Bunt Landshut

Today‘s weather is forecast to be overcast again. I decide to head northeast to Landshut which is a town mentioned in my guidebook due to it’s colourfully painted buildings. At 1026 I catch the S6 to the Hauptbahnhof. There I buy another Bayern-ticket for the day. The train I had planned to catch is waiting, but it‘s for a different company and goes to Prague. I‘m not sure if my ticket applies, and I can find anyone to ask. To be safe, I decide to wait for the next train. In the meantime I walk through the area around the station. I find the museum area with some galleries and a large monument.

At 1124 I‘m back at the station and on the train to Passau. It will take me to Landshut, calling only at Freising and Moosburg. We arrive at Landshut at 1212. From the large station and 20th Century buildings around it, I start to wonder if I‘ve been led astray by my guidebook. I walk in the direction of the towncentre and things are not looking very colourful at all.

Then, after 20 min walking I come across the Altstadt and lots of colour! There is a massively wide street lined with all manner of colourful and cute shaped buildings as well as a very imposing church. On the hill there‘s also a castle. The small streets off the Main Street are also beautiful, hiding little gems. Being New Year‘s Day, there aren‘t many people around which makes it perfect for photography. There is a light drizzle of rain, but not enough to cause me problems.

I wander up and down and around the streets for a couple of hours before making my way back to the station.

I catch the 1448 train back to Munich. So far on this trip there have been very few people on the trains; this train is full and finding a seat is more challenging than usual.

Munich 2018Ian Barber2 January 2019Trains, Towns, Landshut, Bavaria, Germany Comment

Frohes neues Jahr

I wasn’t sure what I would do NYE. One plan had been to pop across to London to see the fireworks. I bought a ticket for the viewing area just in case; it was only £10. Unfortunately, though they were in touch by email, the ticket didn’t turn up before I left Australia. That’s OK; it was only a soft plan and I knew there was a risk.

I researched NYE (Silvester) in Germany and became a little anxious from what I read. Seems that formal, organized fireworks are rare. Instead, this is the only time Germans are allowed to buy and set off fireworks and they can tend to go a little crazy. There have been injuries and even fatalities in recent years. There has been discussion this year in the german media.

Being a foreigner and alone I decide against getting in the thick of any NYE celebrations. Besides, I don’t feel the need to do anything in particular anyway. I’ve slept through the last 2-3 NYE and I am happy to do it again this year.

While looking through the photos from my day in Oberammergau I have the TV on. This year, my german language teacher had told us of the cult following around a vintage British sketch titled “Dinner for One” and we watched it in class with no understanding of why the Germans go crazy for it. In the couple of hours I have the TV on, the original English version has been played on 3 different channels as well as 2 newer german versions! Go figure.

From about 1830 the sporadic sound of fireworks begins outside. They are still going on when I go to bed around 2130.

At 2300, even with earplugs, I awake to a big round of fireworks. At first I figure it must be midnight but then realize we’re still not there yet. The bangs die down a bit and I go back to sleep.

At 2357 I’m woken again. This time I get up to look out the window. No carefully synchronized countdown here. They let their fireworks off when they feel like it. Then, around midnight, it erupts. Total uncoordinated chaos. But there’s something beautiful in it. I can hear lots of revellers in the area around the hotel. Facing inwards, I only see fireworks when they manage to breach the rooftops but I hear all the noise and see all the reflected flashes. They are going off all round me in all directions. Some are let off very near and the embers fall into the courtyard. This goes in for nearly 30 min before slowing down and I head back to bed.

In the morning, as I head out on my next expedition, I see the remnants of fireworks on the ground here and there.

Munich 2018Ian Barber2 January 2019NYE, Germany, MunichComment

Ich sehe Schnee!

Yesterday the weather was a bit dreary, so I had a planned rest day where I didn’t get out of my PJs and just worked on a jigsaw puzzle I had bought the day before.

Today is still a bit dreary but I feel I need to make an effort to do something. Many museums and galleries are closed, so I decide on a train trip. I check the weather and everywhere is showing drizzle, but at least Oberammergau has had some recent snow. Maybe some will still be there if I’m lucky.

After researching my travel options and buying a ticket online, I head to the train station. I’ve purchased a Bayern-Ticket which gives me unlimited regional train trips for a day for 37.50€. It’s good value.

I get on the 0830 S7 from Marienplatz to München Hauptbahnhof. It only takes 5 minutes. I was only able to buy a ticket online, not seat reservations. On the web it says I can reserve seats using the machines in the station but I can’t work out how to do it without buying another ticket. I ask at the information desk and they tell me there is no need to reserve seats. As I’m early, I buy a delicious Nussschneke from a kiosk in the station. It’s only a simple verbal exchange but I manage to do it without resorting to any english or “sign language”. It turns out to be the only success of the day, but that’s OK. It’s not a competition.

At 0932 I catch the regional RB 5415 to Murnau, calling at München Pasing, Tutzing, Weilheim, Huglfing and Uffing. When I get to Murnau, the next train is waiting. Up until now it has been drizzling, but now it‘s raining a little more heavily. There is lots of rain on the train windows which means no decent photos on the train. At 1042 train RB 59563 departs to Oberammergau, calling at Murnau Ort, Seeleiten-Berggeist, Grafenaschau, Bad Kohlgrub, Bad Kohlgrub Kurhaus, Saulgrub, Altenau and Untergammerau. Until Murnau the scenery was flat, but now the alpine scenery kicks in, followed by some mist in the forests, followed by … snow! I‘m very excited to see it. The scenery brings back big memories of the very special train ride through the Swiss alps that Emily and I did back in 2010.

We arrive in Oberammergau at 1127. It has been snowing but now it‘s just a light drizzle of rain. The roads and footpaths are turning to ice and slush. I need to be very careful how I walk.

The village is beautiful with many painted buildings. It would look amazing in summer and spring. But even now it has a charm and there are many people around. I wander and look in shops. They are mainly selling wooden souvenirs or beer steins. There is one Christmas shop which has an amazing array of decorations and displays; it‘s Christmas on steroids. On the edge of the village I can see a chairlift going up the side of the mountain and skiers coming down another, wider slope. Fathers and children are walking back into town, presumably from playing on the edges.

I try taking photos with my good camera, but it is challenging. The constant drizzle makes it hard to keep the camera and lens dry. I give up after a while.

I catch the 1329 train back to Murnau and then another back to Munich. By this time, I have wet and cold toes. Next time I will take my better walking boots.

Munich 2018Ian Barber1 January 2019Oberammergau, Germany, Mountains, Trains, Snow, Bavaria Comment

Ich finde einen zugefrorenen See

It’s a cold and grey afternoon. After tossing up a couple of options I settle on walking to the Englischer Garten, a large park in the north east of the city. I get there about 1330. There are lots of people walking around, despite the freezing weather. It’s a beautiful park, even with most of the trees without leaves. I can imagine what it must be like in summer.

I wander around the southern part which ends at a lake. And the lake is beginning to freeze over. There are large chunks of ice on the surface. It’s very surreal to see.

At 1500 I’m heading back and all the church bells in the city are ringing. They go on for quite some time.

Right on the edge of the park is a bridge and the water is rushing beneath at a crazy pace. I’m not sure if it’s intentional or not. Either way, the waves don’t go to waste and there’s a group of surfers having lots of fun and attracting quite and audience.

Munich 2018Ian Barber31 December 2018Munich, Englischer Garten, Parks Comment

Ausflug zu Olympischen Spielen

As I have a thing for towers, I decide to visit the tower at the site of the the 1972 Olympic Games. 1972 was the first time I remember being conscious of the olympics and I particularly remember the design of the stadium and roof. A visit to the Olympic park would allow me to explore the tower and the stadium at the same time.

I head out at 1100. I make my way to the Marienplatz u-Bahn station. I catch the U3 to Olympiazentrum. The train is very new and spacious. Some of the stations are also very modern. Others are more in keeping with the age of the line. It’s only a 20 min journey through Odeonsplatz, Universität, Giselastraße, Münchner Freiheit, Bonner Platz, Scheidplatz and Petuelring.

The park is only a short walk from the station and I head straight for the tower. There’s not much of a queue and I get to the top quickly. It’s a great view but the sun is low and casts a haze over the city. It’s hard to see anything but I can make out the silhouettes of the churches. I can also just make out the silhouette of the Alps. What I can see clearly are the buildings that were the Olympic village and also the massive BMW factory.

When I get back down from the tower the queue is much longer. They might be waiting for the restaurant?

There’s a lake by the tower and the stadium. The water in a small part of the lake is beginning to freeze and birds are standing on the ice. It’s such an odd thing to see.

I walk to the stadium. It’s amazing to see the roof up close. It still looks modern even though it’s over 40 years old.

After a walk all around the edge of the stadium I walk back to the station and catch the U3 at 1355. This is a much older train.

Munich 2018Ian Barber30 December 2018Towers, Munich, Olympiaturm, Olympiapark Comment

Münchner Sehenswürdigkeiten 1

On my first full day in Munich I wander around the old town (Altstadt). Most of the city centre is pedestrian only, so it’s easy to get around. By the middle of the day it‘s very busy. I can‘t tell how many are tourists like me and how many are locals.

Munich 2018Ian Barber29 December 2018Cityscapes, Munich Comments

Spaziergang durch den Viktualienmarkt

The hotel is on the edge of Viktualienmarkt. It‘s an open air market with a large selection of stalls. They are mainly food, but there are also a couple selling wreaths and Christmas decorations. I first walk through in the morning around 1000. A few stalls are open, but most are still closed up. Later in the day I walk through on my way back to the hotel and it’s bustling. Nearly every stall is open and people are everywhere. There is a beer garden and people are milling around. It‘s quite an atmosphere and still quite festive.

Munich 2018Ian Barber29 December 2018City Life, Munich Comment

Blick aus dem Neuen Rathaus

Neues Rathaus is the new Town Hall. It‘s an imposing building in Marienplatz. That‘s the main square used for the Christmas Markets and they have been clearing away the stalls in the last couple of days. There is a tower, so naturally I have to go up. This one has a lift, so it is very easy. The views are spectacular and you can make out the Alps in the distance.

Munich 2018Ian Barber29 December 2018Cityscapes, Towers, Munich Comment

Die lange Flugreise nach Deutschland

It’s a weird and new experience, being in an airport on Christmas Day. I didn’t know what to expect. It’s quiet. Very quiet. No queues for check-in. No queues for security. I get to the airport around 1840 and before long I’m in the Qantas lounge. Aside from a tree in reception and endless kitsch Christmas music, there’s not really any festive trimmings here. A couple of mince pies are the only gesture in the food area. Not that I’m disappointed, I’m not really hungry right now anyway and I intend to eat on the plane. I was just curious to see what it might be like.

We’re all boarded by 2110 and depart on time at 2150. I have dinner after take off: the delicious butternut almond soup, a festive special of turkey and vegetables, finished with a selection of ice creams. I watch a couple of movies: “Crazy Rich Asians” followed by “Christopher Robin” (a different film to the one I watched on my last trip). I only get through the start of “Christopher Robin” before needing sleep. By this time it’s 0115. I get my usual sleep; 3-4 hours of on-off sleep. It’s the best I’ve come to hope for but welcome all the same. I watch the rest of the film before settling down for a few more hours of on-off sleep. It’s bumpy at times but nothing too disturbing.

By 0800 I’m awake again and spend the next hour quietly lying and thinking. Then breakfast begins at 0930: apple and ginger juice, cereal and an amazing French toast with berries. After freshening up, I spend the last 2 hours of the flight listening to music and watching the flight path. As we approach Doha they open the blinds and I can see the lights of Dubai. Unfortunately, there‘s too much light in the cabin for good photos.

At 0405 (Qatar time) we arrive in Doha on time. There‘s no aero bridge; we board a bus to get to the terminal. I have three hours until my next flight so I sit and relax in the lounge. For the last hour I do some German revision in a book I bought in London. I‘m starting to feel a little tired.

The next flight departs on time at 0755. The plane has Qsuites, so it‘s very comfortable. There don‘t seem to be that many people on the flight. The pilot does his announcement in English and German. I try my best to pick out words. It‘s been hours since my last meal so I enjoy another breakfast: orange juice, Greek yoghurt and scrambled eggs with chicken skewer. I watch a documentary on an English country house (Longleat). Later I watch a German movie, “In the Aisles”, which gives me another opportunity to practise picking out words.

The first flight was nighttime all the way. This flight is daytime. Although my fellow passengers all appear to want to sleep to Munich, I‘m captivated by the views and we have clear sky much of the way. I decide against sleep and don‘t feel too guilty keeping one of my blinds up as the suite doors block much of the light. After a great view of Doha, we pass over oil platforms in the gulf, rugged terrain and snow capped mountains in Iran and Turkey, the Black Sea and cross over into Romania. There are clouds but they clear as we spectacularly fly over part of the Austrian Alps. It‘s an amazing view that then changes to very flat fields on the final approach to Munich.

We land a little early at 1154 (Germany time). The temperature is -1 degree. I make my way to Passport Control. The airport is quite empty but there is already a line up at Passport Control and only a few booths. I make my decision to use my British passport as the EU line seems a bit shorter and seems to be moving marginally faster. But still it is a very slow process. Each person or group takes a couple of minutes to get through. There are questions and some need to provide an electronic finger print. It’s half an hour before I get to the front. I hand over my passport, he checks where I flew in from and I’m through in less than 30 seconds!

From the airport I make my way to the terminal train station and catch the next S8 line to Marienplatz. I get there at about 1345. Google Maps tells me it’s only 350m to the hotel, so I walk. I get a little lost but finally make it there and check in at 1400. I take a nice warm shower to wash all the travel off. It’s still cold outside and I venture out. There are lots of people about but everything is closed due to a public holiday. I forget my beanie and soon feel head freeze. I head back to settle in for the night. I will explore properly tomorrow.

Munich 2018Ian Barber28 December 2018Alps, Doha, Flights Comment

Herr Barber reist nach München

It’s only been a few weeks since my last overseas holiday, but I’m off again in a couple of days. Why so soon? The original plan had been for a trip next April but changes at work mean that won’t be possible. To compensate, I decided to take advantage of the Christmas shutdown to get away.

This time I’m heading to Munich. And why there? My biggest priority is to get away from summer in Australia and find some cold; hopefully with snow. I decided Europe would be a better bet than the UK. And if I head to Europe I should go to Germany to practise the German I’ve been learning this year.

Finally, this year has brought death and illness closer around me. It’s been a timely reminder to not waste the time we have.

So I’m heading to Bavaria. Munich will be my base but I hope to venture into Austria as well.

As a challenge, I’ll try to give each post a German title based on my current language skill level. (Of course that does mean all the titles will have to be in present tense! LOL).

Unlike my last blog, I doubt if this will be a day-by-day, blow-by-blow record. Mainly because I hope that many days there will be nothing worth writing about because I’ve been chilling out and laying low. Next year will be a big one and this is my chance to completely unwind and recharge.

Munich 2018Ian Barber22 December 2018 Comment

23.11 Homeward Bound + Reflections

0430 (LONDON TIME) It‘s been a slightly disturbed sleep but that‘s usual when I need to head off early. I probably don’t need to be up this early but I like to give myself plenty of contingency when travelling. Also, it‘s part of my Timezone adjustment plan. I figure it should make sleeping on the plane a little easier when it‘s time to do so.

0500 I check the status of the Heathrow Express. Last night there were delays due to a signal fault. But this morning, everything is OK. I was thinking of walking to Waterloo and then catching the Bakerloo line to Paddington. But I have a suspicion that there will be stairs and that will be awkward with all my bags. I decide on a taxi instead.

0555 The taxi arrives. As we make our way to Paddington station we cross over the Waterloo Bridge. It‘s still dark and London is shrouded in mist again.

0610 We arrive at Paddington. The fare is £18.

0618 I’m on the Heathrow Express.

0625 We depart for the airport.

0640 The train arrives at Heathrow Terminal 2.

0648 I catch the shuttle train to Heathrow Terminal 4.

0650 We’re at Heathrow Terminal 4 and I make my way to departures. There’s no-one in the queue, so check-in is quick. My blue suitcase is now 24kg. I check in my other bag too. Not sure how heavy it is.

0715 I go through the fast track security. Curiously, I don’t need to go through UK customs and there’s no need to show my British passport again. That’s not what I was expecting. My flight has my AUS passport as that’s the one they requested when I originally checked-in in Adelaide.

I wander through duty free. The urge to purchase is strong. But I really don’t need anything. I resist.

0730 I get to the lounge. It’s very grey outside. It will be a couple of hours before I eat on the plane so I sit down and order eggs benedict.

0812 We’ve boarded.

0859 We pull away.

0920 Flight QR1, LHR-DOH, A380-800, Seat 14A. The A380 always feels so cumbersome as it starts to taxi. You wonder how it’s ever going to take off. There is thick cloud as we depart.

1030 Breakfast #2. I go for a light option; fresh fruit followed by oats and blueberries and a cardamon chai.

1100 It’s quite clear over Germany at first, then it gets cloudy.

1140 Mountains are poking through the cloud cover as we fly over Austria.

I decide against sleep on this flight. It’s still so light and I’m not tired. I review the text from my blog that I will use in my travel book.

1240 I saw some things in the on board duty free magazine on the way over that I’m interested in. One is a set of noise cancelling ear plugs. The other is a plug adaptor with USB ports all in one that has just the right combination of features. I haven’t seen either quite as good anywhere else. I decide to purchase them but the flight attendant tells me they no longer take MasterCard. What? I’m disappointed and try to think what I may be able to do for the next leg. Later the attendant returns. She has double checked and they DO still take MasterCard afterall. Yay!

1330 I have a light snack of gnocchi in spinach and blue cheese sauce. Delicious!

I don’t feel like any alcohol and that should help my sleep on the next flight.

1350 I connect to the WiFi to check my emails - because I can.

I don’t watch anything on this flight. I just have the flight tracker on. As with my last UK trip, this leg back home seems to go really quickly.

1425 I glance outside and there’s a perfect and bright moon hovering just above the clouds. I try to get a photo but the windows on the A380 are deep and distort the photo.

1823 (DOHA TIME) We land in Doha. I only have just over an hour until my next flight. I head into the lounge and have a piece of cake while charging my new ear plugs. The lounge is very quiet.

2000 We’ve boarded the final flight. I really notice all the Australian accents.

2046 Flight QR914, DOH-ADL, A350-900, Seat 2K.

I have some dinner to start with. Tomato soup, chicken pate quinelle and malai kofta. All very nice.

I watch “Life of the Party”. Nothing too demanding and it’s a bit of a chuckle. Just right for winding down.

2110 It’s a little bumpy as we leave Doha but settles down.

2306 I try to settle down for sleep after donning my flight PJs.

0430 I’ve given sleep a good go. I’ve managed to grab a good 4-5 hours of interrupted sleep. That’s good for me. It’s been a little bumpy at times but mainly OK. The time in Adelaide now is midday so I think I should start rousing. I watch the rear camera feed from the plane. We’re gently floating over a clear Indian Ocean.

0530 Time to freshen up.

There are very few movies available that I want to watch. I settle on “Ocean’s 8”. It’s good.

0620 Breakfast. I have greek yoghurt with fruit compote followed by cheese omelette.

I realise that I’ve been clenching my jaw for most of the flight. It’s sore.

I watch the flight camera as we approach Adelaide.

1638 (ADELAIDE TIME) We land a little early.

I have declared my walking boots as I did lots of walking through fields. They give them a quick clean and return them.

1820 I’m sitting at home with some comfort TV on. Now the transition from traveller Ian back to homebody Ian begins again. Home feels strange and unfamiliar. It feels like a long time since I’ve been here.

As usual, I like to reflect at the end of an adventure. Here’s some of what I think this time (in no particular order):

I didn’t experience any jet lag at all on the way over. That’s unusual. Maybe it was because I was able to sleep quiet well on the plane?
I packed a lot, but I used most of it this time.
I’m feeling a little over carrying all my luggage on trains. I should think twice about doing that so much next time.
My iPhone is sometimes a better choice for taking photos, depending on the situation. It’s OK to swap between the two.
It’s generally better to under expose a photo than over expose, particularly for getting rich colours. I found myself being guided less by the light meter and more by judgement.
Don’t be afraid of using high ISO on the camera. It can be very useful when used sparingly.
Even just 3 weeks away feels like a decent amount of time.
At the end of every holiday I resolve to live life more fully when I get home. I think it’s the space that allows me to appreciate the potential of life more fully. Then work tends to consume me and I forget.
I came up with some really good workflows for managing my photos and updating my blog. I was worried about storage, but all the photos (3,500+) and edits used up just under half of the iPad storage.

My final photo tally is just over 3,500. Here’s the day by day breakdown.

England 2018Ian Barber25 November 2018Flights Comment

22.11 Parks and Squirrels

0545 It was another really great sleep. I’m glad I’ve gotten over the waking up. Outside there’s light cloud and it’s crisp.

0653 Breakfast.

It’s my last day in England. As usual, it feels weird with so many emotions.

On one hand: I feel satisfied. I’ve had a brilliant holiday. But I miss Em. I miss my yoga classes. I’m a little over living in hotels. The holiday has been a real thought incubator and I’m keen to work through some future plan ideas. And I have another overseas holiday coming up in just 33 days. I’m ready to go home.

On the other hand: I love this place. I wish I didn’t have to leave. I don’t really want to leave. And I don’t want to go home to summer.

0830 I head out with my camera. The cloud cover is thicker and it’s misty. There’s a new building in London I had hoped to photograph but it’s so misty that my idea is not going to work. Instead I slowly make my way to St James’ Park. It’s cold. Although I’ve been out in lower temperatures, for some reason it’s getting to me today. I rug up with hat and scarf. I’d wear my gloves if I’d brought them with me!

St James’ Park is beautiful. Yet another painting in autumn colours. And very quickly I notice the squirrels. They’re everywhere and they’re super active. I spend some time on the hunt for good photos. A couple stare me down and I have to back off.

1030 I continue on to Hyde Park. Also beautiful, but more open. I move on to Kensington Gardens before looping back again.

1230 I stop for fish and chips at the Serpentine Bar & Kitchen in Hyde Park. Just right.

I’m still feeling quite emotional when I think about my pending departure. I try to soak up every last sense of being there.

1300 What now? I’ve done enough and would be happy to relax back in the warm hotel. But part of me sees that as a waste. But the reality is I feel I’m done for now.

1310 I slowly head back. It feels even colder now. I savour it.

1330 I catch the Jubilee line from Green Park to Waterloo.

1340 I arrive at Waterloo for the last time.

Today I carried my tripod with me but I didn’t need to use it. I haven’t taken it with me many times because I couldn’t find a convenient way of carrying it. If I just clip it to my bag it swings around. If I just carry it over my shoulder it keeps feeling like it will drop off. Finally today I realise that if I clip it to my bag AND carry it over my shoulder it‘s just right. A bit late maybe. I‘ll keep it in mind for my next trip.

1400 I‘m back in the hotel. I need to re-pack now to check that everything is going to fit. If not, I‘ll still have time to head out and get another bag.

1450 I‘ve re-packed and everything seems to fit OK. I spend some time looking at my photos from the day.

1550 I‘m relaxing in front of the TV. I head off very early in the morning, so it will be an early night to bed tonight.

England 2018Ian Barber23 November 2018UK, Squirrels, London, Autumn, Kensington Gardens, St James‘ Park, Hyde Park Comments

21.11 Art and Religion

0530 I’ve had another really good sleep. The rain has eased. It’s very cold outside though.

0630 Breakfast. The scrambled eggs are particularly creamy and delicious this morning.

My first destination doesn’t open until 1000 so I relax in the hotel, watching morning TV on the BBC and sorting through photos.

0930 I head towards Tate Modern along Blackfriars Road. When I glance down streets to my right I see glimpses of the Shard. On my left I see glimpses of the London Eye. I love that.

I’m feeling quite relaxed again. I think it’s because I’ve needed to slow down.

1000 I get to Tate Modern at opening time. I spend a few hours wandering around. There are a few highlights:

Christian Marclay: The Clock. “A mesmerising 24-hour film masterpiece of contemporary art. Thousands of film and television images of clocks edited together to show the actual time in a thrilling journey through cinematic history.” The description doesn’t really explain the film. It’s not just images of clocks but the scenes in which the clocks feature are masterfully sewn together to create a montage that feels surprisingly coherent. It certainly is mesmerising. I only stay for an hour, but could easily stay much longer.

Magic Realism: Art in Weimar Germany 1919-33. Here I see a still life oil painting called Flower Still Life with Playing Card (Blumenstilleben mit Spielkarte) by Josef Mangold. There is something about the preciseness of it that I really like.

A View From Zagreb: Op and Kinetic Art. This is a room of artworks based on optical effects, geometry and movement.

1130 I stop for a pastry and coffee.

I notice a man with “Heute Nicht” in big letters printed on his coat. “Not Today”, I get a little buzz that I can translate it.

1240 I leave after spending some time in the Tate shop. There’s lots of blue sky now. As a contrast, second on my list for the day is entry into St Paul’s Cathedral. Despite all my visits to London, I have never been in there. Today visitor hours begin at 1300. On my way there I pass through the small garden where I distinctly remember sitting with Emily on our visit in 2010. It brings back lovely memories.

1300 After waiting 10 min I make my way in. Crikey! It’s more spectacular inside than I had expected. Unfortunately, I’m not allowed to take photos. The amount of gold adornment is impressive, if almost obscene. I wander slowly around and walk up to the whispering gallery. I briefly step outside with a great view of the city skyline. There’s also a digital artwork: Martyrs (Earth, Air, Fire, Water) by Bill Viola that I find quite disturbing.

1400 I make my way to Covent Garden. I wander the Apple Market which consists of handmade artisan items. There are some really nice things and I have to seriously question whether or not to make a purchase. I choose not to.

1445 I had a sandwich at St Paul’s but I’m still feeling peckish. I pass the “Pie Shop” and pop in for a steak and stout pie with mash.

I’m on the lookout for some desert and I notice a stall selling mulled wine and sweet treats. I settle on mulled wine with a mince pie. Very festive.

1530 I walk back to the hotel.

England 2018Ian Barber22 November 2018UK, London, St Paul’s Cathedral, Tate Modern Comments

20.11 I’m Shopping in the Rain

0520 I slept much better last night.

0630 Breakfast time.

0730 I spend some time copying my blogs back to OneNote so I can start editing the text for the book of this trip.

The trouble with being an early bird is having to wait for the rest of the world to get up. I fluff around until I think the shops will be open. Today is going to be a browsing and shopping day. No backpack, no big camera and (almost) no itinerary.

0850 I head out walking towards Covent Garden. Walking across Waterloo Bridge the wind is bitterly cold and it’s spotting rain. I had thought of bringing my umbrella but it would have been no help anyway.

0915 I get to Covent Garden but most things are still setting up. I look in a bookstore for a while then decide to head to the other end of my general plan with the intention of working back instead. I notice that all the Christmas lights are still on, even during the day. Admittedly, today is so dull, you almost need them!

1001 I catch the Piccadilly line from Covent Garden to Gloucester Road.

1012 I arrive Gloucester Road. I’m here to visit the European Bookshop. I’m on the hunt for German language books that might be helpful. I find a couple to buy.

1100 I stop for a pastry and coffee. Yum!

1115 I catch the Piccadilly line from Gloucester Road back to Knightsbridge. It’s still drizzling.

1123 I pop into Harrods for a while. I’ve been there before but thought it might be nice to browse. There’s lots to see but the store is way too confusing to navigate around for my liking.

1209 From the Knightsbridge station I catch the Piccadilly line to Green Park.

1216 From Green Park I catch the Victoria line to Oxford Circus. I’m heading to Oxford street.

1219 I arrive Oxford Circus and make my way up to Oxford Street.

I wander in a few of the bigger stores. Selfridges has the most spectacular interior Christmas lighting with massive moving mirror balls. Even John Lewis has an impressive display of lights in the escalator area that’s reminiscent of falling snow. I buy a couple of things.

1420 It’s raining more heavily now. I find a nearby Pret-a-Manger (very easy to do in London) and settle for a “Christmas lunch” sandwich with turkey, stuffing and other goodies. I grab a Bakewell slice too; it’s SO good - better than the slice I had in Bakewell!

I head back to find a store that stocks something I want to get for mum. The rain is persistent now but my coat gives me enough protection.

I head back to Piccadilly Circus station. Should I return to Covent Garden or head back to the hotel? The tube will take me direct to Waterloo station and I’m a little over the rain, so that’s my choice.

1530 I catch the Bakerloo line from Piccadilly Circus.

1540 I arrive Waterlook station and make my way back to the hotel. Luckily there’s a break in the rain.

1550 Back in the warm, dry hotel.

1600 Time to head down to the lounge for a cocktail (vodka martini) while I work on my blog.

1830 Another nice and quiet evening. I had thoughts of heading out to do some night time photography using the water on the ground for reflections, but it’s nice and warm inside and I can’t muster the enthusiasm.

England 2018Ian Barber21 November 2018City Lights, UK, London Comments

19.11 Hampstead Heath and The Regent’s Park

0100 I’ve been waking on the hour. This time I glance outside and notice the moon hovering over the skyline. “That would make a great pic”, I think. But I shouldn’t bother now. I need to sleep. Oh, why not. I get my tripod out and have a go. It doesn’t capture the feel but at least I tried. I read a bit, then try to get back to sleep.

0500 I awake as usual. Despite a poor night I will do my usual routine. I’d like to get to breakfast early so I can check it out when it’s quiet. Tomorrow I might try to sleep in if I haven’t slept so well again. I look out the window; London is already getting busy again.

0630 I go down to breakfast. It’s the most diverse and extensive buffet I’ve seen.

H10 is a Spanish hotel chain and seems to cater for Spanish speaking travellers. I noticed lots of Spanish speakers out last night, so I assume it’s a big market.

In the last few days I’ve felt a little travel fatigued (#firstworldproblems) but being in London and also reflecting on this holiday has reinvigorated me.

0700 It’s cloudy as the sun rises. I work on my blog from yesterday.

0800 Time to do some planning and look up timetables.

I’ve just realised that if I look out to the far right of my window I can see the London Eye.

0910 I head out. The weather today is forecast to be partly clear with rain periods. I decide to do outside things while I can. I think the rain will get heavier as the week progresses. My plan is to head to Hampstead Heath first. I’ve been there before but would like to see it in Autumn. I’ll then make my way back through the key London parks.

0924 I catch the 168 bus to Hampstead Heath from Waterloo Road. I don’t think I’ve caught a London bus before, so I choose this over the tube.

1015 The bus gets to Hampstead Heath. I make my way to the park. No sooner do I get there that the wind whips up and showers start. I need to put my good camera away and use my iPhone at first. I walk around, visiting Parliament Hill, looking for photo opportunities and enjoying the surroundings. There are showers, sunny periods and icy wind blasts. Many people are walking in the park, most with dogs.

1200 Time to move on. I’ve made my way to Hampstead underground station. I catch the Northern line to Euston.

1210 The train gets to Euston. I find my way to The Regent’s Park. Again, there are showers and sunny periods. I wander around most of the Park. I don’t think I’ve been here before. It’s larger than I realised, with lots of sections, walks and gardens.

1400 I’ve walked a lot and I’m getting tired. Time for a rest. I stop at a café in the park. I have a piece of beetroot chocolate cake and a coffee. The cake is delicious!

1430 I had planned to visit a couple of other parks but I’m worn out. I make my way to Baker Street underground station and catch the Bakerloo line back to Waterloo.

1445 I get back to Waterloo station and walk back to the hotel.

1500 Back in the hotel, I change and sit in the bar/lounge downstairs as I go through my photos.

1530 A heavy but brief downpour.

1700 A quiet night as usual.

England 2018Ian Barber20 November 2018UK, Autumn, The Regent’s Park, Hampstead Heath, Walking, London Comments

18.11 Portsmouth to London (or dizzying heights to bright lights)

0530 I was in bed ultra early, exhausted from the walk. I’m feeling OK now, but ready for breakfast; I didn’t have dinner last night. Outside the sky is perfectly clear. Excellent for what I have planned this morning.

0630 There’s only one other strange person at breakfast this early on a Sunday morning.

0700 I work on yesterday’s blog.

0740 It looks so good outside. Undoubtedly, it’s cold, but after a few cloudy days the clear sky is so enticing. I decide to wander out to experience it and take some photos. It is bracing, but I love that. And it’s so tranquil to walk around the harbour at this time of the morning with no-one around. The sea is just ever so gently heaving from edge to edge.

0815 Time to start re-packing.

0840 Re-packing done. The suitcases are getting harder to pack and heavier to lift!

I notice some comments on my blog. Thank you everyone who has interacted with me. It’s somewhat of a “1st world problem”, but I do get a little lonely at times on the road and these comments and interactions are lovely and very much appreciated.

0915 Time to check-out. I wander to the harbour to wait until my booking for the Spinnaker Tower. I notice my waistline. I don’t think I’ve put on any weight yet. I haven’t gone overboard with food and I’ve definitely kept my activity levels up.

0930 It’s a beautiful clear crisp day. It’s lovely just to sit by the harbour and notice the city wake up.

1000 I have a booking to go up to the observation deck on the Spinnaker Tower. It’s a spectacular view and the weather couldn’t be more perfect for it. I can clearly see to The Isle of Wight and all around Portsmouth. There’s even a little “sky garden” one level up.

1040 I’m back on the ground. I don’t want to head to London too early because check-in isn’t until 1500 I’ve already done most of the maritime museum attractions which had originally been on my plan for today. There’s one thing left, to go across the harbour to see a submarine but I don’t really feel like it. I sit quietly by the harbour again for a while.

1100 On my way reluctantly back to the hotel, I notice a sign for harbour tours and the next one departs at 1115. Sounds like a great idea. I get a ticket and get onboard.

1115 The tour just takes us around the docks and includes a good commentary on the ships that are in harbour today.

1210 We get back to the quay and I go back to the hotel for my bags. I then make my way to the train station. There’s a London train waiting already.

1232 I’m on the South Western Railways service to London Waterloo. We depart calling at (deep breath) Fratton, Havant, Petersfield, Haslemere, Goldaming, Guildford, Woking, West Byfleet, Byfleet & New Haw, Addlestone, Chertsey, Virginia Water, Staines, Clapham Junction and London Waterloo. I have a first class ticket and it’s worth it to get a nice seat and a quiet carriage.

1340 It’s a long journey and luckily there’s a trolley service onboard. I get a sandwich for lunch.

1456 We arrive in London. Google tells me it should only be an 8 minute walk tot the hotel. I start walking down Waterloo Road and the buildings aren’t looking all that flash. I hope the hotel’s not too far out the way. But soon I get there and everything is fine. The hotel looks very new.

1515 I check-in.

1600 After freshening up I head out again. It’s still clear and my weather app tells me that won’t last this week. I decide tonight will be the best for finding Christmas lights in the city. I walk into the centre of London, heading towards Covent Garden. I stop along the way to grab something to eat so I don’t have to worry about it later.

1700 By the time I get to Covent Garden market the sun has gone down and it’s dark. The lights in the market are beautiful and there are people everywhere. I slowly follow the crowds along streets, discovering little pockets of lights and massive displays in the streets leading into Piccadilly Circus. I’m not sure if everyone else was doing the same thing, but it certainly seems as if people were there for the lights. It feels so late but I keep reminding myself how early it still is.

On my way back I drop into “Christmas in Leicester Square”. It’s a mini-Christmas market. I’m glad I get to experience one of these. As expected, it’s nothing exceptional but it still has an air of Christmas magic about it. I get myself a mulled wine to wander around and take in the atmosphere. Back home I’m not a big fan of the hot Australian Christmas, but here I feel I could get into it. It feels more authentic, maybe even familiar from my early childhood?

1800 It’s still quite early but I’ve seen enough. I catch the tube from Charing Cross to Waterloo and then walk back to the hotel.

1830 I’m done for the day. I look through my photos. I’m not so happy with the Christmas light photos; they didn’t catch the magic. But I guess that will be difficult. I did take some video that gives a hint. I watch some TV before bed.s

I took a little bit of video. Make sure you watch it at the highest resolution.

England 2018Ian Barber19 November 2018Cityscapes, UK, London, Spinnaker Tower, City Lights, Portsmouth Comments

17.11 The New Forest

0200 I have slept really well until now. I’m having trouble getting back to sleep so I read for a bit and take another valerian tablet.

0530 Coffee time. I’m checking trains and discover industrial action planned for today. But I don’t think it will affect me.

I just remembered something from my visit to Stow-in-the-Wold that I didn’t mention. One of the gift stores I visited had the most amazing warm spicy smell of orange and cinnamon. It embraced you as soon as you entered. Very festive.

0630 Breakfast and it’s quiet again. Just how I like it.

0750 I leave for the train station. Today I want to visit part of The New Forest. Em had recommended this and I am keen to check it out. It’s a big area so I can only pick one part. I have decided to walk around a village called Brockenhurst.

0823 Great Western Railway service to Bristol Temple Meads, calling at Portsmouth & Southsea, Fratton, Cosham, Farnham and Southampton Central. There are lots of seats reserved on this train.

0907 I alight at Southampton Central. It’s chilly while I’m not moving and there is light cloud.

0926 The South Western Railway service to Bournemouth calling at Brockenhurst.

0943 I alight at Brockenhurst and immediately start the first of two walks I have chosen.

The first walk takes me through woodlands and forest as well as around a large open area with horses grazing. The amazing thing about The New Forest is that there are horses and deer roaming freely. The towns have gates and cattle grids to contain them and/or keep them out but other than that they are “wild”.

The trees are all golden in colour and the ground is a massive burnt gold carpet of fallen leaves. It’s a very monochromatic experience as you can see from the photos. At parts I am walking through woods totally alone. Towards the last quarter though, there are many of other people having a Saturday morning walk.

1150 I finish my first walk. 9 km. I’m a bit weary but I want to continue to my next walk. I stop for a drink and snack in the village first. The cloud is almost gone.

1200 I start the second walk. This begins in the town and then takes me through completely different landscape. Open fields with heather and more grazing horses. We do enter some woodland with streams.

1340 I finish my second walk. 8.6 km. My feet are killing me.

1343 I arrive back at the train station just as the right train arrives … I think. I get onboard anyway and cross my fingers.

1344 We depart and it’s the right train. Phew! Now to rest my legs.

1357 We arrive back at Southampton Central.

1405 Change trains and depart Southampton Central.

1450 I arrive back at Portsmouth Harbour.

1500 I get back to the hotel and have a long hot shower. Unfortunately, there’s no bath in this hotel and I think that’s going to hamper my recovery. I spend some time looking at photos and resting.

1600 It’s beautiful and clear outside and the sun is beginning to set. I decide to head outside to walk around. I get some nice pictures of the sunset. Although it’s cold, it feels very much like the seaside.

1630 I’m exhausted. Today’s walks have worn me out and my legs are really sore. I’m going to relax in bed with my legs up and doze off in front of the TV.

England 2018Ian Barber18 November 2018New Forest, Brockenhurst, Walking, UK, Forest, Nature Comments

16.11 Isle of Wight

0515 I wake up after a good sleep. The bed in this hotel is very comfy.

0600 I download walking maps for the day as well as purchasing a ticket for the Spinnaker Tower on Sunday.

0630 I head down to breakfast. I‘m the only person there at the start. There‘s a good selection in the buffet. On the TV there‘s lots of Brexit turmoil in the news.

0720 The sun is coming up. It’s overcast and misty.

0800 I head for the train station.

0815 I decide to catch the catamaran ferry to the Isle of Wight. The Solent looks quite still. I was hoping to stand outside but the weather is poor and the “sun deck” is closed. It’s so misty that there’s not much to see anyway. The crossing is very smooth. There aren’t many people on the ferry at this time of the day.

0835 The ferry arrives at Ryde on the Isle of Wight. I walk up to the High Street. Many of the shops as still closed. I hear the distinctive sound of seagulls in a seaside town. On the way back down the street I buy a Belgian bun from a bakery.

While waiting at the Ryde train station I see a notice warning of engineering works on the line to London on Sunday; the day I travel to London. I will need to see how that might affect me.

0951 The train departs to Shanklin calling at Ryde St John’s Road, Brading, Sandown, Lake and Shanklin. It’s an old train. I think it may actually be an ex-underground train. It rattles.

1010 We arrive at Shanklin. I walk around the town. In general, the towns on the island are bigger than I expected. But the overcast weather does cast a dready light. I’m sure they are more lively in Spring and Summer.

1054 I catch the number 2 bus to Godshill. I‘ve seen photos of thatched houses in this town and would like to check them out.

1107 The bus arrives in Godshill. I wander around the town. I think I’ve seen the best parts then I look at my map. I notice another part of town and wander up Church Hill. Here I see some more thatched houses around the church; gorgeous. I take a short stroll on a footpath out of town and see some of the countryside. I walk past massive fields of cabbages (I assume).

1206 I catch the number 2 bus back to Shanklin.

1220 We arrive in Shanklin. I’m going to catch the train back to Ryde.

1238 I’m on the train back to Ryde. I’m feeling quiet sleepy at the moment.

1300 We arrive at Ryde. I had hoped to catch the hovercraft back to Portsmouth. As a child, I remember seeing a hovercraft at Dover but I don’t think I’ve ever been on one. Unfortunately, when I get to the hovercraft “station” there’s a sign indicating that the service is temporarily suspended. That’s disappointing! I make my way to the catamaran ferry instead.

While waiting for the ferry back to Portsmouth I notice two large structures in the sea. At first I assume they are large ships. When they don’t move I realise that they are sea forts. Unfortunately, they are too far away and it’s too misty for me to get a good photo.

1347 We depart Ryde.

1405 We arrive in Portsmouth. I head to the hotel to freshen up and drop off my back pack. I’ll visit more of the maritime museums while I have the time and I want to travel light.

1430 I make it to the museums. It’s lightly spotting rain. I visit the Battle of Jutland display, the M.33 (a surviving ship from Gallipoli), the HMS Victory museum and the Naval Museum. I make my way to a shop and stop for a coffee and cake. Today, as with yesterday, I notice heavily armed police walking between the museums.

1551 I head back to the hotel again. The hotel is next to a massive outlet shopping centre. I decide to look around. I buy some light sweaters for my next trip to Bavaria at Christmas.

1655 I’m back in the hotel and working on my blog. I’m not sure if I’ll do anything for dinner; I’ve eaten plenty today. I’d prefer to sit in, read some of my acquisitions and head to bed early. I’d like to do some walking tomorrow.

England 2018Ian Barber17 November 2018Isle of Wight, Godshill, Portsmouth, Shanklin, UK, Museums, Ryde Comments

15.11 Moreton-in-Marsh to Portsmouth

0500 I wake up after a fitful night. The weather forecast all week has been for fog this morning. I’ve been hoping to get some interesting photos. But it’s clear this morning. Boo hoo!

0730 Breakfast.

0830 Time for the ritual repack. Today I’m moving on but I don’t have pre-booked tickets. That means I have more flexibility and less pressure. It’s nice. I dream of a time when I may be able to slow down the pace of travel to be more like this.

0852 Finished repacking. Only 22 minutes!

0910 Time to check-out.

0930 I get to the train station. It’s quite mild. Warm from walking, I’m just in t-shirt now. I buy my ticket but don’t properly read the train signage on the platform. I go over the overpass to platform 2 where the London trains would usually depart from. The station master calls out from across the tracks to confirm which train I want. She tells me it’s going to depart from platform 1. Back over the overpass! The sign on platform 1 still shows the 0929 train to Moreton-in-Marsh, so when a train arrives I take no notice. But the train sits at the platform for quite some time and the sign changes to my train. I check with the station master and this IS my train. That was all a bit confusing.

0950 Great Western Railway departs, calling at Kingham, Charlbury, Hanborough, Oxford and Reading. I bought a first class ticket but this train doesn’t have a first class carriage. The conductor says I can get a form to request a refund if none of the trains offer first class seating.

1105 We arrive at Reading.

1115 Great Western Railway departs. The weather is very overcast now. This train does have a first class section and it’s worth it.

1150 We arrive in Guildford.

1204 Great South Western departs, calling at Hazelmere, Petersfield, Havant, Fratton, Portsmouth and Southsea and Portsmouth Harbour. This train also has a first class section, so I’m happy with my ticket choice after all.

1305 We arrive at Portsmouth Harbour.

1318 I check-in. The WiFi doesn‘t appear to be working in my room or at reception. I speak with the staff. I pop to the nearby pret-a-manger for a hot chocolate and to use their WiFi for updates. But I can‘t connect to that either. Oops, maybe it’s my phone? I restart my phone and everything is OK again.

1400 I’d like to visit the Spinnaker Tower, but when I check online I realise I will have to book for another day. I decide to explore the Mary Rose museum instead. I make my way there. The Mary Rose was King Henry VIII’s ship that sank in 1545. What’s left of it has been recovered and is preserved in a museum. Admittedly, there’s not much left but it was fascinating all the same.

1450 I finish at the Mary Rose museum after buying my big book for the trip: Britain’s Tudor Maps County by County.

My plan had been to visit the other maritime museums on Sunday but I realise it will be really busy then and it’s very quiet now. I decide to get a ticket (it will be valid for a year) and I visit HMS Victory and HMS Warrior in relative peace.

HMS Victory was Nelson’s ship at the Battle of Trafalgar. I remember it vividly from my childhood because a friend made a really great model of it. It’s really special to walk through the real thing.

HMS Warrior was an iron-clad warship from 1860. I’m not so familiar with it, but explore anyway.

It’s late in the day and birds are congregating on the top of one of the masts. They get disturbed when a guide shakes a rope and fly off in a flurry.

1645 I get back to the hotel. The last hotel was lovely but every floorboard in my room creaked. It’s nice to not make noises as I walk in this hotel. I organise laundry for tomorrow. I’ve done really well with packing this trip; just a few things need washing.

1830 I shower and head out to find some dinner. The hotel is located in a shopping/dining precinct, so there will be plenty of choices. Being a week night, it’s relatively quiet out. I settle for The Old Customs House and have a delicious chicken and leek pie with mash and greens.

2030 I watch a little TV and then sleep time. I’ve really noticed the Christmas ads on the TV here. All snow and tinsel; it just feels so much more authentic than Christmas in Australia.

England 2018Ian Barber16 November 2018Portsmouth, Museums, Ships, HMS Warrior, HMS Victory, UK, Mary Rose Comments

14.11 Cotswolds Walk 3

0600 I manage to stay semi-dozing until 0600. It was another night of weird and, at times, disturbing dreams.

0730 I head down to breakfast. I think there is a business group staying here. They’re at breakfast. Sounds like they had a big night. A few sore heads I think.

0830 I step out to buy water for today’s walk. There’s an icy wind blowing.

0925 I catch the 801 bus to Stow-on-the-Wold.

0935 We arrive at Stow-on-the-Wold. I have a brief look around before commencing my walk.

By the way, the walking app I am using is ViewRanger. I believe there are a few different alternatives. I’ve found this one to be very good and in the UK there are quite a few walks to download. It’s definitely helped keep me on track.

1023 I make it to Broadwell. The walk also takes me through Donnington, Upper Swell and Lower Swell. Generally, the landscape is fields and pathways. There is a little incline at times, but nothing too difficult. The wind is biting at times with cloud cover for most of the walk.

1230 I get to the end of the walk. 12 km. My right foot is really sore. My little toe has been rubbing. I’m hobbling a little bit.

1300 I grab a sandwich and find a bench to relax.

1315 I have just over an hour until the next bus back to Moreton-in-Marsh. The shops here look more interesting than those in Moreton-in-Marsh, so I will have a browse. No purchases other than some really nice fudge. Two flavours: Christmas Pudding and Whisky & Ginger.

1410 I’m waiting at the bus stop and the wind is bitter made worse by me still being a little damp from sweat from my walk. I look across the market square and notice a building with a second storey and window that’s decidedly wonky.

1425 Bus 801 back to Moreton-in-Marsh.

1435 I’m back at the hotel. I jump into a nice hot bath. This walk wasn’t as messy as the others and I don’t have any gear to clean.

1500 I head down to the bar/lounge to look through my photos and work on my blog.

1830 I decide to dine in the restaurant. Gin cured salmon followed by stuffed field mushrooms with gruyere gratin. The food here has been excellent.

1930 Some TV and an early night.

England 2018Ian Barber15 November 2018Donnington, Upper Swell, Cotswolds, Lower Swell, Walking, Stow-on-the-Wold Comments