More London

As you would hope in a hotel like this, I slept really well. The blinds are amazing and when they're down you would have no idea what time it is. Which is just as well since the sun was already rising when I peeked out at 4:30am this morning. I stayed in bed until 7:30am but I'm still feeling very tired.  

I headed down to breakfast overlooking the city. The sun was bright and warm through the windows. People were remarking on the weather so I assume it's not been so good lately. 

I was undecided on what to do today. My original plan had been to visit the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. They have a great collection of planes and it's been on my "to do" list for sometime. Luckily I checked their website because there was an air show on this weekend. That didn't appeal to me for two reasons: 1) it would be super busy, 2) I get a bit freaked out even when they do the fly pass for the Clipsal 500 so I don't think I'd enjoy it. I will leave it until later this week or save for another trip. 

In the end I decided to do a bit of retail therapy. I'm running short on a few clothes. I looked into using the hotel laundry service but realised it would almost cost the same to buy new items. I don't mind spending the money on the laundry service, but if I can get some new things for the same price then I may as well. Arriving in the hotel last night I also noticed the city lights and thought it might be fun to try some nighttime photography. The monopod I brought is OK, but it's not going to keep the camera still enough for long exposure shots. So my plan was also to either buy an extremely lightweight tripod or a cheap one I can afford to leave here. 

I wandered towards Oxford street. The city was quite busy with lots of tourists. The tide was way out on the Thames. As I've noticed on other occasions there were people fossicking around the banks. 

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From this point, on the Millenium Bridge, I could also get a good shot of The Shard. By my calculations, my room is somewhere around the red dot. 

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Oxford Street was very busy. For a long time I was indecisive but finally dived in and found a few things I liked. I popped into the Muji store and spent a while trying to dream up legitimate uses for the array of perfect boxes and containers. And finally, I found a camera store with a great tripod that folds into a very compact size but still has good stability. 

By this time it was starting to rain so I decided to catch the tube back. I caught the Central Line from Tottenham Court to Bank and then the Northern Line from Bank to London Bridge. From there it's a couple of minutes walk to The Shard. 

By this time it was nearly 5:00pm so I fluffed around for a bit and played with my new tripod. I had also originally planned to go to Horse Meat Disco tonight. I've been a couple of times on previous visits and have always really enjoyed it. But last night the rain looked as if it had set in and I was feeling tired and introspective. I decided against it.

I ordered some room service dinner to avoid having to sit in a restaurant alone. The view could be my company. Of course, it didn't just arrive on a tray, did it. 

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After dinner I had a brief feeling of revitalisation and reconsidered going to HMD. It didn't last long though. Instead I utilised my new equipment to get some better quality night shots of London. With the new tripod I was able to take photos with less noise and sharper focus. I'm very happy with the results and will try to get out to do some at street level Monday or Tuesday night. 

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London

I'm finishing my holiday in London because ... it's London. My favourite city. I'm not sure what I'm going to do here. I'm feeling quite exhausted from my adventures, so I might just take advantage of the luxury of my final hotel and just relax.

Speaking of which, when I was looking for London accommodation I had two considerations. Firstly, most of the other accommodation I had secured for the holiday had come in under budget which meant I could spend extra in London. Secondly, all of my previous stays in London have been in relatively modest apartments or hotels with little or no view and very little space. I thought it was time to stay somewhere nicer. When the Shangi-La at The Shard first popped up on Booking.com I giggled to myself and whispered "as if". But then the more I thought about it, the more I couldn't resist the temptation. The appeal was less about the luxury of the hotel and all about the views. I selected a mid price room which would give me a view to the east, missing the major landmarks but still spectacular. To my delight, when I checked in last night they had upgraded me to a north facing room with the perfect view from the Houses of Parliament on the left to St Paul's on the right and the Thames slap bang in the middle. Could not ask for a better view.

I got to the hotel about 9:30pm after catching a taxi from London Kings Cross station. The check-in process was easy and I was personally escorted to my room on the 40th floor. The room is even larger than I had expected. The bathroom alone is nearly bigger than the entire room in the final hotel of my last holiday here! And there are lots of nice touches, like a set of binoculars to check out the sights, a Nespresso machine for the early morning coffee, electronic blinds that do a magnificent job of blocking out the early morning sun (it was light at 4:30am this morning), and even a TV built into the mirror in the bathroom.  

But the main attraction is the view. I could just sit an gaze out the window all day and night. The photos just don't give you the full floor to ceiling panoramic effect of the view.

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Grasmere to London

Today it was time to move on to my final destination in this adventure, London. Unfortunately I didn't plan today's journey very well. I purchased the train tickets first back in March in order to secure advance first class tickets at a good price. I purposely chose trains towards the end of the day so I could maximise my stay in the Lake District by doing an activity this morning. However, when it came to booking a car I found myself having to return the car before 1:00pm because it's a Saturday. That was nearly 3 hours ahead of my train departure. 

As there was very little point in returning the car earlier, I took my time getting ready this morning, aiming to check out close to 11:00am. Packing was the usual challenge and one holiday experience I won't miss. 

I headed back to Carlisle shortly before 11:00am. I decided that I would take the route with major roads this time following the A66 and then the M6. This provided a very easy and pleasant driving experience. 

After returning the car I headed to the train station. I decided to enquire whether I could exchange my tickets for an earlier service. Unfortunately, because I had managed to get such cheap advance tickets in the first place, to change them now would have been ridiculously expensive. Also unfortunately, Carlisle railway station doesn't have any facility for leaving your luggage so you can head off for a bit. My only choice was to wait it out at the station. But at least that was a nice opportunity to read over the notes I've been keeping for this trip and skim through some of the books I've purchased. 

This weekend there is maintenance on the west coast line which seemed to cause some chaos at Carlisle with bus services and announcements going off all over the place. When I first purchased my tickets there had been a note that the service might be affected by maintenance, but luckily for me the east cost line I had selected escaped the works. 

The first train from Carlisle to Leeds departed at 3:49pm. The train arrived in Leeds on time despite having to stop for a fallen branch across the line. At Leeds I transferred to the 6:45pm Virgin Trains service to London Kings Cross.  All up, that's nearly 5 1/2 hours of train travel.

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Funnily, the first train, which was a Northern service, was a very ordinary train but smooth ride. The second train, which was the much swisher Virgin Trains service, was really bumpy. Of course, I think it was a much faster train, but surprising all the same.

Another morning by the lake

There are a number of walks around Grasmere, including ones that take you towards another lake. After yesterday morning's experience I decided to set out on a similar adventure this morning. I was out of the hotel by 5:30am. This time there were a few other people out and about by then, so I didn't feel quite so freakish. This morning was a clear blue sky, so the mist was more patchy. But it created some beautiful effects in the woodlands. 

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Keswick and Latrigg

Before heading off on today's major event I wanted to walk into Grasmere village. I needed to pick up a couple of extra t-shirts as well as look for some acclaimed gingerbread that I'd been told about. I found a shop that appeared to be selling the gingerbread but the shop assistant was upfront and admitted that it wasn't the "famous" Grasmere gingerbread. It was more a ginger shortbread. It still sounded interesting and I was impressed with her honesty so I bought some.

From there I hopped in the car and headed towards Keswick. On the way I planned to stop off to view (lake) Thirlmere if I got the opportunity. Thirlmere is actually a man made reservoir formed from two existing lakes, but is still impressive. A parking spot did present itself along with a short walk to a view point. 

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After that brief interlude I continued on to Keswick. In total it was only about 30 min drive from Grasmere and I was beginning to become familiar with the road. 

First stop in Keswick was a visit to the Derwent Pencil Museum. The Derwent Pencil Factory used to be in Keswick and I believe they used to do factory tours. The factory has moved so I figured the museum would be the next best bet. It has been closed for renovations and today was the re-opening date. It was interesting in that it explained how pencils were manufactured but it was a little bit lightweight. 

After that it was on to the physical activity for the day, and probably the last big walk of the holiday. Latrigg is a viewpoint overlooking Keswick that is meant to be spectacular. I had downloaded a map from the internet that indicated I should be able to walk there and back in about 2 hours. 

As I started the walk I looked at the fell (barren mountain feature) ahead of me and could make out people at the very top (see arrow below). 

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Surely that wasn't where I was going? Not only did it seem like a hell of a hike, I didn't see how I could get there and back in 2 hours. Surely Latrigg must be a lookout part way up the fell?  It wasn't. Latrigg was the summit and the climb was surprisingly manageable. Having said that, it was still hard work.

On the way up I passed some sheep and goats who were, I assume, totally oblivious to their beautiful surroundings. 

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The final stretch of the walk snaked up the side of the fell. 

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And the view at the summit did not disappoint. I provided nearly 360 degree views. The main being Keswick and Derwent Water.

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There were fields, fells and other lakes in other directions too.

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At Latrigg there was a viewing bench occupied by a couple of ladies for the entire duration of my stay at the top. I can only assume that they were determined to make the most of the effort it took to get up there. 

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It was interesting to see the architecture of Keswick from above. 

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Perched at the top of the fell, I reflected on where I was. It was a definite "pinch me" moment and feeling of intense gratitude.

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At the top I met a couple and we exchanged some stories of our ascent as well as adoration for the view.

I spent a good 30-45 min at the top, finishing by taking some photos I hope to be able to stitch into a panorama. Then it was time to descent. Fortunately, a much less strenuous activity. I made it down to Keswick just before 2:00pm. My parking was due to expire at 2:30pm so I topped it up to give me a little time to wander around the town. Quite by chance I made it down to the water's edge. 

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On my way back to the car, the image of these grand houses and the mountains behind caught my attention. 

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On the way back to the hotel I made my second attempt to find the famous gingerbread, having done some extra research. This time I found it. The shop is tiny and adorable (should have taken a photo) and clearly well known with a steady stream of customers. As for the gingerbread, as described it was quite different - hard to describe how - and quite delicious. 

One more night, then the final leg of my holiday down to London. The food at this hotel has been outstanding - the best of the trip so far - but I've definitely felt conspicuous as a solo traveller here. The place is teeming with couples. It makes it a little bit tougher but I haven't let it spoil my time.

Morning by the lake

Last night I had decided to get up early and retrace my walk around the lake to catch some moments. After yet another restless night it was easy to get up just after 5:00am and head out. The lake was draped in mist. By the time I reached them at 5:30am the birds were in full song. I recorded some, but the constant road traffic did hamper my attempts a little. 

A beautifully peaceful way to begin the day. 

(The WiFi isn't very fast here so I'll have to lower the resolution of photos before uploading them while I'm here) 

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There was a lone man fishing in the centre of the lake. 

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Orrest Head and Ullswater

After my peaceful (if early) start to the day I made my plans and headed off in the car. First destination was Windermere to then walk to Orrest Head, a lookout above the village. I managed to find my way there successfully and the driving was relatively easy. 

From the car park my sources indicated it would be a couple of hours walking to and from the lookout so I was prepared for a hike. And although it was quite a hike up the side of the hill, it only took about 30min each way. The view was breathtaking. You could see all of (lake) Windermere which is so long I couldn't fit it into one shot.

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And the views away from the lake were just as beautiful. 

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It was a popular spot, though I realised later that many were in a group together. 

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After Orrest Head, I had decided to visit Ullswater. I would have a couple of choices of activity including boat cruise and walking. I plugged in Glenridding, the town at the bottom of Ullswater, into the sat nav and blindly followed the directions. Soon I realised it was taking me on exactly the kind of narrow, bendy roads I had desperately wanted to avoid. 

But there was no turning back so I decided to go for it. Luckily there wasn't much traffic which certainly reduced the stress. The road was narrow, often walled on both sides and frequently twisting and turning.  Furthermore, it was climbing. I later discovered it was taking me though Kirkstone Pass which is the highest pass open to traffic in the Lake District. Not only was the road treacherous, but in the highest parts there were goats and sheep wandering across and along the road at times. It required massive amounts of concentration. It also epitomised what was hugely frustrating about driving today. I knew I was driving through breathtaking scenery, I could sense the views all around me, but I dare not take my eyes off the road for a second.

Luckily on this occassion, there was a parking stop at the top of the pass which allowed me to get some shots. The road I had driven on is the winding one in the distant middle of the picture. 

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After pausing to take photos I continued on and made it to Glenridding. By this time it was coming up to 1:00pm. The weather was sunny and very warm. I decided against walking and settled on a cruise on the lake instead.  The next cruise was at 2:20pm so I wandered and had some lunch while I waited.

The cruise was very nice, with great scenery, but I must admit it wasn't that dissimilar to the Windermere cruise I did last year. I got a little bored towards the end. 

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There was a smattering of sailing going on. 

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Our boat was in the same style as this other one we passed. 

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At Howtown there were lots of children engaged in various activities. I assume it was some kind of scouting site or similar.

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Near the end of the cruise we passed this guy. He was a fair way into the middle of the lake paddling along. He handled the wake from our boat expertly. 

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The cruise ended about 4:45pm. I decided it was time to get back to the hotel. When I punched Grasmere into the sat nav it was going to take me back through the Kirkstone Pass. There was no way I was going that. So I did some research of my own. By asking the sat nav to go via Troutbeck it picked a different route that appeared to be better, if a little longer. Of course, I wouldn't know until I started. 

Turns out it was a much better route and for the most part very easy. It still required massive concentration and I was still teased by epic scenery in my peripheral vision. I'm going to plan to see some of it properly tomorrow. 

As I wandered on my early morning walk I reflected on how I was feeling. Obviously, I'd love to stay in the UK longer, but I think by next week I will feel ready to return home. It feels like I have been away for much longer than 4 weeks. 

Grasmere

I stayed in the Lake District last year and definitely wanted to return to explore a bit further afield. I decided a more central location might be nice and a car would expand my options. Unlike just about every other destination on this trip I don't really have a definite list of places to see yet. I'm hoping it will be easy to find some places I can drive to then do some walking. 

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The hotel I selected is a little bit different to where I stayed last year. It's a bit more spa/resort and less character and charm. Having said that, it will be lovely. I have a great view of the lake from my window that I look forward to waking up to.  This is pretty much that view.

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After checking in, I headed out for a walk. The hotel is on the edge of (lake) Grasmere and I was hoping I might be able to walk all the way around. To my delight there is a walking trail that takes you most of the way and you can follow roads for the rest.

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The other side of the lake gave me a good view of the hotel. 

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The water in the lake is crystal clear. I saw someone swimming across it as I walked around. 

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My plan is to get up early one morning and do a circumnavigation to catch the early morning light. 

Scarborough to Grasmere

To my surprise my legs felt OK this morning after yesterday's trek. Today was a travel day so I needed to be up early. I had a rotten night's sleep, so that was quite easy. I took at taxi to the train station well in time to catch my 8:50am Trans-Pennine Express to Leeds. This was the same route I took to get to Scarborough. From Leeds I caught the 10:49am Northern service to Carlisle. 

The weather in Scarborough had been mild with blue sky. From Leeds it got grey and chilly before finally clearing up at Carlisle.  

The countryside started with the familiar fields before changing to a more barren landscape in the Yorkshire Dales and then returning to more pastoral.

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I arrived in Carlisle around 1:30pm. Next task was to pick up my hire car. I'm not fond of driving while on holiday, but I decided that having a car would provide me with more interesting adventure opportunities in the Lake District. I remember public transport being quite restrictive last year.

After figuring out how to start it (new cars!) I made my way first to Keswick. The lady in the car hire place asked if I needed help getting to Grasmere. I explained the path I planned to take. She suggested an alternative which would be much more scenic. I decided to take her advice. She was right, but it was distractingly scenic! With a new car and driving in England to contend with already, having the magnificent mountains and lakes in my peripheral vision made it even harder. But I managed OK.

I plan to explore Keswick in more detail later so I only stayed long enough for some refreshment and a couple of snaps. 

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From Keswick it was just a 15min drive to my final destination Grasmere where the hotel is. 

The Cinder Track

For the second time in a row the day didn't pan out as I expected. The original soft plan was to go for a stroll along a nearby walking trail for a couple of hours, come back and freshen up, then head to Whitby and/or Robin Hood's Bay for a second attempt at early evening light photography. To cut a long story short, the walk was so amazing and I was enjoying it so much that I just kept going. 21.6km later I've got some wonderful memories and two very stiff and sore legs.

So back to the beginning. The Cinder Track is a bike and walking track along the old disused train line between Scarborough and Whitby. Being a former train line, the walk is relatively easy with a mild gradient. After a slow morning I headed towards the start of the track at about 11:00am. The track was pleasant from the start but it took over an hour before I reached the outskirts of Scarborough and neighbouring Scalby.

The further away from civilisation I got, the more beautiful and peaceful the track became. Towards Scarborough there was a steady stream of parents wheeling prams but after that the track was only punctuated with walkers and cyclists. A couple of hours in I realised that this was what I wanted to do for the rest of the day. All around me was incredible birdsong with the occassional bird darting on to the path in front of me. I recorded as much of the sound as I could, when the singers weren't being shy on me.

The terrain changed as the track continued, as you'll see from the photos. Every path in front of me was a picture - a work of art - inviting me onwards. 

I realised that this was the most "in the moment" I have been on this holiday. 

Initially, the path was reminiscent of so many of the other paths I've explored on this trip.

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I noticed the shine on the leaves of this tree. 

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As well as a large number of perfectly formed dandelion flowers. 

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Towards the town of Burniston, the path opened up. 

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More verdant green fields. 

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There was one section of trees decked out with accommodation for fledgling birds. 

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And more fields. 

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The path started to become more woody. 

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Then opened up again. I noticed this wall snaking its way up the hillside.

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All along the track there are the bridges that use to pass over the train line. They add a unique feel to what is now a pedestrian or cycling way. 

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I noticed these unusually shaped gates in a number of places. 

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I passed a number of fields with cows. In this field I first noticed a white cow scratching her chin on a post but then paused to meet the rest. I thought this was the most photogenic. 

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For a while the track cut through dense woods. 

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Before revealing glimpses of the sea. 

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This was a former station on the line. The station building is now a residence and you can see the platform on the right. I encountered 3 other stations, but they were in far worse shape. 

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Eventually the track opened up completely. 

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Near Ravenscar I passed ruins of a WWII monitoring station. 

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At Ravenscar I paused at the visitor information centre. While relaxing I chatted with a couple who were staying in one of the villages I had passed. We talked about many things including how beautiful the countryside is. Robyn, you'll be pleased to know there ARE some english folk who appreciate what they have! 

I was considering a couple of options for the final leg of my journey but the couple convinced me to stay on the Cinder Track. I'm so pleased that they did. Soon after leaving Ravenscar the view opened up to this incredible vista. 

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What a place for a picnic!

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In the distance I could see Robin Hood's Bay. 

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From here on it was downhill, which was lucky because my legs were really complaining by this stage. Ideally I would have ended the walk an hour before, but I had to continue in order to meet the bus route for my return journey. 

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My walk terminated at Fylinthorpe. As I reached the town I passed a caravan park with this reassuring sign. 

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The weather was stunning and the light was brilliant. My head was tempted to turn right to Robin Hood's Bay but my body told me otherwise. When I reached the bus stop it was 5:26pm and the next bus was due at 5:36pm. It was a sign. I hopped on board and hobbled off at Scarborough 45min later. 

I feel so incredibly privileged to have experienced such a wonderful path through this country.  

Whitby

Seeing the Larpool Viaduct inspired me to make a "small" diversion when I reached the end of the train line at Whitby. By this time it was around 1:30pm. My original plan for the day had been to spend the afternoon exploring Whitby, grab some dinner there and hopefully take advantage of the early evening light before catching the last bus back to Scarborough. But now I really wanted to find the viaduct and explore it a bit. At the time it seemed easy enough and shouldn't impact my overall plan.

On my map it appeared easy to get near where the viaduct was and I estimated it should only take 30-60min to get there. As I walked away from Whitby there were opportunities to take some snaps.

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I managed to find the viaduct quite easily. It used to carry trains across the valley when the train line ran from Whitby to Scarborough. Now it's part of a bike and walking trail. 

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On one side the river bends as it heads towards Whitby. 

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On the other side I could see the train line that carried me earlier. I knew there was a walking trail on the river side of the track. I just needed to figure out how to get there! 

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I found one walking track off the viaduct and weaving below. Totally unexpectedly, I came across this horse hitched to a tree with no one else in sight. At the end of the day I would see the same horse with rider as the bus turned into Robin Hood's Bay on the way back to Scarborough. 

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I continued on my mission to get to the river side train track. My map app had some tracks marked on it so I had a strong feeling I was going to succeed. In the end it became clear my only option would be to walk to the nearest village Ruswarp where there was a crossing across the train line. 

So I walked. 

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And walked. 

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And walked. 

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Before reaching the crossing and getting on the river side of the train track. 

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Although it was a long and unplanned walk, it was lovely and I made sure I paced myself to enjoy the journey and not just anticipate the destination. 

Eventually I made it to the viaduct and it was worth it. 36m high, 279m long, 13 arches and 5,000,000 bricks, it was very impressive. 

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From there I continued on the river track back to Whitby. I noticed the triangles of the roofs on the buildings on one side of the town as they cascaded down to the northern bank of the river. 

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Captain Cook came from around this area so there are quite a few Captain Cook themed museums and buildings in Whitby. 

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Whitby contains a number of streets preserved in time and thankfully devoid of parked traffic. I wandered around as I headed towards the famous abbey on the southern side of the river. 

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Leading to the abbey are the famous 199 steps.  

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At the top of the steps is St Mary's church and graveyard. It struck me that these stones were like the souls of the departed still looking down and keeping an eye on the inhabitants of the town below. I can't decide whether that's comforting or creepy. 

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Next to the church are the ruins of Whitby Abey. These ruins date from the Benedictine abbey constructed around the 13th century. I hadn't been all that interested in exploring the abbey because it seemed quite decayed. But since I was there I decided to get a ticket and look around. 

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The lush green grass was like a luxurious carpet connecting the ruins.

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I was surprised at how substantial the abbey had been. 

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By this time it was about 5:00pm. My original plan would have involved finding some dinner and then wandering around to do some photography in the late afternoon/early evening light. But I was exhausted. The extra walking to find Larpool Viaduct had not been in my plan and I'd used up my energy. The light was starting to look fantastic, beautifully lighting up the sides of the buildings but I couldn't bear the thought of wandering around for another hour taking pictures. I decided to listen to my body and head back earlier than planned.  

I caught the 5:43pm X93 bus back to Scarborough. On the way back the light on the fields and moors was better than I had seen so far, but I just couldn't get the camera out. I was done. I have one more day here tomorrow so I will probably try to hatch a better plan. 

North Yorkshire Moors Railway

Today was another one of those days that turned out quite different from the original plan. The day got off to a good start after a less noisy night and a better sleep. I went for the buckwheat pancakes and berry compote for breakfast and they were fantastic. As I enjoyed my breakfast I reflected on how it feels like I have been away for an eternity. That's a really nice feeling to have. And there's still just over a week to go! 

I also reflected on a funny trend I've noticed. The few times I've engaged in conversation with locals I've often remarked on how beautiful I think the UK is. The standard response has been along the lines of "yes, but you have better weather". Like they can't recognise what they have. When I respond that I'm not a fan of the hot weather they don't know what to say next. 

I headed off quite early. I needed to get to Pickering at one end of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. I briskly walked the 10min to the train station where the 128 bus to Pickering departed. I was there in plenty of time for the 9:10am bus. Pickering isn't that far if you travel direct but the bus did dart in and out of a few villages, something I was very happy with as it gave me more insight into the area. We passed through more green fields and villages with lovely stone cottages. The bus was a double decker and I decided to be brave and sit up top at the front. I say brave because last time I did that was in a bus from Windermere to Bowness last year and I really didn't enjoy the experience. But this time was OK and I got a great view. 

Pickering is a small town with a generally vintage feel. There was an open air market with a variety of things on sale, but nothing I was overly interested in. 

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I headed straight away to the train station to get my bearings and secure a ticket. The station and surrounding areas purposely appear frozen in time, like this tea room. 

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After wandering around Pickering for a little while I decided to head back to the station. My train was due to leave at 12:00pm and I got back there just as the 11:00am train was departing. 

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The platform is decked out in 1930s style. Others on the line reflect other eras including the Goathland station which has been used for the Heartbeat TV series and first Harry Potter movie. 

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I had some morning tea in the tea rooms at the station and bought a book from the gift shop while waiting for the train. Shortly after 12:00pm toots heralded the train as it rounded the bend into the station. 

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This train was more substantial than those on the North Wales railways. The sound of the steam as the engine gained speed was so iconic. We even got a free fine layer of soot blown in through the windows.

The scenery along the line was quite varied. There were buildings dotted though the countryside and green fields. 

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As well as stretches through the barren North Yorkshire Moors. 

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This row of houses appeared out of nowhere with no evidence of other buildings to form a village. 

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Part way along the trip I noticed a "passenger" hitch hiking on the outside of the window. He held on for quite some time, helped by the leisurely pace of the train. 

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All up the journey took about 1.5hr. Towards the end the train went under the massive Larpool Viaduct. I wasn't able to get a great photo from the train but that led to the changes in the rest of the day. 

Staithes

After Robin Hood's Bay, I decided to head to Staithes. This was another village I had seen gorgeous photos of. I took the bus from Robin Hood's Bay on to Whitby then caught the 12:43pm X4 bus towards Middleborough. The timetable indicated that it would stop at Staithes. The bus was similar to those in Wales in that it announced each bus stop. I eagerly watched and awaited Staithes. It didn't happen. I realised quite quickly that I'd missed the stop and got off. I had a short wait before a bus came the other way and I realised the mistake. The timetable said Staithes, but the actual stop was shown as Dalehouse - Captain Cooks Close. No wonder I missed it the first time!

Like Robin Hood's Bay, there was a walk down to the village. 

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And more gorgeous streets and pathways. 

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I was able to walk out to the breakwater to get some shots back towards the village. 

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And then I climbed a path on one of the hills to the side of the village to get a bird's eye view.

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As beautiful as both Robin Hood's Bay and Staithes were, reality didn't match the images I had seen back at home. I've come to realise that those pictures benefit from perfect lighting and timing and a bit of photoshop touching up. Very glad I visited both though. 

I walked back to catch the 3:34pm bus back to Whitby but realised when I got there that the particular service only operates after 28 May. Luckily the next was only at 4:04pm. I bumped into 3 gentlemen who had made the same mistake. My "insider" knowledge sparked a nice chat while we waited together.  From Whitby I took the 5:06pm X93 bus back to Scarborough. After a very long day it was nice to have a delicious meal in the restaurant. 

Robin Hood's Bay

The hotel is really nice - service is great and the view is amazing. But the hotel is old and you can hear every movement in every room around you. Being Saturday yesterday, last night it was ridiculously noisy as people were getting ready for the night. But after that it was all good.  

I woke first just before 5:00am. I was eager to check out the sunrise so I couldn't resist opening the curtains a bit. It was beautiful, if less colourful than I had hoped. I tried to get some extra sleep but once my brain is awakened, that's it for me. I was up for a sumptuous breakfast at 7:30am. 

I had a rough plan for the day which started by catching the X93 bus at 9:50am. I bought an all day ticket which ended up being a great idea. The bus took me to my first destination Robin Hood's Bay (no relation to Robin Hood of Sherwood Forest). 

As with many of the most beautiful fishing villages, there was a walk down first. 

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Before lots of winding, narrow streets and pathways. 

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I noticed the huddle of rooftops.

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At the water's edge there was a beach to one side. 

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And cliffs to the other side.

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At the end of the visit on the way back up the hill I turned back to see this view. Just perfect.

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When I got back to the bus stop there was a bus already waiting so I eagerly jumped on board. After a couple of moments I realised it was pointing the wrong way and would have taken me back to Scarborough. Luckily I was able to hop off before it departed. And even more luckily the right bus arrived soon after. On to my next destination. 

Scarborough

The hotel was about 15 min walk from the railway station. It was a bit of a struggle in places, but you never know from the map. The hotel looks lovely and the room will be perfect. It's compact but I have a lovely sea view from the bed. 

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The weather was lovely and I immediately re-grouped to set off. It's wonderful to get the fresh excitement of exploring each time I arrive somewhere new.  

I headed towards the town centre and beach. This is the south beach and you can see the ruins of Scarborough Castle on the hill. 

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In the opposite direction a series of bays fade into the distance. This is very similar to the view from my window. 

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In the bay I noticed what looked like a sailing ship. Initially I was excited to see such a ship, but then I noticed it was moving awfully fast. When I zoomed in I realised it was actually a "pirate" motor boat doing short trips into the bay and back. 

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Beneath a bridge walkway that connects parts of the foreshore I noticed that the pylons were home to a colony of gulls. 

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The old town has narrow streets and lovely old buildings. 

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I walked all around the harbour. This is the view looking back to the hotel. 

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And this is the view looking back to the town centre. 

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I continued walking around the cliffs on which the castle is perched. This leads to the north beach. 

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Numerous residences and guest houses are perched at the top of the cliffs with a fantastic view of the bay. At this stage I noticed the clouds were starting to look quite dark. 

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I made my way up to cliff to explore a little when the first drops of rain fell. This street is typical of so many with small guesthouses sitting side by side. 

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The rain got heavier and before long it was pouring. Luckily I had come prepared with jacket and umbrella. It briefly stopped again, giving me an opportunity to devour a delicious cone of icecream on the foreshore before the rain returned heavier than ever. It was time to retreat to the hotel. 

It's coming up to 7:30pm now and the rain has passed. There's just puffy clouds, a little bit of light on the cliffs in the distance and the soft sound of waves. 

Manchester to Scarborough

I only had a relatively short stay in Manchester. I could definitely find plenty of other things to do there, so it would be nice to come back and spend some more time at some stage. I packed my bag last night, so this morning was pretty easy going. I had hoped to sleep in until around 7:00am but unfortunately I was wide awake at 5:00am.  

The weather was clear and blue and it did occur to me that I could pop outside and take advantage of the weather and Saturday morning to do some photography. But I just didn't feel like it - and I'm trying not to feel guilty about it.

I got to the railway station in plenty of time for my 10:11am train. I had purchased a advance first class ticket which was a very reasonable price. First class can be a bit hit and miss depending on the train company and whether you're travelling during the week or on the weekend. In this instance it was just right. Very comfortable, a single window seat and tea/coffee service to your seat.

Sitting diagonally opposite me for most of the trip were two women. They seemed lovely but didn't stop talking for the whole trip. That doesn't bother me at all, I just don't understand how anyone can keep talking that long. I'd find it exhausting! 

The terrain was varied, much of the same lush green pastures and fields I have seen on other trips. I tried to take a few photos but, as usual, timing was critical. This photo was a perfect example of getting the timing wrong! 

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The journey was just over two hours long and we arrived around 12:30pm.  About 1/2 hour before arriving, the lady who had been quietly sitting directly opposite me said something and a conversation ensued. That was lovely, though it soon descended into a long list of bad accommodation experiences she and her family have had. Luckily I'm not staying in the Grand Hotel! That place sounded diabolical - though I doubt it could have been as bad as she made out.

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I chose Scarborough as a base to explore some towns and villages on the Yorkshire coast. If time permits, there's a steam railway I hope to try also. 

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Manchester

After yesterday's adventure I was hobbling around when I got up this morning with sore muscles and a blister on the bottom of one foot.  I've decided that I must prepare better for my next trip and toughen up my feet.

For today, I thought of putting together a plan to visit some of the villages in the Peak District. This is an area I haven't explored yet and the man on the train from Llandudno had given me a number of recommendations. However, in the end I realised that a rushed one day plan was not going to do the region justice. Added to that, the area is to the east of Manchester and there was a forecast of rain. I decided that I should add the area to my "to visit" list for my next trip and do it properly. 

So, in order to treat my feet with kindness, I decided to do some activities in Manchester.  

After a very relaxed start to the day I headed to the Imperial War Museum "North". The focus of this museum of the IWM is the impact of war on individuals. To get there I was going to need to get my head around the tram system. Manchester has what looks like a great network of shiny new trams. When you see them in the streets they warn pedestrians with an unexpected but very endearing whistley "toot" sound. I researched my options and decided on day tripper ticket to allow me to get around as much as I liked.

I caught a tram on the D line to Salford Quay at 10:40am. It took only about 10-15min. It was a short walk to the museum but I had to wait a few minutes for this bridge to lower.

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The museum building is very striking. It's made up from there shards representing conflict on land, in air and on water.

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As with the IWM in London, it was an extremely well designed museum. I spent quite some time strolling through the chronological display. On each hour a different film consumed all the walls of the main exhibition area. I watched 3 of them but the first was the most moving. It focussed on the impact of war on children and I have to admit I had to struggle to keep it together.

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After a delicious but late lunch at the cafe I decided I had time to fit in one other museum. I headed back to central Manchester and to the People's History Museum. On the way I noticed some interesting architecture. I could definitely have a field day here with my camera if I had sufficient time. I only took a few shots, including this of the very impressive town hall. 

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The People's History Museum was all about the struggle for people's rights and the evolution of voting an politics in the UK. There was also an exhibition on the journey to LGBT+ rights in the UK and around the world.  Another fantastic museum.

By now it was nearly 5:00pm and time to get back. I'll have a quiet night tonight and repack my bags before moving on to my next destination tomorrow. 

Hebden Bridge to Heptonstall

I had a few places in mind to visit while I used Manchester as a base. Last night I did my research, working out train and bus times. But today didn't work out anything like I expected. 

When I awoke this morning the sky was quite clear. I decided to head to Hebden Bridge. I was going to spend a couple of hours walking around there before making my way to Haworth. Then on to Keighley and maybe take the train back through Leeds.

After putting a load of washing on I headed to Manchester Picaddilly station. When I got there I couldn't find details of any trains heading to Hebden Bridge. After checking my rail app I realised that they leave from Manchester Victoria station! I couldn't work out which train to catch to get to that station so I decided to walk. Many Manchester streets are at an angle which I must admit does my head in. I kept veering off course but luckily the map on my phone helped me get there eventually. The weather was so lovely I was tempted to stop and take some city photos but the weather report was dicey and I didn't want to squander the good weather. 

I caught the 9:16am train to Hebden Bridge. It only took half an hour.  The first thing I noticed was a canal through the village.

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And then this unusual bench and, like the other day, boots being repurposed as pot planters. 

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Some girls were feeding geese and goslings in a square. I took the opportunity to get some shots. 

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In the main street of Hebden Bridge, the Yorkshire Soap Company was blowing bubbles from the top window above their shop. 

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The village itself was very cute. Lots of grey stone buildings. 

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And an open air market. 

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I stopped for some morning tea from a bakery. I've noticed a particular bird a couple of times recently and one just happened to perch nearby. 

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Then I set off for what I thought would be a short walk. The path was beautiful and the sun was shining through the occassional cloud. 

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The pathway eventually led to this lane way. 

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But it wasn't all flat walking. On a number of occasions the path lead me either up or down steps like these. 

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The path followed one of the streams that fed into the river at Hebden Bridge. I decided to have a go at trying to create a misty water effect by choosing a slow shutter speed. This required me keep the camera very still. I bought a travel monopod (like a tripod but with only one leg) before leaving Australia in the hope that it would help in these kinds of situations. This was my first opportunity to try it out. The result would have been better with a tripod, but I'm still happy with it.

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This part of the woods had a wonderful array of grasses and plants. 

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I eventually made it to Hardcastle Crags, an outcrop of rocks that you can climb. 

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From there I made my way back to Gibson Mill which I had passed about an hour earlier. The path took me back to the stream.

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There were numerous weirs along the length of the stream. 

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When I made it back to Gibson Mill I immediately went to the mill pond to get a photo. I had tried to get this shot when I passed the mill on the way to the Hardcastle Crags. Just as I had the shot ready two ducks landed in the middle of the pond creating ripples that destroyed the reflection. Little pests! So when I came back this was my top priority. Afterwards I had a late lunch in the mill cafe. By this time it was 3:00pm.

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Then it was time to make my way back. I decided to head to Hebden Bridge but would see how things went.  I noticed how tall the streets were.

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I also noticed the roots on this tree. Holding on for dear life. 

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In the distance I could see the end of the park containing the Hardcastle Crags. 

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As I walked towards Hebden Bridge the landscape opened up. 

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For a while the path ran along side the road which was built up with this wall. I reflected on how amazing it is that people built these structures in the middle of nowhere so many years ago. 

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Before getting to Hebden Bridge I decided I had enough energy left to divert to Heptonstall, a village on the hill near Hebden Bridge. It was more challenging than I had expected. The paths climbed steeply up the side of the hill. 

When I first got there and I entered the village I noticed these shoes waiting by one of the doors. 

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The village was adorable. Actually, very similar to what I was expecting to see in Haworth. So finding it was compensation for not having made it to Haworth.

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This little square was by a ruined church. The blossom from the tree looked just like snow. 

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After walking around the village I noticed a bus that was going back to Hebden Bridge. I seriously considered taking it as my feet were getting really sore. But then I decided to follow the path back to Hebden Bridge. It took me to the edge of the village and then this magnificent view. 

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The path followed along the side of the hill all the way into the valley. It was so worth the extra pain I was feeling in my feet and provided a breathtaking conclusion to my walking adventure. 

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I passed by these rocks on the side of the hill. 

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Every view was spectacular. 

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I eventually made my way down to Hebden Bridge. 

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From there I caught the 6:08pm train back to Manchester.  

Although I'd only achieved a little bit of my original plan I had a wonderful day. It was great to take a slower pace and not try to stick to an itinerary. 

This country is so incredibly beautiful. 

Llandudno to Manchester

I've been starting to feel a little gloomy at the thought that this adventure is starting to slip away. I know it's silly to waste my time with these thoughts but it's hard to break the habit. But this morning I did the maths and realised that today is day #14 in the UK and I still have 15 days left to go! That was a bit of a surprise as I mentioned in my blog that I passed the midway point a day or two a go. What a wally. It was a good wake up call and I need to make sure I don't slip into that mindset too easily again.

Today was the end of my stay in North Wales and time to move on to Manchester. I knew that check-in time in Manchester wasn't until 4:00pm so there was no point in rushing. So I had another leisurely breakfast and took my time to repack. Speaking of which, I had to expand the suitcase today. I don't really understand why though. I haven't really bought that much. Is it due to those purchases or just poor packing? I guess I'll work it out on my next re-pack. 

The weather in Llandudno was clear when I first looked out the window this morning but turned to high white cloud by breakfast.  

I checked out just before 11:00am and made the 10min walk to the station. I am noticing a slight lowering of my walking pace which is a sign that I'm starting to wind down a bit. That's good. 

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I caught the 11:44am train to Manchester Picaddilly station. The train started from Llandudno which meant I could choose my seat. Unfortunately, it was quite an old train with no luggage rack. There was, however, an area with folding chairs that provided space for my luggage so that was OK.

When we got to Llandudno Junction a man got on with a walking frame. He sat beside me as there was space for his frame and I think it's the first time I've shared a seat on public transport this trip. He was keen to chat and had a great knowledge of places around the UK due to his own travels in his more mobile days. He was very keen to give me his tips for the places I have yet to visit and I was very grateful. I probably have more to see than time will permit, but it's good to have choices (and left overs for next time).  This did mean that I didn't take any photos of the journey. I noticed a couple of scenes I would have ordinarily snapped, but it was no great loss and a pleasure to chat with Antony. 

By the time we reached Manchester around 1:30pm it was raining lightly. I found some lunch at the station before making the 5min walk to the apartment. For the first time this trip I'm staying in an apartment instead of a hotel, mainly so I can have a bit of personal space and so I can catch up on washing. They upgraded me to a 2 bedroom apartment - I don't need a second bedroom but I assume it's generally roomier. 

I popped out straight away to have a look around and do some grocery shopping. I took my camera but the constant drissle made photography a challenge and wandering around not really fun. I decided to do my shopping and head back to the apartment to plan the next couple of days instead (plus figure out how to use the washing machine).

Manchester was selected as another regional base. My plans for the next 2 days will be dependent on the weather. Luckily I am spoilt for choice.  

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Dragons of Snowdonia

One of my "must do" activities in Wales was to ride on one of the heritage steam trains through Snowdonia. The weather would have been perfect on Sunday, however limited public transport options made it almost impossible for me. I had to wait until today. Even then it involved getting on the number 5/5C bus to Caernarfon at 7:30am in order to get there in time to catch the 10:00am train.  

There were two steam railways I was interested in. One goes between Caernarfon and Porthmadog and the other goes between Porthmaog and Blaenau Ffestiniog. The route maps are at the end of this post. Rather than choose one line and make a return trip it was possible to create a kind of circuit by travelling one way on both. To complete the loop there is a mainline train from Blaenau Ffestiniog back to Llandudno.

I got to Caernarfon in plenty of time to get a ticket and find a good seat, though I had no way of knowing which would be the best side. Plus, single seats were only on one side so I didn't really have much of a choice. The weather at the start was grey and lightly spotting with rain. Not ideal, but OK. 

There was a sense of excitement as the train arrived at the station. 

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The initial landscape was similar to what I've already seen though there was a lot of a rust coloured grass that was a nice contrast against all of the green. 

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About 1/2 hour in it began getting more mountainous. Unfortunately the weather started getting worse. The combination of misty mountains, rain on the windows, smoke from the train and generally low light made photography very difficult.

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I wasn't able to get any good shots of the really dramatic mountain tops. It would be spectacular on a clear day. 

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We ran by and crossed a number of rapidly flowing streams and rivers. 

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Towards the end of the first line the area had clearly flooded as the water level was coming up to the top of the fence line. 

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The first trip took just over two hours. It was definitely a case of the "pensioner express" which made me feel a little bit younger than usual. I managed to get a shot of the carriage as we were alighting. 

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As well as a better picture of the engine. 

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And the full train. 

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I had roughly an hour and a half in Porthmadog before the return trip but the weather wasn't all that pleasant. I did a quick trip down the high street. I noticed that the clouds/mist was slowly coming down the hills at the back of the town. 

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Good to see the tide in for a change. 

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At 1:35pm the second trip began on a different train. Again, I wasn't really on the best side for photographs of the dramatic landscape but there were other things to capture. 

Polution aside, it was quite mystical to see the train smoke occasionally wafting between the trees. 

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Or when another train approached. 

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At one stage the line loops over itself. 

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Which gave me my best opportunity to get a shot of the front of our train in motion. 

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There were a number of dramatic waterfalls down the sides of the mountains. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to capture the largest ones. 

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The second train journey took about an hour and a half. In theory that would leave 20min before the next mainline train to Llandudno. We must have been running late though and there was a train waiting and ready to depart. We needed to dash to make it because the next one was over 2 hours later. 

All in all it was a great journey and I'm really glad I did it. It's the first serious steam engine I can remember going on and the scenery was spectacular. It would have been so much better in clearer weather or combined with some walking at one or more of the stops. In summer the trains are more frequent which would make getting off to walk for an hour more viable.

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