1600 After freshening up I head out again. It’s still clear and my weather app tells me that won’t last this week. I decide tonight will be the best for finding Christmas lights in the city. I walk into the centre of London, heading towards Covent Garden. I stop along the way to grab something to eat so I don’t have to worry about it later.

1700 By the time I get to Covent Garden market the sun has gone down and it’s dark. The lights in the market are beautiful and there are people everywhere. I slowly follow the crowds along streets, discovering little pockets of lights and massive displays in the streets leading into Piccadilly Circus. I’m not sure if everyone else was doing the same thing, but it certainly seems as if people were there for the lights. It feels so late but I keep reminding myself how early it still is.

On my way back I drop into “Christmas in Leicester Square”. It’s a mini-Christmas market. I’m glad I get to experience one of these. As expected, it’s nothing exceptional but it still has an air of Christmas magic about it. I get myself a mulled wine to wander around and take in the atmosphere. Back home I’m not a big fan of the hot Australian Christmas, but here I feel I could get into it. It feels more authentic, maybe even familiar from my early childhood?

1800 It’s still quite early but I’ve seen enough. I catch the tube from Charing Cross to Waterloo and then walk back to the hotel.

1830 I’m done for the day. I look through my photos. I’m not so happy with the Christmas light photos; they didn’t catch the magic. But I guess that will be difficult. I did take some video that gives a hint. I watch some TV before bed.s

I took a little bit of video. Make sure you watch it at the highest resolution. 

02.11 Doha to London to Manchester

0200 (ADELAIDE TIME) Time for bed. The first 3 hours I sleep quite deeply for an hour at a time. After that it gets bumpy and I’m just drifting on the edge of sleep. At times it’s REALLY bumpy; strap in! Generally the cabin temperature is good. Cool. I can crank up my air vent if I want and this is good for sleeping.

0800 For the last hour of rest I listen to my iPod. I bought lots of music before I left and it’s nice to lay quietly and discover. Albums include Singularity (Jon Hopkins), Soyuz (Gazpacho), Colour Bomb (Colour Bomb), In a Desperate Moment (The Kite String Tangle), re:member (Olafur Arnolds), Boy Afraid (Saro).

0900 Time for some breakfast. I would have held off a bit longer but most of the other passengers are starting to eat and the aroma is too tempting. I don’t want too much and settle for apple and ginger juice followed by scrambled eggs and crushed avocado. The food on this flight has been outstanding; the best airline food I’ve had.

I look at the flight tracker and get another little buzz.

The flight has onboard WiFi so I get the complimentary 30 min. The connection is quite good and I get my updates and email. The bank has put a hold on one of my credit cards due to a transaction. Luckily its not one of the cards I’m travelling with and it’s a legitimate transaction. I will sort it out when I get to Doha.

0950 After brushing my teeth and freshening up, I sit back to listen to more of my new music. I feel VERY relaxed.

1114 The lights come on and we commence our descent. The flight attendant who took care of me for most of the flight was so delightful. She was just very friendly without being intrusive.

0420 (DOHA TIME) We land in Doha and it’s still dark. The airport is huge and nicer than I remember. I SO want to take some photos but dare not here. Doesn’t feel right. It’s 24 degrees but it must be humid because I’m sweating already. I wander around the duty free. On the plane I saw an ad for noise cancelling ear plugs. Sounds like a great idea but I don’t find any.

There’s a really mesmerising massive digital artwork on one of the walls. People walking towards and then away from the viewer and disappearing into the desert haze.

0450 I make my way to the business lounge.

0509 I call the bank to sort out my credit card. They don’t have a record of my UK trip either. Might be my mistake but I’m glad I fixed it in case they do the same to any of the cards I DO need.

0550 I’m feeling hungry again. I guess breakfast was a few hours ago. There is a dining area but I don’t want a full blown meal. I wander around and discover there are stations with various treats around the lounge. I find some savoury treats followed by mini pastries and a coffee. That’s enough to fill the gap.

0644 The lounge was almost deserted when I arrived. Now it’s light, there are people everywhere.

0745 Time to go to the departure gate.

0818 Flight QR7, B777-300ER, Seat 1K. I’m on board. This plane is fitted with Q-Suites. Every seat is essentially a mini-suite, with door. Fancy! So much room and storage. Because of the configuration, I‘m sitting backward. It feels a little odd. We‘re delayed on the tarmac due to air traffic.

0910 Departed. The developments we pass over on the way out are spectacular. So much luxury construction.

I‘m feeling a little tired but still quite fresh.

0930 I watch a movie; “The Shape of Water”. The main meal on this flight is breakfast. What the heck; I order carrot juice, Greek yoghurt with granola and scrambled eggs with chicken skewer.

1030 Flying over some very dramatic and barren landscape. We fly over a circular city; I think it is Erbil. It looks unusually shaped in its context.

1130 We‘re crossing over the border into Turkey.

1140 I try to get some more sleep.

1300 I wake up! I managed to get to sleep quite easily and slept very solidly. I could probably sleep longer but feel refreshed enough and want to keep retraining my body clock. I ask for a coffee. It comes with some delicious stem ginger cookies.

1310 We‘re flying over Bucharest. There is quite thick cloud with occasional clear patches.

1330 I take advantage of the quiet in the cabin to go freshen up and change my t-shirt; avoid the landing rush.

1350 All the flight it‘s been really smooth. Now, over Hungary, it suddenly gets really bumpy.

1415 The cloud briefly clears over the Czech Republic.

1437 It’s clearer over Germany. We fly over Coburg.

1510 I get excited as I catch my first glimpse of the English Channel.

1540 We’re tracking the Thames inland. From my calculation, London will be on the left side of the plane but I’m sitting on the right. Then we change direction and before I know it we’re flying slowly right over the centre of the city. The plane banks at just the right time to see everything. It’s a clear day and the view is amazing!

1250 (UK TIME) We’ve landed. I’ve been to London many times and this one of the first it hasn’t been drizzling on arrival.

1315 I make my way to border control. The UK passport queue is empty and I go through the electronic gates just like a local. Cool. Of course, my fellow business class passengers get to luggage at the same time thanks to their fast track passes, but it’s the principle!

1330 I need to catch the train to terminal 2 so I can catch the Heathrow Express. The next one is 18 min away.

1404 I’m on the Heathrow Express. Next stop London.

1416 I arrive at Paddington station and need to catch the tube to get to Euston. First the Bakerloo line (southbound) to Oxford Circus, then the Victoria line (northbound) to Euston. I had been nervous that it might be tricky changing trains with all my luggage but it all goes pretty smoothly with only a couple of stairs.

I instantly recognise all the sights and sounds of the underground and the trains. Aside from the “city” smells, there’s a distinct smell to the trains here.

1440 I get to Euston in plenty of time for my train to Manchester. There’s a lounge where I can get a drink and snack while I wait.

1600 We depart for Manchester. Nearly there now and I can fully relax. You’ve done well Ian.

1815 The train arrives in Manchester. I was starting to vague out by the end of the trip. The hotel is within sight of the train station so I walk. There are lots of people out. It’s dark but still early. Tonight is just a bed to recover before continuing to my final destination tomorrow morning. I think I’ll head to bed super early, after a lovely shower.

London to Doha

My flight was at 9:15am. As I don't like risking a missed flight I intended to get there early. I had set my alarm for 5:30am but was already awake at 5:00am. That was actually nice because it gave me a little time to enjoy the London skyline for one last time. It was a beautiful clear morning. 

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A little while after taking that shot I noticed a hot air baloon gracefully floating across the city. I also managed to get a better shot to give a sense of just how magnificent the view appears in the context of the room. 

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When I spoke to the doorman last night about booking a taxi he gave me a tip that there are treats on the reception level in the morning for people who need to head out before breakfast is served. He was right. I grabbed myself a yummy muesli slice which kept me going until I got to the airport.

I decided to only get a taxi to Paddington Station and then catch the Heathrow Express from there. I figured it would be the quickest route and it was. It nearly took 1/2 hour to get to Paddington but then it was only 15min train journey to the airport. 

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After check-in I was able to go through the fast track security before heading to the Qatar lounge. They were serving breakfast.

We boarded only a little late but the plane stayed at the gate for a while due to traffic in the airport. We finished up leaving about 1/2 hour late but made most of that up. 

Since I'd only just had breakfast I decided not to have anything straight away on the plan. Because of their dine any time service I could choose to have something a bit later. 

The sky was clear over England and later of Europe. That's new for me. I think the last trip was cloudy all the way. 

As usual there was a little sadness as we crossed the English Channel but not as much as last year. Maybe I'm just getting used to this relationship I have formed with my homeland. 

I spent quite a bit of time sorting through my photos. Not only did it pass the time very well, but it was a great way to reminisce. 

A couple of hours into the flight I decided to have some lunch. 

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I chose the goat's cheese salad followed by the chicken kapsa. Both were delicious and filling.  I decided to leave dessert for later.

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After a nice meal like that (and a couple of champagnes after take off) I was sleepy and had a nap for an hour.  Then it was dessert time. I had the cheesecake followed by a nice chai (but forgot to take a photo). 

After some more photo sorting it was time to descend. The flight was 6.5 hours long but it went incredibly quickly. I have a couple of hours before the flight to Adelaide so I'm sitting in the lounge in Doha. The lounge is massive with different areas. I'm in the "blue" area. 

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It's funny, but only a couple of weeks into my holiday it had felt like I had been in the UK for ages. The last week in particular seemed like a lifetime away from Adelaide. Then the moment I stepped on the plane and into the familiarity of my seat it seemed like the holiday had all happened in an instant.

But I know differently and will hold onto that feeling of drawn out absence for as long as I possibly can.

Final day in the UK

I went to bed late last night after all my night time photography shenanigans. Of course, that didn't mean my body would allow me to sleep in this morning. Still, I took my time getting ready as there were only a couple of things on my list for this final day. 

After much fluffing around I headed towards Oxford street going along the river bank as far as I could. I've seen the growth on this bridge before and it amazes me how it survives.

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The tide was out and I wondered where each of these fragments would have originated from. 

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The pedestrian crossing lights in Trafalgar Square now have a variety of different inclusive symbols instead of the traditional green man. I saw just about every combination you could imagine. This was just one. 

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Near Oxford street is the Photographer's Gallery. Unfortunately, it was smaller than I had expected/hoped, but it was still interesting and I particularly liked an exhibition by Sophie Calle. I bought a couple of books from their book shop afterwards.

Following the gallery I slowly made my way back to the Thames. I popped through Carnaby Street to do a little bit of shopping.

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Then I made my way back along the bank, stopping a couple of times for a drink and to soak up the atmosphere. I should have made more time for this and will remember for the future.  I passed a guy who was making huge bubbles for the crowd. I tried to capture some with my camera but it wasn't easy.

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When I got back to the hotel it was time to pack before going out. Last night an advert for a play at the Battersea Arts Centre just happened to pop up in my Facebook feed and the first night just happened to be tonight so I though "why not". I caught the Northern Line from London Bridge to Clapham South and then walked about 20min to the theatre.

The play was fantastic. Really smart and ingenious in the way that they use light to allow them to change quickly back and forth between scenes. Here's a link if you're interested in knowing more. 

https://www.bac.org.uk/events/21989/view

I got back to the hotel by about 9:30pm. I will try to get to bed soon. I need to be up early in the morning so I can get to the airport in plenty of time. My flight departs at 9:15am. I will be a bit sad to leave, but I'm also very ready to go home. 

Even more London

My original plan had been to do some day trips out of London but I've decided to make the most of being here and stick to city activities. I've had plenty of time to explore further afield during this holiday. Today's main activity was to catch up with a friend. That was scheduled for 1:00pm so I had time for some other things.

A place I wanted to visit was Leadenhall Market. I've seen photos and it looks quite ornate. It looked as I expected, but was quite small - more like an arcade. 

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My next task was to buy a small suitcase. I haven't bought a lot but my case was packed full before I left and I've run out of room. I needed a second small case to split the contents. I caught the Central Line from Bank to Tottenham Court so I could have a look down Oxford Street. To my surprise, luggage shops were scarce and I found myself back at Muji before long. The other day I had seen a nice case there so it seemed like a sign. From there I headed back to the hotel to change before meeting Andy. 

We arranged to meet at Waterloo Station (sounds quite poetic). After some confusion over which entrance to meet at, we located each other and walked to Lower Marsh. After grabbing some lunch it was nice to spend a couple of hours wandering around the city and catching up. These looked a bit like high density housing for the local bird population.

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Andy was on night shift and need to grab some sleep so we parted mid afternoon. I took the tube back to the hotel from Southwark station. I noticed the massive patterned wall in the station which also acted a bit like a mirror.

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I tried to have a nap too as my final plan for the day was to head out with my camera in the evening. The nap didn't really work out.

I headed out around 7:30pm. Although it was still very light, it was a good light and perfect when the sun came out from behind the clouds to illuminate the western facing surfaces of buildings and bridges. I walked all the way down to the Houses of Parliament before stopping for some dinner and working my way back.

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At this part of the river and at this level, the Thames looked so wide. 

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The shapes of the roofs of this building reminded me of Disneyland. 

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There is a large construction site near the London Eye.  I wondered, what would be the right collective noun? Maybe "a lifting of cranes"?

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There was so much activity all along Southbank. This shot was taken around 9:30pm with people relaxing in chairs on the bank. It was a bit cool but no one seemed bothered. 

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As the sun went down I took shots of this skyline from various locations. 

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The cloud looming above St Paul's looked ominous.

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In the end I was moderately happy with the results of my nighttime photography. I learnt a few things along the way that I would do differently and discovered that there were still limitations to what I would be able to do. Hopefully I will keep practicing so I can focus less on the technique and more on finding interesting scenes. 

By the time I got back to the hotel it was about 11:00pm and still there were lots of couples and groups of people around me all the way back. It felt very safe. 

Tate Modern

Because the weather was supposed to be a bit dodgy today I decided it was a gallery day. I had two lined up that I'd like to visit. 

First off was Tate Modern which is only about 10min walk from the hotel. I've been a number of times before but not since the new extension was finished. I left the hotel around 10:30am. Since it was so close I decided to travel without bags or camera. I'm not a big fan of taking hi-res photos in a gallery and it was quite liberating to travel so lightly for a change. 

In the end I spent nearly 5 hours in the gallery and didn't make it to my second choice. But that's in no way a complaint.

I took this shot of a work in one of the free collections. It contained intricate mirrors that distorted and combined images from different sides of the cube.  Quite freaky.

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I really enjoyed my time at the gallery and there were 2 highlights.

First was an exhibition of works by Wolfgang Tillmans. He is known for his photographs of everyday life and contemporary culture and for his pioneering method of displaying prints as whole-room installations. 

But the standout for me was a work by Janet Cardiff.  The following blurb and cheeky shots explain the premise better than I could.

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Aside from the beauty of the piece itself, you had the added experience of being able to walk around and as you pass a speaker you could clearly hear just that person's voice. It's if you were able to weave in and out and in between the members of choir getting right up close. In that way it was incredibly intimate and personal. And as singers came in and out with their parts you might be startled when a voice suddenly booms from the speaker next to you. They even recorded the chit chat from the singers before the performance began which again added to the intimacy. I found the who experience very emotional and I listened to the entire performance at the start of my visit and again before I left.  I did feel a little sorry for the people who chose just to listen in the middle. Although they got an awesome surround sound experience, they would have missed the close up experience.

At the very end of my visit I decided to pop up to the 10th floor where there is an observation deck. As soon as the lift doors opened I realised I wanted my camera. The deck gives you a fantastic 360 view of the city at city level. Why did I not know about this? As the gallery would still be open for two more hours I decided to go back to the hotel and get my camera.  

I finished up taking a series of shots I hope I will be able to stitch into some type of panorama.  Here's just one.

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The building itself was interesting too and I took a few shots of the interior. 

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I had some dinner on the way back to the hotel as well as taking a few pictures along the Thames. At river level the Millennium Bridge looked a bit like a conveyor belt feeding people into St Paul's.

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I might try some night time street photography tonight if the weather holds out. If not, I have two more nights to go and the weather is forecast to improve. 

Completely unrelated, I noticed this when looking out of my room this morning. Can't get much closer to the rail line than that. 

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More London

As you would hope in a hotel like this, I slept really well. The blinds are amazing and when they're down you would have no idea what time it is. Which is just as well since the sun was already rising when I peeked out at 4:30am this morning. I stayed in bed until 7:30am but I'm still feeling very tired.  

I headed down to breakfast overlooking the city. The sun was bright and warm through the windows. People were remarking on the weather so I assume it's not been so good lately. 

I was undecided on what to do today. My original plan had been to visit the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. They have a great collection of planes and it's been on my "to do" list for sometime. Luckily I checked their website because there was an air show on this weekend. That didn't appeal to me for two reasons: 1) it would be super busy, 2) I get a bit freaked out even when they do the fly pass for the Clipsal 500 so I don't think I'd enjoy it. I will leave it until later this week or save for another trip. 

In the end I decided to do a bit of retail therapy. I'm running short on a few clothes. I looked into using the hotel laundry service but realised it would almost cost the same to buy new items. I don't mind spending the money on the laundry service, but if I can get some new things for the same price then I may as well. Arriving in the hotel last night I also noticed the city lights and thought it might be fun to try some nighttime photography. The monopod I brought is OK, but it's not going to keep the camera still enough for long exposure shots. So my plan was also to either buy an extremely lightweight tripod or a cheap one I can afford to leave here. 

I wandered towards Oxford street. The city was quite busy with lots of tourists. The tide was way out on the Thames. As I've noticed on other occasions there were people fossicking around the banks. 

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From this point, on the Millenium Bridge, I could also get a good shot of The Shard. By my calculations, my room is somewhere around the red dot. 

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Oxford Street was very busy. For a long time I was indecisive but finally dived in and found a few things I liked. I popped into the Muji store and spent a while trying to dream up legitimate uses for the array of perfect boxes and containers. And finally, I found a camera store with a great tripod that folds into a very compact size but still has good stability. 

By this time it was starting to rain so I decided to catch the tube back. I caught the Central Line from Tottenham Court to Bank and then the Northern Line from Bank to London Bridge. From there it's a couple of minutes walk to The Shard. 

By this time it was nearly 5:00pm so I fluffed around for a bit and played with my new tripod. I had also originally planned to go to Horse Meat Disco tonight. I've been a couple of times on previous visits and have always really enjoyed it. But last night the rain looked as if it had set in and I was feeling tired and introspective. I decided against it.

I ordered some room service dinner to avoid having to sit in a restaurant alone. The view could be my company. Of course, it didn't just arrive on a tray, did it. 

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After dinner I had a brief feeling of revitalisation and reconsidered going to HMD. It didn't last long though. Instead I utilised my new equipment to get some better quality night shots of London. With the new tripod I was able to take photos with less noise and sharper focus. I'm very happy with the results and will try to get out to do some at street level Monday or Tuesday night. 

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London

I'm finishing my holiday in London because ... it's London. My favourite city. I'm not sure what I'm going to do here. I'm feeling quite exhausted from my adventures, so I might just take advantage of the luxury of my final hotel and just relax.

Speaking of which, when I was looking for London accommodation I had two considerations. Firstly, most of the other accommodation I had secured for the holiday had come in under budget which meant I could spend extra in London. Secondly, all of my previous stays in London have been in relatively modest apartments or hotels with little or no view and very little space. I thought it was time to stay somewhere nicer. When the Shangi-La at The Shard first popped up on Booking.com I giggled to myself and whispered "as if". But then the more I thought about it, the more I couldn't resist the temptation. The appeal was less about the luxury of the hotel and all about the views. I selected a mid price room which would give me a view to the east, missing the major landmarks but still spectacular. To my delight, when I checked in last night they had upgraded me to a north facing room with the perfect view from the Houses of Parliament on the left to St Paul's on the right and the Thames slap bang in the middle. Could not ask for a better view.

I got to the hotel about 9:30pm after catching a taxi from London Kings Cross station. The check-in process was easy and I was personally escorted to my room on the 40th floor. The room is even larger than I had expected. The bathroom alone is nearly bigger than the entire room in the final hotel of my last holiday here! And there are lots of nice touches, like a set of binoculars to check out the sights, a Nespresso machine for the early morning coffee, electronic blinds that do a magnificent job of blocking out the early morning sun (it was light at 4:30am this morning), and even a TV built into the mirror in the bathroom.  

But the main attraction is the view. I could just sit an gaze out the window all day and night. The photos just don't give you the full floor to ceiling panoramic effect of the view.

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Au revoir

I don't think I've ever felt this sad to catch a plane. Usually, by the end of a holiday I'm ready to come home. To return to the comfort and familiarity of home, the routine of work, the company of family and friends. This time I'm not ready. Not at all.

My flight leaves Heathrow at 11:25am. I decided to get to the airport as early as possible and then relax there. I'll be able to use the Singapore Airlines lounge. I woke at my usual 5:00 and had my coffee while reading the social media feeds. Because the hotel is so close to the Picadilly line it made sense just to catch the underground. I was on the train by 7:00. The last carriage was only half full.

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Getting out at Terminal 2. 

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The check in and security processes were quite quick. Walking to the gates and lounges however, seemed to take forever. But I'm here now. I had a good breakfast and now it's just a matter of waiting. 

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Looking back, I made a list (of course): 

  • 36 days (38 by the time I get home) 
  • 7000+ photos
  • 7 flight legs
  • 7 intercity train journeys
  • 11 hotels/apartments
  • 0 delays
  • 0 cancellations
  • 0 booking stuff ups
  • +10 kilos of books and other purchases
  • +2-3 kilos of me (too many full English breakfasts, morning teas and pints)
  • Countless memories

Au revoir England. See you again very soon, I hope. ❤️

Last day

Today was my last full day in England (insert sad face, mournful violins and distant sobbing sounds). The weather was overcast. I had originally planned to visit the Imperial War Museum as Duxford but my friend Jerome suggested I might enjoy Hampstead Heath so I headed there instead. I took the tube (2 lines) to Hampstead. From there it was just a short walk through some lovely streets. 

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When I reached Hampstead Heath my first task was to find Parliament Hill. Jerome said you get great views of the city. He was right.  Epic!

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From there I wandered around the Heath. It's essentially a large park but with a really natural feel and right on London's doorstep. 

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After about an hour of walking I was feeling tired and decided to head back. By the tube station I noticed this telephone box cafe.  

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And there was a really cute walk off the Main Street. 

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Though, this was a little out of place. 

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Shortly I'll start the task of packing my bags. I've bought quite a lot so there will be much reorganisation. Lucky I have a generous allowance on my flights.  

Its been an amazing holiday! I feel like I've been away for ages - months - and I've seen so much. I'm not ready to come home but I know I have to. If I could, I would move here without hesitation. But I know that's not possible. So I plan to keep coming back and exploring until I can get it out of my system. I've already started working on next year's trip! 

Trying not to think about it

Last night I caught up with friends Emma and Sibs for dinner at a Peruvian restaurant in Shoreditch. It was great to see them and the food was fantastic. On my way to the restaurant I spotted this building and had to take a snap. I think the way they've played with perspective is brilliant! 

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Last night wasn't late, but after Sunday night's effort it was still difficult getting myself activated this morning. I only had some very vague plans for the day so I headed towards the Thames. The walk took me through Chelsea and then along the Thames until the Houses of Parliament. I don't remember walking along that part of the Thames before.  

It was a perfectly clear morning and the browns and reds of bricks and tiles against the vivid blue sky looked stunning.

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I passed this bike slowly being digested by the undergrowth.

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The tide was exceptionally low on the Thames with many boats beached along the shores. 

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The walk along the embankment took me a couple of hours but it was nice to stroll and take photos of things as they caught my eye.

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I spent a little bit of time sitting in one of the parks along side the Thames. Luckily, I don't think I broke any of these rules. 

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At one stage there were two very large and very loud black army helicopters hovering over part of the city. I haven't seen anything that beefy over the city before and it was a little unnerving

Eventually I made it to Covent Garden. I wanted to get a print I'd seen at the start of my trip and to visit the London Transport Museum. When I first arrived I went to the open day at the London Transport Museum depot not realising that there was actually a museum in the city. So today I checked it out. Understandably, it was teeming with school kids so navigating around was a little tricky. But worth it all the same. 

This is the inside of one of the older tube trains. Very different to these days. 

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There's currently a design exhibition on and this model of Picadilly Circus station was fascinating. I really got a sense of how complex the network of tunnels is below the surface.  Quite mind blowing that it all works, actually.

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By this time my energy was waning. I checked my map and discovered that a tube station nearby would take me directly to Earl's Court where the hotel is. It was a sign. Now I'm resting up before heading out to catch up with another friend. 

Tomorrow is my last day in England and I'm trying my hardest not to think about it.

Oops

The plan was to go to Horse Meat Disco last night and check out the new look and sound system, stay for a couple of hours, then head home. Things didn't go according to plan (details not required) and today has been a very slow day as a result. Not that I'm complaining. Wouldn't have changed any of it! 

When I did eventually get out and about I visited the Victoria & Albert Museum. When I went there at the start of my trip there were some books I was interested in but didn't want to weigh down my luggage too early. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find the exact books but did buy another one.

There was also a new installation there as part of engineering month. Thanks for the tip off Andy, I wouldn't have looked for it otherwise. There's a robot/machine that is spinning this structure out of carbon fibre over the course of the month.

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I took a few photos on the way to the museum and back but nothing worth posting here. Tonight I catch up with friends Emma and Sibs. We're going to a Peruvian restaurant. 

Castle time

As expected, I was in bed early last night, before 9:00pm. But I desperately needed the sleep and I think the rest has helped me to shake off the last of the jet lag. I still woke up early, but that's just me. 

The initial plan for today was to meet a friend for coffee in Camden and then maybe wander around the markets. The forecast wasn't too bright so I thought this was a wise move. However, as the sun came up it was looking better than I expected so I changed plans. I was also feeling a little anxious that I hadn't done any of my day trips yet and didn't want to leave them all until my return. So I decided to make my apologies to my friend and head to Windsor Castle. At first I was thinking a grey day might be bad for photographing castles but then I figured it might be more dramatic.

I took the tube to Paddington. The trusses in the station ceiling have this ornate pattern.

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From Paddington I caught the train to Windsor. On the way we went through Southall which curiously had the station name in an Indian looking script as well as English. I assume it was to embrace the cultural identity of the area. Nice one.

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I had to change trains at Slough. Speaking of Slough, all my guesses at pronunciation were wrong. It's pronounced sl-ow as in "cow" - go figure. 

While waiting at Slough for the Windsor train I noticed this building. Seemed a little out of place actually.

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Also while at Slough an express train belted past. It was incredibly fast!

Once at Windsor I made my way to the castle. It must be odd for the town to be in the shadow of this massive structure. I wandered around taking some shots. It's an impressive place. 

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And what's a castle without a gargoyle or dragon or two?

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It started to spot with rain so it was time to move inside and do the tour of the state apartments. As you'd expect they are very grand, if a bit dark and gloomy. But only the Queen's reception room had some serious Royal bling to it. As you'd expect, you're not allowed to take photos inside, so nothing to show you.  

I saw this odd style of clock on the side of the chapel. I've seen some others like it in London. 

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And the chapel was equally as impressive. 

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One really obvious thing you notice as soon as you get to the castle is the air traffic. The castle must be close to right on a main flight path. Lucky those castle walls are thick. I checked my flight path app and this was the traffic going on. 

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When I left the castle it was raining to I dashed to find somewhere for lunch before heading back into the city. At the end of the day I had a booking to visit Dennis Severs' house.  

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It's hard to describe what you encounter when you enter this unassuming door.  If you're interested I suggest you read for yourself on the website.  http://www.dennissevershouse.co.uk/ It was a great experience, though I didn't figure out all of the story. It would be worth going back a second time - I'm sure I'd discover more.

Near the house I came across this sculpture.  I had to look a couple of times to decide whether it was a sculpture or some maintenance work.

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The tube back to the hotel was packed, I guess it was still rush hour. But I made it back intact. I ended the evening sitting in the hotel bar writing this blog and sipping on a martini (or two). 

Museum day

I woke up at 7:00am this morning (Sunday) feeling fresh, though I started feeling a bit tired as the early morning progressed. It rained overnight but it was clearing by 9:00am. I had another delicious breakfast in the hotel and worked on my blog for a while. My first stop for the day didn't open until 11:00am so there was no rush. Having said that, it took me a while to muster the energy to get going, so it was good to not be in a hurry.

Before leaving Australia I saw an advertisement for an open weekend at the London Transport Museum depot so I organised a ticket. Today was the day. It's also the day of the London marathon and I noticed increased police presence as soon as I left the hotel as a policeman brandishing a machine gun was patrolling ahead of me.

I headed to the Kensington High Street tube station to top up my Oyster card and take my first tube ride of this trip (took the circle line to Earls Court then the district line to Acton Town). On my way down the escalator I reacquainted myself with standing on the right side instead of the left as we tend to do. 

The museum depot was a few minutes walk from the station. I noticed these serious pieces of hardware on the way in.

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The depot has a huge collection of old maps and signage. It was fascinating to see how they have evolved. 

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The depot also has a good collection of trains and buses.

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I enjoyed walking around. Dotted around the depot were stalls selling all sorts of second hand transport related items. Of particular interest to me were some maps. I bought a couple. I also bought my first 2 books of the trip - starting early - I must pace myself. One was London Transport Photographs 1880-1965 and the other was 150 of the most iconic posters from the underground. I could easily have bought a few more too.

After a couple of hours of wandering around I made my way back to the hotel to drop off my purchases and decide what to do next. I decided to check out some exhibitions at the Natural History Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum (next door to each other). 

The exhibition at the Natural History Museum was Otherworlds, a collection of large photographs from the solar system to a soundtrack created by Brian Eno. The photographs were spectacular and made me wonder about all that beauty that is never experienced up close ... or is it?

The museum was super busy. I wandered around a bit but nothing really grabbed my attention other than the architecture of the building. 

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The ceiling in the main hall.  
The ceiling in the main hall.  

It was still only 3:30pm so I ventured on to the V&A. Unlike the Natural History Museum, I have been to the V&A before. This time I was interested in an exhibition of photos by Paul Strand, a pioneer of modern photography. Some of his work dates back to 1910 and it was enlightening to see photography in that age being used as an artistic medium rather than just a documentary medium or gimmick. The book shop had a couple more books I'd really like but I decided to wait until I come back to London at the end of May. Then I can load my luggage up for the final flight home if need be. 

I was going to leave but I noticed the medieval/Renaissance section and some amazing carved altar pieces in particular.  The gilded, 3D works were gruesome but stunning. 

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By this time my feet had had enough. I decided to save them a little by catching the tube part way back to the hotel. After a little confusion over which line to catch I made it back to High Street, grabbed some dinner and stumbled back to the hotel. 

I had planned to go out tonight for a bit of a dance at a place I know of, but my feet/legs have given up on me. I'm feeling very tired again and I think an early night is in order. 

New Order/Roisin Murphy at Royal Albert Hall

The concert I wanted to see was New Order playing at the Royal Albert Hall. I was hoping to see some music while overseas. Some of my favourite artists are touring Europe right now but I just miss them each place I go. Also, I'd seen Royal Albert Hall in TV show just recently and wanted to go there. 

Although I know of New Order I never quite got into their music for some reason, but knew I'd like them enough to make this the show to go to. It was part of a series of concerts in aid of the Teenage Cancer Trust. Until the show began, I didn't know Roisin Murphy was the support. 

The guy sitting next to me had only got his ticket this morning too. He flew over from Germany just to attend. He's a huge New Order fan and had seen them in Cologne just recently. 

The hall is spectacular. So many levels. People were standing between the arches in the top tier.

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And an equally spectacular ceiling. 

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Roisin came on shortly after 7:30. She has a great voice live. Some of her music I really like, but I'm really only familiar with one album. She's mad though - the whole performance was about how many costume changes and masks she could fit on, most while she was still on the stage. Kind of looked like she was just doing it to keep herself amused but I guess there must have been more to it than that.  

New Order came on at 9:00. You could tell the audience was filled with enthusiastic fans. That always helps create a great vibe. They were brilliant. I still don't think I'd listen to their albums that much, but live was a whole other experience.  By the end of the show the entire audience was standing.

And the lighting and visuals were spectacular. 

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The show ended around 11:00 and I walked the 10 min walk back to the hotel very pleased I had made the effort. Then fell into bed! 

First day in London

After a big breakfast I headed out. First task was to visit Royal Albert Hall. It's only 10 min walk away and I wanted to see if I could get a ticket for a concert that night. I'd tried getting the ticket while still in Adelaide but I wouldn't work. On the way I walked past the Albert memorial. I've seen it before, but at that moment the sun was perfect and the gold glistened. I stopped to take some pictures but had to play cat and mouse with the sun hiding behind the clouds before I was able to get the shot I wanted.  

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I turned around and there was the Royal Albert Hall. 

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After finding the box office I managed to secure a ticket. More details on that later. After that I headed off through Hyde Park. The trees are just beginning to blossom. 

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The temperature was around 8 degrees but I felt comfortable apart from the occasional bursts of bracing wind. There were plenty of joggers out in the park. Some people riding horses too. Although I wasn't really heading anywhere in particular at first I got off track. My journey took me past some new buildings allowing me to indulge my love of photographing geometrical architecture.

This one is known as the Zig Zag building. 
This one is known as the Zig Zag building. 

Before long I was at the Thames and I had to duck for cover from a few spots of rain. I headed back north and finished up at Covent Garden looking through the markets. There was one stall with some lovely photos of London. I'll go back to get some when I return to London at the end of the trip.

Saturday was St George's Day which is England's national day. There was a festival in Trafalgar Square so I headed there next. It wasn't quite what I expected but it was fun all the same.

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While sitting by one of the fountains in the square I noticed the statues in a pool. Can't say I've taken much notice before but this expression caught my eye. 

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After some food and watching the entertainment I decided to slowly head back to the hotel. My feet were killing me and I was planning to have a nap before the concert. Feeling some slight effects of jet lag. I took the route past Buckingham Palace. All through London I've seen preparations for the London Marathon which is on Sunday. Around the palace was the most activity. I think it finishes there.

As well as blossom I noticed there are tulips everywhere. I saw a couple of beds in Hyde Park as well as the grounds of Kensington Palace.

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Back in the hotel I crawled into bed for a little doze. When the alarm went off I was feeling heavy but managed to wake myself up with some strong coffee and get ready to head out. The concert was starting at 7:30 which was nice and civilised.  I grabbed some sushi for dinner. After pigging out all day it was nice to have something light. Then off to the hall. I'll write about that in my next post.