Posts in Europe 2013
Day 19 (part 1): Not a dry eye in the house

The only thing I don't like about cold weather is that it makes my eyes water. So for the first part of the day I constantly appeared as if I was crying as I walked towards the city centre. When I got there I visited two monuments and this time I was crying for real. Quite an emotional morning. But I'll back track and start from the beginning. Today's plan was to head toward Potsdamer Platz and then later in the day visit the Reichstag. I walked a different way and it was nice to take in the shops along the way. All the time I was walking I was drying my eyes from the cold air which became quite annoying.

One place that Em may have been interested in was this museum of surreal industrial objects. Unfortunately it was closed at the time.

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Nearby was some more street art. One of my purchases has been a book of Berlin street art as that's something that has really resonated with me.

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I hadn't planned to visit today but I found myself at the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. I've read about it and seen pictures but neither had prepared me. On approach it just appears like a sea of stone blocks.

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What you don't realize is that once you start walking into it, the ground "sinks" and before you know you disappear beneath the tops of the blocks. You get a feeling of being overwhelmed and of drowning in this sea of humanity. I don't know if that was the intention but that was how I felt.

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It was an extremely emotional experience to wander and meditate on the tragedy. I think it is a fitting memorial.

Nearby is a Memorial to the Homosexuals Persecuted Under the Nazi Regime. While not as striking in appearance this memorial and the stories behind it also moved me, for obvious reasons, and I have to admit it pushed me over the edge.

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I needed some time to pull myself together before I wanted to be seen in public again.

After a little break I made my way to Potsdamer Platz. It's incredible to think that this area was more or less a wasteland divided by the wall just over 20 years ago. The Sony centre is amazing.

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From there I decided to go walking in the outskirts of the city again. This time to the south west. On my way I stumbled across the Bauhaus Museum so I went in and had a look. There was an incredible porcelain exhibition, but we weren't allowed to take photos.

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I needed to be back to the Reichstag by 3:00 for my booking to go up to the dome. Security was very tight but it was well worth the effort. A truly magnificent piece of architecture to top off such a historic building.

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I caught the underground U2 back to the station nearest mine. I'm starting to get the hang of the lines and stations.

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After being overcast and threatening all day blue sky finally poked through for the first time since I've been here.

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I had some dinner to re-group before the opening of the festival of lights (coming in part 2).

Day 18: On top of Berlin

Today I had booked to go to the viewing platform of the TV tower I saw the other day.

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It was a little overcast but the view was still spectacular. The big park in the following picture is where I spent so much of yesterday.

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The church spire in the middle of the following picture is the church at the end of the street where I am staying.

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From there I walked to the DDR museum. It's a very interactive museum of what life was like in East Germany. Really interesting and fun. Next to it were these impressive buildings that form part of museum island ... a concentration of museums on the river.

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All around Berlin at the moment is an exhibition called Diversity Destroyed which commemorates the decline in diversity and culture at the hands of the nazi regime.

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Nearby was this memorial to all those who have died in war. I thought it odd that people were so focused on the sculpture. As good as it was, the space around it moved me more.

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From there I decided to just wander. It wasn't long before I found something for lunch and then this gallery dedicated to the documentation of the atrocities of the nazis ... Topographie Des Terrors. By it was another stretch of the wall.

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From there I decided to keep walking and check out some of the outer areas of Berlin. Autumn is definitely here.

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The walk brought me back to the river which is wider at this point.

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My last stop for the day was the East Side Gallery which is another stretch of the wall that artists have been allowed to use as their canvas.

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And on the other side is currently a photo exhibition (rendered onto the wall) depicting other walls around the world that divide their communities. You don't realize how many there are.

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So once again my feet are sore. I've been walking so much that I've started to get leg cramps. Went to the "chemist" to get some magnesium which should help. Ah, doing everything in a foreign country is interesting. The people are always very nice and usually speak English but I am starting to get sick of being the foreigner.

Day 17: Half way to ...

Today is the approximate half way point in my adventure. On one hand it feels like I've reached half way in no time at all. On the other hand I have done so much that it feels like far longer than two weeks since I left home. This morning I woke up feeling good. I got up reasonably early and booked tickets for some of the sights I want to see. Late morning I headed to the Berlin Wall memorial which was only about 15 minute walk away. On the way I paused to take more pictures of the church at the end of my street.

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When I got to the wall I found it very emotional. The whole area has been set up exceptionally well with lots of information that moved me more than I had expected. What tipped me over the edge were the stories of families separated by the wall. All they could do was arrange to meet on opposite sides and wave to each other. All that heartache to what end?

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I spent quite some time there reading the stories. From there I had decided to go to the central station (Hauptbahnhof) because I needed to reserve my seat for Warsaw to Krakow and I thought that might be the easiest place to do it. I decided to give the Berlin underground a try out to get there.

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I managed to head in the right direction and soon made it to the central station. This is where I arrived on Saturday and will leave next Saturday. It's massive and very new and shiny. My kind of place.

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I got my reservation sorted and decided to head into the centre of the city. I hadn't planned to do that until later in the week but when you're on holidays plans are only suggestions. I took the underground to the Brandenburg Gate. An iconic location. When I arrived it was fenced off but later in the day when I returned it was all open. I savored my walk through it.

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Next to the gate is the Reichstag, the parliament house. I have a ticket to go inside later in the week so today I just walked by.

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Next to the Reichstag is the equally impressive and modern Bundestag.

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Both these landmarks are on the edge of a massive park in the centre of Berlin. As I started walking I noticed the onset of autumn.

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I walked a while to reach the Haus der Kulturen der Welt, a modern gallery on the edge of the park with an amazing roof.

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Nearby there was a bell tower that rang out the time. I'm not sure of the name, if it had one.

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In the distance I could see another memorial so I decided to walk through the park to reach it, not quite realizing how far it was. But it was a beautiful walk.

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I reached the memorial. Because of the cloud cover my pictures are dark so you can't see it all that well.

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I could see detail on the side and I assumed that would be the end of it.

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Only then did I realise you could climb to the top. Lots of steps later (Em, I didn't count them) I was greeted by this view.

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Spectacular! And then there was the climb down and the walk back to the centre of Berlin. I caught the train the last bit home. I have a strong feeling my legs will let me know how much they hate me tomorrow.

Day 16 (part 3): An evening on Zionskirchstrasse

After dinner I curl up in one of the chairs by the window with my glass of wine to watch the world go by. I become a voyeur, but only to the degree that my subjects have allowed me. Across the road on the first floor a woman is busily tidying up. Moving things from one room to another. Clearing a space on the table and cleaning it. Constantly in motion. A man momentarily comes into the room with a plate but quickly turns around and leaves again. The motion continues until she finally pauses at the table setting out plates as he returns with a pot and what looks like the same plate as before. To this point they've both been busy bees working independently. She strikes a match to light a candle. They lean in and slowly kiss before beginning their meal together.

Two floors up there is an incessant flashing. A photographer is working in his studio. He appears to be alone. At one point he jumps up as the flash goes off before hurrying across to check the camera. Experimenting? I saw photographers working downstairs by the entrance when I got back tonight. Maybe it's the same person?

Across the street there is a little cafe that looks as if it just happened one day. There is a constant stream of visitors popping in and out or sitting outside. One last coffee on the way home or drinks with friends. There are always people around. I hear the muffled speech and occasional laugh. Friends catching up, lovers spending time together. Clearly a treasured space by those who know.

Day 16 (part 2): Flea market to Karl-Marx Allee

I wasn't feeling 100% again when I got up this morning so I pottered around, planning until I felt up to going out. Near where I am staying there is a park called Mauerpark and each Sunday they hold a big flea market there that is apparently popular. It only took 10 minutes to walk there and it was both big and popular.

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This is the view along one side of the outside and it was at least 6 rows across. I've never seen a market this big.

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In the market was everything you'd expect and most of it really good. I bought a couple of things and had something to eat. I probably spent nearly and hour and a half constantly walking. I bumped into Eric and Sue from Toronto who were the couple I met at Hanover station as we were trying to find our ways to Berlin. It was nice to be able to chat a little more with them.

Along the side of the market there were various excellent performers entertaining the crowds.

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Though the course of the day I've noticed some very derelict buildings nestled in between the normal apartment blocks. I guess they're waiting their turn to be renovated (or knocked down).

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I loved the art on these buildings.

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Walking back to the apartment I navigated the undulating footpaths. They are often paved with this random material.

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After a re-group back at the apartment I headed out to see how close I was to the centre of the city. Turns out I'm about the same walking distance as I was in London. Awesome! Having said that, I've purchased my 5 day "welcome to Berlin" card which gives me free public transport anyway.

One of the sights I wanted to see was the TV tower. I can see it clearly from my apartment. It's a very imposing sight.

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The queue to get to the observation deck was crazy so I decided to wait. I think I'm able to book tickets online which should be easier. Near the tower is Alexander Platz which had a German folk thing happening. I don't know if it's permanent or not but it seemed a bit too touristy for me. I didn't look around too much.

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My next destination was Karl-Marx Allee which was the massive boulevard built by the east Berliners in epic communist style. Along the way I encountered some amazing mosaic facades.

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Karl-Marx Allee appears to be a shadow of its former self. Still wide and grand but not much is happening along it. But you can imagine how it would have been used in the cold war era for displays of power.

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The view back to "west" Berlin was interesting.

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Oh, and I nearly forgot. By the TV tower is a tall hotel where they offer base jumping as an activity. Here's one brave soul on the way down.

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Well, that was a big day of walking and my feet hurt. I think I might relax in a bath tonight. Tomorrow's plan will depend on the weather.

Day 16 (part 1): Misty morning in Berlin

After yesterday's challenges I made it to the apartment only a couple of hours later than planned. When I first saw the area I must admit it looked a bit run down and I was a little concerned. It was nothing like the areas I'd stayed in London or Amsterdam.

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But on closer inspection I noticed the streets were teeming with young people and families, some cool shops and great little restaurants. The area is Prenzlauer Berg and it was on the east side of the wall. I think I'm going to like it here.

Last night the streets were busy with people. Europeans love keeping their curtains open though.

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The apartment itself is pretty much as advertised. I love how much light there is and it's not noisy like London was. And there's a lift! I'm on the fourth floor.

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Here are some pictures from my balcony. You can just make out the misty weather which is starting to clear now.

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I'm just taking time to have my breakfast and roughly plan for the week. I've booked my visit time to the Reichtag and I've been checking weather reports to gauge which days will be best for outdoor walking. I will post today's adventures in part 2.

Day 15: The downside of train travel

When I woke this morning it all seemed so simple. I'd get to Amsterdam Centraal station in plenty of time then travel to Berlin in comfort with one train change at Duisdorf. Simple, yes? I got to the station early as planned but my train wasn't showing on the board. So I went to the information desk and asked the gentleman about my train. His first comment was "you have a long journey ahead of you". I thought Berlin was quite a long way so I smiled and agreed "yes". Then the kind man proceeded to explain that, due to work on the tracks, trains from Germany were stopping at the border and not Amsterdam. He then proceeded to very kindly write down where I needed to go ...

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I realised what he had meant. OK. I can manage that. Problem was that the first train was running 10 minutes late which meant I missed the second train and was stuck at Hilvensum. Looking at the timetable I'd have to wait at least an hour for the next train to Deventer.

Also studying the timetable was a woman I recognized from the station in Amsterdam. She had luggage so I plucked the courage to ask her if she was going to Berlin. She wasn't. But her English was excellent and she told me we were headed the same direction. When the next train headed vaguely in the right direction arrived she spoke to the conductor and worked out a quicker route with a couple more changes. That all worked and I ended up at Deventer for the next part of the adventure and had a really lovely chat with the woman. She was heading to a hiking trail for the weekend.

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When I asked at the station the man told me I'd have to catch this bus then change at ... and then at ... and then at ... to get to the next stop and I could feel myself crumbling inside when a woman said "no, just wait until the next bus direct to Bad Bentheim". I have to admit the place name sounds ominous but I liked her advice and waited for that bus. It arrived and an hour later we crossed the border into Germany and arrived at Bad Bentheim (which, for the record, didn't look all that bad at all).

There was a train waiting but not the one I was booked on. The person at the station was a bit confused about my ticket but told me to just get on board. I did so and the train took me to Hanover. They told me I could change there for Berlin. When I got to Hanover there was a short moment of confusion where I met some other equally confused travelers to Berlin. Finally I got onto the Berlin train, in first class where my ticket had been and was able to treat myself to a refreshment.

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That train took me all the way to Berlin!

But along the way I still got to see and enjoy lots of interesting scenery. I was surprised how much open space there is between cities in Holland and Germany.

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It's been a hell of a day, but still lots of fun. I'm impressed with myself at how calmly I handled it all. Will tell you about where I'm staying in Berlin next time. For now I need to decide whether to go out, or fall into bed!

Day 14.9: Good night Amsterdam

As I haven't been feeling well and I leave for Berlin early in the morning I'd decided not to go out tonight. I just didn't feel like it. And although I want to experience as much as I can on this trip I don't believe in forcing yourself just for the sake of it. So I headed off to bed early. Around 11:30 I awoke to the distant sounds of music and people. It captured my attention. I still didn't feel like immersing myself in it, but I was interested in observing the nightlife. So I got dressed and headed out, just for a short time. At nearly midnight the streets were still busy with people going from one place to another. Small groups walking together or sitting by the canals talking. I headed to one of the gay streets to check out what the bars I had heard of were actually like at night and they were busy. Bursting out of their small venues and spilling into the streets. On another day I would have ventured in, but tonight I kept on walking and slowly made my way back to the apartment.

It was only a little journey, but I'm glad I did it. I'm so sleepy now. Good night Amsterdam.

Day 14: FOAM and Stedelijk

Early this morning there was thunder, lightning and heavy rain. My first in a while. I didn't finish up going out last night and this morning I'm glad. I've been feeling off colour for a couple of days and this morning it was a struggle to get up. It would have been a lot worse with a hangover! But I did eventually arise and my first mission was to do a loop of a different part of the city and end at a photographic gallery called FOAM. Before leaving I wanted to take a picture of out the window of my apartment into the cute back gardens of the adjoining buildings.

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On my journey I came across a massive tulip bulb market.

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The stalls stretched all the way down one of the canals.

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From there I made it to one of the larger canals (you guessed it ... more canal pictures).

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I made it to the FOAM gallery which appears to be connected to the FOAM photographic magazine.

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There were a number of really fantastic exhibitions that I really enjoyed. One was of a series of large format images of quite mundane corners and edges of tacky interiors but the detail and colour palettes was brilliant. Plus my ticket got me entry to the David Bowie by Duffy exhibition that I wanted to see but missed in London due to timing.

After that I headed back to the apartment to regroup. My plan was just to wander a bit more in the afternoon and so I headed in a new direction. Before long I reached this impressive building.

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It is the Rijksmuseum which is the premier art museum of the Netherlands but mainly 15-19th century. Not something I'm all that into. Anyway I wandered the grounds and came across this.

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Then I noticed the reflection of some buildings in the roof of a modern structure and stopped to try and capture it (not very well).

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Only then did I realize this modern structure was the Stedelijk Museum which had been on my to-see list. It's the permanent home of the national museum of modern art - much more my thing. So I stopped to wander around and it was AMAZING! There were some breathtaking photos, pictures and sculptures. In fact I found it far more inspiring than my visit to Tate Modern had been. So glad I stumbled into it.

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Day 13: Walking and Het Scheepvaartmuseum

When I woke this morning it was clear and crisp outside so I got through my breakfast and got ready as quickly as possible so I could enjoy the weather. By the way, I am really enjoying all the fresh berries for breakfast.

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By the time I got out the door is was 8:30 and much more quiet than it had been the previous afternoon. Much better for strolling and taking more (canal) photos. Just when you think you have captured THE perfect vista another one appears round the next corner.

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I made my way toward Het Scheepvaartmuseum which is a maritime museum. On the way I passed Nemo which is the science museum. It is shaped like the bow of a boat and has an amazing sloped roof terrace that you can walk up to get a great view of the city.

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The maritime museum was set out magnificently with fantastic displays in a beautiful building.

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Two of the most captivating rooms housed collections of globes and navigational equipment.

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On the way back I wandered the streets again, partly to see what I could find and partly to try and re-find a cool t-shirt shop I had seen the previous evening. I passed the canal museum which was on my to-do list so I wandered in for the tour. All the audio visuals I've seen here have been such high quality.

Eventually I found the t-shirt shop and made some purchases. I'm having a quiet dinner in the apartment and re-group. I might hit the town tonight, unless I fall asleep from all the walking first.

The weather today has been the best of any day on my holiday so far. Not the warmest but beautiful and clear blue skies.

Day 12.5: Evening in Amsterdam

Tonight I decided I needed to walk my dinner off so I headed out again around the apartment. As the sun set the streets and canals took on an unexpected beauty. Without a tripod there's no way my camera could capture it but here are my best attempts.

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And I took this little bit of video that partly captures a different aspect. It was just beautiful. This city is really surprising me.

Day 12: From Euro-star to Amster-dame

What a day! I left the apartment in London this morning at 6:30 to get to St Pancras station for my Eurostar train to Brussels then connecting train to Amsterdam. That is, after I managed to re-pack my bags. I haven't bought that much in London but it wasn't fitting anywhere as nicely as when I left Adelaide. St Pancras was immediately familiar from my trip to Paris. Both trains were very comfy and lunch was particularly nice.

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I loved watching the scenery change as we went from London to Kent to France to Belgium and then to Holland. The following pictures are in no particular order.

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And then as we approached Amsterdam I saw my first "real" windmill.

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As comfortable as the London apartment was, where I'm staying in Amsterdam has so much more character. The owner greeted me and she has everything organized along with a few food and drink treats. The front door is the small black door in the centre of this picture.

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This will be a very comfortable home for the next few days ... if I don't kill myself on the stairs of course.

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As soon as I settled in I went wandering. I must admit the city has surprised me. There are so many great little shops and boutiques. Every street I walked down was teeming with activity. I can't wait to get out exploring more tomorrow after a good sleep.

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On the way back to the apartment I went to the supermarket to buy my supplies. I've forgotten how challenging (but fun) this can be in a foreign country. Now, did I actually buy what I thought I did? I'll let you know tomorrow.

Day 11: The Royal treatment

I leave for Amsterdam tomorrow so I didn't want to waste today. I got myself on a train to Hampton Court to visit the palace. It was another good opportunity to see what's outside of central London and I'm still captivated by the uniformity of the towns on the way. Unfortunately I failed to capture some of the best sights, but this one is still reminiscent.

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Before entering the palace I took the time to take in the view down the Thames.

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The palace was fascinating and really well presented. I spent a couple of hours walking through the various rooms, chambers and gardens. I met an American couple as we tried to navigate ourselves through the maze. Safe to say we managed to get out alive. Certain my photography skills would fail to do the inside justice, I limited my photo taking to mainly outside.

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On the way home I decided to go to Picadilly Circus as we'd missed it last time. Along the way I walked though Green Park and stopped for some lunch (while keeping a keen eye out for manic squirrels).

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So tomorrow I leave London, which is only made bearable by the knowledge that I will come back in a few week's time. All the same, I've had to resort to chocolate and vodka to get me through tonight.

Day 10: Wandering the streets (in a good way)

It was a big weekend. So today (Monday) I decided just to wander some more. It was a lovely day ... still t-shirt weather for me despite how many other people appeared to be rugged up in coats.

I thought it would be nice to take some shots of the Thames looking blue instead of the brown colour earlier in the week.

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I saw this poster on the steps down from the bridge.

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I thought I'd try to take a more interesting photo of Big Ben.

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I made my way to Trafalgar Square. Last trip it had been partially blocked off so it was good to see it all this time.

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Holborn underground station is on this corner. My apartment is only 10 minutes walk away to the left of the picture.

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Sign on a London bus!

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On one of my many trips on the tube I saw a poster advertising Peter Gabriel in concert. I checked and it coincides with my return to London so I got myself a ticket. Looking forward to it.

Day 9: (Not) Unsound London night 4, Horse Meat Disco instead

After a very late one Saturday night I was a bit slow to get myself together Sunday morning. It was Bec and Brock's last full day in London so Emma had arranged lunch at a restaurant (at the very respectable time of 2pm). The place was close so I walked and took yet another opportunity to take in London. After a great roast lunch and lots of chatting and laughing I wandered back to the apartment. Most of the time it would feel like I could be walking streets anywhere until a landmark building like St Paul's would come into view reminding me that this was London ... and another "pinch me" moment!

I had planned to visit a bar that holds a night called "Horse Meat Disco" on a Sunday night and this would be my only opportunity. The crew have played at Sugar in Adelaide but I was traveling interstate at the time. I heard it had been brilliant. So I had a nap to try and recharge my batteries. After the nap, though, I wasn't so sure I could muster the enthusiasm. Luckily I made up my mind and decided to just do it ... I was more likely to regret not going. And I'm SO glad I did. The music was just about exclusively 70s and 80s disco ... but definitely not cheesy ... and perfect for dancing on a Sunday night. And the bar was nicely busy with a varied and friendly crowd. I haven't danced that much in a very very long time. So much fun!

Oh, and although the night was also Unsound London night 4 I decided not to go. I wouldn't have been able to do both, and I'll get the chance to see most of the artists in Poland anyway. I think it was a great decision.