Posts tagged Poland
Day 31 (part 3): From Krakow to Peter Gabriel

As I was sitting in the O2 I had a moment. The same time the night before I'd been sitting in the Krakow Philharmonic listening to abstract, avant-garde pieces for Unsound and now, only 24 hours later, I was in the massive O2 London waiting to watch and hear Peter Gabriel. Not bad. I feel very privileged. And I feel proud of myself for getting off my bum and pulling this all together. So, back to the beginning.

I left Krakow quite early yesterday and made my way to the station to catch the airport train. I was flying back to London. My swollen luggage was a challenge and I thought I'd injured myself. Luckily I've recovered.

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I got to the airport in plenty of time and had to wait until I could offload my bags. That done it was just a matter of waiting. I noticed a couple of fellow Unsound-ians in the queue.

Krakow airport is quite small for such a large city. Seemed much smaller than Adelaide. They are doing a massive development though, so that probably won't be for long. A bus took us to our plane. I had paid a little extra to get a good seat near the front and had both a window seat and no one else in the row!

Taking off I could see all the small hamlets of houses in the outskirts of Krakow. They were clustered in the small valleys and depressions. Large roofs and timber. I wish I could have taken photos. By the time I could get my camera we were up in the air going over another Polish city. Not sure which one it would be.

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The middle of the flight was over clouds so there wasn't much to see. However, I was amazed how many other planes were in the skies. You don't often see others when flying in Australia.

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I flew easyJet and I'd been nervous because of the TV show. Thought they might be a bit rough. They were wonderful. I would definitely fly with them again.

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As we approached the English Channel the skies cleared a little. That made me happy. As we approached the English coast I noticed farms of wind turbines in the sea.

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Unfortunately when we got to the coast I needed to turn my camera off. Damn! Because the countryside was absolutely stunning! Green fields, hedges, small towns with stone cottages, farms, everything you imagine the south of England to look like. I've missed that on previous flights so I was so pleased to see it this time.

By the time I cleared border control, caught the Gatwick Express to Victoria station then a taxi to the hotel it was already 4:00. Time to clean up and work out how my plan of attack for the evening. The last few days I'm staying in a small boutique hotel around the corner from Soho square. The room is tiny but really well appointed. The hotel is very recent and it feels clean and fresh. It will be perfect for the end of my trip.

After a shower I worked out which tubes to take to get there. I decided to go straight away and get dinner there. Yay, travel on the underground again. Don't know why but I've really enjoyed making my way around here. Last night was very busy though. But that's all part of it I guess.

I made it to the O2 while it was still light so I could take some pictures. The website made a big deal about cameras so I had to make do with my phone.

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I had dinner at one of the restaurants. One of the very few times I've dined out alone this trip and now I know why. Boring and the odd one out. Plus I'd left my reading glasses behind so I couldn't even occupy myself reading the program. So glad I hadn't tried to do this more. I have to say, though, it's been so nice to be able to speak in English and ask for things, respond, etc confidently. Having said that, my waiter had such a broad South American accent I still struggled to understand him a little. Hilarious.

Inside it was a long wait but the venue filled slowly.

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All the equipment is from sound plus a film crew. They would film the two London nights and there will hopefully be a DVD coming out.

As support act, Peter Gabriel introduced his two backup singers who performed some of their own music. I thought Jennie Abrahamson in particular was amazing and I'll be checking her music out online.

Before Peter came on to play the film director addressed the audience. Firstly he needed to explain that there was one song they wanted us to film on our mobiles and upload to the website. They plan to use the footage in the film. Secondly they needed to film some audience participation scenes so we all got to be actors for a few minutes. My only slight criticism of the evening was actually that you could almost feel you'd paid to come and be an extra on Peter Gabriel's movie set. The film crew were a little invasive at times. But, I'd pay to be an extra on a Peter Gabriel movie set, so I guess I shouldn't complain!

The show was amazing. He started playing some acoustic numbers before getting into darker and more electronic territory which is when the amazing visuals started to kick in. A benefit of having a film crew on site was that it was clear the show was being staged for film and the side screens and back screens had amazing live visuals built from the vision being taken at the time. It was almost like looking at a finished, edited movie ... but live.

The last part was the band playing the entire "So" album start to finish. Brilliant! They put in an amazing performance with no break. Here are some quick snaps from the program just to give a taste for what the staging looked like. I'll be keeping my eyes out for the DVD for sure.

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I had considered going out afterwards, but by the time I took 2 tube lines back to the hotel it was getting late. There will be time another night.

Day 31 (part 1): Farewell Krakow

Today I fly back to London and I leave Krakow with very mixed feelings. The city is beautiful and I really enjoyed seeing it. The music festival was a great experience and I think it succeeded in giving me some new artistic perspectives, which was one of my goals.

But I'm disappointed in the potential I failed to unlock. I won't beat myself up about it though, it was always going to be a big challenge in a strange city with language barriers thrown in.

What the trip has done is firm my resolve to seek help when I get back, start taking baby steps at home and who knows, when I next return to Unsound Krakow (and I will return), things may turn out differently.

Day 30 (part 3): And that was downright trippy

Last Unsound performances. Held at Krakow Philharmonic - a large concert hall maybe 1 1/2 times the size of Adelaide town hall. First performance. A guy with some electronics and field recordings. Plus a pianist, violinist, tuned percussionist and tenor sax player I think. Field recordings play, giving a feeling of open space, maybe a forest, nothing distinct. Musicians creating dreamy textures. Dappled images of leaves or similar projected onto the back of the stage. I actually almost nod off at first but that's probably fall out from last night. I regain my focus and find it mesmerizing. The subtle interplay of electronic and "real" instruments works well.

Second performance. A guy with a guitar and some electronics. Plus a drummer with standard drum kit and a 12 piece string section. Guy with guitar starts making sounds. Drummer comes in with a light cymbal rhythm. The strings come in but indistinguishable as strings. Actually making sounds I've never heard before. Guy with guitar and drummer intensify. Turns into a full on jazz/rock improvisation but with electronic drones instead of electric guitar. Every now and then the strings come back in, but again with sounds unlike strings. Almost atonal. Pretty amazing, unlike anything I have ever heard. Not sure I liked it, but I really enjoyed the experience.

Leaving the hall it's the last time I'll see so many faces I have come to recognize, for people I have not come to know. Probably some really interesting people. I've lost the opportunity now. I'm very disappointed with myself.

Back at the apartment. One last tidy up before heading to bed. I have to be up earlyish to get to the airport.

Day 30 (part 2): Now that was magical!

Performance number 1 tonight was Pantha du Prince & The Bell Laboratory. The concert was in a hall at the engineering museum. The stage was set with all manner of tuned percussion, including a carillon.

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The place was packed ... and boiling. When they started the 6 musicians came out bell ringing, dressed in what could be laboratory coats but not in a sterile or cheesy way, in an intentional and matter of fact way. They played a haunting melodic tune that floated over the audience. Then they retired to their positions on the stage.

As well as tuned percussion there was a full drum kit which I think was augmented with electronic beats. From the soft introduction they slowly built into a magnificent rhythm that was quite unexpected but really infectious. They played all of their various instruments to great effect and managed to whip the audience up into a gyrating mass.

Toward the end of their performance they returned to bell ringing and slowly walked off the stage and through the audience. You could hear the gentle ringing as the wove their way through the crowd. It was quite magical. They made it back to the stage to receive a massive applause. Obviously we clapped enough because they treated us to another energetic and rousing piece before finally ending their set.

Day 30 (part 1): Dealing with the impending end

Today is the last day of Unsound and my last full day in Krakow. Tomorrow I fly back to London for a few days before flying home. I've been organizing myself today. Checking details, checking in, starting to re-pack. I'm so glad I have Peter Gabriel and dinner with Emma and Sibs still to look forward to in London. I have mixed emotions. Obviously I don't want this adventure to be over. But it has to end. The upside is that I know returning home means I can get started on fixing some of the things I know I need to fix.

Two performances ahead of me tonight. I'm looking forward to both. There is a closing party but I don't think I'll go. Last night was a big one and I don't think I should push it. It would be different if I were here with friends.

I must admit I am so looking forward to returning to English speaking society.

Day 29 (part 3): That was fun!

Final club night for Unsound back at Hotel Forum. Nap, good meal, caffeine and off I go. Three rooms. Two small ones and one massive room overlooking the castle with 4 massive screens showing live visuals. Brilliant sound, awesome music. Wander to the next room if you want a change. Recognize enough people to nod hello occasionally.

Dance dance dance wander dance dance oh wow dance dance wander dance dance dance little rest dance dance ah dance dance wander dance little rest dance dance is that the time all ready?

Sign by the road says 3.6 degrees! Warm in my coat though. Dragon breath. Stop for kebab on the way back.

Home 3:00 am. Happy. Not bad for an oldie.

Day 29 (part 2): That was insane

I thought this afternoon was going to be a couple of hours of noise in a dreamy kind of chilled out way. It certainly started that way with Robert Piotrowicz sounding much better than he had in London. I don't know the name of the second artist as there was a late change. He picked up where Robert left off and turned the noise into some amazing beats ... I'd call them slightly a-rhythmic ... don't know if that makes sense though.

Then last was Pete Swanson (USA). He came out all guns blazing with this cacophony of beats and noise. Shortly after starting half the crowd came up onto the stage so they were madly dancing and jumping up and down all around him. It was infectious. Full on. I stood from the sidelines. That was close enough.

What a way to spend the afternoon.

I'm going to bed now for a nap. I intend to catch the final club night tonight so I need to recharge my batteries.

Day 29 (part 1): What the last 24 hours have reminded me

The last 24 hours have been a bit of an emotional roller coaster. A good sleep has helped somewhat. But a couple of other things made the biggest difference. I listened to my iPod, to the music I most enjoy. I felt a noticeable shift in mood almost immediately. And today I went walking to take pictures of the key venues. Along the way were some really interesting sights that I paused to capture. Again, I noticed a definite shift in mood as soon as I engaged my critical eye.

So music and being creative. Two sure fire ways to lift my spirits. It should come as no surprise. I do forget from time to time though.

So as I haven't been taking photos at performances I wanted to at least photo the venues. First up was St Catherine's church where Thursday night's performances had been. Hopefully you can get an idea of how massive the interior was.

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Next was the Tempel Synagogue where Wednesday night had been held. Unfortunately the austere outside gives no indication of the richly decorated interior, especially the elaborate ceilings.

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Nearby was the engineering museum. I haven't been to a performance there yet, but there will be one tomorrow. They were in the process of covering up the windows and setting up audio inside.

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On the other side of the old town was Kijow Centrum, the cinema where last night's performances had been, including the incredible laser show. I retraced my steps today and I had been so close all along!

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You can't see it so well, but this is the Narodowy Stary Teatr where Dean Blunt performed last night.

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Lastly, this is the entrance to the space where the artist talks have been.

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Along the way there were many interesting sights. Here are my favorites.

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And I took this as a personal sign for me.

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Day 28: Smoke and mirrors (well smoke machines and lasers to be precise)

Despite having some grey moments, I still saw some really cool things yesterday. The weather was drizzly at first so I stayed inside in the morning. At midday I went to a presentation on technology and artist rights. It was a very well put together presentation and he drew some interesting parallels with different technological advances over the ages. But he didn't present an awful lot I wasn't already aware of and left a few things open ended. Curiously, he ended with a quote from Douglas Adams that went kind of like this:

Technology that exists when you are born is natural. Technology that comes along from birth until you're 35 is new and exciting. Technology that comes along after you're 35 is against the natural order of things.

It's an interesting quote and I think the principle can be applied to a few things. I know some people who appear to behave this way. But I know just as many people who don't.

First performance of the evening was Dean Blunt presents The Redeemer. I don't know much about Dean Blunt other than he is part of Hype Williams. The press indicated that this performance would be a departure from his usual work and it would be primarily a vocal/lyrical piece he wrote after the breakup of a relationship. The venue was a theatre in the old town. A couple from the UK sat beside me so I plucked the courage to chat with them a little. Before long the smoke machines had been engaged and the theatre was filled with a fog and the stage was darkly lit. It remained this way for most of the performance and he sang from the shadows on the stage. Musically I liked it. The music was very loud, which was great for the music but it did mean that I found most of the lyrics unintelligible. That was a shame.

Shortly afterwards there was another performance at a venue I hadn't been to yet. I gathered my bearings and worked out where I would have to go. It looked easy so I didn't take my phone or reading glasses. When I got to where I thought I needed to turn off, none of the street names were familiar and without my phone or glasses I struggled to work out where I was. I tried getting assistance from bystanders. A few didn't speak English. The two that did gave me completely contradictory directions and appeared to find it difficult to point out where we were on the map I had! By this time I was starting to feel really lost and worried that I would miss the first performance. Then, the last person I spoke to indicated that the venue was very close. I walked a very short way in the direction he pointed and there it was. It had been in sight all along! Doh!

After composing myself I settled in for the performances. The venue was a cinema with a massive screen and stage area in front. First was Dream Cargoes. I had attended the artist talk the previous day which helped. It was a visual project with live music being played on a combination of electronics and string quartet. The work was inspired by the story of the same name by J. G. Ballard. The artist talk allowed me to make some sense of the visuals but the ending came so abruptly I was a bit stumped. How did they get that out of what they explained the other day? Oh well, it was still great though.

Next up was a new work, Lumiere, by Robert Henke. I was really looking forward to this. This is what the program said:

Lumiere is a radical sonic experience with a massive yet ephemeral visual counterpoint. Two powerful lasers draw shapes and ultra short pulses of light, whilst an autonomous audio engine creates rhythmic structures, grids of bass and spectral noise.

It was exactly that. Amazing! Jaw droppingly intense and hypnotic. Words just can't describe any more. The man is a genius.

There was another club night at Hotel Forum but I had already decided not to go. I needed a reasonably early night and I'll go to the Saturday night one instead.

So now I knew where I was I took the time to casually walk back to the apartment through the old town which was heaving with activity on a Friday night.

Post Script to "Easier said than done"

So I put on my iPod and start walking with a sullen expression and a dark cloud floating above me. Then I hear a song. I won't say which, but instantly I remember Jerome, from London, and the time we shared. I doesn't make me feel any less lonely, but for the first time today I smile. Such is the power of music over me. Makes sense that I'm here then, doesn't it?

Easier said than done, today at least

Today the feeling of isolation and loneliness is overwhelming. I'm just tired. I know that has a lot to do with it. Not everything, but a lot. In Poland the (lack of) language is getting to me. I'm drowning in a sea of speech that sounds quite beautiful but remains incomprehensible to me. People have generally been good. I've managed to get by and do the essentials. Then every now and then there is a man or woman at the supermarket or shop who continues to spout mouthfuls of Polish to me when it's perfectly clear I don't understand a single word. The paranoid in me thinks they're enjoying it, but I'm really not mad at them ... it just makes me feel dumb, ignorant.

So I know, the solution is obvious. I'm at a week long festival where the primary language at events is still English and a large number of people are from the UK. No need to be lonely. Well, I'm finding that easier said than done, especially this week. The conversations I have had have been mainly due to the willingness of others to approach me rather than the other way around.

I find it hard, at the best of times. It's weird, simultaneously wanting to have a conversation and being scared of being consumed by it at the same time. I don't know how many people understand how much energy it takes a person like me to be social. It doesn't come naturally and it takes it out of me. And now in my sleep deprived state I just don't have the strength or courage to brave another attempt at communication not knowing how difficult, easy, rewarding or defeating it will be.

So I put on my headphones. For a little while I'd like to drown out the foreign nouns, adjectives, verbs and replace them with the ones more comfortable and familiar that live on my iPod. I know this isn't going to stop the loneliness, but I suspect that may be a whole other story anyway. One not tied to location or language.

Day 27: A mixed bag

After the euphoria of "walking" home from the sleep concert the rest of the day, for me, was a bit of a mixed bag. I took my time getting organized in the morning. I wasn't all that sleepy, but I was ultra chilled. My first activity was to attend an artist talk for a performance coming up tonight. On one hand it was a bit odd listening to the artists explain something I knew nothing about, but on the other hand I think their explanations will help me make better sense of what I will see. I'll explain more tomorrow.

I'd intended to hang around for the next talk but felt the need for a quick nap to keep me going.

I returned a bit later to attend the artist talk from Robert Rich, master of the sleep concert. He was fascinating to listen to. His main area is sleep psychology ... music was more of a sideline, at least initially. He talked about the history behind the sleep concerts which he began in 1982 and elaborated a bit more on the intention behind last night's event. The real intent behind the concerts is to encourage people to listen closely to the music and focus on the tiny details. The only way Robert had been able to work out how to get people to sit and do that for long enough was to give them permission to sleep if they wanted ... hence the sleep concert.

The effect of having continuous aural stimulation for that long is that it prevents the listener from attaining deep sleep, but instead keeps them in the first stage of sleep where it's easier to recall details of the thoughts and images that appear in your head. I can attest to that with the details I was able to recall from my dreams.

While waiting to go in I chatted to a while with a chap from Holland. This is his third Unsound festival. I've been thinking that this probably won't be my last.

After some dinner I headed to the first evening event. It was a concert of two performances at a massive church, St Catherine's. The cavernous interior of the church was ideal for the styles of music being played tonight. Both involved heavy use of "loop pedal" technology to build up intricate evolving patterns and layers of vocals and instruments. I could appreciate the beauty of both artists. However, music created this way usually ends up being limited to a very narrow range of notes or chords, much like a round. This is partly a necessity due to the technology. For me, listening to piece after piece limited to such a narrow range of notes became monotonous. Strangely, earlier in the week I was really engaged in listening to "drone" music which was almost monotone. There is a difference but I can't quite put my finger on it yet. I left before the end of the second performance.

Afterwards was the first of what have been labelled the "club" nights back at the Hotel Forum. I decided to head there. The vibe was very different to the earlier night with heavy beats already pumping inside as the long queue patiently waited outside. I recognized many faces from events in the previous few days but it appeared we were to be joined by an equally large number of others, mostly younger.

I stayed to listen to two bands. Tralala Blip are from Australia and their brand of chaotic electro beats was really good. I loved their sound and aesthetic. They were followed by James Ferraro (USA) who's music was intense and dark with a lot of spoken voice lines repeated over thick bass lines and not so much rhythm. I liked it too. Forest Swords (UK) who I saw at Unsound London were next. I stayed to listen for a while but I wasn't really feeling it and I wasn't really enjoying the vibe of the place in general either. On reflection this morning I think maybe it was just tiredness but at the time the crowd felt a little aggressive to me so I decided to leave.

Day 26 (part 3): To sleep, perchance to dream

I've just floated back to the apartment after what must be the most incredible sensory experience of my life. Last night was the sleep concert. It began at midnight and continued through until 8:00 this morning. It was held in the main reception room of the Hotel Forum, an unused communist era hotel. We arrived in the dead of night with our sleeping bags, blankets, pillows and supplies. The room was softly lit. It was a large space and there would be 150 of us. We shuffled in and found our preferred spaces. I was there quite early so I found a great spot along one of the large windows. I could see the castle lit across the river. It would be a great scene to wake up to.

The music began on the stroke of midnight after a brief introduction and explanation by the artist, Robert Rich. I'm not sure to what extent he was playing or mixing but essentially he would be creating a unique performance for that night ... for 8 hours! I guess you'd call the music new agey. On its own you might even call it cheesy, at least to start with, but the sound system was great and there was depth to the music. It wasn't loud but it wasn't soft either. Through the night the music morphed and changed, melody turned to drone and back, subtle sounds came and went. Sometimes identifiable like dripping water or waves, sometimes indistinguishable.

I drifted in and out of light sleep. The sleeping bag was perfect and I was warm and so comfortable. We had been warned that we probably wouldn't fall into deep sleep. The music was too present and constant to allow for that. So we were kept in a half sleep state all night long.

At some point I put on my eye mask to help focus on the music. That was a great move because, to my surprise, when I removed it after what felt like a short doze the morning had arrived and I could just see the castle through the mist outside and heavy condensation on the windows. The last half an hour of the concert I lay awake. I may not have slept deeply but I felt more relaxed and refreshed than I can remember feeling in the morning for ages. I even felt a little joyously teary for a moment as I reflected on the amazing experience this room of strangers had shared.

As for dreaming, I can't say to what extent the experience affected my consciousness, but here's what I do remember:

I am a set of keys and I'm running away from my owner. At first it's more like a game of cat and mouse. I'm good at it. Every time he nearly catches me I dart away and escape. It starts getting more serious. He is chasing me more intently and I have to work harder to get away. And I do. I manage to escape and get far ahead of him.

I hide in some bushes and watch him. He's getting upset now, even distraught. He staggers into a nearby police station. I laugh to myself. "He's going to tell them that his keys have run away but keys can't run. They'll think he's been drinking and turn him away". But they don't turn him away. They listen intently and console him. They lead him inside and I think they believe him. I start to feel worried.

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Day 26 (part 2): Modern meets tradition

One night, two Unsound events. First was "Ripple Eecfft" (no typo). A more classical program performed in an amazingly beautiful synagogue.

The first artists, Kwadrofonik, consisted of 2 pianists and 2 percussionists. They began by playing a number of their compositions ... and I was in love. They reminded me of Kurr in style. The second half of their performance was a 20th century piece that, while technically demanding, didn't really resonate with me. But even so, the combination of their sounds in those amazing and ornate surroundings was still quite sublime.

Second artist at the same event was Stefan Wesolowski. If I thought I was in love before ... then I was mistaken. His band included piano, violin, trombone, tuba, cello and electronics incorporating field recordings. I'm a sucker for strings at the best of times but, combined with haunting soundscapes, this was intensely stirring. I couldn't help but sway to the implied beat of their music. The combination of instruments (and amazing audio) was perfectly balanced. And again the environment enhanced what was already incredible. Half of the time I was taken away with my eyes closed to another place. And then when I opened my eyes I would see the depth, richness, history, tragedy and significance of the place we were so privileged to share. Humble.

I will write about the other event in my next post.

Day 26 (part 1): Waiting for tonight

Today there has been the constant gentle patter of rain all day. It's made it very easy to stay inside and chill out. I did step outside for a little bit though. Walking through the park that surrounds the old town there was still the constant floating of leaves as they fall from trees but this time accompanied by the drizzle making a slightly slushy mixture on the ground. That might sound awful but I thought it was just beautiful. First off tonight is another performance but this time at a nearby synagogue. The music will be a little bit more classically oriented so I'm looking forward to the contrast from the previous nights.

Then, at midnight, it's the sleep concert. This is what the program says about it:

Robert Rich's San Francisco "sleep concerts" of the 1990s were legendary affairs, lasting throughout the night, but he has not performed this way before a live audience since 1996. Rich will work his magic inside the main room of the communist era Hotel Forum, lulling a vast room full of people to sleep, affecting their consciousness with auditory stimuli throughout an entire night.

Day 25: Sleeping bags, floating pigs, a crazy lady and psychedelic punk jazz

I tried my best to lay in again today after another late night. I don't do it so well. Today's big task was to procure a sleeping bag for the sleep concert tonight (Wednesday). There is a large shopping mall not far from here that I thought might contain a sports store or similar. To get there I would need to walk through the Jewish quarter which had been on my to-do list also. I took a couple of pictures along the way.

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For some reason, the house in the middle was the place for pigeons to hang out.

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I've noticed a number of buildings with these types of designs on the facade.

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My journey took me further by the river. The view on the other side was quite beautiful.

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When unexpectedly I came across an upside down pig on the river! I assume it was an artwork but there was no signage.

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When I got to the mall there was one shop that did sell sleeping bags. They are more designed for outside camping so I'm a little worried that I might boil, but at least it should be comfortable.

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That took a lot of the day so when I got back I had another nap to try and get myself ready for another night of Unsound. Today there were some artist talks on in the late afternoon and I decided to go. While trying to find the room where the talks were I got talking to an older lady who is from Krakow but lives in Sydney now. She comes back every year. The first artist talk was by a photographer who has an installation as part of Unsound. The lady wasn't here for Unsound but was interested in the installation. Anyway, we got chatting about stuff but when her friend arrived I offered my seat and moved away. I'm kind of glad. She finished up being quite vocal and actually interrupted the artist with some odd questions. When actual question time arrived she almost criticised the artist for not satisfying her agenda. It was a bit awkward. Which is a pity because he and his work were fascinating. His name is Richard Mosse and the installation is a moving picture work on the ongoing violence in the Congo. It was really interesting to hear his techniques and the people (war lords) he managed to meet with. Ben Frost was involved also and put together the sound track. I'll visit the installation later in the week.

The second artist talk was from a musician Jenny Hval who was performing that evening. She was also very interesting for completely different reasons. It was quite intriguing hearing someone who appeared quite unassuming speak about her music when you have no idea yet what the music is like. I was really looking forward to her performance later on.

After a little dinner I headed to Manggha once again for yet another night of contrasts. First up was Jenny Hval (Norway). Musically she was more conventional than anything I've seen at Unsoud so far but that doesn't mean she was mainstream - far from it. Her music was a kind of pop/rock/punk mix and she sang. Her latest album title is "Innocence is Kinky" so I was a little disappointed I couldn't make out more of the lyrics - I suspect she'd have quite a bit to say. I think I'll check out more of her music online. Anyway, I really enjoyed her performance and the way she interacted with the audience. The crowd obviously loved her too.

Next was Innode (Austria?), two drummers and a guy "playing" electronic rhythms. Their music was entirely rhythmic and pretty much atonal. Quite a contrast from the previous artist. It was good though, I was able to really get into a couple of their pieces.

Last up was Fire! (Sweden) and their artist profile hadn't inspired me so I wasn't sure if I'd hang around. Their music was hard to describe but you could hear elements of psychedelia, jazz, punk, metal all in there working with and against each other. None of those are elements I'm particularly fond of but I'm discovering that the quality of the musicians, sound systems and venues is making a huge difference and I've found myself getting into music I wouldn't usually. So, I quite enjoyed these guys up until the very end when they got into a drawn out jazz improv that for me just became a bit self indulgent so I left.

So musically, each night has been quite different and I've enjoyed each for different reasons. It's just so wonderful to be able to get to evening and rock up at a venue to see what is in store for you, knowing that it's most likely unlike anything you've heard before.

When I left Manggha to walk back to the apartment there were still so many people out and about but a beautiful misty fog had fallen on the city. The castle looked magical as it's towers peered through. As Unsound is a no-photo event I didn't have my camera with me, but even if I'd had it I don't think I would have been able to capture that image faithfully.

Dazed 24

After the very late opening night (or rather early morning), yesterday got off to a very slow start. I didn't wake up until around 9 which is extremely rare for me. Even then I was feeling pretty washed out. Luckily there was nothing major on my to-do list for the day. I have realized that my time in Krakow will probably be more evening/night orientated, so I shouldn't beat myself up if I don't fit much into the days as well. After a late breakfast and journal writing I eventually stepped out to a local shopping centre to get a few things. The weather was overcast and cool. I was feeling a little delirious from lack of sleep which made the journey a little challenging, but that feeling wasn't altogether unpleasant.

I didn't take any photos yesterday - a first for my trip so far.

Late afternoon I had a nap to try and restore my energy levels for the evening's performances.

Last night's shows were at the same venue, Manggha, so I knew how to get there and how long it would take. I felt a lot more at ease than when I had arrived the previous night - partly because the surroundings were now familiar and partly because my sleep deprived state has made me really chilled out (which is a good thing).

All three artists last night played instruments that were then treated and distorted to create unique sounds whereas Sunday had been more sample and synth based.

When I chose not to go to the last night of Unsound London I missed out on seeing Stara Rzeka (Poland) so I was glad to have the opportunity last night. He made heavy use of loop pedals to turn his guitar and vocal sounds into incredible textures that grew and erupted. The program dubbed his style as "magical brutalism" which was apt.

Nate Young (USA) was next and from the sample on his artist profile I hadn't rated him highly on my "to see" list. I decided to sit at the edge of the floor space instead of standing for this one. It's hard to describe his performance. I know I've probably made everything sound like noise, but that's a really big element of most of these artists. This one created big heavy dirty noise sounds and then morphed them and shaped them. I found it unexpectedly hypnotic and was really glad I'd chosen to sit. When he started I was sitting against the wall while most people were standing in front of me and through most of the performance I had my eyes shut. At one stage I opened my eyes to see many of the people in front of me had chosen to sit too and appeared to be in a similar meditative state.

Last was B/B/S which I think was a collaboration of separate artists. There was a guitar, bass guitar and drummer/percussionist. Their performance consisted of what appeared to be one long piece that rose and fell, twisted and turned. They started by using bows to sound cymbals, guitars, everything which created wistful sounds and the performance ended in the same way. In between there was some great rhythms from the drummer and layers of sound and noise from the other players. Some amazing earth shattering bass too - the kind that makes you feel like you just had a full body massage.

Three great performances that I really enjoyed. I was exhausted by the end though. I hope I'm going to make it though this week!

Note: I was unable to put links to the profiles for these artists today. I think the Unsound website might be down. If you're interested in learning of hearing any of the artists visit the www.unsound.pl/en website, click on the Unsound Krakow link at the top of the page and then click on the Artists link.

Day 23 (part 3): From conspicuous to anonymous

Last night was the opening night of the Unsound Festival and it was awesome. Two of the three events I attended in London were musically OK but failed to induce the feeling and atmosphere I experienced at Unsound Adelaide, but last night well and truly did. The performances were at Manggha, a theatre that is the Japanese centre of art and technology on the river. This is a picture I took during the day yesterday.

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First up was Anna Varadny (Poland). I saw her in London but last nights performance and the ambience of the space far eclipsed London. Her music consists of carefully and intricately layered drones and noise that create subtle beating and incredible textures. At the end of her performance as she peeled back those layers I recognized the sensation of coming out of a meditative state! She had taken me on a journey and it was brilliant.

After a short break the next artist was Mika Vaino (Finland). From his artist profile I was really looking forward to hearing him. As the program put it, he "combines force and restrain in his music to form a frightening unity". He was amazing, creating dense rhythms out of industrial scale noise punctuated with unexpected stabs and silence that delighted. The sound system rumbled with deep tones that resonated all through my body. Exactly the sensations I recalled and enjoyed in Adelaide. Definitely the standout of the night for me.

The final act was Tropic of Cancer (USA) and as much as I tried I couldn't get into them. They were much more mellow with massive reverb washed vocals. Not really my thing so I didn't stay to the end. The opening party at a club called Pauza had already started so I decided to go there instead. It was about 10:30 at this stage so I dropped by the apartment on the way for a quick pick me up coffee.

At Pauza there was a succession of artists and DJs playing. The club itself is downstairs and is like a catacomb of brick vaulted ceiling-ed rooms. It was already packed. The first couple of DJs were interesting but I had a feeling I wouldn't be staying long. That was until Philip Sherburne (USA) started. The best techno I have danced to in a long time. Every time I thought my time was up he pulled me in with another hook that got me dancing again. At the end I retired to one of the smaller rooms exhausted and finished up chatting to a guy from Finland in much the same situation as me, on his own. It was great to be able to debrief the evening with some one.

I finally called it a night (morning) at 3:30, grabbing a massive kebab on the walk back to the apartment! Needless to say I'm feeling a little shady today. I'm glad I did so much sightseeing yesterday, it takes the pressure off today.

So what has the title of this post got to do with all this? Well, being at the older end of the age scale of the audience, being solo and not knowing anyone, being an English speaker in a largely foreign speaking crowd ... all these things had made me feel very conspicuous when I arrived at the venue. But somewhere in the evening it dawned on me that all these same attributes also allow me to be anonymous, and that can be a really liberating feeling if I choose to let it be. So I resolved to embrace my anonymity this week.