Posts tagged Cotswolds

14.11 Cotswolds Walk 3

0600 I manage to stay semi-dozing until 0600. It was another night of weird and, at times, disturbing dreams.

0730 I head down to breakfast. I think there is a business group staying here. They’re at breakfast. Sounds like they had a big night. A few sore heads I think.

0830 I step out to buy water for today’s walk. There’s an icy wind blowing.

0925 I catch the 801 bus to Stow-on-the-Wold.

0935 We arrive at Stow-on-the-Wold. I have a brief look around before commencing my walk.

By the way, the walking app I am using is ViewRanger. I believe there are a few different alternatives. I’ve found this one to be very good and in the UK there are quite a few walks to download. It’s definitely helped keep me on track.

1023 I make it to Broadwell. The walk also takes me through Donnington, Upper Swell and Lower Swell. Generally, the landscape is fields and pathways. There is a little incline at times, but nothing too difficult. The wind is biting at times with cloud cover for most of the walk.

1230 I get to the end of the walk. 12 km. My right foot is really sore. My little toe has been rubbing. I’m hobbling a little bit.

1300 I grab a sandwich and find a bench to relax.

1315 I have just over an hour until the next bus back to Moreton-in-Marsh. The shops here look more interesting than those in Moreton-in-Marsh, so I will have a browse. No purchases other than some really nice fudge. Two flavours: Christmas Pudding and Whisky & Ginger.

1410 I’m waiting at the bus stop and the wind is bitter made worse by me still being a little damp from sweat from my walk. I look across the market square and notice a building with a second storey and window that’s decidedly wonky.

1425 Bus 801 back to Moreton-in-Marsh.

1435 I’m back at the hotel. I jump into a nice hot bath. This walk wasn’t as messy as the others and I don’t have any gear to clean.

1500 I head down to the bar/lounge to look through my photos and work on my blog.

1830 I decide to dine in the restaurant. Gin cured salmon followed by stuffed field mushrooms with gruyere gratin. The food here has been excellent.

1930 Some TV and an early night.

England 2018Ian Barber15 November 2018Donnington, Upper Swell, Cotswolds, Lower Swell, Walking, Stow-on-the-Wold Comments

13.11 Cotswolds Walk 2

0520 Last night wasn‘t so good. I woke in the middle of the night quite hot for some reason. And it was a night of strange, vivid and rather disturbing dreams. I check and it‘s not a full moon either; curious.

0700 I head out to get some early light photos of the town. My app says it feels like 0 degrees. I wrap up and use my scarf for the first time this trip. It‘s only just light. The High Street is already packed with traffic; mainly through traffic, I think. In the street they’re setting up for the Tuesday market; “the largest in the Cotswolds”.

0730 The brisk air has made me ravenous. Time for breakfast. I stoke the fire with another decent breakfast. I plan to walk again today.

0845 I head out to check out the market in more detail. There’s enough for me to want to browse now, or I could start my walk instead. I’d rather be walking. The markets should still be there when I get back.

0915 I head off. The initial path turns to muddy fields very quickly. I gingerly walk to avoid slipping. I walked the first part of this walk last year. That was in Spring. It will be interesting to see the countryside now. There is a gentle incline as I head up a hill. I notice quite a lot of wildlife. Squirrels scurry across my path. I disturb pheasant in the grass causing them to run off making a strange and disturbing shriek. At the top of the hill, the wind is icy. But otherwise, it’s a perfect day for walking. Completely blue sky. The view from the top of the hill isn’t as good as I hoped. That is until I walk a little further to Bourton-on-the-Hill. The view from the top of the High Street is stunning. I spend a bit of time getting photos. In particular, I play a waiting game with the traffic to try for car-less shots. I continue my walk through fields and along pathways.

1150 I reach Longborough and stop for a rest and a snack of nuts and fruit. I came prepared today. In this village they have converted the telephone box to contain a public-use defibrillator. I’ve seen these a lot in the UK. Great initiative.

I head off again and walk back to Moreton-in-Marsh.

1300 I get back. 14.2 km in total. I jump into a hot bath then clean my boots and gear.

1330 I check out the market again. There’s a strange mix of fresh produce, clothes, hardware and cards. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot in the way of original crafts. I’m hungry so I get a pork roll followed by a piece of gingerbread fudge. Yum!

1400 I’m back in the hotel. It’s very busy with the lunch trade. I sit in my room and go through the day’s photos and comments from yesterday.

Thanks for the magnesium tip Robyn. Yes, I use it too and I prefer powder form but I’ve been finding it hard to come by in the UK. I got some tablets yesterday which I hope will help.

1500 I stick my nose outside again. They are packing up the market.

1540 I sit in the lounge to relax and finish of my blog. It’s nice to have a bit of activity around me.

1710 I decide to eat in the bar area today. Char grilled chicken burger.

Observation: It feels like people are more reserved here in the Cotswolds. Not so smiley. I found people in the Peak District far more friendly.

I think it will be an early night tonight. I’m feeling quite exhausted. Maybe some TV.

England 2018Ian Barber14 November 2018Longborough, UK, Cotswolds, Bourton-on-the-Hill, Walking Comments

12.11 Cotswolds Walk 1

0540 I have slept really well. I think it must be still only 0200 or 0300 and I’m surprised to see it’s past 0500. As soon as I arrived last night I turned down the central heating so my room has been nice and cool for sleeping. Rooms that were too warm were a real problem last holiday but this time it’s been perfect. Breakfast doesn’t begin until 0730 so I may as well doze a bit longer.

0620 I didn’t really sleep but I have rested a bit more. Time for coffee. The selection of coffees, teas, hot chocolate, water, biscuits (and sherry!) in the room is excellent. It was cold when I arrived last night and my weather app tells me it feels like 3 degrees right now.

0730 I head down for breakfast. I fill up; I have a long walk ahead of me today.

0800 I do a bit of planning and pack my bag with the things I think I’ll need.

0845 I start a walk using my app. The walk starts through grassy fields. The temperature is brisk but I’m feeling fine and before long I‘m just walking in t-shirt. I pass a field of sheep and they all stand perfectly still on queue as I walk past. After a while the walk takes me across recently ploughed fields. The mud cakes to my boots. Again, I‘m grateful I invested in decent boots for this trip. Also, I‘m thankful to Robyn who gave me great advice on my last trip to wear two layers of socks; no blisters this year!

At times it’s hard to know if I‘m going in the right direction. The footpaths are not all clearly marked. I put my trust in the app and it‘s really good for directing me. Sometimes I just head where it tells me and hope for the best. A couple of times I head the wrong way and need to find my way back. The walk takes me through a couple of small villages. It also takes me across a field of cows. Walking among sheep doesn‘t bother me but the cows stare me down and I steer clear of them as much as I can. About 3/4 into the walk the clouds are getting darker. Luckily I packed a spray jacket. Before long I need to put it on. The showers aren’t too heavy but they persist on and off until the end of the walk. My trousers are pretty damp by the end.

1420 I get back, 20.6 km later. Surprisingly, I don’t feel too bad. I took water with me but I haven‘t felt hungry; the big breakfast I had has served me well. I have make a coffee before slipping into a nice hot Radox bath. Afterwards, I clean my boots before the remaining mud dries.

1500 It‘s still early so I head out to check out the street. I had the impression that there were lots of interesting shops in the Main Street but on closer inspection, there‘s not anything I find worth buying.

1640 I sit down in the bar by the fire to work on my blog.

1900 Time for dinner. Blue cheese and walnut Soufflee, chicken supreme and Creme brûlée. All extremely delicious. The food in this hotel is excellent.

2020 It‘s been a big day. Time for bed I think.

England 2018Ian Barber13 November 2018Moreton-in-Marsh, Cotswolds, Nature, UK, Walking Comments

11.11 IWM Duxford and on to the Cotswolds

0530 I haven’t slept well due to leg cramps. I get them now and then. I didn’t drink enough yesterday, so I suspect I may be a bit dehydrated. I will try to rehydrate today. It’s going to be a busy day then travelling to my next base.

0645 As expected, it is especially quiet at breakfast. It’s raining outside.

My shoes are still damp after last night’s adventure. I use the hair dryer to dry them a bit and it appears to work.

0800 After repacking my bags I work on my blog post for yesterday.

0900 I check all the timetables for today’s travels. I’m all packed and ready in plenty of time. Today I want to visit the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. This part of the museum is all about aviation. It mainly has war planes but also some commercial ones. It has been on my to-do list for the last couple of visits to the UK. My bus is not until 1012.

0930 The weather has cleared up.

0950 I get to the bus stop early but there isn’t clear signage for the bus I want. Then a driver also points to a notice saying that busses won’t be stopping in the street between 1000 and 1200 due to the Remembrance Day march. Not looking promising. Others are looking for the same bus too. Another driver suggests walking to another stop just in case the bus picks up the route later. It sounds like it’s worth a try. I walk with someone who was going to the hospital. We chat until we reach a bus stop.

1015 After a few minutes the bus arrives. Phew!

1030 As we try to exit the motorway, the bus gets stuck in the queue of cars also wanting to go to the museum. We grind to a halt. When it’s clear we are going to be a long time the bus driver executes a tricky manoeuvre which gets us to a place he can drop us off to walk the last short distance. Legend!

1054 I’m in the gate.

1100 In one of the hangars we observe 2 minutes silence. It’s somber but then a very small boy nearby keeps asking “Why is everyone so sad now?”. For me, that innocence just makes the occasion even more poignant and moving.

I wander around the various hangars. I’ve been to some air museums before, most notably the one in Washington DC. So there’s not a lot here that really excites me. Having said that, it’s really well done and very extensive. Maybe it‘s just me today. They do have a Concorde you can walk through. Unfortunately, inside it is set out as the test plane would have been with instrumentation. It didn’t give a very good sense of what the passenger experience would have been.

1230 I need to make a call to aim for the 1327 bus back to Cambridge or wait until 1527. I haven‘t seen everything, but I think I‘ve seen enough. And leaving early will mean I don’t get to the Cotswolds quite as late.

1325 The bus arrives.

1345 We reach Cambridge. On the way to collect my bags from the hotel I get my train tickets. I decide to get First Class. It‘s another long journey and I would like to be comfortable. I grab some lunch that I can eat on the train.

1428 We depart for London Kings Cross. The first train is definitely more comfortable in First Class. The weather is clear with just patchy cloud.

1535 We arrive at Kings Cross station. I make my way to the underground after going the wrong way only once. It’s a rabbit warren of passages and escalators.

1550 I take the Hammersmith & City line to Paddington.

1600 We get to Paddington station.

1620 I‘m onboard the train that will take me to Morton-in-Marsh in the Cotswolds.

1637 We depart, stopping at Slough, Maidenhead, Reading, Didcot Parkway, Oxford, Hanborough, Charlbury, Kingham and Moreton-in-Marsh.

1830 We arrive in Moreton-in-Marsh. I‘ve been to this town a couple of times, so I know my way to the hotel. I haven‘t stayed at the Redesdale Arms before but I have eaten here. It‘s the polar opposite of the last hotel. Old charm and history, dating back to around 1650. The room has a physical key!

1930 I head down for dinner. I‘ll try out the dining room menu tonight. I have fried breaded Brie, seared Scottish salmon and sticky toffee pudding with toffee icecream. All excellent and much more than I needed. But ... I‘m on holiday!

England 2018Ian Barber12 November 2018UK, IWM Duxford, Moreton-in-Marsh, Cotswolds, Aviation, Airplanes Comments

Burford

This morning when I woke up the sky was blue for the first time since I arrived in the UK. I had plans for another trek in the Cotswolds, so wasted no time getting to breakfast. As I was getting ready to leave I noticed that the soles of my boots had almost worn through! Too much walking. I will have to get some new ones but my other shoes would have to do today.

I needed to catch the 9:00am 853 bus to Burford. Well, technically I wanted to get off a little outside Burford near Little Barrington. My plan for the day was to follow two walking maps I found online.

My first challenge was to find the bus stop in Oxford. I found it online OK but when I got there it wasn't marked. After a little bit of concern I noticed the bus arriving. As I boarded and requested my stop the bus driver was also a bit confused. He doesn't drive this route often and wasn't familiar with the stop. Luckily the lady behind me was after the same stop and had additional information. So off we went.

The bus trip took just under an hour. Here's the map for the first walk. I got off the bus at #1.

I located the foot path and got on my way.

The walk took me through Little Barrington and then to Great Barrington. Both had typical cottages and buildings for the area.

It's been a long time since I saw milk delivered at all, let alone in bottles.

As with the other day, the walk took me through all sorts of terrain.

After my walk around the Barringtons the main part of the journey took me along a quiet country lane to Burford. The walk took about an hour and I only encountered one car. The lane way wound through hedges and occasionally opened out to beautiful views of the surrounding farmland and the River Windrush meandering along side it.

And I encountered quite a bit of wildlife.

Even though I only encountered one car, there were a number of bike riders enjoying the sensational weather. Speaking of which, by this time it was definitely t-shirt and sunscreen weather for me.

After a delightfully leisurely walk I arrived in Burford. Another picturesque town. Unfortunately, all the car traffic made it difficult to get a good photo to do the town justice.

After a quick wander down the main street I grabbed some lunch and headed off on my second walk.

Although this is intended to be a walk from point #1 to Burford via one of two alternative routes, I decided to walk it as a loop. I started at Burford and walked towards #2 then backtracked through #5-7.

Throughout the day I noticed a lot of airforce traffic. I assume there must be a base nearby.

This walk followed the River Windrush more closely.

Near Swinbrook there was a mill.

Shortly after leaving the mill I encountered a young chinese girl also looking for the way to Swinbrook. You can see her up ahead in this photo. We chatted for a while and walked together until we successfully made it to Swinbrook.

Swinbrook was another quaint village. I continued further to Asthall. On the way there the footpath went through a field with cows. A sign said to beware as the cows can be protective of their young. As I passed a herd, one was keeping a very close eye on me and started "tapping" a hoof. I passed by as quickly and calmly as I could.

Of course, Asthall was yet another quaint village.

From there I had to backtrack to Swinbrook before heading north. I was following the footpath described in my directions until I came across this field. The directions indicated to walk across it but it was fenced off. The fencing appeared recent and temporary. It also appeared electrified! I found another way instead.

Along my alternative route I encountered more beautiful cottages.

Before entering Widley Copse.

The other day and today I've recorded fragments of birdsong. It was particularly beautiful in these woods. I'll try to post some of the recordings when I get a chance.

Out the other side of the woods I needed to walk across field after field of crops. Luckily there was a very clearly marked path to follow. In the distance I noticed an animal on the path. When I zoomed in I discovered this guy.

The lines of crop were so regular.

A bit more walking got me to Fulbrook and then back to Burford. By this time my feet and legs were aching. Not as badly as the other day, but bad enough. I came across the Cotswold Arms and decided to rest my feet while enjoying a well earned pint.

From there I just needed to find the bus stop. I passed more of the beautiful streetscape.

When I got to where I thought the bus stop should be, it only mentioned the 233 bus. Confused I set out to find help. I asked a passerby who confirmed that the 853 stops there also. Phew! I double confirmed by asking the lady who was also now waiting at the stop. She was lovely and we had a chat up until the bus arrived.

I got back to the hotel shortly after 6:00pm and straight into a nice hot bath.

England and Wales 2017Ian Barber10 May 2017Countryside, Walking, Cotswolds, UK, Villages, England, Wildlife Comment

Moreton-in-Marsh to Broadway

I have lots of photos to share in this post. I walked close on 20km yesterday and my body isn't happy with me. Last night I felt I may have pushed myself too far, but luckily I'm feeling OK today.

But back to the beginning. I was up early to avoid the breakfast rush. The service here is fantastic and I filled up on a hearty breakfast to give me fuel for the day ahead. It was a grey morning but I expected that to clear. After spending a bit of time making plans and downloading timetables I made my way to the station. On the way I passed my first squirrel of the trip. But he was too nimble for me to catch with my camera.

I bought a Cotswolds Discoverer pass which is a really cheap way to get unlimited train and bus travel within the Cotwolds. Unfortunately you can't use it until after 9:00am so my enthusiasm to get to the station was somewhat wasted. In the end I caught the 09:24 Hereford train to Moreton-in-Marsh.

I visited Moreton-in-Marsh on my trip last year but only on my way elsewhere. This time I saw a bit more as I made my way to the start of my walking trail.

In the Cotswolds, as with all of England, there are public footpaths which are signposted walking trails through the country. They're really easy to follow and, as you'll see from the photos, they take you through all types of terrain. I found some great maps of the footpaths in Moreton-in-Marsh. You just need to keep following the markers.

The start of the journey took me through some beautiful wooded fields.

I came across this little farmhouse early in the walk.

The winding paths enticed me onward.

In Kent I saw huge expanses of bluebells but didn't manage to photograph any. I made sure I captured the few I saw on this walk.

After about an hour of walking I approached Blockley.

The buildings in the town were of the typical honey coloured stone of the region.

I stopped for lunch in a little cafe before continuing my walk. Between the fields there were usually gates but sometimes there were stiles like these.

As I headed out from Blockley towards Broad Campden I reached this field and my one and only lost moment. The field is quite steep and when I reached the top the gate looked different and had no markers. Every other gate so far had been clearly marked so I worried that I might have headed in the wrong direction. So I walked all the way around the perimeter of the field looking for another exit. When I got back to the start I came across a group of walkers coming down the field who confirmed that the gate I first encountered was the exit after all. And when I got through there were markers just past it!

I passed another farmhouse on my way.

Just under an hour after leaving Blockley I reached Broad Campden. I visited this little town last year and it has some beautiful little cottages. I didn't take many photos as I had taken so many last year.

From Broad Campden it was only a short walk to the larger town of Chipping Campden. I wasn't the only walker.

Walking through the streets of Chipping Campden to the centre of the town, I came across some more beautiful houses.

Finally I made it to the main street. It's hard to get a picture of the street without cars but I managed this angle.

I took the Cotswolds Way out of Chipping Campden on my way to Broadway Tower. This bird house high on the side of a tree caught my attention.

As I reached the top of a hill outside of the town I came across this man leaning against the wall painting. I first saw him from the other side. I would have liked to take a portrait photo of him but didn't have the courage to ask. I settled on a more anonymous shot later on.

From Broad Campden I started to encounter sheep on my journey. And usually very vocal sheep.

There were some stunning views from Dover Hill.

This letter box was a flash of red in an otherwise verdant green lane way.

Then more beautiful vistas.

Sometimes the foot path went around the edges of working fields. Other times it went right through the middle.

Or through woodland.

Towards the end of my journey, when my legs were cramping and aching, I reached one of my destinations - Broadway Tower. The tower is a folly, meaning a building constructed for no particular practical purpose.

Despite feeling that my legs might give away at any moment I couldn't resist the urge to climb to the top.

And the view made it worth the pain.

From the tower it was just over another mile to my final destination - the town of Broadway.

And through fields of sheep.

Broadway is a beautiful town. Had I reached it earlier (with fresher legs) I would have loved to explore but my legs and back were really in a lot of pain. My plan was to catch a bus back to Moreton-in-Marsh but I had about 45min to wait. I headed in to the Lygon Arms for a well deserved pint and a rest for my legs. By this time it was coming up to 6:00pm.

As I waited for the bus I noticed this fellow "hanging around". I assume he was lost and waiting for his owner.

I caught the bus back to Moreton-in-Marsh. I had planned to catch an earlier bus which would have connected perfectly with a train back to Oxford. But early on I realised the walk was going to take longer and I made the conscious decision to maximise the walk rather than rush to meet a schedule. The downside was that the bus I caught did not connect with a train and I had another hour to wait. In need of some warmth and comfort I stepped into the Redesdale Arms for a lovely Steak and Ale pie for dinner.

When I finally got back to the hotel in Oxford I immediately slipped into a long hot bath to smooth my well earned aches and pains. After a grey start the weather had improved. For much of the walk I was comfortable just in t-shirt without my jacket. I even caught a little bit of sunburn when the ferocity of the sun caught me by surprise.

Finally, here's a map showing the towns I visited.

England and Wales 2017Ian Barber8 May 2017Villages, Walking, Countryside, Cotswolds, UK, England Comments

AONB

Today is my last full day in the Cotswolds. I had two alternative plans. One was to head north to Tewksebury. The other was to head south to Stroud and Painswick. As I was checking train times this morning I discovered that there had been an accident on the line to Worcester that I would need for Tewksebury and the line was out. Decision made.

Of course, the problems with the train line were a little more concerning because that's the line my train will use tomorrow. I started to make alternative plans just in case I had to get to York via a different route.

Once organised, I headed to the train station to take the train to Stroud. There was a degree of chaos there regarding the line problems but the staff were doing a great job and appeared to be managing the situation as best they could. My train was only partly affected as extra people needed to travel south in order to catch a different line north.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect at Stroud. What I found was a bit of a mishmash. Some very old buildings some newer. But what I saw didn't have the charm of the other towns I've seen.

What was different, and most impressive about the town were the views of the countryside from within the town.

There was a busy market in an area of the town called The Shambles, mainly farmers market but there were some craft stalls dotted around. I wandered a bit.

One stall had some amazing mounted photographs of the Cotswolds. I was tempted to buy one but decided to get it on the way back through Stroud at the end of the day (unfortunately plans changed and that didn't happen). I did, however, buy a delicious chocolate and lemon cheesecake brownie from a brownie stall. And the waistline expansion continues.

I didn't stay in Stroud long though. Instead I took the 61 bus to get to Painswick. Painswick had a completely different feel. The buildings were reminiscent of the other villages I've visited, but with similarly spectacular views to Stroud. Like yesterday, utterly breathtaking at times.

One shop had this cute tiny window display.

St Mary's church is in the centre of the town. A cemetery with numerous topiary trees surrounds it. I saw a photograph of the village in a window that I think would have been taken from the base of the spire. There was a mist over the buildings and it just looked magical.

I wandered around so much that I missed the bus I had intended to catch back to Stroud. So instead I popped in to the Falcon Inn for delicious beef and ale pie followed by salted caramel chocolate tart with salted caramel ice cream. More expanding waistline.

Lunch didn't seem that much but I found it hard to move afterwards. Instead of returning to Stroud I decided the easiest option would be to continue with the 61 bus on to Cheltenham. As the bus reached the edge of the town an incredible vista of the surrounding hills opened up. If only I had walked a little bit further!

By the time I got back to the hotel I felt I needed to walk off lunch a bit more so I wandered around the area by the hotel a bit. By this time it was about 4:30. So many trees are in blossom. There is one kind in particular I have noticed. It has cones of blossom pointing upward. This picture doesn't show the shape all that well, but it was the only tree I could find with the right light for a photograph.

So, the last three days have exceeded my expectations of what I would find in the Cotswolds and I understand why they are designated as an AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty).

Also, it looks like the train line to the north has been cleared, so I'm hopeful that tomorrow's journey will be able to proceed as originally planned. I'll check again in the morning to be safe.

England and Scandinavia 2016Ian Barber15 May 2016Villages, Countryside, England, Cotswolds, UK, Southern England Comments

Beauty overload

The places I visited yesterday were beautiful but I still felt that I had only scratched the surface of Cotswolds beauty. After all, I hadn't seen a proper thatched roof cottage yet! So today I decided to go even more off the beaten track. I picked up some good walking maps from Bourton-on-the-Water yesterday and planned a trip around a place called Chipping Campden.

First up I needed to catch the 801 bus again but this time all the way to Moreton-in-Marsh. I had to change buses at the train station. The signal box at the station was very cute.

Next I caught the 22 bus to Chipping Campden. The bus wound through Bourton-on-the-Hill, Blockley and Broad Campden. All of them looked gorgeous but only Broad Campden was going to be easy enough for me to get to. By the way, I think the names of these places are just as beautiful as the places themselves.

Chipping Campden was another large town, but with lots of very historic buildings in the honey coloured stone of the Cotswolds. I wandered around a bit, but it was very much a sense of more of the same as yesterday. And it was already busy with tourists.

I was keen to get back to Broad Campden so I headed off down one of the walking paths.

Broad Campden was exactly what I felt I had missed so far. Small, charming, no tourists ... and a good smattering of thatched cottages.

I noticed this on the top of one of the thatches.

All of the walking paths around the village led to beautiful views.

On one edge of the village was a field with sheep grazing. It was great to be able to get up close.

My original plan had me walking on to 2-3 other villages. But with this village I really felt that I'd seen what I'd been looking for, plus it was lunch time, plus I was getting a bit tired of walking. So I popped into the Bakers Arms for lunch.

I had a delicious spiced parsnip soup with crusty roll. Coincidentally, the Bakers Arms was the local bus stop so I decided to stay there to wait for the bus to start the journey back. As with yesterday, connection times for the return trip weren't so good so it took a long time to get back to Cheltenham. This time I was able to take part of the trip by train (via Worcester) which gave me some time to research options for tomorrow's adventure.

I must admit, there were times today when I turned a corner and lost my breath at the beauty and surprise of the scene that appeared before me. Truly stunning.

England and Scandinavia 2016Ian Barber14 May 2016Towns, Villages, Countryside, Walking, England, UK, Cotswolds, Southern England Comment

Slaughtering time

The reason for staying in Cheltenham was to use it as a base for exploring the Cotswolds. It's just outside the main Cotswolds area but very accessible. Though based on what I've learnt, next time I would/will stay in one of the small towns to get a more complete experience.

My original plan was also to drive but I've gone off that idea completely. The roads around here are as narrow as Cornwall. So this morning I checked out all the resources I could to plan an itinerary using local buses. It took a bit of jiggling but I came up with a plan that looked good on paper. But would it actually work?

First off I needed to make my way to the train station. Firstly to buy a Cotswolds Discoverer pass which would give me unlimited train and bus travel. And secondly to catch the 801 bus to Northleach.

Northleach wasn't a final destination. I needed to change buses there. But it was still a good introduction to the feel of the Cotswolds.

From Northleach I caught the 855 bus to Bilbury. Getting off the bus I overhead a woman with an Australian accent asking where the bus stop for the return journey was. I took the opportunity of speaking with her to find that out for myself too.

Bilbury was prettier than Northleach, with a small river running through the centre.

I wandered around town for a bit and then to the edge of town.

Not the kind of wildlife signs we're used to seeing in Australia.

The bus back to Northleach and on to my next destination didn't leave until 1:17, so I decided it would make sense to have lunch. There were a couple of options, but the Swan Inn looked the best and was in view of the bus stop, just to be safe. Had a delicious pulled pork burger.

Also at the Swan Inn was the Australian woman I had spoken to after getting off the bus. Our paths had crossed a bit while wandering around town and we had a chat while we waited for the bus. She is from Newcastle visiting her daughter and having a holiday at the same time. She gave me a good tip for something to see at my next destination.

We caught the 855 bus back to Northleach and then waited for the 801 bus to Bourton-on-the-Water. This town had yet another feel. By the time I got there it was about 2:30 and it was packed with tourists. Still pretty though.

I had plenty of time before the final bus back to Cheltenham so I followed up the advice I'd been given which was to walk from Bourton-on-the-Water to Lower Slaughter. I know, the name sounds terrible but it's an old word for "miry place". The walk took me along a public walkway between the towns. I bought some maps with these walkways and am considering doing a bit more walking tomorrow. They're really good paths and it's a great way to get off the beaten track.

And Lower Slaughter was delightful.

All in all, the day was a bit like stepping back in time. The towns and villages feel like they have barely changed. Only the road signs and occasional modern conveniences remind you that it's 2016.

The bus back to Cheltenham left Bourton-on-the-Water at 5:10. By now my feet were killing me. It was nice to sit on the bus for a while. The journey took about an hour and a half. I managed to catch some more shots of the scenery on the way back.

Time for a shower, a drink and some bangers and mash in the bar.

England and Scandinavia 2016Ian Barber13 May 2016Villages, Towns, Countryside, Walking, England, Cotswolds, UK, Southern EnglandComment

Hello Cheltenham

The hotel I'm staying in was first opened in 1838. It's quite grand and it will be a great base for my exploration of the Cotswolds.

The room overlooks a park.

The hotel has an impressive central staircase.

By the time I had regroued and was ready to explore the wet weather had arrived. I waited in the lobby for the first shower to pass before heading out. Cheltenham is a lovely looking city with lots of Georgian buildings. It was too dark and wet to get pictures today but I will at some stage. After wandering a little and stopping for a coffee the rain looked set in so I decided to return to the warmth of the hotel for the evening.

England and Scandinavia 2016Ian Barber12 May 2016Towns, England, Southern England, UK, Cotswolds, AccommodationComment