13.11 Cotswolds Walk 2

0520 Last night wasn‘t so good. I woke in the middle of the night quite hot for some reason. And it was a night of strange, vivid and rather disturbing dreams. I check and it‘s not a full moon either; curious.

0700 I head out to get some early light photos of the town. My app says it feels like 0 degrees. I wrap up and use my scarf for the first time this trip. It‘s only just light. The High Street is already packed with traffic; mainly through traffic, I think. In the street they’re setting up for the Tuesday market; “the largest in the Cotswolds”.

0730 The brisk air has made me ravenous. Time for breakfast. I stoke the fire with another decent breakfast. I plan to walk again today.

0845 I head out to check out the market in more detail. There’s enough for me to want to browse now, or I could start my walk instead. I’d rather be walking. The markets should still be there when I get back.

0915 I head off. The initial path turns to muddy fields very quickly. I gingerly walk to avoid slipping. I walked the first part of this walk last year. That was in Spring. It will be interesting to see the countryside now. There is a gentle incline as I head up a hill. I notice quite a lot of wildlife. Squirrels scurry across my path. I disturb pheasant in the grass causing them to run off making a strange and disturbing shriek. At the top of the hill, the wind is icy. But otherwise, it’s a perfect day for walking. Completely blue sky. The view from the top of the hill isn’t as good as I hoped. That is until I walk a little further to Bourton-on-the-Hill. The view from the top of the High Street is stunning. I spend a bit of time getting photos. In particular, I play a waiting game with the traffic to try for car-less shots. I continue my walk through fields and along pathways.

1150 I reach Longborough and stop for a rest and a snack of nuts and fruit. I came prepared today. In this village they have converted the telephone box to contain a public-use defibrillator. I’ve seen these a lot in the UK. Great initiative.

I head off again and walk back to Moreton-in-Marsh.

1300 I get back. 14.2 km in total. I jump into a hot bath then clean my boots and gear.

1330 I check out the market again. There’s a strange mix of fresh produce, clothes, hardware and cards. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot in the way of original crafts. I’m hungry so I get a pork roll followed by a piece of gingerbread fudge. Yum!

1400 I’m back in the hotel. It’s very busy with the lunch trade. I sit in my room and go through the day’s photos and comments from yesterday.

Thanks for the magnesium tip Robyn. Yes, I use it too and I prefer powder form but I’ve been finding it hard to come by in the UK. I got some tablets yesterday which I hope will help.

1500 I stick my nose outside again. They are packing up the market.

1540 I sit in the lounge to relax and finish of my blog. It’s nice to have a bit of activity around me.

1710 I decide to eat in the bar area today. Char grilled chicken burger.

Observation: It feels like people are more reserved here in the Cotswolds. Not so smiley. I found people in the Peak District far more friendly.

I think it will be an early night tonight. I’m feeling quite exhausted. Maybe some TV.

England 2018Ian Barber14 November 2018Longborough, UK, Cotswolds, Bourton-on-the-Hill, Walking Comments

12.11 Cotswolds Walk 1

0540 I have slept really well. I think it must be still only 0200 or 0300 and I’m surprised to see it’s past 0500. As soon as I arrived last night I turned down the central heating so my room has been nice and cool for sleeping. Rooms that were too warm were a real problem last holiday but this time it’s been perfect. Breakfast doesn’t begin until 0730 so I may as well doze a bit longer.

0620 I didn’t really sleep but I have rested a bit more. Time for coffee. The selection of coffees, teas, hot chocolate, water, biscuits (and sherry!) in the room is excellent. It was cold when I arrived last night and my weather app tells me it feels like 3 degrees right now.

0730 I head down for breakfast. I fill up; I have a long walk ahead of me today.

0800 I do a bit of planning and pack my bag with the things I think I’ll need.

0845 I start a walk using my app. The walk starts through grassy fields. The temperature is brisk but I’m feeling fine and before long I‘m just walking in t-shirt. I pass a field of sheep and they all stand perfectly still on queue as I walk past. After a while the walk takes me across recently ploughed fields. The mud cakes to my boots. Again, I‘m grateful I invested in decent boots for this trip. Also, I‘m thankful to Robyn who gave me great advice on my last trip to wear two layers of socks; no blisters this year!

At times it’s hard to know if I‘m going in the right direction. The footpaths are not all clearly marked. I put my trust in the app and it‘s really good for directing me. Sometimes I just head where it tells me and hope for the best. A couple of times I head the wrong way and need to find my way back. The walk takes me through a couple of small villages. It also takes me across a field of cows. Walking among sheep doesn‘t bother me but the cows stare me down and I steer clear of them as much as I can. About 3/4 into the walk the clouds are getting darker. Luckily I packed a spray jacket. Before long I need to put it on. The showers aren’t too heavy but they persist on and off until the end of the walk. My trousers are pretty damp by the end.

1420 I get back, 20.6 km later. Surprisingly, I don’t feel too bad. I took water with me but I haven‘t felt hungry; the big breakfast I had has served me well. I have make a coffee before slipping into a nice hot Radox bath. Afterwards, I clean my boots before the remaining mud dries.

1500 It‘s still early so I head out to check out the street. I had the impression that there were lots of interesting shops in the Main Street but on closer inspection, there‘s not anything I find worth buying.

1640 I sit down in the bar by the fire to work on my blog.

1900 Time for dinner. Blue cheese and walnut Soufflee, chicken supreme and Creme brûlée. All extremely delicious. The food in this hotel is excellent.

2020 It‘s been a big day. Time for bed I think.

England 2018Ian Barber13 November 2018Moreton-in-Marsh, Cotswolds, Nature, UK, Walking Comments

11.11 IWM Duxford and on to the Cotswolds

0530 I haven’t slept well due to leg cramps. I get them now and then. I didn’t drink enough yesterday, so I suspect I may be a bit dehydrated. I will try to rehydrate today. It’s going to be a busy day then travelling to my next base.

0645 As expected, it is especially quiet at breakfast. It’s raining outside.

My shoes are still damp after last night’s adventure. I use the hair dryer to dry them a bit and it appears to work.

0800 After repacking my bags I work on my blog post for yesterday.

0900 I check all the timetables for today’s travels. I’m all packed and ready in plenty of time. Today I want to visit the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. This part of the museum is all about aviation. It mainly has war planes but also some commercial ones. It has been on my to-do list for the last couple of visits to the UK. My bus is not until 1012.

0930 The weather has cleared up.

0950 I get to the bus stop early but there isn’t clear signage for the bus I want. Then a driver also points to a notice saying that busses won’t be stopping in the street between 1000 and 1200 due to the Remembrance Day march. Not looking promising. Others are looking for the same bus too. Another driver suggests walking to another stop just in case the bus picks up the route later. It sounds like it’s worth a try. I walk with someone who was going to the hospital. We chat until we reach a bus stop.

1015 After a few minutes the bus arrives. Phew!

1030 As we try to exit the motorway, the bus gets stuck in the queue of cars also wanting to go to the museum. We grind to a halt. When it’s clear we are going to be a long time the bus driver executes a tricky manoeuvre which gets us to a place he can drop us off to walk the last short distance. Legend!

1054 I’m in the gate.

1100 In one of the hangars we observe 2 minutes silence. It’s somber but then a very small boy nearby keeps asking “Why is everyone so sad now?”. For me, that innocence just makes the occasion even more poignant and moving.

I wander around the various hangars. I’ve been to some air museums before, most notably the one in Washington DC. So there’s not a lot here that really excites me. Having said that, it’s really well done and very extensive. Maybe it‘s just me today. They do have a Concorde you can walk through. Unfortunately, inside it is set out as the test plane would have been with instrumentation. It didn’t give a very good sense of what the passenger experience would have been.

1230 I need to make a call to aim for the 1327 bus back to Cambridge or wait until 1527. I haven‘t seen everything, but I think I‘ve seen enough. And leaving early will mean I don’t get to the Cotswolds quite as late.

1325 The bus arrives.

1345 We reach Cambridge. On the way to collect my bags from the hotel I get my train tickets. I decide to get First Class. It‘s another long journey and I would like to be comfortable. I grab some lunch that I can eat on the train.

1428 We depart for London Kings Cross. The first train is definitely more comfortable in First Class. The weather is clear with just patchy cloud.

1535 We arrive at Kings Cross station. I make my way to the underground after going the wrong way only once. It’s a rabbit warren of passages and escalators.

1550 I take the Hammersmith & City line to Paddington.

1600 We get to Paddington station.

1620 I‘m onboard the train that will take me to Morton-in-Marsh in the Cotswolds.

1637 We depart, stopping at Slough, Maidenhead, Reading, Didcot Parkway, Oxford, Hanborough, Charlbury, Kingham and Moreton-in-Marsh.

1830 We arrive in Moreton-in-Marsh. I‘ve been to this town a couple of times, so I know my way to the hotel. I haven‘t stayed at the Redesdale Arms before but I have eaten here. It‘s the polar opposite of the last hotel. Old charm and history, dating back to around 1650. The room has a physical key!

1930 I head down for dinner. I‘ll try out the dining room menu tonight. I have fried breaded Brie, seared Scottish salmon and sticky toffee pudding with toffee icecream. All excellent and much more than I needed. But ... I‘m on holiday!

England 2018Ian Barber12 November 2018UK, IWM Duxford, Moreton-in-Marsh, Cotswolds, Aviation, Airplanes Comments

10.11 Norwich and The Tower Remembers

0500 I was dozing off in front of the TV by 0800 last night. Then I slept really well and could probably have slept longer but I’m keen to get started early as usual. There is rain on the window but it’s clear at the moment.

0630 It’s quiet at breakfast again. I start reading one of the books I bought yesterday: 50 Ways to Improve Your German.

0730 After checking train timetables I head to the station. Today I want to visit Norwich. The weather outside is clear and crisp. I buy an off-peak ticket. It’s not that easy knowing which tickets are allowed but the ticket has a website address which I check and I think it’s OK. (It is.)

0809 We depart Cambridge, stopping at Cambridge North, Ely, Brandon, Thetford, Attleborough, Wymondham and Norwich. On the way I see canals, fields, woods and forests; a bit of everything. I need to keep reminding myself that I‘m here and on holiday. It‘s too easy to take it for granted. I remember imagining these moments when I was back home. Well, here they are!

0938 We arrive at Norwich and I walk along the river walk which takes me past some lovely scenery and the Cow Tower. I head towards Elm Hill. The street is full of Elizabethan buildings. Next I head to Norwich Cathedral. I don‘t go in; not that interested. But it‘s good to see up close and see the differences with the other cathedrals I have visited. It appears less gothic?

Next I wander to Norwich Castle. Again, not quite like other castles I have seen. The stonework is less pitted. At first I thought it must be much more recent but it dates back to Norman times. Maybe it‘s made of different stone.

There are markets. They‘re very organised and a bit commercial, but I wander and get a nice roast beef roll for lunch. There‘s a loud protest going on outside the town hall. I can‘t work out what it‘s about, but the crowd seems well behaved, if very noisy.

When it‘s time to make my way back to the station I walk through a number of quaint narrow streets.

1240 I‘m returning to Cambridge early because of something I want to do this evening. It‘s overcast now and I semi-snooze on the train.

1400 We arrive back in Cambridge.

I want to head in to London to visit The Tower Remembers, which is a torchlight installation around the Tower of London to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of WWI. Tonight is the last night, so my only opportunity. The weather report seems OK, so I give it a go.

1520 I head to the station and there is a heavy downpour. I head back to my room to get my umbrella. I‘m not sure of the exact train ticket so I go to the ticket office. I get my ticket just in time.

1544 I‘m on a direct train to London Kings Cross and it‘s packed. Maybe lot‘s of people are going to the same place? The rain clears a bit as we leave Cambridge.

1633 We arrive at Kings Cross and I make my way to the tube station. There is a long wait for the train (by tube standards).

1703 I catch the Circle line to Tower Hill.

1718 Just about the whole train alights at Tower Hill along with numerous other trains. It‘s jam packed. I have underestimated this event. As we reach ground level I can see it is bucketing down. I‘m so glad I wore my rain coat and brought my umbrella. We begin a directed shuffle to the Tower that will take just under 2 hours. At times I think about bailing, but I remember why I‘m there. It feels disrespectful (and un-British) to let a little rain put me off. The mood is orderly and people are in good spirits. I get the sense that this is a significant event.

1900 I finally get to the Tower. It‘s still raining, but the installation (sight and sound) is moving. But it‘s hard to stay and ponder for too long. The installation consists of 10,000 torches lit around the Tower and quite somber music. You can read more about it here: https://www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london/explore/the-tower-remembers/#gs.ggmhxsQ

Afterwards, I decide to avoid Tower Hill station and make a dash for Aldgate station instead.

1930 I catch a CIrcle Line train back to Kings Cross. I have very soggy feet! I‘m so glad I left my camera and back pack in the hotel. It would have been a nightmare trying to navigate with them and to protect them.

2005 After a wrong turn, I make it back to Kings Cross train station and on a train back to Cambridge. Settled in, I eat the sandwich I had bought on the way through the station.

2035 We depart London.

2140 We arrive in Cambridge. I make the short dash to the hotel, dry off and straight to bed.

England 2018Ian Barber11 November 2018Tower of London, Castles, Tower Remembers, Norwich, UK, Armistice Day 2018, Cathedrals Comments

09.11 Cambridge

0515 Apart from once being woken by a gurgling sound in the aircon unit (which was off), I slept really well. Breakfasts start at 0630 here, so I want to be there early to avoid any rush and also so that I can head out early for some city photos before too many people are around.

0630 There are only a few people at breakfast. Success! Ouch, I burnt the top of my mouth on last night’s pizza.

I’d like to get a photo of the breakfast area just for my memories reel. But I’d rather not get anyone in the shot. I aim, then one of the the staff turn around. I quickly try to cover my tracks by pointing down at my cereal. MY HALF EATEN ALL BRAN! What kind of pathetic food blogger must I look like? Never mind.

0730 I head out. There is patchy cloud. I walk into the centre of the city then east along the river Cam and back. Along the way I encounter the same throngs of cyclists I did yesterday. This is definitely a cyclist city; they rule the roads and they don’t take prisoners. I’m careful to look around before crossing any road or path.

0930 I want to walk through one of the colleges but it is closed until 1000. So I pop into a small café for a refreshment. I have a delicious piece of slice and a coffee. The experience also reminds me that contactless (pay wave) is so fast hear. The reading of the card is instantaneous.

1000 I enter St John’s College and walk through. It takes me to the Bridge of Sighs, which is an incredible name.

1030 It suddenly gets cold and I put my jumper on.

1050 I walk around a market. There are wonderful food smells.

1100 Great St Mary’s is a church with a tower you can climb. I buy a ticket and make my way up. The view is great.

1200 I’m starting to feel hungry. Earlier I saw a sign in The Greene King pub advertising, among other things, their pies. I can’t get the idea out my head. I order the steak and wine pie. I see news of the stabbings in Melbourne on a TV in the pub.

1245 It’s quite overcast. I decide to look around at some shops. But I’m feeling a bit weary. I decide to return to the hotel for a little while.

1418 After regrouping, I head out. This time without my back pack and camera. I wander around, browsing some book shops. It’s very liberating to be without the camera.

1630 I’m back at the hotel looking at my photos from the day. The weather has cleared a little in the last few hours.

1750 After my big lunch I don’t want too much for dinner. There is a Wasabi in the square downstairs. That will do.

1930 Time to work on my blog and then settle in for the night.

England 2018Ian Barber10 November 2018UK, Cambridge Comments

08.11 Buxton to Cambridge

0530 Anxious that I might miraculously oversleep, I’ve set the alarm. It goes off but I am already awake. Yes, it’s a tad early, but I don’t like to risk these things. Time to potter then get fully packed. I need to be out the door straight after breakfast. I have a morning of train travel ahead of me. And as much as I meticulously prepare, I always have a degree of worry that something will go wrong. Today is also a rush because I pre-booked to get advance ticket prices. But it’s locked me into a schedule. I will book the rest of my trips as I go. That should be more relaxed.

0630 I open the curtains. Lots of blue sky for the first time since I’ve been here. I haven’t minded the cloud though.

0700 Time for a very quick breakfast.

0735 I get to the train station in plenty of time.

0756 The train departs. It must be a commuter train because it gets very busy. I start to get anxious that it’s going to be tough getting off. But then it thins before Stockport and it’s all OK.

0850 We arrive at Stockport and I change trains. I make my way to platform 0 as shown on the sign and mentioned in announcements. Then there’s a new announcement that the train is departing from platform 2. Back we go. At platform 2 there’s already a train but I don’t think it’s mine. I let it go with trepidation, but I’m right. The next train is mine. My ticket is for carriage A which I assume will be at the front of the train. No, when the train arrives carriage A is at the back. Dash. There’s not much luggage space onboard but I get by.

0858 We depart a few minutes late. But this is the long leg of the trip and I’m all settled now.

0940 We arrive in Sheffield and lots of people get off. A sign back in Stockport alerted me that I needed to be in one of the front 2 carriages to get to Ely but carriage A was at the back. This did concern me. But then we reverse direction at Sheffield and we’re now at the front. It all makes sense now. Lucky I had a reservation, otherwise I would have sat in the other end.

0955 Chesterfield.

1030 Nottingham.

1110 Grantham.

1130 The train has a trolley service. I love this about trains in the UK. I grab a sandwich.

1140 Peterborough.

1215 We arrive in Ely. I get off to change trains for the last time.

1238 I’m on the train to Cambridge.

1300 We arrive at Cambridge. The hotel is literally next to the station. Very convenient. The hotel room is compact but very comfortable. It will be fine. The weather is still very clear so I decide to head for a walk while I can.

1400 I start walking towards Grantchester. It’s just over 2 miles from Cambridge and the walk follows the river Cam.

Grantchester is a small village. I had hoped for some quaintness but it didn’t quite deliver. Never mind, it was still a nice walk. About 7.5 km in total.

1600 I get back to the station. The walk was easy but my feet are sore. I stop into a Café Nero to try their winter spiced hot chocolate. Delicious!

1800 I head downstairs for some dinner. It’s not a restaurant, more a café but it looks good and feels relaxed. The hotel feels relaxed in general. There wasn’t a reception desk, instead there are roaming staff members who check you in. The hotel and the surrounding area feel very different to Buxton.

1930 I’m going to lie in bed and watch some TV.

England 2018Ian Barber9 November 2018UK, Grantchester, Trains, Cambridge Comment

07.11 Downtime in Buxton

0600 It’s the usual routine. I’ve been awake since just before 0500. I’ve listened to some music and now having my coffee. But this morning I’m also pleased to notice the soft patter of rain. Rain days force me to take things down a gear; to save me from myself. One thing I do need to do is collect my train tickets for tomorrow. I should have used one of the machines in Manchester but I forgot in my rush to catch the train. I haven’t seen many machines in the smaller stations and wonder if I’ll have to go into Manchester today. But I’ll check online and I should be able to pick them up from the Buxton station.

0655 There was a stream of people arriving last night. I think it might be something business related. This morning I hear lots of movement in the rooms around me.

0730 Time for breakfast. As expected, there are more people around today. It is very nice to slow down and take my time. Nowhere I need to be.

0815 I’ve noticed that the time stamp on photos from my camera and my iPhone are different. I check and my camera is set an hour behind. I correct it.

1000 I head down to the lounge. I’m going to sort out some photos to post to Instagram and Twitter. There are sounds of activity in the hotel but not many people to be seen.

1030 It’s started raining seriously. I don’t think it will last for long though.

1130 It’s really pouring down now.

1150 There’s a break in the rain. I head out. It’s only drizzling. Either way, I figure I need to embrace my English heritage and brave it. I go to the station and get my tickets very easily.

1230 I grab some lunch in the centre of Buxton.

1300 I wander around a bit to stretch my legs and see what else is about. Then the rain starts again and I head back to the hotel.

1320 I’m back in the dry of the hotel. I do some planning for the next few days.

1345 I’m feeling like I should be doing something. I keep having to remind myself that I don’t need to be constantly busy.

1400 I spend the afternoon watching TV. It’s fun to see what’s on the local channels.

1800 I head down for my last dinner here.

I feel that I’ve stayed just the right amount of time here. I’m ready to move on and I think I would definitely come back to explore more.

1900 I turn the TV on. The Great Model Railway Challenge is on. That’s my kind of show and I’m in my element.

2000 I need to pack my bags so I can head off early in the morning.

No photos today.

England 2018Ian Barber8 November 2018UK, Buxton Comments

06.11 Ashford-in-the-Water to Bakewell

0500 I have a better night’s sleep. Though I get the occasional shooting pain in my lower back. Maybe I’ve slept funny. I listen to music for a while. Other than the back twinge I’m not sore or stiff from yesterday.

0600 I make my morning coffee and plan as usual.

0630 I do some research on bus routes to get to some of the villages around Buxton. The Derbyshire website has a really useful public transport map and links to timetables. I can buy a Derbyshire Wayfarer which gives me unlimited travel for a day. Sounds like a good idea. I consult the timetables and meticulously plan a perfect itinerary that will get me to 4 different villages/towns.

0700 It’s time for breakfast. I go light as there’s no need for a big meal today. There are other people in the restaurant for a change.

0837 I get to bus stop Market A after getting my ticket from the train station. The timetable I downloaded this morning tells me that the number 65 bus will leave here at 0855. The sign at the bus stop appears to confirm this. I wait. It’s not too cold. The sky is overcast but I see one brief glimpse of blue. I see a number 65 bus approach but it stops earlier than me. Maybe the driver has a rest stop? At 0855 the bus drives off and straight past me. What?

Having missed that bus I hastily make a new plan. Unfortunately, I’ve missed my opportunity to visit all 4 places and must settle on only 2 now. As I make my way to the next bus stop I pass bus stop Market C where the bus had paused. The sign there also says the 65 bus. WTF? No matter, I have a new plan now.

0936 I get on the bus to Derby.

1009 I get off at Ashford-in-the-Water. I have an hour to explore. I wander around the village. It’s small and pretty. An hour is just long enough.

1107 I get on the next bus to continue to Bakewell.

1116 I arrive at Bakewell. It’s a pretty town and, among other things, known for the famous Bakewell Pudding/Tart. I stroll around. I find the first bakery that sells Bakewell Tarts (I later discover there are many) and purchase one along with a flapjack for later. Delicious!

1200 I wander into a small shop called Birdsong. They have some lovely printed items that catch my eye, partly because of the German writing. The lady in the shop tells me about them. She tells me about the German company that makes them. When I mention my trip to Munich at Christmas she insists on writing down the name of a nice restaurant they know of. She tells me to be prepared for the cold. But also, that the people of Bavaria are more hospitable than the northerners. She says I’ll love it there. It was a lovely exchange and I leave with a smile and some nice (secret) purchases.

1220 I’m ready for some lunch. I find a shop selling different pasties. I settle on steak and Stilton and walk to the river to sit and enjoy it. After my lunch I wander more, taking photos and exploring shops. I feel very relaxed. Now I’m glad my original plan didn’t work out. This was much more calming. Just the right amount of time.

1400 I get the bus back to Buxton. Because the sun is setting at around 1630 at the moment, mid afternoon here feels like late afternoon back home.

1440 I arrive back at Buxton. The weather is clearing and there are patches of blue. I wander around the town and find some more parks.

1500 I’m back in the hotel. Enough walking for one day. I sit down to work on my blog.

1800 Dinner in the restaurant. Alone again, not that I mind. Pressing of ham hock (delicious) and beetroot risotto (not so delicious).

1852 It’s starting to get gusty. The forecast is for rain tomorrow.

England 2018Ian Barber7 November 2018UK, Ashford-in-the-Water, Bakewell, Walking, Buxton Comments

05.11 Hope to Edale

0500 It’s been a restless night; waking up every couple of hours. Now it’s 0500, I make my coffee and start planning the day. I will try for a major walk today. The weather reports for the rest of the week are downgrading, so today may be my best bet for a wilderness walk. I start by downloading my walking app and maps; let’s get serious this time. Then I check trains.

0600 I get an email that my credit card is still blocked. I ring the bank again and sort it out once and for all.

0700 Time for a big breakfast. I load up. I think I’m going to need it. There’s no-one else at breakfast. I hurry because I have a train to catch.

0740 I leave for the station. It’s cold and slightly misty again this morning. I’m surprised at how instantly and comfortingly familiar it feels.

0756 The train to Manchester. I’ll be getting off at New Mills Newtown.

0826 I arrive at New Mills Newtown. I have to walk 15 min to the New Mills Central station where my next train departs. When I get there I have time to sit. I have to keep reminding myself to not constantly be in a rush. I have learnt from past trips that I must savour the journeys as much as the destinations. It’s very cold while I’m sitting and not moving. Luckily I have enough on and I get out my beanie.

0922 We depart. On the train I realise that I have brought my spare battery but I left both lightning cables in the hotel. I’m concerned that the constant use of GPS may drain my phone and want a back up. I’ll see if I can get one at Hope. The mist is getting heavier again when we get to Edale.

0944 We arrive at Hope. It’s misty here too. I pop into the supermarket for a trail snack and they have a lightning cable too!

I start my walk using the app. The plan is to walk up and along the ridge to Edale. On a clear day the views would be fantastic. Clearly, that’s not going to happen today but it doesn’t dampen my enthusiasm. I warm up quickly and need to remove my jumper before too long. The walk up the side of the hills is relatively gradual but relentless. It’s definitely a work out and I get out of breath. The first half is through fields. Half way up I rest under a big black tree. The mist is settling in all around. As the mist gets heavier I notice more and more water on my beard.

The fields make way to more barren landscape. A path has been made out of rocks to make the climb easier. But it’s not THAT much easier. As I near the top of the ridge I can see the mist of the clouds passing in front of and around me. It’s bitterly cold now. At the first marker at the top of the ridge I notice someone quietly eating their lunch through the mist. Incongruous. I walk along the ridge to the next marker. It’s easier walking now. The cloud is tightly wrapped around me. No chance of any view. At the next marker there are 3 girls sitting on a stone wall eating and chatting. There are a surprising number of people walking along the ridge; emerging out of and disappearing into the clouds. It’s an ethereal experience.

I get to the Edale edge of the ridge and it’s time to make my descent. This side is steeper. I’m glad I’m going down it, but it’s still quiet treacherous with some steep edges. I need to watch my footing carefully. I keep watching down until suddenly, when I look up, I notice the cloud is lifting and I can see fields.

1300 I make it to Edale. The app tells me I walked 7.72 km. The total ascent was 410 m and total descent was 326 m. I think that was my most “hardcore” walk ever. And that’s quite tough enough for me. I won’t be trying anything harder. I feel glad that I invested in proper walking and rain gear. At least I felt prepared and protected. It was a great experience though, even without the view. In the morning I had considered doing two walks in the one day. Bugger that! One is plenty. It’s a long wait until the next train back. I decide to take a small walk to Barber Booth and back.

1416 Back at Edale station I notice all the mud on my boots and trousers. This cross country walking is messy business. Waiting for the train I notice another walker I recognise from the train to Hope. I remembered him because he was fully kitted out and looked like a serious walker. We chat. He’d walked much further than me. Nice chap. He tells me of many plane wrecks in the Peak District. He’s planning to explore some.

1447 On the train back to New Mills Central. Then walk back to New Mills Newtown.

1523 On the train back to Buxton. There’s some nice scenery on the way I hadn’t noticed before. When I arrive at Buxton I pop into the shops to get some supplies, including some Radox and magnesium for my aching muscles.

1630 I’m back in the hotel and straight into a long hot Radox bath.

1745 I hear more fireworks tonight.

1800 I sit in the hotel lounge and sort through my photos with a refreshing beer.

1900 Time for dinner. This time blue cheese mouse followed by pork fillet. I booked dinner a little later to give me plenty of bath soaking time. But I’m feeling tired and struggling to stay awake.

1910 More fireworks!

2000 I doze off in front of the TV.

England 2018Ian Barber7 November 2018UK, Hope, Edale, Walking Comments

04.11 Misty in Buxton

0500 I have slept really well. At about 0500 my brain is getting restless. I hear some sounds in the hotel and I don’t think I’ll be getting back to sleep. But that’s OK. I make a coffee and listen to some music for a while.

0630 I can see light sneaking in between the curtains. I look out and there is a soft misty light. Should I head out? Stupid question! I check the temperature; “feels like 4 degrees”. That sounds like a challenge to me. I hastily get dressed and head out.

0700 I walk towards the pavilion and the park. I think it’s my best bet to get some photos before it’s too light and/or the mist lifts (later I will be proven wrong). I capture some nice soft images.

0800 I head down to breakfast. It’s quiet; only a few people.

0900 The mist is still around. In fact, it appears to be a bit heavier. This is an opportunity too good to ignore. I get better prepared and head out again. This time I will aim for the woods. I remember the way from yesterday. In 15 min I reach the edge of the woods and start my ascent. Soon I have been enveloped in a soft, quiet veil of white mist. This is magical. My path is punctuated by the occasional bird or squirrel. There are people too; mainly walking their dogs. But not too many to spoil the solitude of this walk. I pause from time to time to take in the moment. It’s a beautiful experience. How lucky are these people to be able to enjoy it so easily.

0930 I reach the top end of the woods. This is the open top of the hill and it’s just as magical but in a very different way. Eerie. Like moors. Again there are the occasional people with their dogs. They say to me sadly “not a great day for photos, is it?”. I correct them. It’s an AWESOME day for soft light and haunting images. I’d like to make my way back to Solomon’s Temple but up here it’s very hard to see and my phone is not giving me an accurate location. You could get lost up here. So, I keep the edge of the wood in sight as I explore.

1000 It’s time to start heading back. I make my way to the beginning of the woods and start my descent. I want to take in the experience, so I put my large camera away. I can stroll. The mist hasn’t lifted at all and the way down is just as magical.

1045 I’m back in the town and it’s starting to drizzle. I should make my way back to the hotel. On the way I pass some spent fireworks. I get a sharp memory jolt to my childhood. I think it’s from Australia; back when we had a firework nights.

1100 Time for a coffee. I desperately want to see my photos to check that they’re OK. I had to take my glasses off for much of the time because they kept getting fogged up. For I know, all the pictures could be hopelessly out of focus. But they’re not. I’m very happy with the results (see my Grin Low Wood and At the Top of Grin Low Wood posts to see them).

1220 I thought it would be heavily raining by now, but it’s still OK. I decide not to waste the time and head out again. I have an alternative walk to follow. It starts of well. Then I take a lucky wrong turn which takes me by another wood. But ultimately, it’s a dead and I have to back track. Back on track I head until I reach what appears to be another dead end. This is confusing and I don’t feel like going cross country to sort it out. Clearly, I should have loaded my walking app with local maps first. I will be more prepared next time. I walk back to try to pick up the track further on. It takes me on a nice walk through open fields.

1325 I get a brief glimpse of blue sky. I notice more birds. I had wondered whether I would hear as much birdsong this trip. Luckily they haven’t all migrated quite yet.

1400 I’ve hit another dead end. The walk description is too vague and the map is not detailed enough. I decide to abandon the walk. My feet are killing me anyway. Instead I pack away my camera and have a nice stroll back into town.

1430 I grab a sandwich for a late lunch back at the pavilion before making my way to the hotel.

1500 LONG HOT BATH. Ahh.

1530 I work on my blog and photos.

1800 I head down to dinner. I’m the only one in the restaurant. I have scallops and rump of lamb. It’s starting to rain properly for the first time today.

1815 I hear more fireworks outside.

1900 Another set of fireworks go off. This time right in front of the hotel. But there don’t appear to be that many people watching. The fireworks go on for over 1/2 hour. That’s a lot of fireworks for hardly anyone.

1945 I think it will be another early night tonight.

England 2018Ian Barber5 November 2018UK, Mist, Buxton Comments

At the Top of Grin Low Wood

Barren.

White walls.

Shadowy silhouette of the woods in the distance.

The incredible, peaceful alone-ness only occasionally punctuated with others.

Actually, I’m glad of that.

I could get lost up here.

In either body or mind.

England 2018Ian Barber5 November 2018UK, Buxton, Mist, NatureComment

Grin Low Wood

A soft veil of white mist embraces me as I walk through the woods.

Trees brandished with gold and orange.

Gnarled branches, now naked, reach to the whiteness above.

The sound of their fallen leaves crunching and squelching beneath my feet.

The occasional squirrel darts across my path.

One or two birds swoop or flitter away (that feels a bit like a Snow White moment).

I don’t want this experience to end.

England 2018Ian Barber5 November 2018UK, Mist, Nature, Walking, Forest, BuxtonComment

03.11 Manchester to Buxton

0600 I was in bed by about 0800 last night. No dinner; just bed. The travelling had finally caught up and I desperately needed sleep. The bed in the hotel is so soft and comfortable. Perfect for drifting off. I have a number of deep sleeps until I wake at 0230 fairly alert but definitely groggy. After that I drift on the edge; trying not to think too much to avoid fully waking up.

The hotel is part of the same chain as the hotel I stayed at in Oxford last year. They have great 1 cup coffee filter “bags”, so I make myself a brew while I check up on social media and start to think about the day. This has become part of my holiday routine for the last few trips.

0730 While planning my day I discover news of industrial action on the line when I check train times. It shouldn’t cause too much trouble but limits my choices. I‘ll aim for the 0924 train.

0800 I head down to breakfast. I go for the full English to stoke the fires for the day.

0850 After a quick repack I‘m ready to check out. Luckily the station is only 5 min walk from the hotel. It‘s overcast and slighly breezy. It’s cold but while I‘m walking I‘m easily warm enough in jacket and t-shirt, as expected.

0924 On board the Northern line train to Buxton. Stopping at Stockport, Davenport, Woodsmoor, Hazel Grove, Middlewood (when the countryside begins), Disley, New Mills Newtown, Furness Vale, Whaley Bridge, Chapel-en-le-Frith, Dove Holes and Buxton. There are only a few people on the train. I use the bike carriage for my luggage as they don‘t appear to have luggage racks on the other carriages.

The leaves haven‘t finished falling yet, so there is some colour around. I try to get some photos from the train but the windows are dirty and light is not so good.

1024 We arrive at Buxton. It’s a short walk up the hill to the hotel. A bit more effort than I had expected, but not too bad. I check in early and my room is ready. In fact, they move me to a better room that has a view of the park (the first 3 photos are of the hotel and my view).

1100 I head to the Pavilion where there is an information centre. I want to find details of walks. I buy a couple of maps that should help me to plan my stay here. There is a market in the pavilion selling food and craft. I buy a delicious sultana and cherry treacle slice for a late morning tea.

1230 I have chosen a short walk that should give me some views of the area. I head off. Early into the walk I‘m not happy with my photos; they’re too washed out. I play with the light settings on the camera and change to overcast. Massive improvement; I never realised it would make such a difference.

I‘m following a simple map and written description of the walk. After a while, things look wrong. I retrace my steps and follow what I now think is right. It takes me on a narrow trail through the woods. I like it very much, but I don’t think it’s the right one. Eventually, I meet what must be the trail described in my guide. So many of the trees are golden. I head towards Solomon‘s Temple, not having any idea what it is. Then I see this small tower at the top of the hill. The wind is blowing a gale. I shelter behind a brick wall to try and take some photos for a panorama. Another person joins me at the spot to take a photo.

I walk up to the top of the tower and it‘s even more blustery. It reminds me of the day Em and I climbed the tower at the Cliffs of Moher. After the tower, I head back through the woods. There are lot‘s of people strolling about. It‘s so beautiful.

1500 I‘m back at the Pavilion at the end of my walk. I drop by the market to get another treat. This time forest fruit treacle slice. I‘m feeling a little tired; it was a very strenuous walk and climb. But I‘m not feeling any significant jet lag. My feet are sore though. Walking around the town in this late autumnal weather was delightful.

1530 The clouds are heavy and it‘s starting to look dubious. I decide I‘ve given it a good go today and head back to the hotel to look at my photos and write this blog entry.

1800 I decide to try out the restaurant in the hotel for dinner. I have tomato and Aubergine soup, chicken breast with cannelloni beans and honey tart. It’s all very nice; I will dine there again.

During dinner there are ever increasing bangs outside. I have no idea what’s going on until I overhear a discussion. Tonight is Bonfire Night. I remember that from years ago. And the local fireworks are being set off just in front of the hotel. After dinner I look out the window of my room to catch the show. It’s only small but the fireworks go on for a very long time.

2000 I’m feeling tired now. It was an active day and I think it’s time to get to bed. I might listen to some music first.

England 2018Ian Barber4 November 2018Peak District, UK, Manchester, Trains, Autumn, Walking, Buxton Comment

02.11 Doha to London to Manchester

0200 (ADELAIDE TIME) Time for bed. The first 3 hours I sleep quite deeply for an hour at a time. After that it gets bumpy and I’m just drifting on the edge of sleep. At times it’s REALLY bumpy; strap in! Generally the cabin temperature is good. Cool. I can crank up my air vent if I want and this is good for sleeping.

0800 For the last hour of rest I listen to my iPod. I bought lots of music before I left and it’s nice to lay quietly and discover. Albums include Singularity (Jon Hopkins), Soyuz (Gazpacho), Colour Bomb (Colour Bomb), In a Desperate Moment (The Kite String Tangle), re:member (Olafur Arnolds), Boy Afraid (Saro).

0900 Time for some breakfast. I would have held off a bit longer but most of the other passengers are starting to eat and the aroma is too tempting. I don’t want too much and settle for apple and ginger juice followed by scrambled eggs and crushed avocado. The food on this flight has been outstanding; the best airline food I’ve had.

I look at the flight tracker and get another little buzz.

The flight has onboard WiFi so I get the complimentary 30 min. The connection is quite good and I get my updates and email. The bank has put a hold on one of my credit cards due to a transaction. Luckily its not one of the cards I’m travelling with and it’s a legitimate transaction. I will sort it out when I get to Doha.

0950 After brushing my teeth and freshening up, I sit back to listen to more of my new music. I feel VERY relaxed.

1114 The lights come on and we commence our descent. The flight attendant who took care of me for most of the flight was so delightful. She was just very friendly without being intrusive.

0420 (DOHA TIME) We land in Doha and it’s still dark. The airport is huge and nicer than I remember. I SO want to take some photos but dare not here. Doesn’t feel right. It’s 24 degrees but it must be humid because I’m sweating already. I wander around the duty free. On the plane I saw an ad for noise cancelling ear plugs. Sounds like a great idea but I don’t find any.

There’s a really mesmerising massive digital artwork on one of the walls. People walking towards and then away from the viewer and disappearing into the desert haze.

0450 I make my way to the business lounge.

0509 I call the bank to sort out my credit card. They don’t have a record of my UK trip either. Might be my mistake but I’m glad I fixed it in case they do the same to any of the cards I DO need.

0550 I’m feeling hungry again. I guess breakfast was a few hours ago. There is a dining area but I don’t want a full blown meal. I wander around and discover there are stations with various treats around the lounge. I find some savoury treats followed by mini pastries and a coffee. That’s enough to fill the gap.

0644 The lounge was almost deserted when I arrived. Now it’s light, there are people everywhere.

0745 Time to go to the departure gate.

0818 Flight QR7, B777-300ER, Seat 1K. I’m on board. This plane is fitted with Q-Suites. Every seat is essentially a mini-suite, with door. Fancy! So much room and storage. Because of the configuration, I‘m sitting backward. It feels a little odd. We‘re delayed on the tarmac due to air traffic.

0910 Departed. The developments we pass over on the way out are spectacular. So much luxury construction.

I‘m feeling a little tired but still quite fresh.

0930 I watch a movie; “The Shape of Water”. The main meal on this flight is breakfast. What the heck; I order carrot juice, Greek yoghurt with granola and scrambled eggs with chicken skewer.

1030 Flying over some very dramatic and barren landscape. We fly over a circular city; I think it is Erbil. It looks unusually shaped in its context.

1130 We‘re crossing over the border into Turkey.

1140 I try to get some more sleep.

1300 I wake up! I managed to get to sleep quite easily and slept very solidly. I could probably sleep longer but feel refreshed enough and want to keep retraining my body clock. I ask for a coffee. It comes with some delicious stem ginger cookies.

1310 We‘re flying over Bucharest. There is quite thick cloud with occasional clear patches.

1330 I take advantage of the quiet in the cabin to go freshen up and change my t-shirt; avoid the landing rush.

1350 All the flight it‘s been really smooth. Now, over Hungary, it suddenly gets really bumpy.

1415 The cloud briefly clears over the Czech Republic.

1437 It’s clearer over Germany. We fly over Coburg.

1510 I get excited as I catch my first glimpse of the English Channel.

1540 We’re tracking the Thames inland. From my calculation, London will be on the left side of the plane but I’m sitting on the right. Then we change direction and before I know it we’re flying slowly right over the centre of the city. The plane banks at just the right time to see everything. It’s a clear day and the view is amazing!

1250 (UK TIME) We’ve landed. I’ve been to London many times and this one of the first it hasn’t been drizzling on arrival.

1315 I make my way to border control. The UK passport queue is empty and I go through the electronic gates just like a local. Cool. Of course, my fellow business class passengers get to luggage at the same time thanks to their fast track passes, but it’s the principle!

1330 I need to catch the train to terminal 2 so I can catch the Heathrow Express. The next one is 18 min away.

1404 I’m on the Heathrow Express. Next stop London.

1416 I arrive at Paddington station and need to catch the tube to get to Euston. First the Bakerloo line (southbound) to Oxford Circus, then the Victoria line (northbound) to Euston. I had been nervous that it might be tricky changing trains with all my luggage but it all goes pretty smoothly with only a couple of stairs.

I instantly recognise all the sights and sounds of the underground and the trains. Aside from the “city” smells, there’s a distinct smell to the trains here.

1440 I get to Euston in plenty of time for my train to Manchester. There’s a lounge where I can get a drink and snack while I wait.

1600 We depart for Manchester. Nearly there now and I can fully relax. You’ve done well Ian.

1815 The train arrives in Manchester. I was starting to vague out by the end of the trip. The hotel is within sight of the train station so I walk. There are lots of people out. It’s dark but still early. Tonight is just a bed to recover before continuing to my final destination tomorrow morning. I think I’ll head to bed super early, after a lovely shower.

England 2018Ian Barber3 November 2018London, Flights, Trains, Manchester, Doha, Qatar Comments

01.11 Adelaide to Doha

1530 (ADELAIDE TIME) I leave work. It’s been a productive day and went quite quickly. Much quicker than the last few. It has felt like this trip would never get here. It’s been a warm day, and I’m so glad to be heading to cooler weather.

1600 There’s no rush to get to the airport so I relax at home for a little while. I finish packing and tidy up the house, turning off the power etc.

1830 Time to get to the airport. The taxi is here and it’s clean drive there.

1900 Check-in goes quickly and the queue for screening is short. My check-in luggage is only 19 kg. Seems much more. I go to the Qantas lounge to wait for my flight. Time to indulge in a quick snack of spicy pasta and a holiday champagne.

2050 Time to go through customs. It’s very fast too.

2115 Flight QR915, A350-900, Seat 2K. I’ve boarded. I feel very calm and relaxed already. But curiously, I only feel mildly excited. I think it hasn’t sunk in that I’m finally on holidays. Then a glimpse of the flight tracker gives me a quick buzz and I know it’s real.

It will be a 14 hr flight tonight. My plan is to try to get some quality sleep. I decide to avoid alcohol and I’ve brought valerian tablets that should help settle me.

I start by watching a movie. “Goodbye Christopher Robin” looks like a good place to start. The flight is a little bumpy for the first half hour out of Adelaide.

2245 They start preparing for dinner. I choose the creamy pumpkin soup, Arabic chicken kofta, warm orange semolina pudding. As they set my table they place a small electronic tea light; it sounds tacky but was actually lovely. The meal is delicious, especially the soup.

2351 I’m trying to delay sleep to align with my destination, so I watch another movie. This time “The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society”. It had been given an R rating but I have no idea why.

England 2018Ian Barber3 November 2018Flights, Doha, Qatar Comments

England 2018

My next travelling adventure will be a trip back to England. I have some walking planned, in new places and places I love. And hopefully, I will be taking many, many photos.

England 2018Ian Barber2 September 2018Plans, MapsComment

Father's Day 2018

Emily and I spent a lovely Father's Day together today. First up was a photo stroll through the cool Mt Lofty Botanic Gardens. Then a massive but delicious lunch at Seasonal in Hahndorf.

ExcursionsIan Barber2 September 2018Flowers, Nature, Gardens, Photo Days, SA, Australia, Mt LoftyComment

Blood Moon

Last night, I went to Emily and Ash's for an astronomical double bill: Mars in the evening and a blood morning in the (very) early morning. We had a lovely evening with some lovely people, though the telescope and camera weren't doing the event all that much justice. I headed to bed early in the cosy vardo. Around 5:00 am next morning we were up to view the blood moon. Again, the camera didn't capture all the magic. But that doesn't matter - it was a wonderful experience and such a beautiful start to the day.

ExcursionsIan Barber28 July 2018Moon, Australia, SA, Night Comment

Full Moon

A couple of months back we had a particularly clear night with a full moon. I managed to get this shot with my camera and tripod.

ExcursionsIan Barber17 June 2018Moon, Australia, SA, AdelaideComment

Vivid Sydney Day 4

The final day in Sydney was just for wandering around. The weather started off wet but cleared to a beautiful blue sky by early afternoon. I spent some time walking around and under the bridge.

EventsIan Barber12 June 2018Vivid Sydney, Australia, NSW, Sydney Comment