Even though I didn't get back from Singing with Nightingales until nearly 1:00am I wanted to get up and out fairly early this morning. The alarm woke me at 7:30am after a solid sleep and I headed down to breakfast. 

After my first repack for the trip - everything still fits in the suitcase - I headed to the station to catch the 10:43am high speed train to St Pancras station. From there I caught the Circle line to Baker Street followed by the Bakerloo line to Marylebone Station. Being a Sunday morning, neither of the tube lines were busy and there was no trouble getting my luggage on or off. Although navigating from one line to the other at Baker Street was a bit tricky - up and down stairs and through a maze of walkways. Finally I was able to get on the 12:35pm train to Oxford after pausing for a quick lunch. 

The train took about an hour. After the cool grey skys of Ashford, Oxford greeted me with blue skys and scattered high cloud. By mid afternoon it was even t-shirt temperature. 

My pre-prepared map isn't correct as the train I caught went through High Wycombe instead.

I've chosen Oxford as a base to further explore the Cotswolds, this year from the east. I had considered staying in the middle, but didn't want to be constrained to one area.

As with Kent, there are more places on my wish list than I could possibly fit into 4 days. I'll just see how I feel each day. 

I had trouble deciding what to do today. I had a number of options but most had a downside I wanted to avoid. Yesterday I purchased a National Trust membership so I decided to consult their book for ideas. I settled on a visit to an estate known as Knole just outside Sevenoaks. 

Being the weekend, it was busy at breakfast but I managed to get through fairly quickly and head to the train station to catch the 10:02 direct to Sevenoaks. From the Sevenoaks train station it was a 20 min walk up a hill to the estate.

As soon as I arrived I came across a number of herds of deer. Luckily with my telephoto lens I could get some good pictures while keeping my distance. 

The grounds were expansive. Over 1,000 acres. I only covered a tiny fraction of them but the terrain was still varied. 

The "house" itself was suitably grand. My membership allowed me free entry. 

And there was (another) tower to climb with great views from the top.

In the middle of the building were a couple of courtyards.  As you can see from the photos, the sky momentarily cleared from the overcast it had been most of the morning.

Inside, a number of the rooms had been restored so I had a wander around. Unfortunately, photography inside was not allowed. The interior was very ornate with massive works of art everywhere. 

After a light lunch I headed back to Ashford. I wanted to buy some wet weather over pants for Singing With Nightingales tonight. The forecast is a bit ambiguous but we have been advised to be prepared. 

On the train back to Ashford I managed to take some more photos of the Kent countryside. This is typical of the farm houses I saw today. 

When I got back to Ashford I figured my best bet for the wet weather gear was the local "designer" outlet. It's a massive oval shaped collection of stores. 

Luckily, among the label stores there was an outdoor shop with what I was looking for. 

So now I'm all prepared. All we need now are the nightingales to show up! 

From the warmth of a hotel room I headed out. Free of expectations, because how can you form an expectation of such an unlikely event?

We met by a campfire at a farm outside of town. Green Farm, on Church Lane, Shadoxhurst - every part of that address conjures up images to me. 10 or so people, some strangers, some known to each other. Me, feeling my usual social awkwardness but managing to keep conversations alive. Added to the guest numbers were Tom the ornithologist, Clara the musician, Martin the owner of the farm and his wife Emily, and Will - I'm not sure of Will's official role other than to be adorably passionate about all things nature.

After greeting, we headed out on a dusk walk through the woods, Will quizzing us about every tree and encouraging us to adjust to the sounds of the birds, Tom separating and identifying each bird by their song. We walked casually, anticipating the return journey we would make under the cover of darkness.

Return to the fireplace and delicious warm food. Will spoke more and Tom introduced us to the story of nightingale and the long journeys they have taken to be with us tonight. Clara sang, in Catalan and English, with accordion and guitar. A sweet yet strong voice reaching out as the darkness drew nearer. Fire keeping us warm as the temperature dropped.

Then it was time to venture out again. But this time into the total darkness. This time to be greeted by only one song - the nightingale. Wrapped in warm blankets we walked silently across fields, through gates and woods. We began to hear the songs around us in the distance but we didn't stop. Eventually we reached our destination. Our bird was in the thick undergrowth. Safe and brave. Aware of us, despite our best attempts, but too determined to sing his song of love to be distracted.

We settled down and listened. Another was nearby, competing in song.

After a while, Clara began her duet, mimicking and contrasting the bird song. Starting softly and building until she was as loud as her partner only metres away. We sat and listened, in awe, in dream like silence, in the shared communion of a special experience.

When the time eventually came to leave, we quietly rose, gathered ourselves and began the long walk back. Reverent, feeling privileged and thankful. Leaving our friends to continue their song long into the dark night.

(Here's video from an earlier performance)

[youtube=://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x-DEV6aLbA&w=854&h=480]

I took the train to Hastings. On the final approach to the station we passed hills of 3-4 story houses perched up high. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a photo. I need to get to Hastings in order to catch a bus to Bodiam where there is a ruined castle I wanted to visit. I think castles will be a major feature of this trip.

As I waited for the 349 bus I noticed that everyone getting on the other buses were using contactless cards. I didn't see anyone pay by cash. This made me a little concerned that I wouldn't be able to get a ticket so I asked someone and they confirmed that you can pay by cash. Phew! When the 349 bus arrived I purchased a return ticket to Bodiam.  The bus took about an hour with 1/2 of the trip travelling along narrow roads edged with hedgerows. 

When I arrived, the castle was peeking through the trees. After purchasing my ticket from an extremely friendly assistant I started to explore the grounds and the castle. 

Bodiam is quite distinctive in its compact design and intact moat. 

You can walk up the stairs inside the towers, though the steps were ridiculously high. The top gave a great view of the Kent countryside. 

They also gave a good view of the ruins inside the castle. Unlike Dover, there were hardly any intact spaces. 

I started to get a little fixated by photographing the outside world through the empty windows, gaping holes and doorways.

Walking back across the bridge to the castle, another visitor noticed the very unattractive fish in the moat. 

I had a while to wait before the bus back to Hastings, so wandered around the tiny town on Bodiam and the beautiful surrounding Kent countryside. 

I started to worry when the bus was over 10 min late. They don't run very frequently. Just as I was trying to figure out what I'd do if it didn't turn up, it arrived and took me back to Hastings before a final train trip back to Ashford station.  

The walk back to the hotel was grey and very cold. I even needed to get out my hat and gloves for the first time to keep me warm. But, once again, that's not really a complaint. I don't mind a bit of cold.

It was another fun day of adventure in beautiful countryside.

I slept solidly again last night apart from waking up around 3:30am. Actually, the waking up is a good sign because that's what I tend to do at home - so I must be adjusting well. Actually I haven't experienced any jet lag to speak of at all. 

After another good breakfast and some planning I headed back to the station. The weather was grey with some blue patches. I think it had rained again overnight. 

My first destination was a little town called Rye. I've seen some photos and thought it would be a quaint place to visit. 

On arrival I was treated by yet another city gate. 

I wandered around the narrow streets with many Elizabethan and medieval buildings before reaching Mermaid Street which is by far the most picturesque. 

After some morning tea in a tiny tea room I headed to the main church which was advertising climbs to their tower. 

The stairs to the top were definitely the steepest and most narrow I have ever experienced. At one stage I could only proceed by walking side ways with my camera bag in front of me. Luckily the views were worth it. 

It was incredibly gusty at the top. I wondered how these birds could be so calmly perched in that weather. 

After the tower I made my way back to the train station past the river. The tide was out, which seems to be a recurring theme for me.  But it did make me giggle at the sign. 

I only had a short wait at the station before my next train to Hastings. 

I've been wanting to visit Dover Castle for a while but didn't get to it on previous trips. I can vaguely visiting the castle as a child and I've been curious to see if any of it is familiar. From the train station it was about 1/2 hour walk to the castle. As you can see, the castle is high up on a hill. 

It was quite a steep walk in places. 

After breathlessly purchasing my entry ticket I began to walk around the grounds. There are numerous towers and walls dotted around the site in various degrees of decay. 

Eventually I made it to the main castle walls and the square keep inside.

Build circa 1181-88 - that's what I call a historical building. 

Inside the keep you can walk up stairways to check out the various floors and make it to the roof. 

There are a surprising number of stairways, passages, nooks and halls. I suppose I'd expected it to be one hollow space. 

I don't remember what was inside, so I'm not sure how recent these furnishings are. But they certainly bring the space to life.  

Along with a blazing fire in one of the rooms, it was surprisingly warm and cosy inside. 

One small room was the King's chapel. The stained glass created an incredibly vibrant pattern on the floor. 

The view from the top was spectacular. In particular, there is a saxon church also on the site within the grounds that looked perfect perched on the hillside.

And it was a long way down. 

When I reached the Constable's Gate I had my first real sense of recognition. I don't know if it was from a personal memory or from reading the souvenir guide mum and dad used to have, but I definitely remembered this part of the castle. 

Along the outer wall of the castle was the moat, now inhabited by grazing sheep. 

Inside, there were more walls. 

After wandering around the castle and stopping for some cake and coffee I headed to the edge of the site with a great view of the English Channel. Unfortunately, it was too hazy to see France. 

On the edge of the site was my last stop - the tunnels. Under and around the castle there are miles of tunnels on 3 levels. They were first built at the time of the Napoleonic wars and then used extensively in WWII. Finally, they were prepared for use as a nuclear fallout shelter which was thankfully never required.

The tunnels are now used to house a multimedia exhibition on the evacuation from Dunkirk. It was tremendously well done and took us deep into the tunnels, going more than 26 metres deep at one stage. 

The tour finished at 5:17 and the train back to Ashford left Dover Priory station at 5:58. I wasn't exactly how long it had taken me to walk to the castle but I didn't want to miss the train so I power walked back down the hill. Fortunately, I made it in plenty of time. 

By the time I made it back to the hotel my feet and legs were killing me. So I had a quiet dinner while working on my blog and resting those legs. 

And as expected, the weather had greatly improved from the grey overcast morning. In the middle of the day it had been sunny, though still fresh. 

After falling into bed before 6:30 I slept well and quite solidly for nearly 11 hours. I awoke feeling only a little tired and certainly without any signs of jet lag and was up by 6:00 to head down to breakfast early. It was drizzling a little outside, grey and cold but I had an inkling it would improve.

After a nourishing breakfast I got myself ready to head out on my first adventure. The walk to the station took about 1/2 hour and along the way I adjusted to the realisation that I was back here again and it felt so nice. The rain had stopped but it was still grey and cold - but I didn't mind at all.

First destination was going to be Canterbury. I caught the 9:30 train to Canterbury West. On the way there we passed green fields interspersed with undulations and woods. I would discover that this is typical of the Kent countryside. Upon my arrival I headed to the centre of the town through a city gate.

The cathedral is huge. I thought York Minster from last year was big, but Canterbury feels much more cavernous and has extensive grounds around it. 

The pulpit was rather ornate. 

As you'd expect, there was stained glass everywhere. Some of the most intricate I have seen. 

Along with incredibly detailed ceilings. 

After wandering through each part of the interior, I explored the grounds. The wisterias are out at the moment.

I thought these lights were interesting. 

After buying a beautiful book on song birds, I made my way through the town to Canterbury East station, stopping for some lunch along the way. 

For some reason, this house caught my eye.

Finally, just before the station, I came across a wheel anchored to the wall. No idea why. 

After a 1/2 hour wait at the train station I boarded the train to my next destination - Dover. 

I picked Ashford as a central base for Kent. Technically, I was born in Kent. Though my hometown, Dartford, is on the edge between Greater London and Kent, so only just. I wanted to visit Kent because it's often described as the garden of England.  

I have quite a few places I'd like to see but not enough time to see them all. It will come down to weather and how I feel each day. 

This is the story of how I got to England.

I chose to fly with Qatar mainly because they have one of the fastest routes to London. But I'd also read good things about their product. And after last year's splurge in business class, I couldn't talk myself out of doing it again.  

The flight departed Adelaide at 10:30 pm, so already it was a different experience. Working all day knowing you would fly overseas that night was exciting - lucky I had a fairly busy day ahead to distract me. However, when the time came to go home I found myself in a bit of limbo as there was no point getting to the airport too early. 

When I got there and through the automated and much faster customs, the plane was patiently waiting. 

In the prior months I'd flown interstate for work a few times and each time this flight was waiting, teasing me. Now it was my turn to get onboard.

It's an A350 and I'd never flown on one before. They are very slick, inside and out. There are no compartments above the middle seats in business class, giving it an open, airy feeling. I had selected a seat by the window.

The controls allowed me to morph the seat in almost any way imaginable.

Along with a set of un-glamorous but very comfy PJs, I received an amenities pack with face mist, moisturiser, lip balm, eye mask, ear plugs and socks. 

Soon after take off they offered us dinner. Although, with Qatar, they have a dine anytime service which means you can request anything off the menu at any time throughout the flight. It's a great idea, though sometimes it's nice just to be fed. 

I chose the snapper. 

I decided to force myself to stay awake for a few hours. I would be a 13 hour flight and I wanted to start adjusting to London time. I watched a couple of movies: Arrival and La La Land. Enjoyed both, but in very different ways. 

When bed time came I got into my (roomy XL sized) PJs and settled down. With eye mask and ear plugs I managed to get 3-4 hours of interrupted sleep which is a major achievement for me. The seat folded down was really comfortable and the cabin had a good temperature for sleeping. I was happy with that. 

A few hours out from Doha (in Qatar) I opened the blind as the sun started to rise. At first the sky and clouds were all soft pastel blues and white but closer to Doha the bright orange sun cut through the clouds. 

I only had a short stopover in Doha. Just enough time to freshen up in the lounge and take in some more water. While waiting to board my second flight (an A380) I noticed the hazy skyline of Doha in the distance. 

The second flight was shorter, only 6 hours.

It was a breakfast service and by this time I was ravenous.  

I chose the greek yoghurt followed by the scrambled edges. 

Even though it was a daytime flight, most of the cabin seemed to want to sleep. I resisted as part of my body clock reset strategy, though eventually I felt obliged to close my blind. Apart from some snow capped mountains over the middle east, there was thick cloud the rest of the way so I didn't really miss out. 

Both flights landed on time and a fast track pass from Qatar Airways saw me through customs in no time.  From there I took the Piccadilly line into London, then the high speed rail to Ashford.

The moment I got on the first train it almost felt as if I had never left. It was a comforting feeling of familiarity. Both train journeys took about 1.5 hours in total. 

I chose Ashford as my first destination because of its central location in Kent. It would make a good base. I wasn't quite sure how far it would be to the hotel and it was drizzling a little, so I decided on a taxi. The hotel is nice but nothing special.  

I had intended to head down to the restaurant for dinner but as it got closer to 6:00 I felt myself fading. I decided to head straight to bed instead and was out cold the moment my head hit the pillow. 

The flight from Adelaide to Doha was brilliant. Great service, great food and I slept a bit. Just waiting in the lounge before boarding my London flight. I'll write a proper post with all the details when I get to my hotel tonight.  

Well, technically the next stop is Doha. But THEN next stop London!

When the time came to book some of the longer train trips (in order to get advance fares) I realised that some of the journeys would need to change. Fortunately, most of the changes were for the better with less back tracking.

Here's the new map.

Today it's just over three weeks to departure!

It's time for a new adventure. This year I'm going back to England to explore more. I'll also make a short visit to North Wales. Here's the plan with each of the places I will use as a base as well as the regions I want to visit.

Tomorrow it will be exactly 100 days until I head off!

As always, I will be keeping a blog and taking lots and lots of photos. You'll be able to follow me here.